Kinkstaah

still haven't driven one huh

Such a good color man. Really looks the business. Edit: And wheel fitment. And the stubby exhaust. Just well done all round tbh. Awesome to see. So much better than a generic M4.

Funny enough the stuff I used (header armor) they specifically state it should only go along one side of the exhaust and it isn't a full wrap, it's more like a heat shield and supposedly this is also more effective. But still required things to come off, but yours may be very different given, well it's a different car and different headers, but it actually looks like the bay space is very similar to a skyline from other fitment photos I've seen. But expect pain nonetheless! Good idea to protect other engine sensitive things, but don't expect anything major in terms of heat, especially if you are changing some already-present heat protection? Expect to be whelmed with whatever reason this is being changed for...

Also worth mentioning "Removing the headers" is considered one of the most fked jobs in all of LS land, enough that a lot of LS owners, commodore or otherwise generally outsource it or take a day of labor to do it once they go from the OEM manifolds to long tubes etc. So if it seems like a complete f**k around, it's because it is and it's not anything being done wrong per se.

It's simple you silly head. I may have forgotten the LS ECU is natively in the engine bay, mine is all in the Nissan location.... Also when I installed the heat shield here -> https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-header-armor We had the headers off the car and the transmission out. And you know what, honestly it made pretty much jack shit difference to engine bay temps, my engine bay gets HOT still, but it was done in the idea of protecting leads and other things in the bay. We did the entire exhaust from headers to exhaust tip in the effort of reducing floor temperature and cabin temp. And when I think about it... it did actually work to some degree. This is less of an issue in a factory setup though. But the main part was to do the headers it was simpler to remove them from the car, fit the shielding, and put it back on again. Doing it in situation was really not plausible. Hope that help$!

Dying fuel pump #1? Surely not. I think this one failed the Turing test. Back to the lab boys.

I wonder how reliable a RB25, RB26 or SR20 is in stock form. I would wager it might last centuries.

It is relatively* straightforward. I have had to wire the standalone TCM and if you look at the modules, all of the wires that go into the NA's standalone TCM are labelled the same as the ones that go into the GTT's ecu. Same number of pins, same labels on all of them. As far as the wiring outputs and inputs go, they are the same for the GTT and the GT. In my example I was wiring them into a dedicated transmission controller that was external to the engine ECU, but as Haltech say it would not be impossible to wire them into an aftermarket engine ECU that has these outputs. That said, you can wire the NA auto into a GTT ECU and Nistune it given you do not have huge power goals. And again, all that said, all this time, effort, money and such is a waste because the car is about twice as enjoyable with a manual in it. You will regret spending the money and time on the auto. I promise. I'm only saying it now so I can say I told you so later. I need you to know this, so you will be like "fk, should have listened to that guy"

Plug and play was the requirement here. I don't know if the GTV gets the the turbo gearbox or the N/A gearbox. It'd matter, because a Nistune would/could work if it used the turbo auto box. All of this thinking should be dedicated to going manual though. Including all of the ECU budget and the turbo budget.

It is by far the best thing you can do. You pretty much have to, by the way. I can explain it in longer words if you like, but put the manual conversion BEFORE you consider a turbo kit in terms of "Things to do".

Only if you drive one first. If you then proceed to buy, please castrate yourself.

It could be, but I looked into someone who had AWD converted his Monaro and realised it'd be subframes and god knows what and manual gearboxes grafted to driveshafts and it became 'yeah nah' quickly. Though its probably possible with a mix of parts.

The clever way is what GTSBoy has suggested (as it often is) A GTFour with a RB25DET Neo drivetrain from a Stagea (i.e AWD) is the smarter way and likely better performing way than putting a RB26 in there instead. Doing it with a GT is just more work, to the point where asking what base car is kinda irrelevent lol. About the same difficulty as doing it with a 240Z or 350Z or Holden Commodore. (now I want to AWD convert my car ....wonder how viable that is)

Thankyou for my new existential dread about my R34.

They can of course be configured every which way (like any dyno) so if you're trying to compare to old mate competing dyno you can tailor it to suit, most of the regular hub dynos here in Melb at least read very similar to roller dynos. This is just going from same car on multiple dyno days with no changes etc. But ofc, given that - It's a tuning tool only, etc etc. Do a run on the same thing before and after for actual comparable results of any change blablabla.

Yep, 100% - But the Skyline and the LS are the 'old' style, which worked well for my purposes. By working... less well.

