Kinkstaah

Thank you for the update! Good to know the product is... two sheets of semi mouldable stuff and you've just ziptied it around the runners themselves. Maybe this is worth a try after all. Did you just wing it with regards to punching the holes and hope they lined up where the runners were? How many ties did you use? (i.e how many should I buy) Any change on how cool your fans are inside the car? I.e the radiant heat drop from the bay translates into less 50C furnace air coming through the vents when set to "cool, outside air" Good job with the under bonnet stuff! Did you put any of the stage1 stuff to stop vibrations? I think that's the major contributor tbh. But I don't doubt your car will sound far more uh, at home than mine.

Electrically its really pretty simple. There'd be no swap reason this wouldn't work if the dimensions are remotely similar (are they? I do not know). The kicker of course is legality. Does the 304 put out similar emissions to your R33's RB25? The target must be met by the standard of the chassis, not the engine. Meaning your engine may pass in a 1988 commodore, but will be illegal in a 2000 Skyline etc. Unless it meets the year 2000 requirements. The LS itself is extremely dumb and I am assuming an older V8 is even "dumber" so it'll definitely 'work'.. as long as it fits and depends heavily on what you want to keep. I kept AC, and power steering, I cared about OEM dashes working OEM. Most importantly I cared about legality. Depending on how much you care about this depends heavily on how complex a job it will turn out to be.

The 2nd layer stuff is removable, it's not stuck down actually. So can just lift it out after you lift out the carpet 😛 Exhaust noise is awesome. The rest is less awesome. The car sounded better with the windows up than the windows down. Opening the 3.5in Varex rear muffler changed the sound by about 10%. This is not a very fun effect to have. I promise you it's a much better experience at full throttle now than it was before. Which isn't sort of what I expected to happen, but really "It's a much better experience at full throttle" isn't a sentence I should argue with as far as results go.

GTR rotors are 324mm and thicker than the 310mm GTT rotors.

So driving the car round still had some issues after I sold the Megane and really HAD to use this for daily duties. I noticed the following things: It's hot. It's loud. The loudness isn't actually an issue when it's novel, 'oh lol cool muscle car, no radio needed, yeeaaah!' but over time living with it sometimes you want to chill with the windows down, listening to music without being 'that guy' in traffic where everyone can hear your sweet spotify playlist. I had always been keen on products from https://www.carbuilders.com.au after watching their youtube stuff, and my friend had a great result with his 1979 BMW using just their stage 1 (sound deadener) product. I never knew what product to buy for my car (there's many) for many different applications. Eventually I got on the chat line with them on their website and asked if they did installs in my questions about what product I need to buy for X application etc. Turns out they do indeed do installs, and had a great chat about what product to use where, when, how, etc etc. This was one I decided I'd let the pros do. Turns out Skylines have a lot of anti vibration sound deadening in the cabin, so while I was quoted a lot of their 'Stage 1' material They pretty much said they didn't want to install it on the floor given the R34 has a lot already there, and they went around knocking panels like musicians, looking for resonance and said it wasn't required. They did however put some heat shielding in on the transmission tunnel as I had professed its pretty damn hot there. Also note how much OEM 'Stage1' style stuff is there. They did however put some Stage1 stuff on the back of the bonnet and in the boot, as this stuff aint there. They also added this Stage1 stuff to the inside of the (all 4) doors. There were photos but they never got to me, as I only tended to get about 2/3rd of em (tested while standing next to them...) For stage "2" options I ended up opting for the light "heavy" sound deadening option. There's a super light acoustic foam, which is more of a foam, a really really heavy Vinyl loaded stuff, and this in the middle. This went over the top of the rest, as shown below: ... and some for the arches The bonnet got the "Premium Underbonnet" stuff. Which looks like this when installed: Because the above photo is crap, you can now see how it follows the bonnet. Given I didn't need to buy as many boxes of the stage 1 stuff, the guys spent a bit of time putting foam/other materials between the plastic pieces in the boot and the metal. The guys seemed stunned with the vibrations between the plastic liner 'panels' and the metal panels. As though the nissan clips didn't clamp down hard enough etc. Again with their finely tuned tuning knuckles they demonstrated this, and I said "Oh yeah thats .. the exact resonance my bass has from my sub" much to their disgust. Anyway, I was pretty happy with letting them do it because I am very confident it couldn't have been done any better. Was it worth it? I still have an engine that can't be muffled, and maybe someone who drives the car infrequently may not be able to pick it, but for me it was noticable. I was able to do exotic things like "Open the window" and still be able to listen to my stereo, and have said Stereo be interrupted with v8 noises when I got on the loud pedal. Oddly enough the exhaust now sounds way better with the windows down. Previously it did not. So there's definitely been some change, but it's been subtle. I would say there's much less soundS then less total overall sound. Luckily that was all I was after, I can do things I previously couldn't do, so I'll count it a win. Next up, depending on how mlr goes I may or may not be able to address the fact that the 'fresh' air intake in my AC blows at about 50C, and the heater blows at approximately Venus temperature. Long term goal is still make car look not like a joke, and heads, but these are both $7500-10,000 adventures so they'll be postponed near indefinitely I suspect.

