Kinkstaah

Or buy my car. That said, I don't think I'd sell, because I know what it'd take to do it again. Really you're buying/building a complete car from scratch that just happens to have the body you like. It is never 'worth it'. It is far more sensible to sell it as is, then go buy a Mustang. MUCH easier, and cheaper too.

Road car, Borg Warner is the only answer. Anyone who thinks anything responds great has not felt the transient differences that That Ti-Al wheel provides. The turbo is the single most important part of anything. The right turbo will have much more effect than going from 2.6 to 2.8L.

Great! So this is a 355/350 kit with Nissan OEM bolting onto my R34 with all of the pad options that an OEM car can provide instead of Attakd/G4/Ksport (which are all slightly different) trying to cross reference fkin everything. With OEM dust boots. In other words, exactly what I was hoping for! Do the calipers cost 10K+ like R35 GTR ones?

Is a R35 GTR BBK still a 15K adventure? Are there cheaper options available for this as an aside? After looking for replacement pads for my kit - OEM BBK's for pad selection seem great blah blah blah. Are there any other options?

Surely something tripping a 150AMP relay is a short somewhere?

So uh, what's your IACV doing? Given the OEM one is connected to the back of the OEM intake manifold.

No, I am just lamenting that I do not know the way of bleeding a R34 GTT ABS system. So I... don't, and find out about it when I activate ABS 😛

Do what I do, which is bleed the brakes awesomely then go to the track and hit ABS a couple of times and enjoy the rest of the day with a spongey yet ....mostly effective pedal.

I'd argue its possible. People have made 450KW on a GTX3076, and a G25-660. G30-770 could get there. Especially if you do things like delete VCT for big cams to keep boost up at 8000rpm.... But max effort there reduces overall goodness at least in my opinion.

Yes, but 450kw at the wheels and street only car is also... pretty shit. VCT gives you two cam profiles. One aimed at low down power, and a switchover for high RPM power. You literally get the best of both worlds. Removing VCT and choosing a bigger cam is really just doubling down on High RPM Power. If you drive the car at 5000-8000rpm all the time, No VCT and bigger cams make sense. But 100% of engine running and 5000-8000rpm is obviously at a track. AVERAGE power is better than peak power. Really, you want power where your RPM needle is at the majority of the time for a fast car, a G30-770 will be a pretty good turbo with modern tech - you're going to like it either way, but I think the 'better overall car' is with VCT and stock cams (maybe poncams). Is it worth the money? For what you want the car for? Eh probably not. There's value in just not worrying about it and driving the car for what it is. But I'll say it again, a car that makes 435kw and comes on 1000+rpm earlier and has a much fatter midrange is much better than a car that makes 450kw where that 15kw advantage only exists at 7001+ RPM.

"Babe I want to run 126psi on your daily in the driveway, a guy on the internet said it was fine" (fn2r good car do agree)

The R33 GTR is the best looking skyline. I still regret missing out on a Gunmetal one, but my views are heretical at best sometimes.

tbh if I had a 33 I would be putting a GTR bodykit on it. There's merit in OEM plastic and steel over fibreglass etc etc etc. I never was able to find rear guards for a R33 GTST-> GTR conversion mind you, but as I do not have a R33 this is quite a minor issue for me personally 😛

People either ditch power steering and keep the starter where it is, or go left hand starter. In my car I have power steering and went left hand starter. It's a r34 but I would wager the problem is the same. If you get the mal wood left hand kit (which comes with a brand new starter) they will send you two spacers for your clutch actuation to account for the size of the plate. Use both. I used one and my clutch was never disengaging when pedal full down, which resulted in quite the explosion one day at the track. 😛

I mean, I didn't drive your car and I am no expert track driver myself, but watching the video makes me think that car handles like an absolute uncontrollable bucket of shit. I know you've drifted it, but if my 34 sedan started behaving like that it would have ended up on it's roof about five times trying to go around a corner with my hamfisted driving. That exit onto the main straight should absolutely not be a mission like that, in any car ever. It's not only rear grip being the issue there. This is an alarming set of tyres at the very least as mentioned.

..... also get the rear swaybar. You would be stunned how much difference it makes with regards to turn in. I'm really surprised you didn't have one already from drift duties!

People remove it for simplicity and realistically... room. If you're adding stuff out there, real estate is a limited budget and the function of this device is minimal at best. Especially for people who have 500kw and want an oil cooler. Supposedly they fail but it doesn't actually seem to happen that often. It's primarily because the space and simplicity given people are usually adding sensors, -AN lines in the area that used to be occupied by that HX.

