Kinkstaah

The kit that I used specifically only mentioned the A too, but the B was no issue. Maybe contact DTM in Geelong (they're closer than MV) and they may be able to assist/recommend something.

Yeah I could not find ANYTHING, at ALL for the RE401B on anything, at all. It wasn't listed for the TCM PCS range either, but it didn't need a lot of smarts, and the TCU that we got was a universal, truly standalone one. In the end it just wanted speedo, tach, and the inputs on when to change gears (pretty much). You could set up the auto shifting and setup a full manual mode. You could change line pressures and such if you really wanted to, but it was hooked up with pretty much max pressure all the time. It had full control of the box and you could configure things like shift lockouts. However you did have to blip the throttle when shifting down - going from 2nd to 1st at 60+kmh would lock up the rears if you didn't blip it. Mine was originally installed by DTM Autos in Geelong - I only really got my hands dirty with it when we re-shelled the car, and I had a GTT to work with instead of the original GT N/A car, so all the wiring for the TCU had to be worked out again! That said, it was a lot simpler than we thought, and we had it going in a couple of hours actually, with just a friend and me on the nature strip of all places.

I used a TCM PCS 2000, which has since been superseded by other TCU's that that company makes. Honestly the gearbox itself (in R34 GTT form) has something like... 8? Wires going to it. It was remarkably not-that-complicated once you have it all out infront of you and a fair understanding of what wire goes where (i.e have the service manual handy). More modern engine ECU's can also control an automatic gearbox. These would actually be my pick because you can then have the engine ECU know about shifting and perform additional functions. I don't know off the top of my head which ECU's manage a motor AND an additional auto gearbox but I would wager the higher end known options do (i.e haltech, link etc)

This is just a really good example of how you don't necessarily need a billion hp on the internet to have fun with a car on road and track. See also: Noone really minds if someone is 2s slower because they don't quite have a billion hp, but you will also find that replacing a 330 engine is faster, easier, and much less frequent than old mate on insta with a billion hp.

Even if you do that, still bad ratios! (I have no idea what people were thinking here)

I have a R34, and I did a manual conversion on it, with a R33 GTST Gearbox. You just need the front half of the tailshaft to suit the gearbox you are putting in. But also as above, you may be surprised how cheap a custom driveshaft is. I've since put a LS into the car and needed 2! driveshafts made up (because I changed the gearbox... yet again) and it's been surprisingly little fuss on the driveshaft front. Don't use a TR6060 though. Bad ratios.

The actuator (and Dose's idea of putting the boost reference post-intercooler) can achieve similar things. Its worth noting that with a stronger spring, you may end up with say, 17psi at the end, but your likely peak will be 19-20 psi. You'll still get the dropoff, but the peak and end point will be higher. To have it flat through the whole range you can't max out the IWG. You'd probably find if you try and run 7 psi it will suddenly not have this 'shape' to the boost curve. I would be very surprised to see any change to a car before or after a return flow FMIC, back to back, when the core is the same size, and same internal design, with no other changes. Has anyone ever cut the end tank off a return flow FMIC, put on a new straight end tank on the same intercooler and done a test? If they have I haven't seen it.... But hey, if you do make a non return flow design it will fail the "It looks stock and uses stock holes" equation in your case. Really to try and make the power without changing the core things that make the power (i.e the turbo) its going to be a series of small changes to get there. Having a track day car and a street car is very different so simply finding a way to add 'a little more boost' may just be enough in your scenario to do it. This is after all a pretty modest/reasonable goal so eking out the last 0.000001% theoretically on the internet shouldn't be required