This is true. I am still operating under the proviso that "I dont really need it" due to well, non R comp tyres, and hopefully the fact I picked the 'better' LS with regards to oil consumption. With R comps or slicks and aero I think this is a bigger concern but I think I should be alright, I will slide off the track before I get real oil starvation. But there was space there! (and it seems to still be holding the correct amount of charge a week later, as it gets religiously monitored).

My gf is literally about to put hers up for sale. Feel free to ask away if you like (about it, or them in general) via PM to not clog up thread. Unless you want to clog up this thread after all, as it's your thread, do what you like man, fk the rest, turn it into a MX5 thread so this little thing lives on.

Also: Why are you doing it? Does your LS: 1) Overheat if you turn the AC on, on a hot day? (stay away from a UDP if it doesn't) 2) Saturate your engine bay with so much heat that putting the fans on "fresh air" results in like 50+C air being thumped into the cabin? 3) Anything else?

Please do, I've been examining this thing, and the only picture is for a V8 that is *not* the LS1 manifold. (it's from earlier Chev V8s') I am wondering how this thing would go with the coil pack leads. It doesn't look like it'd fit over (over the coilpacks?? across the top of the plug leads?) and has no provisions for spark plug leads themselves. Please post an update as I have the same item sitting in my cart at EMA 😛

I have struggled with heat in mine, both cabin and in engine bay (like with 0.0% airflow...) I am quite keen to know how this works, I could actually see myself buying something like this too. I just spent $2500 on sound deadening/heat shielding inside the car and ye I need more. Does look a bit dinky but everyone looks a bit suprised that I didn't coat/wrap my headers for pretty much the same reason you didn't want to do yours lol.

I think its best to think of it as extra oil volume on demand.. RB's like to keep oil in the head and don't drain down.. TBH I got mine because LS's have notorious issues on left hand sweepers, less so the LS"6" but it became a big issue on the GENIV's, enough for me to go with the GENIII for this reason alone.. That said, I don't think I generate the cornering force to really necessitate the use of one, but I have got the space to fit it, and a short line to the cooler which is a MUCH simpler install compared to what it'd be if there was a RB25/26 with intercoolers and pipes in that location. I don't know if it'd cope with full slicks and aero, but I will only ever have R comps and a shitty ebay wing one day. It is worth noting that when working, with the engine OFF, discharging the accusump gives a good 58 seconds seconds of oil pressure before the oil light comes on with the engine off entirely (i.e ZERO pressure, not 'low' pressure). I think if I take 58 seconds to get around the sweeper the accusump won't be being triggered 😛

Story time! I find a guy on MP with a bonnet for sale, in my colour, in great condition. I go there with car to pick up, across other side of town, peak traffic. Look at bonnet. Seems great. We put bonnet on car. Wrong colour. Seller very confused, checks his bonnet stash (has a few), and there is one in WV2 that is unopened from Japan. We excitedly open it. It has damage. We put my original bonnet back on and I say sorry etc etc. Then I notice this: Time to limp home religiously checking every valve and praying the leak was in the accusump directly. I switched the valve off as the leaking looked to be coming before the valve anyway. Luckily this turned out to be the case, and there was no further leaking on the way home, as I took my plastic trays off multiple times on the multiple hour drive home. Good times. After pulling the thing apart on the weekend my mate and I found a few things. Turns out this was the leak, air leaking from the air side at the gauge. This means the cylinder can get hydrolocked, and puke out the 175psi relief valve (which is where it was coming from). We then pressurized the air side to 60psi to make sure it was sealing. It was. My friend had a great idea to open the valve at 60psi to depressurize it. I did tell him I had the valve open to put the oil into the motor on the drive home a few days ago, then closed the valve, so the cylinder should be empty. However if you're reading you can already see where this logic went wrong. (the hoist was originally entirely yellow) With the accusump professionally emptied, and pressurized to 60psi we confirmed it is no longer leaking with soap and a spray bottle. Re-mounted into car and everything is fine. At least today, as it held pressure fine overnight. However now there's a power steering leak, maybe. Continuing my true LS1 ownership experience. The car is going to Carbuilders.com.au tomorrow to get the entire kit and caboodle (I mean $2500+) of sound deadening thrown at it. I figured as they actually do installs, they will know the products, know how much to apply, and know how to apply it better than anyone. Especially me. LS exhaust sounds awesome. LS1 engine bay sounds and T56 gearbox sounds just yeah. Box full of bolts and nuts in a washing machine. Lets have less of that.

