Kinkstaah

If the CD009 had a 7th gear it'd be perfect. Still perfect for track use, kinda if you want to max out top gear on the track. That said with that kind of power to do that you're effectively got no use for 1st. What you want is the shorter middle gears with an acceptably long first. BRB I am going to hug my T56 Magnum some more.

The pressure should drop. Maybe not instantly, but it should. It doesn't just hold the pressure indefinitely when the engine is off and the fuel is not pumping. If it did, there would be no need to prime the fuel system... ever. If the pressure is dropping or being too high (or really, fluctuating) while the engine is running then there's an issue with the FPR. If you have two sets of stock injectors, and two stock FPR's and two fuel rails, I wouldn't be chasing the fuel side of the engine bay at this point for your problem. Personally I'd be re-checking that MAF (is it the same auto/manual/is it clean? did you actively clean it with MAF cleaner?) Alternatively, anything else custom in that circuit? You have spark, but do you know you have spark at the right time?. You've set timing to 15deg, but have you checked it with a timing light? Could it be out? Whats your CAS doing?

Also worth noting - The videos don't seem to work (at least when I clicked on them) Troubleshooting methodology is better than most Mr GTSBoy 😛 Generally though - Why swap a rail? How could a rail fail other than it leaking? And if it leaks with 50PSI you will absolutely note it is time to replace the rail. Fuel pressure doesn't stay indefinitely. It also doesn't drop away straight away. I doubt we have a tunable ECU in there to see what is going on, in which case you'd better make sure you're running stock injectors, stock rail, stock FPR and basically stock everything if you're going to use the stock ECU's error codes to diagnose stuff.

I think it can certainly be done, and upon reading the manuals you can see how it could very conceivably work as above. The workshop manuals are very direct and easy to interpret, surprisingly so! I think it becomes hard because people do not read the manuals, do not have the gusto to compare the wiring diagrams and think "Well what if I...." and assume it will plug and play, which it won't. It may however, be a wire-in job. It probably is, the only thing that throws me (personally) is wondering why Nissan went to the extra work of making two seperate systems in the GTT and GT. There could be some reason, but it may have absolutely no effect.

Keep in mind noone has ever documented actually doing it. But if you have the NA ECU/TCU diagrams and the GTT ecu pinouts you can see that the GTT has extra pins that correspond to the exact pinouts of the NA TCU. I am ASSUMING you can join/bridge these up. ASSUMING. At the time I noticed this, I already had an aftermarket engine ECU, and an aftermarket Transmission ECU. I noticed this when I was re-wiring in the aftermarket transmission ECU as I swapped from a GT chassis to a GTT chassis. I too, wish I knew this information before I bought a haltech, and a $2000 aftermarket auto transmission controller. If it doesn't work, go manual, the NA box won't live long behind a turbo motor anyway. Even if built. I know that one too, from experience.

If you have an auto (which most people do when asking this question it seems) you cannot use the GTT ECU to control it plug and play. You also cannot just leave it as is, and let the TCU control itself. The TCU by default wants to talk to the GT ECU. If you want to use a GTT ECU *only* you have to wire the TCU into the GTT ECU. If you want to use a standalone ECU for the engine, you either piggyback that off the GT ECU (gl with that) or have a complete aftermarket TCU to control the gearbox. Go manual.

I finally figured out what was going on with my TC, after ... years. And all it took was looking back at a different logfile which looked like this: This is a run where two wheels were messing up. One (the green one) had never had issues before. And strangely enough, later in the run where the green one was having issues, the red one was behaving itself, and going higher in speed than it previously had ever done without an issue. How could this be occurring, while I'm driving, on a sensor I've never had issues with, that I've definitely not touched, and how could the red one give me different readings, something it's never done before. Then it twigged. This is the R34 ABS ecu, where the wires for speed sensors get spliced into. My abomination of test wiring over the years meant I could never really clamp the "handle" down in the way I've attempted to illustrate. ..... I went back and messed with the wiring to enable the ECU to actually make a proper connection. The 0.5mm copper washer I installed also worked. The problematic wheel kicks in at 13kmh (which is ideal, given the TC starts working at 14kmh by default, because 5/10% of 14kmh is well within margain of sensor error and you don't want cuts then. Also none of the wheels have problems now. Because they're all plugged in properly, or.. more.. properlier than before. Also funny enough, new GPS cable actually works great with the head unit. All I pretty much have to do now is put my boot back together, mount the GPS sensor properly as opposed to taping it to the dash, and.. everything is fine...except the swaybar thing. And a battery. And a dipstick bracket. But those are apparently being delivered to me soon. soooon.

