Kinkstaah

Borg Warners on a level of their own when it comes to turbos. If you know you know. Nothing else should even be discussed. Don't even spend time using the brain cycles thinking about it.

The rears may actually fit, barely, but won't be in line with the guards. The fronts will absolutely smash about 25mm into your front struts 😛

Rolling fenders is pretty much a requirement for wheels to somewhat fit/look good/maximize tread. I wouldn't be surprised if it's required to do it on a 17x9 +22 for a R32. Rolling the guards is pretty much considered part of any fitment, and safe enough to assume it has been done/will be factored into any decision as to whether something fits. I have 18x9+30 on a R34, which has (a little?) wider guards and they are rolled, although I have most likely wider tyres on them. So therein lies my guesstimation about the R32 and wheels that sit 8mm further out.

I have very long hair and have been rocking a chopper mustache for movember.

.... sorry was that with the MT's or with a regular R888 tyre?

Nope. I read too much about the solenoid failing to do anything other than a manual lever to open/close it. You CAN get a cord even to pull in the cockpit to manually operate the lever for this, but I've not done that (yet?) I wager given LS's run 600,000kms or so, their cold start bearing wear must be of very minor concern given all the other concerns out there with cars.

I can confirm you can mount the big one at the back of the reo. Check my build thread for photos etc etc. As it stands I am too weak to corner hard enough for it to actually get used, but hey its nice it's there 😛

No, LS1 only has thermo fans available 😛 So yes, OEM level thermos often do work well and very often outperform expensive other fans. My AU thermo fan kit was a grand total of $50 and closely follows the dimensions of a skyline radiator. I have heard mondeo fans are even better, but I never needed to go that far. I used the clutch fan on my RB. Worked great even with no shroud. I have an accusump on the LS and the simplicity of the design stuns me that I never knew about them when I had a RB. Or any f**kin engine. I do not know why some system like that is not standard on any track focused vehicle.

This was pre-oil cooler on the RB! Post Oil cooler it sat at about 100C ish doing the same kind of hot laps. This was with the cooler in the driver side. Post change to LS I had the cooler in the passenger side, and noticed it actually cooled better there than in the drivers side. But I moved it back to the driver side due to my intake. Did 70 hot laps at Sandown and water stayed at 87 and oil was happy at about 105. With thermofansomg (but they are OEM AU ones). Utterly irrelevent to this discussion other than OEM VERY GOOD YES YES.

Oil temp on track will hit 150C in a lap or two. Or at least it did for me. So yeah, oil cooler pretty mandatory for track fun. 110C is the exact point the needle moves from "middle" to high in a R34. 109C is middle. So there is no 3/4 anything on a 34, but yes this thread is about a R33 so who knows whether that is accurate. OEM fan is best. Always. Nigh on impossible to break the OEM fans. OEM fan without shroud is still pretty much the 2nd best thing lol.

It is worth noting that the length of a 1 piece in a R34 is above what is considered terminal RPM at ~200ish kmh. Fine for the street. I got a custom 2 piece made. If you get one made of exotic materials you may be okay, but if you do that level of thinking get a 2 piece. Mine was $700. Remember that if you are doing a manual conversion you can just use stock manual tailshafts (or the one half that is different). All of the bearings and bushings can be replaced nowadays. Ignore the whole "you cant rebuild a 2 piece because some bits are not available" because they now are with a search.

I got off my butt and test fitted the bodykit that has been hanging around awhile. It will be months before I have enough coin to make that scary and expensive call to a body shop to actually fit it and paint it though. (any recommendations in vic heartily appreciated) Best way to watch Bathurst for the boganness of it too. The F1 was inside later, so you can all rest easy the car is not a permament living room replacement!

I got you fam Source: me doing what you doin. This is with limiter of 6600 and 265/35/r18 tyres, and a 4.08 rear. So, turns out it is 2123kmh at 1000kmh. The regular T56 6th gear is 1696kmh in 6th. Making before what I said a little fake news. Also I forgot it's auto, yet again. I also just realised that the numbers I pasted right now are a mix of 4.08 but the rpm at 100kmh is the 4.11 rear. Cause I clearly am not sure which one I actually have in my car cause it makes no difference unless you're doing it all in excel 😐 😐 😐 I find the ratios to be near on perfect - That said I bought the magnum for the 5th gear being shorter which makes a mental difference but testing it IRL and in simulators like assetto corsa showed actually no difference in pace 😛 ^--- also me

...... I have a 4.11 in mine, and a .63 6th instead of a .50. Even with these (relatively insanely) short gears, my 1000kmh idle is like 1800rpm. With the .50 it was 1600ish? With the rear ratios you are talking about, I don't know honestly why you don't get a 4cyl econobox and play V8 rumble through the speakers.

