Kinkstaah

I genuinely enjoy cruising around in an auto 2008 Hyundai Accent when I just want to go places and don't want any fuss, performance or emotion and just look out the window all tranquil like when I commute about, so I understand the above post and where you're coming from.

I'm not sure we agree on the term "quite often" given the above info....

tbh life is a lot better with more friends and less power. If I was going to give advice to a 15 year old version of me, I'd go with that.

You could try low balling the Australian ones, you never know if a "30k" car is truly a 30K car. Can I interest you in a V8 R34 sedan? What a perfect daily! (or alternatively, just go for a full daily only car, there is joy to be had in just commuting around in a 2008 Hyundai Accent, I have found)

Near-Brand-New BNF24Z front Swaybar to fit a R33/R34 Skyline. I say near new, because I fitted it to my car and it didn't clear my sump (I have an engine conversion). It will easily clear any RB. It has some marks I would describe as "fitting marks" but otherwise that's the only use it got. Yes, it touched on the sump where the bit of tape is. It comes with a set of HD links which cost $185 new, though these ones are second hand. Given they're bolts, they definitely work as good as new, all things considered. It also comes with a fresh bush kit. All up Whiteline would want $440 for this, you can have it for $300. Much prefer Melb/local, will ship if _you_ organize it to be picked up and delivered to you.

The R35 set works in Sedans. I have a full set, all 4, there is a left hand R35 side and a right hand R35 side. You need 2 of each. The only things you will need are 4 nuts which are not included. It really does feel and work great.

What I want to do is the CTSV Brake swap. The 6 piston kits are incredible, the pad size is ridiculously bigger than the Attakd/KSport/G4/What have you kits. Plus they are OEM sized, OEM calipers etc. They make them for many USDM Nissan cars. Some of them are very VERY similar to R33/R34 to the point where one of the conversion kits would likely work with very minor modifications. https://ctsvbrakeswap.com/ Given there are kits for S15 and S15's can quite often use R34/R33 brakes as well, this should be minimal and should work. It's minimal in general by drilling out one bolt hole to be larger diameter which is about as hard as it generally gets.

The above list with todays prices is a solid guesstimate of 20-25ish K. Before labor. Labor is by far the most expensive part of a project. The only things you're missing that come to mind in my mind are, airbox? pod? something for the intake?. Not sure if the gearbox truly lines up, fits, maybe need an adapter of some sort, I know neither R31's or VL's You also need a clutch, which is another ~1k for something good/suitable/new You will find doing this research that your options for things like "VL injectors (or any second hand part)" could very will be 80% of the cost of some new injectors that are fit for purpose. You then get the fun decision of buying 30 year old, second hand parts or pay a little extra and get a nice, new, 0 year old part with better design. Apply this to any old second hand item. And they say, there's nothing more expensive than doing things cheap

The thing is, all the cars you see that work well, are money pits. Same as the ones that don't go well. I could say random comments like "If I sold mine for 70k, I'd have lost money on it" and this is when it was a 10k buy for the base car, back in the day. The reason its bad is because it is a 30 year old used engine that was not designed for boost. It's infront of a 30 year used gearbox that was not designed for boost. All in a car that has everything else, not designed for boost. Not really anyway, at the levels that people on the internet hold as an entry point for cool factor. Do you think the driveshafts, bushings, bearings, subframes are also not 30 year old items, not designed for boost? Do you have a $100,000 budget for this? Answer honestly. Because if you don't, and this is your first foray into cars and modifying, you will need that much, if you truly want it to do everything 'well' and look the part. If sentences like that make you think "oh jesus f**k no, agggh that is more than I bargained for" then what you really should do is a) Enjoy the car for what it is, an old cool retro ride that isn't really fast but isn't pretending to be b) Sell this to a collector or passion project guy who will do the above c) Take your $40,000 budget and consult a Subaru/BRZ dealer and buy the new GR86. It will kick the shit out of this project for livability, reliability, sanity, and will absolutely be a great platform to learn to wrench on cars going forward. You will love it equally as much as your R31. The truth is I cannot imagine any stock Skyline build in February 2022 that comes out cheaper than a brand new GR86 from a dealership, with a warranty! Any modified skyline project that you buy that has already been modified well also costs more than aforementioned new GR86/BRZ, with a warranty! Sorry, don't have a $40,000 budget at all? There's plenty of hot hatches out there that do a damn good job nowadays and for any road use make a damn lot more sense tbh, which is why you see so damn many of them. I am not having a go at a young guy who is excited by the world of car mods. We are all those at some point. This is sincere advice.

