Kinkstaah

So the drive cycle is similar to the IM240 (just a different drive cycle) That drive cycle would have no effect from stock ECU in regards to that level of stress (i.e, none). The question is what do they compare it to/what targets do they have to hit? If they have to hit the targets for a 1998 vehicle then yeah you should be fine and having an aftermarket ECU (or a R32 GTR ecu for a RB26, it's the same engine after all) shouldn't be any major issue here at all. I mean if you were really worried, you could just get 2 stock ECU's and unplug one before the test. It would take about 4 minutes total, but I doubt heavily it'd be an issue. If the FTP75 is what is being tested against, I found this: "The FTP-75 cycle is known in Australia as the ADR 37 (Australian Design Rules) cycle and in Brazil as test standard NBR6601." This is this: The ADR37/01 (for cars after 97), is what I passed easily with my cammed LS. The only risk involved was literal unburned fuel due to the overlap on the cam. A stock cam would have passed this easily. I can't fathom a Nistune/base tune being so far out not to pass this, that said - So will a stock ECU. Especially given the Nistune can be programmed with a factory map, this really shouldn't be an issue. Worth testing and seeing if it even gets picked up.

Also having actually passed the IM240 test, a Nistuned otherwise OEM car is not going to fail. You would be lucky to actually see boost, and I would wager a 900kw GTR is also not going to fail the IM240. I passed it with a pretty large cammed LS in my Skyline ? If they use the 5 gas system, you'll pass that even easier.

To be fair, Aussies are really good at making these things make way more power and pass far more stringent "I'll look and see if thats stock" than the USA has to deal with. The real answer here is Are you affecting Airflow? If so, you need to adjust fuel to suit. In the real world you're not affecting airflow 'much', but with a R33 GTR, the wick can be turned up quite a lot on stock equipment, and a 270awkw GTR is a very different thing to a ... whatever they actually make on a dyno truly stock and untuned. Making the most of the base equipment on a GTR is well worth a tunable ECU imo.

^---- that. However I chose cable driven in my LS. Why? Cause early DBW kinda suck, and by kinda suck I mean they are slow to respond, programmed not the way you want, etc. If you get one that responds as fast as your foot does, then there's a lot of possibilities as explained above, other than pedal feel I GUESS.

I appreciate the feedback. It is always interesting hearing reviews across the pond, and a lot of them say the 'driving experience' in a Skyline is objectively really good. Even though we're pretty jaded here, we all do kinda agree to that extent. The sky can be the limit with a Skyline, but I've noticed with my own LS6 Skyline... going to put on tyres that would fit a Vette, with very similar weight.. and same drag co-efficient (apparently!) that I'm like .....hmmm.... what am I building here... ... so why didn't you get a Sedan then? ? It is interesting to see how the vehicle dynamics compare really, not many people have both. You can of course boost up a R33 to the point where it will also run 10's and rip your face off, well.. once you hit about 4000rpm. But that's its own fun too.

I have combined these two cars (and a commodore) I have to ask - Why did you want a Skyline when you have a Z06 - Even a turbo Z06? Given the R33 won't shape up to this thing effectively ever, what was the appeal behind it? Just cause forbidden fruit for so long? What makes you decide to go driving in the 33 when you enter your shed etc? Does it do anything different/better/more satisfying?

The number of thousands to do any project like this are in the realm of 10,000's, not 1,000's.. Sadly a V35 engine swap (what do you plan to do with the auto gearbox?) is really less feasible than getting something more suited to the task.

Thank you! I did think about sealing up the old sensor and putting it back into service, but for $80 and something on a shelf on Autobarn I figured I'd replace the sensor too, as they are known to fail ..and may have failed initially in my case causing some/all of the issues initially. I thought in lieu of knowing exactly what to use to seal with at the time, surely an o-ring for a sump plug would do it. Right? Guess not.