Really not that bad. See my other comments at "Daily driver/spirited nasho tyres". The RS4 is just priced better than anything else. The days where the RS4 was twice the price of a Federal/Nankang are sadly quite over, making the Hankook just the bang for buck champion. Yokos tend to grip better as they age, and will grip down to the cords, but this is an impression with no hard data that I have ever really seen. The tread life in kms is the same for me (AD08R vs RS3/RS4) making the AD08R just twice as expensive for literally no benefit.

Coupe and sedan are identical. They are identical cars mechanically (R34 coupe and R34 sedan) with the only exception being the exhaust. R33 GTST brakes and suspension will fit on a R34 NA. I do not know whether there's realistically any damping differences in some companies setup but I HEAVILY doubt there would be, if looking at something like a R33 GTST BC coilover and a R34 NA BC coilover, or a R34 GTT BC coilover for example.

In my case it's cost. I don't have the funds/space to buy two sets of rims and have them sitting around like the pair of drag tyres/rims I already have sitting around. The idea is you have one set of tyres for road AND track duties. No it's not as good as either. As as result, you can scoff and disregard people who R comps as "ah yeah track only tyres" and feel smug about your street car. In the future I will most likely do what you say honestly. 80TW or R comp (cup 2 etc something) for track tyres, and a 300 treadwear good-ish road tyre. Like a Bridgestone RE003 or NS2 or something like that. Truth of the matter is even RS4/AD08R's only really start gripping up at tyre temps at 80C+ Can't really see/admit to ever pushing hard enough on the street where I need to drop pressures and get tyre temp up that much - So they aren't even operating as designed on the street anyway, and I always wondered if a softer tyre that grips better at 50C actually provides more total grip than a UHP/200TW tyre at 50C does when it's out of its temperature windows, AND then its pressure window if you DO get it up to 80C.

So, I did a track day. Here's the photos of all the other cool stuff that was there that day. https://www.facebook.com/media/set?vanity=rcpicsmelb&set=a.187556910319041 I totally did some track day tuning with the laptop, which was actually quite beneficial as you can't get better datalogging than actually going down Sandown main straight instead of a dyno 😛 Only thing that 'broke' was the PS fluid got a bit hot due to heavy sustained RPM which is a pretty known issue in pretty much any car ever, I may look into an Astra electric/hydraulic power steering conversion for this purpose, as a PS fluid soaked sock is not really ideal in my engine bay, though it wasn't really even too soaked. Perhaps cool down laps are in order for PS given everything else was fine. 75+ hot laps. Car sounds the same coming out the way it did, but that horrible lifter clacking noise is still present, so I may take it to wiser minds to have the heads pulled off to get it investigated once and for all. I stupidly deleted my Trackaddict data and I was very slow around the track because my body is not used to G forces, so I only have unedited, un-timed gopro video available. But it has V8 noises and the misfires are from traction control kicking in. Some of the "There's just no grip" was rain and cold/greasy conditions, and part was me being scared. Anywho, here is aforementioned v8 noises, now with all natural pops and bangs baby. (i.e not tuned for them)

Is the car not loud enough already or

No road tyre is worth it. No 17in drag radial will compete with a 15 one with more sidewall. Just wear different rims front rear at the drags. There's the reason everyone does it. Driving on the road with drag radials is shit anyway, unless you are doing massive launches at every stop, they are really only good for launches, and detrimental everywhere else. Going on a cruise with corners in it I would really advise against running a DR on the rear and a regular tyre at the front.

Also if you're gonna do that, buying new rims, go 15's or something for more sidewall.

2 step is.. just a limiter while the car is not moving 😛

Believe it or not, this actually did sell to a guy from work (of all places) about a week ago after being up for most of the year. Get the full kit I say, the rear is also very useful/effective!

Just make sure if you get a harness you get a HANS. Then there's all sorts of extra things to consider like a helmet net and proper collared seat and etcccccccccccc. Just adding 1 can be less safe than adding 0, but I am sure you know that already.

So does trackaddict, though I would suspect RaceChrono paid (which I also have) does well, but trackaddict also overlays OBD2 data from the car if you want that too. Maybe Racechrono does. Point being, get it setup right and all you have to do is hit 'record' and your video and telemetry gets synced and life is good. Will see how well this all works for me on sept 2