A Nistune is kind of a stand alone ECU. You'd want some kind of tunable ECU, it doesnt have to be the bees knees, but you'd need to tune it to do it properly, because a NA+T is _not_ a stock car/tune, and even stock GTT cars get tuned anyway. Just keep in mind the GTT auto ecu will NOT run a NA auto without wiring the standalone auto ecu that is in the NA cars, directly into the GTT ECU. Which may only work in theory, but the same pins exist in the GTT ECU that are seperated (for some reason? Maybe a good one!) to the GT standalone TCU.

Short answer: Daily driving? No. Longer answer: It could theoretically be done, but you'd have to get absolutely everything spot on perfect, and anyone who can pull that off has enough self doubt to want to verify the setup works correctly... by tuning it. A Nistune is what you want. If you cannot afford a Nistune + Tuning time, or a plug in ECU for the Donor ECU you are using (Haltech, Link or similar) then this project is out of reach. Yes, its a large expense for a DE+T that might make 200kw. This is also still the cheapest option.

I could do that, but the lowest impact on the bar is 10mm from the top (i.e almost directly in the center) Yes, would gain some space via the 'radius' of the bar getting more clearance as its further away, but I'm not so sure on how well that math works with 5mm... Machining them down is an option though, as well as grooving them to allow for the whiteline bush shape. Every mm counts in this scenario! I also did reach out for a company that does custom swaybars also 😛

This will sadly have to be revisited. Mate came to the rescue with some 12mm plates, lovingly crafted to fit the underside of the car after taking the bushes away while giving a quote for some home renovations (actually did though, Mr Andrews) Unfortunately the Whiteline bush has a little /\ in it, causing issues, needs to have a groove cut in the new saddle. Unfortunately even if it did, the studs off the body just aren't long enough and need to be (somehow?) extended, as they only seem to come down... the exact length of the saddle, which is about 12mm thick. Funnily, the car drives really great without a front sway bar at all. I was quite alarmed at this because you'd think it would be a complete wallowy mess, but it drives well, to the point where you'd not get into it and think "Man this needs more swaybar at the front". Someone putting it up on a hoist to discover no sway bar at all would be very very suprised. I've also learned some places do custom swaybars. Thats also another option if providing the whiteline one as a template. I don't believe it's a great idea for a fabricator to modify a swaybar to change the bar itself. Yay/Nay? In other news, using a sump plug with copper crush washer seems to have sorted my power steering leak from a sensor I don't need and have never used, and could not use, but made provisions for.. for no reason. I am missing a dipstick bracket which has gone wandering since I got the car back, still need a battery as this optima one has shattered terminals, need to install a plug so my rear muffler can actually be disconnected without ripping out wiring, and I have a new GPS cable for the headunit, one without CAT6 cable spliced into it. On that note: Anyone here a magician with Magnetic Reluctors? Info on the ground is tiny on this, and my traction control seems to still do impossible things with the Rear Left sensor only. However, I have replaced the diff (so have different tone rings) Replaced the sensors themselves (twice, and once again with the new diff) Checked all the wiring, at least until where it comes into the boot. The troublesome wire from the traction control unit has been wired to the (working) rear right sensor and it behaves as expected. Unfortunately with a Helical rear diff, I need independent rear speed sensors. Not so much an issue when they physically move the same speed, but that is not the case anymore. Here's a graph I drew. imagine it in terms of Road Speed over Time. At a certain speed the sensor goes haywire. I have temporarily used a washer to space it out. This makes it work from 40-130?ish KMH instead of working from 0-70kmh without the spacer. Ideally I'd be happy with it working from 20kmh to .. 130? kmh, so I'll try a thinner spacer as a dodgo method.

