Kinkstaah

I had similar with my 25row cooler, to the point where I was kinda concerned about the oil never getting hot enough... ever. It was perpetually under 100C _without_ the cooler and most of the RB life driving around was like 65C... Mine is now behind an indicator which is nice enough to remove/add for the track (in a R34). but yeah, it overcooling is something that happens on the road..

I have a 3QT. It depends on how MUCH oil pressure you are losing, and how much oil the accusump has in it. By this I don't mean only if its a 1/2/3QT. If you want the Accusump to deliver oil pressure quickly it means setting it up so more of the canister's internal area is taken up by air, not oil. They refer to this as the "pre charge PSI" but in reality it's taking up more space. All the people refer to it as extra sump CAPACITY and how it operates is pretty bang on in regards to that aspect. However.... You can never have too much protection from oil starvation. If you have ECU failsafes on oil pressure this helps even more, you can tie the accsump in with sensors to know when they kick in, etc, so you will never 'run out'.

Just to back GTSBoy up here, what OP is hearing is a placebo. Mufflers don't REALLY (they do a little, but honestly not much) change the sound of any exhaust, though they do change the volume. ALL RB's sound similar. Indistinguishable. You'd get more difference out of changing the cams, or manifold, which noone really does. (for purely sound reasons). It comes as a byproduct of turbo/performance which aren't the issue here. Sometimes there's not a lot of search results because it became kinda self apparent 18 years ago. The differences you're likely hearing between videos etc are far more likely to be mostly caused by the quality of the recording equipment and how that's been setup.

I said it in the other thread It will end in tears. and it it'll be the tears of the R34 owner lol.

I was under the impression it was smaller, more compact, cheaper than manual that I went with. That said a R34 is not a S chassis (but given RB boxes fit in S chassis, I'm making an assumption its roughly similar) Looking at the OG context of this thread, I don't know if a DCT would disqualify you from WTAC and whether they'd hold true to automatic, given the context of the automatics the car came with, i.e you must have a torque converter. But the DCT boxes do fit in a lot of things, seem to be picking up traction instead of manual boxes for SR, 2JZ, RB, LS etc as the gearboxes are starting to be real pricy and ... slower. But as dose said, you know what comes from the factory with this great DCT installed, coupled with a stout 3L TT engine? The donor BMW it came from lol.

The BMW DCT's have solid conversions nowadays (I almost put one into my car behind the LS but it wasnt quite mature yet). Is that not an option? Given how much power you're putting down I'd be looking in that scenario as the whole thing was $3000 cheaper than putting the magnum in my car lol.

It is fun for tuner types like myself (and clearly Josh) to get the car running as "optimally as possible". I've spent many fun hours making the car run a little leaner/smoother cruising along at 100kmh in 6th. None of this makes any sense, see you all in iRacing 😛

The fact that there is a sensor in the engine bay is alarming enough when it comes to widebands, but the 4.2 is more sensitive than the 4.9 in that aspect (apparently). My 4.2(s) has lasted a very long time mounted in the specific manner they request to be, which is on a certain angle, and at least (!) 1 meter away from the exhaust manifold. If it's in the dump pipe in the stock O2 location, in a dump, 20cm from a turbine housing, expect to be periodically replacing these.

This is not how the internet works these days Mr GTSBoy, sorry to say. The humans are the search results. The answer is no, not stock, definitely go manual, and the cheapest/easiest solution is to buy a new R34 manual box while you still can, from Nissan which is $3500. For all the other parts and processes you will need, there's many writeups that no one can just instantly provide.

I've had one for years (mounted near the cat, which is where they say to mount them, NOT the dump) Wideband AFR is only one measurement, presumably injector ms has not changed. I also had scenarios where as Ben is alluding to, one filter was blocked, and the previous one wasn't. I.e Ryco into 25micron filter into the 10 micron filter buckets on the injectors themselves. One or more of these may be clogged/acting up and if your filters aren't fine enough, it'll be your injectors. And if your filters are too fine, you'll be constantly changing them. Cars are fun. I noticed this pretty much any time I changed from 98 back to E85 I'd have this issue but it could easily be some clog in my system that gets stirred up from changing solvants and not a general problem affecting everyone

Consider your fuel filter. I had considerable issues with the R34 Ryco style fuel filter if I changed fuels, or let E85 sit around. It would clog to the point where making 300+kw would start to run lean. Something to check if your injectors come back OK. Well worth checking the injectors first though/as well, as you don't want to be running rich on 4 cylinders, and lean on 2 etc!

This, while disappointing isn't entirely inaccurate. There's only so accurate you can get when you have larger injectors and a certain 'step' you have to use to drive them. The minimum adjustment the powerFC can make results in it being too rich on one setting, and too lean on the other. Newer ECU's allow for finer 'steps' which means these can be dialled in more. That said, you'd think the tuner would at least be able to get it running with the whole '1 step too rich' being the norm. Especially after a 3 hour drive..