Do not underestimate the hardpark instagram peer pressure. It is very real.

Do not underestimate the hardpark instagram peer pressure. It is very real.

Tbh this is kind of also true of any big HP build. People's opinions of "Daily" differ greatly, as well as "tracking it all the time and it never breaks". They probably don't have the data, as they don't have people that really daily a 800kw R34 GTR even though they say they "daily it all the time" which may mean the odd cruise every 2 months. Ultimately I say the old adage is true. Build the car for the scenario you want to be using it in the most.

I've had Steve's car alarms twice. They seem pretty decent. Enough for me to go back for a second time, they come to you, they have plenty of options and I'm sure the tech has gotten better over the last few years with ... well, all the new tech that exists now.

tbf I have 265's on a 9 and it looks almost completely square with the rim. Forgive the blur. I could conceive someone putting it on a 8.5, but yeah I wouldn't spend the extra money on that when 255/245/235's are a thing.

Tbh having done both the only tricky part really is the auto. It makes more sense to throw a manual in. Making the BIG V8 work is a lot more work outside of the drivetrain. That part is the easy part! The post a couple above is very accurate. Looking at the diagrams back to back you realise its a lot simpler than people make it seem (my memory is hazy now, many years and setups ago). The problem is the inertia of getting someone to actually look at it. The bias of "Oh, a R34???? oh... it's N/A... oh... it's auto.. yeah okay... back of the line" is VERY real.

As above, I would have thought the TCU will get stuck in 3rd/limp mode, because it expects things that it isn't getting. If you can supply what it was getting it'll answer a lot of google searches on this one.

I think FROM MEMORY (which is 7+ years old a memory now, maybe longer) you CAN snip the wires from the gearbox TO the TCU, and connect them to the corresponding pin on the GTT Engine ecu. I know it is documented on the workshop manuals as to what the pins on the TCU are *for* and there is a corresponding pin on the Engine ECU. I noticed this when I was removing the OEM TCU and wiring it into an aftermarket gearbox ECU. I never tried it myself, as I had an aftermarket ECU running the engine anyway. Yes, my fix for this at the time was run a standalone engine ECU for the GTT motor, and run a seperate gearbox ECU to run the gearbox, as the car sat around for 3 years outside of my control while it took specialized JDM workshops to... not... look at the manual and figure it out. Then there's the issue of the fact the NA gearbox is a piece of shit. The GTT gearbox when built up isn't exactly daily friendly either or performance friendly. Spend 10K+ on that. To get this absolutely clear, you won't have a nice, working enjoyable car unless you do the equivalent of an engine/gearbox swap, because that is what you will be doing. And why go to that effort.. for a NA+T and a... N/A auto box? Return everything not bought yet. Sell car. Buy 86. Add turbo. Posting here for future googler's reasons. There is no cheap way to a R34 GTT via a NA+T given the price differences. There never was, but there still isn't now.

You will also have bigger issues than merely this, your auto is going to be in a world of hurt unless you wired the standalone TCU into the loom of the GTT ECU that you have. To get this working you will need to teach yourself wiring and tuning if you haven't already, or be prepared to spend on hundreds of hours of someone else's labor as they figure it out while not wanting to 😛

I mean, while this is all true and all, I managed to get my V8 conversion fully engineered, and when doing so they must pass all elements of the car. It's like a super defect + RWC all in one. It has aftermarket seats (OEM from a different car) and home made adapters (to adapt the seat to the rails)... which were/are Recaro rails for a R34. This may not get the scrutiny you're worrying about, unless you've got bright blue/red seats or something that needs a HANS device or is a full fixed back style seat. I've used a harness with mine, and I wasn't going anywhere. All I can assume is that the engineers just figured they were stock seats. But yeah. Don't cheap out on seats, harnesses, hans, safety. You may feel like a pillock with all the gear but if you're going home to a family at the end of the day no-one can really say you're being silly about it.

Unfortunately (fortunately?) I sold the diff on the weekend. To a guy putting a BMW V10 into a R33. Ambitious but buyer is very cluey.. How about those Nismo stickers on those um Inovit wheels FWIW, I had 9.5 +27 in the past, I was able to get 265's at the front and back, but it requires some very aggressive rolling and the clearances are razor thin. But it can be done if you want more grip in the future!

I am just jealous of how nice the car actually looks. The OEM Plastic lip/skirt/pods really de-uglify the 34 sedan. (Without obliterating ground clearance either) What a neat setup overall. Keep doing what you're doing.

I have 265 on the front, but not on those rims. I can't imagine you will have a problem with 235/40 on front and 265/35 on the rear. Worst case guards may need a slight roll depending on height and camber settings for your car.