I'm not sure what impact it'd have on the end links. Luckily they are threaded and can extend down a fair amount to keep the mounting bolts/studs at right angles.. so that should hopefully have the room there to mount the bar lower (or the engine higher). One of these is significantly easier while under there looking at PS lines/sensors.. and well, I'd be a little happier to use my FSB as the lowest point of the engine bay rather than the sump in any case. There is hope for some semblance of handling, yet!

This is an excellent plan.

I checked the other bar.. and yes there's a tiny but not insignifigant mark on it. It appears the marks on the sump were indeed caused by the OEM Swaybar. There was about 20mm of clearance between the bar and the sump. So I guess the answer is... no front sway bar. Unless there's any other option!

FML.

(the whiteline kit comes with those bushes) It also came with heavy duty links for the front, replacing the heavy duty links I already had. I thought about moving these pre-used heavy duty links to the back, to replace the new 'pin' style ones but thought .. no.. I CBF and I'm sure it's fine...

So what happened from that point was.. actually.. pretty straight forward. The road brakes went in really easily except for ONE GOD DAMNED WIRE AT THE REAR THAT TOOK ABOUT 45 MINUTES TO GET OUT but all in all pretty good, for me. I did the rear sway bar first because, it'd fit. I knew it'd fit, and it was also generally less painful. Suprisingly, reading the manual as to how the links work, a little bit of fiddling it all went in pretty perfectly. Suspiciously I moved to the front. I swore a lot attempting to remove the front sway bar, and in the end resigned myself to having to remove the castor arms to get to them, which is probably what normal people have to do in any case. I also noticed one obvious thing, which made me wonder, was I on drugs for the last 14 years of owning this car? It's very apparent that: The Whiteline bar is .. 24mm? Instead of the OEM 22. It bolts to the same point on the car, using the same brackets, with the same bolt holes. Thus, it can only ever at any point, have 1mm less clearance to say a sump, than a stock swaybar. I also noticed that the 'tightness' of the bar does not, and can not affect where the sway bar sits relative to the sump due to the above line. I also noticed that there was plenty of clearance for all four of the adjustment tabs in regards to the rest of the steering/knuckle/suspension components. Pictured: Me looking up at the mounting brackets from under the car, realising I sold and re-bought sway bars (at a loss) for absolutely no reason whatsoever. Also removing and re-adding them to the car for no reason whatsoever. And hacking them up in the past for no reason whatsoever. I put a bit of tape there for lols, but given I have about 22mm of clearance to the sump at the closest point, AND the fact that I have only affected my clearance by 1mm, I can't imagine it being any different than the OEM swaybar was. Note: That mark on the sump was there prior to anything I did to the car. It doesn't line up with the sway bar either, so I don't know what's going on there, and the OEM swaybar had no damage on it in that general region. Yes, I very much checked it. I then got to drive the thing, properly, with the interior in, and sway bars on (The sway bars are also excellent. They feel just like they used to..) to do some road tuning given I had changed some injector characteristics to combat overlap issues with cammed LS's. As a result, a positive one - Some of the very low load areas were very rich now, meaning fuel is going into the cylinder instead of out the exhaust valve. Excellent. The car also drives pretty damn smoothly now. Even more excellent. This could also be because the clutch actually is fully disengaging.. it now has a VERY high bite point and drives like a stock clutch which is a little disconcerting. And I drove it back to back with the Type R - It really does have a stock feeling clutch. As for the T56 Magnum, with the Mal Wood Shifter, this has got to be the best manual gearbox ever. 70mm of throws is ludicrous, and there is no (and I mean... no, 0.0%) play in this shifter. When it's in gear, it feels like you could jack the entire car up by the shifter sideways, this thing feels actually bolted in. The center spring is ridiculously strong, and the whole thing needs nearly no effort to shift at all. It is lighter than the Civic shifter, though you do have to be more precise, because as I said, 0.0% play. It is the most H of H patterned things I've ever seen. It does make some very mechanical clacking sounds when being operated though. To say it's worlds apart from a T56 is an understatement, but again.. my clutch is actually working now so take that with a pinch of salt. The Magnum Synchros are reportedly much better but before I basically didn't have any, though no fault of the T56 😛 Still, I have to do a lot of kms to run the gearbox in, and then drop the oil and put Transmax Z in it, after about ~1000-1500kms. Then suppsoedly it's 'much nicer'. So that'll be something to look forward to, but as it is, very very happy and I wouldn't be buying a 2nd hand T56 for $3k when you can buy a new magnum. Even in my case where I needed a new tailshaft because I have a different rear case on mine. It's possible to buy a Magnum F which will bolt right up, but for 'reasons' I didn't go that route. Next up: This You know, that sensor we decided to keep although 1) It leaks 2) We didn't know what it was for 3) I have not gone to plug it in 4) I have no means to plug it in as there was no suitable plug/wire when we were doing the conversion Why didn't we just make the line straight, and not include it? No no no, that would be too sensible, I must now drain and flush my power steering solution and cap a sensor with a plug that will hopefully be the same pitch/thread and seal with a suitable O ring. Yes, this is another S2 R34 Only sensor used in random 2003 onward maximas and random cars from f**king russia. This is the official part picture from the Nissan parts diagram. ....