I wanted to say something along the lines of "That could have gone SOOOOOOOOOOOO much worse" but you never know how people react on the internet. I once found a set of pliers in my airbox I had lost for 18 months.

Please note that due to a case of COVID-19, the car museum is temporarily closed for about 2 weeks from Thursday 3 February 2022. We hope to reopen again soon, around Saturday 19 February 2022, but please check again closer to the date.

Shame, you should give up and buy mine instead, barely hear the engine? What kind of build is that. Why isn't it offensively loud until you drown it out with the stereo till the point you cannot use your rear vision mirror anymore? (but somehow quiet outside the car)

Effectively the same, but a spin dryer was what I was thinking of. I own a machine that doubles as a dryer and it vibrates considerably more on its dry cycle compared to its wash cycle lol. I have OEM Nissan mounts in my R34, and I feel the LS rumble noticeably when stopped through the seats, _BUT_ I believe I have a larger cam than @mlr. My only other experience were poly mounts with a SR20DET which definitely felt like sitting ontop of a washing machine/jackhammer at the lights, i.e it was shit.

Poly mounts on a LS1 should be... interesting.... for that 70's muscle car driving a clothes dryer feel at the lights

I say about mine, I can seat four full grown adults comfortably, and five uncomfortably. There's room for a child seat back there, but it's like calling an Evo a family car as well, or a Commodore etc (commo will have more room). Very different to a Carnival. There are practical reasons why people buy/bought CUV and SUV's, and the primary one is "I have to deal with kids and their associated shit"

I thought about posting mine in the N/A thread but thought it was a bit on the nose...

Measure barrel diameter. Attempt to get clearing barrel diameter from wheel manufacturer. My god its harder than it seems and massively, massively difficult, getting the barrel diameter, I mean. (I think the TE37 looks better too, tbh!)

The reliability at high power output stage was done when selecting the engine rebuild components which sounds like it's already been done. No matter how well it's built, the more power = burning the candle faster. There's no way around it other than making a catastrophic specification error where the candle snaps in half or explodes the first time you try and light it.

In these scenarios, I would call them and stay on the phone while they do it... "Hey I've been chasing this for months, I need it as some kind of proof when selling the vehicle - Can I wait on the phone while you do it, or call you at 10 mins before you shut up shop and you can just send it through? I've called a few times before etc.." Usually this will get a "Ah shit, yep, I remember now, yep hold on" kind of response where it gets done.

I mean cmon, other than the uh, lets just say _period correct_ gauge choices (i.e 2005) the rest of it is fine for a however year old car it is, being 30+ and you know actually driven. Little scuffs happen, you should see the state of every other Skyline actually used nowadays. Plenty of money in that engine bay too, also using mid 00's tech, which is still 15 years newer than the car is. Looking back at the mod list, I'm not surprised that it was once a demo car. Lets just take into consideration that an old demo car is still up and moving around in a world where most die.. young 😛 Bonnet clearly closes, it's closed at the start of the video Yes it looks like the compressor cover fouls, which again is likely due to its initial fitment being a demo car. Clearance it and send it 😛 One minor scratch in one guard, doors looked fine enough from a side glance. Scars are cool sometimes, they're made to be driven etc. Probably worth more than 80k usd tbh lol. You don't want a car you're scared to actually use!

What else did you think it'd do? It'll let heat OUT of the engine bay when you're idling/sitting but that is about it, at speed the pressure will force its way in. The vents to reduce heat are ones you see on GT3 style cars. The concept is you provide a good ol duct for the radiator at speed for it to the immediately exit, the reverse cowl would probably work if there was a duct from your radiator directly to it and out of the car but fitting that could be.... problematic....

Ye, this doesn't sound unreasonable for 30 seconds of work for some paperwork when selling a car...

This is likely because the IAT is at 50C by the time is even up to temp, so IAT is the lowest normal temp you experience. If you punched it at 30C you'd feel it!

You could also sell your supercharger, and go with an old school FMIC Centrifugal setup. That is what I would do if I ever went boost, which is also something I would never recommend. You know as well as me that power at low RPM is not an issue with a V8, and people talking 'low torque at low rpm so don't go centrifugal charger' in V8 forums don't know what that even begins to mean.. I _GUESS_ it makes more sense with crazy long gears, but in my application having stock power at 3k rpm and more boost from 3k onward is entirely, entirely usable as 3k RPM + 100% throttle = melted tyres even N/A, so adding more torque there is just... ????

It's not only timing pulling, it is the fact the air temp is 70C which is also a massive problem. I mean look at MCM's back to back test on dyno same day, 1 minute between runs. 50C IAT = 306kw 33C IAT = 332kw (settled to like 327 or so) IAT matters.