Given it's a Hiflow Turbo on a stock manifold, I would be looking at some heavy duty actuators (if they exist, do Turbosmart make them? Can they be made to work) There were some pretty nifty dual port ones that did what they said on the Tin, and did all they could to keep that gate closed. I don't think cams are really going to help much, I had the 260 poncams and figured they didn't do much in the real world back to back for spending the $. I think your money would be better spent on getting an EWG in there (which means manifold or turbo housing changes at the very least), and yeah at that point why not a GT3071? Or realistically, a G550? As you said the list goes on, and you're at a precipice where you'd need a lot of fab to 'fix' it. (Turbo, Manifold, Fabrication, injectors, internals? etc etc etc). I also suspect the car is the way it is because it wants to look entirely stock. I've been there too, and had the same problem. Sometimes people overthink things and think cars don't perform the way they 'should' They almost always perform the way they should. A high flowed OP6 with a 2871 with internal gate, on 98 will do exactly this. For it to do anything different you're gonna have to change stuff. The actuator may get you a few more PSI but its worth noting that you're forcing it to happen, making more backpressure/heat in a small housing etc etc etc. Depending on what you want to use the car for, this could be a non issue or a big issue. You'd definitely hold your boost target if you weld it shut etc! Sometimes these little sanity checks have uses. (like staying on 98. E85 you will likely make your target power, but has its own considerations)

It's true - We don't, but most return FMIC's that are easily accessible, for R34's are Blitz's. Which are more than enough, I've seen many a people ditch the return flow, or upgrade the core for no benefit at all. Specifically people chasing boost drop off issues at high RPM, with both RB's and SR's. They were all internally gated and found that EWG's and better boost control instantly solved the problem of... boost control. 2871's and 3071's and all the IWG 3076's in the world have similar sort of problems to this. If OP is on 98 fuel this is a really solid result. But without knowledge of the boost controller duty cycle noone really knows what's going on fully... Can only give reports of other things that have been known to work.

It is absolutely not the blitz FMIC. I have made 500kw through one, with no such drop off, running 24psi through a stroked motor. How is your boost being controlled? If it is a manual controller then that boost drop off is *normal*. If its electronic, are you certain it is at 100% duty cycle towards the end of the run? If you want more flow out of the same turbo, in this situation your answer is letting it breathe better at higher RPM, and If it is, you need to consider running an external gate, or opening up the exhaust side of the turbo (i.e larger housing). The veteran in me says "Enjoy 265kw and drive it long term and have fun with the car"

Driveline wise, the Sedan has a longer tailshaft. That's it. They are the same car under the panels for everything anyone worries about.

For dragstrip use, none of the turbo options truly matter. For daily driving, none of the options really matter one way or the other. Given the description you may as well go with the easiest thing that fits and one that sounds the best to you. Realistically it's the new G Series Garrett. The BW EFR is a great turbo, worthy of consideration - but it's strengths and your use case just don't overlap.

Oh dear. This is one of those where the sound is not ambiguous and "she'll be right". Something is very off there. Especially given how audible it was.. at the rear of the car.

They are measured from the guard line above the center of the rim, downward to the center of the rim. Expect that you will need to lower your pressures for the track day. If you go out with 32psi cold for your first run, this can end up being 50psi when you are at the end of that session due to the heat put into the tyres. So expect the first session to be pretty greasy. Expect to have to let considerable air out. Can you do this before and go out on like 25psi cold before you go? Yeah you can, but you need to kind of know where to set it, lest you take too much air out and not get them up to the right pressure when hot. Don't sleep on this and be like "ah it'll be fine" the difference between a 50psi tyre when hot and a correctly inflated tyre when hot is massive, and these are keeping you on the road out there when you're doing 200+. Spend the couple minutes after the session and check them 😛

Let the man have his wooshie noises. Note: Wooshie only applicable if using MAP based ECU. (or you plumb it back, losing some wooshie)

Except a smaller turbo often has more area under the curve. Realistically if you're serious you would evaluate the RPM ranges you use most commonly and do some math to determine where you'd get the most gains. DBW and TC can make for better lap times for better auto-management of torque so the driver can have an easier time getting the thing out of a corner. A bigger, laggier turbo making less power in this scenario (if its noticeably less than the amount that TC and DBW combined with the smaller turbo can provide) would be slower. But yeah if you're at this point you probably have telemetry you can lean on on to see what RPM's you're actually in, when you're in them, and how much average power you're making when you want it. I won't say bigger is better but generally if you're under 5000rpm you may be in the wrong gear.