So the aircon is fixed for $0. That was nice of them. I noticed however, the bellhousing looked a little oily. I decided to idle my car stationary for 30 minutes, just to be sure. Because it was night, I checked back the following day. Maybe 3rd time is the charm, and I found I could take my intake off and valley cover off in 30 mins, which is a big improvement from when I started... so yay? Suspected my whole "Lets block off the sensor with a sump plug" idea may not have been the best plan. These strips of oil are from the bottom of the intake, which has 2 "sponges" on the back which were utterly covered in oil. Knock sensor 1, seems fine. Knock sensor 2 though, that's some oil there. Off with the valley cover again, and found that when I refit it.. it required a bit more force to 'seat' whereas when I did this the first 2 times it didn't seem to seat so well, and had to be 'bolted down'. So for the sake of that, I was hopeful but decided to take a look at my sump plug over sensor solution. It appeared to me that oil was definitely getting past that O-Ring. Pictured above - The old sender. Because the car is a LS, I went to repco and got a replacement oil pressure sender from the lovely people at Tridon, because f**k me I wasn't going to put a potentially leaky one back in there! As pictured, it has some kind of sealant on the threads, and a crush washer. I noticed it took a fair bit more effort to screw in (it just felt 'tighter) and while I hoped I wasn't cross threading or stripping out the actual engine block, it eventually went in pretty snug. I then spent the next 30 minutes of my life doing this. It was extremely hot and loud with a bellhousing and headers about 5mm from my face. VID_20200726_131702.avi But after 30 minutes of very intense staring, everything was finally bone dry! So in the end, yeah use somekind of thread sealant on something that sees pressurized oil, (that isnt a sealing thread pitch from the factory...) and make sure your gaskets are seated correctly. All ready to not drive!

It's not that it's not effective, its that LSD specific oil (the competition stuff) has stuff for the clutches in it. The Viscous LSD has no clutches The Helical LSD has no clutches The Open diff has no clutches Generally stock diffs in skylines aren't very good anymore, (worn out) so people replace them with aftermarket plate style clutches. These need "LSD" diff oil.

...automanual? The Auto And Manual Turbo diffs are the same (well they have a VERY slightly different ratio). They use the same oil, though. At least standard, which is generally considered pretty shit, as people then update the diff to some other center. Use whatever oil that center wants ?

The reason I asked is cause I noticed you had a pretty serious sim setup, including DD wheel and if you go to that level you quickly realise how much driver mod is a thing, and then noticing where chassis are good and chassis that aren't good tend to shine. Even if it's a sim, but I know you know what I am talking about! I'm also hoping the R34 isn't just a shit platform, given the 86 and RX8 are generally considered to be excellent. Please provide re-assurances for various shit life choices, thanks

I often recommend supercharged/lightly turboed 86's around the 200kw mark for being a perfect little combo of track car/fun hill car/daily, at least to the point where one's skillz are the limiting factor which would be the case until you're a GT driver one would think. How do you feel it stacks up vs your 34?

God damnit, R33 GTST gear will fit a R34 GT. I know everyone except the OP knows this.

Still borrow the gf's one every chance I get. Still won't let me mod the motor though.

What sedan is your sedan? You wrote GT in the title. GT and GTT are NOT interchangeable. The Sedan or Coupe part is unimportant. The fronts WILL fit. The rears will NOT fit (different mounting). R33 GTST gear will fit a R34 GTT. R33 GTST gear will NOT fit a R34 GTT.

R34 Helical LSD ? Favourite would be the LS in the engine bay.

Same, and good tip, but in Vic. Exactly what i want/need/can't fit/can't ship right now.

if 500whp (373kw) is truly your goal, your fuel choice also matters which can affect the turbo you choose to run. As far as ECU's go, find one that your tuner will tune. No one does or trusts online tunes for cars like these. They're pushed too hard and are too individual (even with same list of mods) to get anywhere close to trusting a tune from another car. You'd need so much gear to convince yourself the tune is actually okay, to the point where you could just DIY the tune from that point.

So I went back again for more last week! In good news, I found a way to remove the intake with the fuel rails and injectors still attached, so no need to sort that out again. This was a big win and I can get enough clearance under my coolant hoses and aircon hoses to get the thing off. WIN. I also upon looking again, found oil all over under the intake, and the actual foam padding on the bottom of the intake was *soaked* and I found there was oil primarily coming out of one of the knock sensor holes, as well as oil smeared around both sides of the intake port gaskets (there's 8 o-rings instead of a gasket). So oil over the valley cover, around the ports. Picture this, but with oil fkin everywhere. Removed Valley cover, and knock sensors, and the valley itself and found the root cause of the problem, the front one is first (fine) and the second one has the apparent issue: That'll do it! Luckily for me, I had pre-ordered supplies BEFORE I pulled it apart, as I had the intent to replace every gasket I could find next time it came apart: Luckily for me, the grommets were included with the valley cover gasket, which looked in such good condition so I didn't replace it (and was actually visibly working fine). But I replaced the grommets, both knock sensors, the knock sensor loom and the knock sensor "Caps" (shown as covers) and every seal felt nice and rubbery and new, and not violently hard and crispy. After some running aruond I also got replacement o-rings for all of the sensors that went into the top of the motor as well. The box of valves has these in them: They cost $120. But in the end, armed with gaskets it was surprisingly fun and wholesome to do, and really, really felt good replacing, old, hard, crap with nice new gaskets and it all went smoothly. I even replaced the Varex with the original muffler I had (they have v-bands to swap) to see just how hard this would be in the real world for a track day. Also found my Varex had a pretty bad exhaust leak too initially. Car sounds signifigantly more meaty given other car people couldn't even hear it when it was on in the presence of other modded cars. Test drive went great. Felt amazingly smooth, sounded great, so who knows if it was placebo or whether there were a large amount of seals that just.. weren't.. sealing. Then I noticed this: Ahhhh yes, toxic aircon gas. Fantastic.