I'd assume he's talking about the plastic guard liners. I would also like to know about this, or get custom ones made for ... reasons.

They'd definitely sell, for a price. That's for sure.

I continue to drive around that Type R with it's Quaife diff and POD and VTEC and wonder, is this peak car? Is this literally the most fun you can have in a car realistically? There's something about 8200+ rpm in 2nd gear just being under the state sanctioned speed limit to be really entertaining as far as a road car goes. But because I'm a fking idiot, my R34 is back after it's clutch adventure in January. I have spent 30 hours in the past three days as it's been back and likely to spend more tomorrow. I had a list of things to look into and parts I had accumulated since January.. After sending my dipstick into my engine bay and painting said engine bay with oil multiple times, I rrealised I put a one way valve in an area where a one way valve should not be. I also bought valve covers with extra slots and Elite Racing's oil catch cap and breather to the intake. I also bought the cowl seal which mostly went in okay. After replacing my valve covers and running new lines for this PCV system, I realised I couldn't use these valve covers that I had wrinkle painted black during my away-car-time, because a) They were in crap condition when I looked at them closely on the underside. Didn't much like the idea of flaking paint (no, I painted the correct side) in my rockers and springs which looked great b) My original valve covers were already painted black, I had forgotten c) My original valve covers had nice baffling in them, the replacement ones, well ONE of them did, and the other one didn't. d) The replacement ones I painted didn't actually fit. They fouled on things attempting to fit. So hooray, I changed valve covers twice for no reason. I was also greeted with an Airbag light, my horn not working, and my steering wheel buttons not working. This is mysterious issues to have after the car not being driven at all since it came off the road. I pulled off my newly fitted carbon cooling panel thing, checked the horn, all seeeemd okay. I checked my Varex with the handheld thing, and no, didn't seem to work. I removed my entire center console looking for the control box which is mounted near the airbag box, only to rememeber it's actually mounted in the boot. Then when I checked the actual muffler itself, the wires leading to it were actually broken from the plug, likely as a side effect from the "Heatshield the entire exhaust under the car" thing. Wired that back together, found that the dongle worked as expected. At this point I had an airbag light and a non working horn, and buttons. Without the correct tools I eventually got the steering wheel off, airbag off, and the clock spring off, to find it damaged. Luckily I had a spare, which I bought many years ago when an Autoelec told me that that was the problem with an airbag issue I had in 2014. (it wasn't the issue). Clockspring replaced, my steering wheel buttons working, and my horn working as I found out about 217 times while replacing the airbag... I still had an airbag light. I consulted the service manual. It was no help, as diagnostics didn't work, the car didn't enter diagnostic mode. I then went to the internet, attempting to find out if anyone had a similar problem, and found this: Only to find myself with the same issue from 2014, with no recollection of what the fix was. IF I FORGET AGAIN, OR ANYONE EVER SEARCHES FOR THIS THE NISSAN SKYLINE R34 SERIES II HAS A DIFFERENT AIRBAG RESET METHOD THAN OTHER SKYLINES, INCLUDING THE R34 SERIES I. INSTEAD OF USING THE DOOR SWITCH MULTIPLE TIMES ON KEY ON METHOD DOCUMENTED EVERYWHERE INCLUDING THE WORKSHOP MANUAL, THE R34 SERIES II SKYLINE GTT NISSAN USES THE LATER 2003-2010 NISSAN STYLE, WHERE YOU KEY ON, WAIT FOR THE LIGHT TO DISAPPEAR AND BEGIN ITS FIRST FLASH. BEFORE THE FIRST FLASH, TURN THE CAR IMMEDIATELY OFF, REPEAT THIS SEQUENCE 5 (FIVE) TIMES. ON THE SIXTH TIME START THE CAR. THE LIGHT WILL STAY ON FOR 7 SECONDS THEN CLEAR. THIS ONLY CLEARS THE AIRBAG ECU OF FAULTS. IF YOU HAVE A FAULT FROM HERE IT SHOULD BE ABLE TO BE DIAGNOSED USING THE METHOD DESCRIBED IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL WITH REGARDS TO USER MODE AND DIAGNOSTIC MODE. f**k While the dash was entirely apart, I attacked the rats nest of wiring for my head unit, trying to determine why my GPS and DAB do not work very well (at all in regards to GPS). I had hilariously mounted them upside down (sticky side to windscreen) when they are clearly meant to go on the dash, and point up. In any case it was for naught, as I found that someone had cut my GPS wire, and spliced in a 1 meter length of... CAT6 networking cable. I also found that my cigarette lighter wiring was also freshly broken. Excellent. I then decided to drive the car, because it was on the light, my tyres had been at 20psi from the track day for the better part of a year, and the driveway was about to be full again. You know what's amazing, I found five different servos with out of action air services. Pretty excellent for a 5km radius. I also un-spliced my traction control wiring, as I had linked the rears. This really worked great with the 1.5 way, but not so much with the helical, at low speed especially. This was worth doing considering I had cleared out the boot entirely after actually finding the Varex control box. On the list now was to put my road brakes back in, and install the Whiteline Swaybars that I also previously owned in the past but sold because why only do something once in life? I am writing this at 10PM on day three, and I'm not done yet. So I'll update that with some actual impressions of how it all is, once it actually some what resembles a functioning car. TLDR: Greg received car back This happened:

I mean, you could set it to instantly kill the motor before the oil pressure drops to a point where damage could occur. But this is also potentially unrecoverable, if it drops at 7000rpm, the damage is done by the engine decelerates from 7000rpm to 0. It certainly wouldn't hurt in scenarios where you have *low* oil pressure in certain scenarios, vs say instant 0 oil pressure problems. In theory you could tie this into an Accusump system. I.e if it's been triggered for more than 1S kill the motor, and let the accusump carry you through until your engine decelerates from 7000 to 0... None of this applies to a PowerFC though 😛 PowerFC is as basic tunable ecu for fuel and spark. It's not that it's bad, RB's are simple engines electronically after all - its that it's not really good value for money. Noone should buy one. If you got a car that has one already, that has already been tuned for it, you may consider keeping it depending on your needs, but that's about it. Their niche has been more than adequately covered by Nistune. If that didn't exist you could make an argument for a PowerFC if you got one very cheap.

If you want to (or want someone else to) enjoy driving the car, 300kw is the magic sweet spot for approximately everything as one whole cohesive car ...system.

Consider the fact that the RPM gauge itself may be working just fine. It has to get it's signal from somewhere else. This is where the above post from GTSBoy starts to provide better context.

It would be incredibly weird if you were manually selecting 4 to 3, for example - And found out that the number changes but the actual gear doesn't. Probably the first time I think anyone has reported that one, ever.

Given you said racing... inside the cabin against the transmission tunnel where the passenger used to be seems common, So you can manually open/close them as you start/stop the motor which is the most reliable method. You can get a solenoid to do this, but it adds complexity and while it makes a lot of sense that it 'shouldn't fail.... the other option is a manual handle. Corvette guys like to mount them just inside one of the guards, vertically but they get _reports_ of leaking from there. Mine is mounted horizontally, but given it's a cylinder full of pressurized oil, I can't really see how that'd change much... My car no longer has a RB In it... and uh, it's mounted to the back of the front reinforcement bar. Not really an option with a front mount intercooler, but I don't have that either, so the routing to my oil cooler and where the oil cooler made a _LOT_ of sense for me.