When GT3 racecar manufacturers (Mclaren, Porsche, Acura, Nissan, many other mfg's) all have 500 HP engines lasting 60 hours of use time, or, 12,000km of use (I mean, its track kms though obviously) you know that if they could have made that more reliable... they would have - given they have a massive interest in doing so by having a more reliable motor than their competitors. And they are not cheap cars, nor cheap engines... But um... nah mate I have 1000kw for 8 years no breakdowns bruh #bulletproof

Why would it be legal? Has it been crash tested? Ever seen one ever on a production car? Want to think as to how a chassis mounted wing somehow doesn't protrude a) above the roofline b) wider than the body lines c) beyond the rear bumper People who really require a chassis mount wing don't ask questions about buying one off a shelf. They would have made various other aero by themselves or a very expensive motorsport team. It is very obvious that this one is intended to be bought for clout only.

You let the Nissan out Realistically, 300kw. Use it. Enjoy it. Potentially even use it again 😛

The R34 has a much faster reacting oil pressure display. Other Skyline owners hated me when I was like "what, the OEM oil pressure works perfectly?" When I re-shelled my car, I noticed my oil pressure display was slow. I re-bought the OEM nissan sensor and it was fast again. Me thinks in this case it was the sender being updated in some revision, at least in this one, specific case!

Oh if it were only that simple lol

There is one in Vic, at Docklands. ABMarc hire time out. It costs about $2000 a session, with a good 2-3 month wait time, pre-covid. The other one is Sydney at Botany RMS. This is free. Making an appointment was super easy.

All of the brands and prices are likely going to be different here. These cars aren't new, and everyone here has been here for well over a decade and know the game. Everything is custom made. Intakes for your turbo, manifolds, exhaust are all custom to every application. Lines, hoses etc - Custom to every application. Dyno tuning is custom to every car. The G25/G30 Garretts are likely the simplest fit if you aren't doing all the labor yourself. Mainly due to the fact they're physically smaller. I would go a full race manifold simply because they're good, and USA based. All the stuff in AU will be going 6boost et al which are australian based. Intercooler, eh - If you have a guy who is going to make you a full custom exhaust, it's not a stretch for the same guy to make up intercooler pipes to suit whatever core you have available locally that can fit. Same story for intake/pod/airbox if you want one of those. If you can get a plug in ECU it will save a lot of time and heartache. ---- You could go smart and forget about a custom manifold, and a custom turbo and get in touch with Hypergear for a truly bolt on applicaiton that will make the power. 350whp is possible with: Stock exhaust manifold Stock turbo that has hiflowed internals (which means it bolts up perfectly to stock lines, stock intake etc). This will be much simpler, but you'll still need an exhaust of some description, though you COULD get away with an off the shelf dump pipe, making your exhaust guy's life much easier. Still need an intercooler of some description, but you could get by with a return flow kit (blitz etc) that will work fine for that target. The only other fabricatory thing you'd need is some kind of metal intake to the turbo, as the silicon can suck shut under that much vacuum. Still need ECU, Injectors, Coilpacks (likely), and fuel pump that isn't too hard to fit/mount, and make sure you get 14V to that pump instead of the OEM 12. Will this perform as well as a full race/garrett small G series turbo to make the same peak power? No. Do you care? Depends on your budget and very much on how much access to custom fabrication you have.

This guy is definitely going to have all sorts of pain owning a car like this. You have to upgrade pretty much everything to get 260kw. The only difference between what you need for 260kw and 560kw is the engine build part. Still need every supporting mod, and buying a 260kw turbo is much the same price as a 560kw turbo.

And it would be certainly cheaper to just buy my already converted LS + TR56/6060/Magnum combination. So what's your budget? 😛 It is well worth stating that this is not a cost effective scenario. None of it is. If you want bang for buck you have the wrong platform and pretty much any other platform will get you where you want for less. Have a very well defined goal before planning anything or spending a cent.