You have an X5 as a punishment car. Everything else should be on the table, you've done your time! Looks good, the front looks weird, back looks ace. It's the lastest in the line of "basic platform car" that the aftermarket can take hold of an make their own, i.e the next of the GR86/400Z/GR Yaris style of car. It'll be interesting to see how it holds up to the Mustang. People in AU do clearly tend to enjoy buying cars of that ilk given how many 86's, MX5's and Mustangs one sees around

7163 on a SR20 was absolutely awesome unit. I had a 7670 on a RB28 and it was also a really awesome unit. Twins can be suitable for some packaging reasons. In a RB it makes no sense as packaging wise, Nissan just... put... two turbos in the space of one, and two manifolds in the space of one, as one big twin scrolling exercise for group A reasons and also because it was 1989.

The real difference isn't "Single vs Twin" its the fact that for any kind of sensible power figure, Single turbo development has kept on going instead of the direct bolt on twins in the 90's. You could use two of these new, modern turbos, for approximately the same result as a single of the same total size of two modern ones combined, but as that is more expensive, and more complicated, and that generally turbos get more efficient as they get larger..... people don't choose to do this.

I get what you're saying now - It may be worth attempting to reverse engineer this What is required to take whatever you have and convert it to GTR, S15, or 350Z diffs? I would wager there's no way to truly know without replacing the whole thing, or at least being able to replace the entire thing and see where you end up. Sincerely, R34 GTT owner in similar/identical situation.

There isn't. The options for Nissans are 1) GTR 2) S15 3) 350Z Quaife make nothing that suits anything else.

The twins have SOME merit because you can say they were made specifically by Garrett as upgrades for this specific car (I don't mean factory upgrades, but turbos made specifically for the RB26). To use the car as an actual performance car for actual performance, a smaller Garrett G series as a single would be absolutely awesome, and be physically small and absolutely give you lovely clearance to everything and more than enough power without blowing things to smithereens. You wouldn't pick any other Garrett turbo in 2021 - They are their best product, though many other products of the past would still be considered a big upgrade to stock.

BC was made for this situation

Its the other way around, should buy a proper sim setup and sell the actual track car. Much more racing, Better competition, Much less cost, Massively more accessible. Infinitely more safe. Doing actual wheel to wheel is kinda nonsensical...

I dunno, they are love it or hate it, and I kinda dig it (as does the gf). I've only done very limited driving but I absolutely loved the dash/seating position!

I still await Startrack for my Balancer. In the meantime, my lovely girlfriend sold her Turbo MX5. Her criteria was "Something Japanese, Fun, but a hatchback" (cause she doesnt like 100kmh highways in a MX5, and tends to go to bunnings a lot) Basically my Megane, but Japanese. Because she is blessed, not cursed, this is now in the driveway, 1 day later. Bonus Extras (that she and seller didn't notice, but I did) Genuine P1 Buddy Clubs Genuine Mugen Wang Short shifter of some sort (shifts amazingly, def not stock - we test drove a few cars) Aftermarket Helical LSD (Quaife?) One of the other ones we tested had an Intake, for max VTEC sounds. So we're getting one of those. As for how it drives, I have now experienced 3 different cars in this household I should primarily drive around instead of my R34. I googled bolt on supercharger kits for the K20, which was the inspiration for my mate's supercharged BMW, and found that when I overlaid a video of someone doing a 50-250kmh pull, and my own video at Sandown in the LS Skyline... they were identical in acceleration. Every frame of the entire thing. It was eerie. My lovely gf is extremely happy, and I am too. They really do drive excellently, and the fit and finish and interior is just awesome. I am more excited to drive this thing around than my own car, which I hope to high heaven is just because it's new to me and a great deal/hilariously good buy. However this completes our household change from Turbo life to N/A Purity!

Turns out this is not happening, because when going onto the car.. this is a LS1 Corvette balancer, not the Commodore one I called about to confirm it was 100% the right fitment before ordering. Whoopsie. Left = Old LS1 25% UDP balancer Mid = 6.0 LS2 balancer Right = My now on the way back to the supplier Corvette LS1 balancer.

This is both news and makes sense to me. What I can't find is anyone saying anything about how the steering feels any different afterwards. I guess it would help with RPM based problems assuming the Astra pump is driven steadily and not RPM dependent. I.e in the future I will almost certainly try this cause...reasons.... (the reason will be something broke)

I haven't - But my power steering I have noticed is not actually the LS1 model that everyone complains is shit/overheats/leaks from every orofice. I dont know if I haven't had problems due to the fact it was previously underdriven 25%.... now that it is driven at normal rate it could be more of a problem, and it may be less heavy! I'll have to wait and see. They also sell a 150mm pulley, the stock/spare one I have is 137mm. I assume* the one on the car is also 137mm. OEM reservoirs have a filter in them and are pretty damn cheap to replace, if that starts leaking. Seems a better option than the alloy res everyone seems to upgrade to. My pump is actually the VZ/VE pump, and I'm not often at full lock at full RPM. However that looks like a potential little side project down the way, other than letting go of the purity of hydraulic power steering of course!