I have had to do this with the LS in my car - The alternator hits max RPM at 5000RPM stock, so the answer is a larger pulley to slow it down so it still provides charge up at redline. This is something you could feasibly calculate for your AC pulley, but would be a pretty big undertaking and would affect your AC ability at lower rpm. Keep in mind that the AC compressor only kicks on for a few seconds then switches off again (again, they never operate all the time). So it can switch on in hairpins and still provide the cooling it's supposed to if you time it right. Thats why I did the LS swap after all, I get low-down AC as well as low-down torque at 3000-4500rpm.

An AC compressor is not actually running all the time. Most OEMs will actually avoid the AC from 'kicking' on when you are under heavy load scenarios. The Haltech is mirroring this behaviour by default. I don't know the RPM limits of the AC compressor but I'd be damn suprised if it only hits its max compressor ability at 7000 RPM, because that is NOT a sacrifice most people would make when it comes to using Aircon, as most of the times you want aircon you are going to be in areas of the map under 6999RPM.

I have seen a car foul plugs mysteriously more than others, and it turned out to be the diaphragm in the FPR that had failed, sending fuel into the plenum into two cylinders specifically. Something mechanical has let go in the cylinder that is fouling. It would be very suprising to somehow make a tune that only fouls 1 cylinder unless you are playing with cylinder trims, which I don't think is very common on a powerFC. You need more data available to you. Is the problem spark related? Fuel related? You may need a dyno to figure this out.

I mean, you're removing seats to save weight. So adding something (anything) is counter productive after. I could see it for road car purposes though if the seats are useless and/or there's a cage there and you still want it to look nice and presentable. Still kinda defeats the purpose. That said, I have a mate with a 318ti (with a 2.8 in it) that has a rear seat delete and it just looks like a nice flat boot from the driver's seat back, and you open up the hatch and it looks like this. In this scenario I think it's ace lol.

Their webpage says this: "Quaife ATB Helical LSD differential is suitable for Nissan R200 280-300Z / 200SX models and fits both S13 & S14 with equal length drive flanges" To me this is the direct swapout for the existing Nissan helical, i.e the S chassis one?

There is for S15's though, and 350z's which are both swap options for R series skylines, and the only way to generally get a helical (of any type) into a R series.

But it's still locking... in both directions.... two ways, one might say.. but yes the .5 implies the locking is softer in one direction. Neither option was the pro version, so it wasn't configurable. The first one I posted did not chatter off throttle when going around a corner. Mine did chatter around corners off throttle. It drove me insane as to why when my housemate had the same diff and had no such troubles, until we took them apart to find out that they were not the same. Nismo label them as 1.5 and 2 (I checked) Its possible that when I bought my diff 2nd hand that the guy describing it as 1.5 way understood it the way I do (now) and expected locking on decel. It made sense to me that the diff shop found no issues in my 1.5 way diff because they saw the ramps and were like "Yeah this will also lock on decel" which makes sense. TLDR: When buying one of these, check the center if they are used, or buy the least locking option if you want to use it on the street. One of them is super okay, the other will drive you silly. I have a helical now and super happy lol. I don't think there's an option for a helical in a R33 unless you swap to the S15 subframe and use the S15 helical diff and axles. In which case I'd say put a Quaife in it. Noone does this.

In any case, here's the photos of the "1.5 way" from nismo's center. You can see that on decel, there is no lock, and accel there's a ramp there. And one of my "1.5 way" which clearly pushes in both directions. Which is an actual 1.5 way, but is also a 2 way, because a '1.5 way' is not a thing that exists. A keen eye will notice the ramps are different angles in my old one, so it's not a complete 2 way, hence its 1.... X way (not 1.5 1.8 or 1.3 or whatever) but VERY different on decel. Remember top one is labelled as a 1.5 way but has nothing on decel at all.

100% - Nismo only sell two items, and we had them side by side and opened them up to look at the center ramp rates. NISMO themselves label them as 1 way and 2 way, but everyone else referrs to them as 1.5 way and 2 way. The "1.5 way" has a 45 deg and 90 deg ramp face. 90 deg is an open diff, on deceleration the "1.5" way is entirely open. The 2 way has a 45 degree and a 60ish degree ramp face. So on deceleration it is partially locked, not as locked as it is when fully open. "1.5" way is a misnomer in itself. There can only ever be a 1 way, and anything other than a 1 way is a 2 way diff (because it locks up in... 2 ways, accel and deceleration) with differencing ramp rates to identify how harsh it locks in either direction.