COVID Sure is fun. On the list of things as fun as COVID, I discovered I had an oil leak appearing from the bellhousing (or at least ending/dripping from there). I then googled "Common ls1 oil leaks" and oh yes wow that sure is a lot. I noticed there was oil at the top of the motor and oil always goes down. I checked both valve covers, and they looked to actually be fine and dry and nice and new. One of the more common leaks on a LS is the factory oil pressure sender, which i don't actually use in my scenario. So I thought well lets spend many hours learning how to take the top of the motor apart to get to it. The factory OEM Pressure sender looks like this. They are prone to leaking through the sensor. They look like this: Eventually I found this: So the sensor, into an adapter, into a banjo adapter (with the port plugged off) into the motor. All of which was not required. I replaced it with this: Because GM use a m16x1.5 thread in their oil pressure sender to seal it. So a sump plug should work in that space, which looked like this: Simple, easy fix! Well it would have been, if in doing so I didnt develop a new found rage and hatred for those braided lines going to the catch can. Space behind the manifold is at an absolute premium, and in pulling the line that went to the Driver side breather off, this happened: So then I thought you know what, I am going back to rubber lines as they are more flexible, slimmer, fit easier, and at MOST would hold 1 atmosphere of pressure at sea level, so unless they are exploding while sitting on a shelf at repco they absolutely don't need to be braided. So in doing so, I had to remove the braided hoses from other parts of the motor, like say the intake. Being used to Skyline intakes, I was happy to pull the rubber hose off. Then predictably, this happened. There's supposed to be a barb/nipple/whatever moulded into the intake there. So now the intake had to come off, either to replace with another intake manifold, or buy an upgraded manifold (for $2000) or to see if this can actually be repaired. So off came coolant lines, fuel rails, fuel injectors out of the manifold as well as moving aircon lines out of the way and hours and hours of labor and learning about how this all goes together again. This was the fix on a Saturday afternoon by a friend who owns a workshop and has a steady hand to actually tap and fit a fitting here. I also noticed this vac port at the back of the manifold was just ... sitting there open. Nice: When putting my injectors back in I noticed that some of them looked a little different to others, namely: Normal: However one looked like this.... And most alarmingly, one looked like this! In any case, I said a prayer, put it all back together (with suspect injectors being made VERY accessible) and went out for a test drive. Car felt pretty good, and I came back and found that I didn't fix anything at all, and that I would have to do it all over again and dig a little deeper and find out where the oil up top was really coming from.

I expected a jetski

The answer is actually yes, to all of them. (and probably has been, going back to 90's cars and people who enjoyed 70's cars thinking the same about 90's turbo cars) If you think about what it costs to build up an old car with oem style reliability and target performance, you will find that some cars are actually pretty great value. Safety comes with insulation from the road. This is arguably a good thing even if it's not as 'raw' Its a little easier when you get depreciation going on. Go have a look at a 2012 86 or a 370Z and see how much they sell for, compared to a stock, unrestored 180SX or R32 if they even exist. The comparisons there are pretty easy to draw, my friend recently got a 318ti notchback, coils, 2.8L conversion from the 328i, awesome car to drive, peppy, fun, all bushes and such fixed, good wheels, and comes out to about the price of a 2nd hand 86 from 2013. Now lets say you didn't particularily care about 1995 old school BMW things, "Just going out to buy" an 86 is a much simplier, easier, more sensible, better 'value' option if you add things like emotional and physical labor as a cost as opposed to a 'fun experience'. While cars are still NEW NEW it may be hard to justify 60k for a 2020 Mustang. But would you pay 27k for a Mustang when prices drop, and a stock R34 GTT is ~25k? One of these is massively better than the other in every category but 'old school raw'. Cars are improving, and mods (for power) are becoming less relevent given engine power from OEM is getting far far more accessible/usable/not requiring of boosting a great deal for the track, and double so for any amount of road fun that's semi sensible.

Cmon folks, surely someone wants to do a skid. Technically this is a 1.5 way, it's just everyone thinks 1-ways are actually 1.5 ways.

Reminds me of this! However in my case the car was still making 360rwkw ?