Thats the thing, and I hope you're pre-cognizantly done this right because... The NA and GTT boxes have different electronics, the NA has an external transmission control unit, and the GTT has it built into the engine ECU. But you have a GT-X, which has various GTT bits in a NA platform. (or at least a NA engine). Does it get the GTT gearbox? Does the GT-X only have GTT brakes? I'm not sure if this knowledge still exists, so you may find that the GTT box works perfectly, or is utterly unusable depending on these variables. If you're morbidly curious you could check the build plate on the firewall. The GTT box is a RE401B, and the GT box is a RE401A, but that still doesn't actually say whether just swapping them in will work fine or not. The summary I got from the auto transmission specialists who post-mortemmed my GT box and built a GTT box for me more or less said it was "Entirely different" inside, chalk and cheese/much stronger/not a suprise the GT box died, nothing was going to keep it alive, with no specific documentation. I could regugitate words from a decade ago. Bands? Planetary gears? Locking clutches? Supposedly all better. It's what you want, but even the GTT box is a sad dissapointment. You could go nuts and install a BMW DCT in there if you want a decent Auto skyline, or burn the thing and buy an Auto Mustang 😛 (or any of the turbo euro cars with a DCT)

I'm not entirely sure - I had gauges before I changed any of the OEM oil cooling/radiator setups. They are designed as road cars remember. Coolant was really never an issue. Before or after I replaced the radiator (because I did it when it cracked). If you go out and track the car with nothing, but you have gauges, the coolant temp will sit at 80-90C as you would expect, and your oil will be 150C in short order. Whatever happens, the temperature is definitely not equalized between the systems, even if they do transfer some element of it. I think as mentioned it's more likely designed to get things up to efficient temperatures (warm things, warm both things equally) rather than being a radiator. Then again, it does have cooling fins on it and a radiator of some kind... I mean someone could go out and test it but the effort in doing so is more than simply fitting a cooler and having... better cooling. I saw a teardown recently of a Subaru motor where the oil never got to temp and the engine was running E85. That was quite gory, so getting the oil up to 100C to boil off condensation is also really important. Almost like fluids are designed to operate in temperature windows and too cold is a problem as much as too hot is!

Head gaskets can fail and allow combustion gas and coolant to mix. Or combustion gas and Oil, I suppose. It's not only water and oil. Your engine being fed a constant stream of coolant into its combustion chamber can absolutely cause a misfire. Infact that is how I know I cracked my block multiple times because the coolant channel on a RB is closest to the chamber. It would misfire at idle (water going into cylinder), then not misfire when cylinder pressure exceeded the coolant pressure. (combustion pressure pushing into coolant system). You could check this by looking for residue in your radiator. But as mentioned, Someone who has physically seen the car has looked into it already and thinks it's a head gasket. The giveaway is the fact all of these problems seem to be on .. one side? Yes this is a VQ, but a gasket fail can happen in any combination. It depends on what things are combining that are best left seperate. It could be multiple things, but all of these "things" outside the engine internals are a) Radiator b) Thermostat (the engine will not overheat by the way if stuck OPEN) Anything else and you're pulling the motor apart to find/fix.

In this case it was literally a friend who invited me into a Whatsapp group of a bunch of pre-existing guys going for said drive. I think that they generally keep these things small, as you would have noticed, MOST cruises or drives are far shorter and far less spirited, or entirely stuck in a carpark somewhere. The alternator was fixed by "A guy I know" from my Older Italian Mechanic contact. I have no further details as to what actually failed, but I wired in the needed resistor and reinstalled it and I now have 14.1V and life is good again. I also finally got new tyres installed, which actually work as well, with another alignment, which actually makes the car drive straight. I also finally (after 10+ years) figured out how the glovebox is supposed to bolt in, realising I had either being ziptying or ignoring the bottom most hole, thinking something was missing. Turns out there's a metal bracket there, with the same thread as the rest of the screws for the glovebox. So that is also up and running as Mr Nissan intended. Also hammered the hole in the exhaust shut. Brakes still get juddery, but it's proably more the fact of the pad not actually fitting the caliper properly. I plan on living with it because... most of the time driving around it is fine. Who really needs a pad to fit into a caliper properly anyway?

Yep, this is just one of those things where people mod the car based on what the internet says, and NOT in an order of "I drive car hard and this is what it needs-order". We've all been there. I would also argue that 250kw is faster than 500kw through the hills, with all the other benefits that has. Roll racing is another story obviously. But you could still save money on power and roll up on drag radials (yes even from a roll) and you'll beat your friends and save money 😛

Ye, I think there's a fundamental difference between augmenting sound for the driver... and augmenting sound for people outside the car... I can totally see running a tube from the intake through the firewall that you could open/close. Saw a good video on a guy doing it for a supercharged mustang. Could see people (Dose) doing this for turbo sounds.

If your car is primarily road, or really _any_ road, get the Nismo 1 way over the 2 way. Clunking 24/7 with the 2 way is really quite bleh. I know the thread says "1.5 way" but there's really no such thing as a "1.5 way". It's just a 2 way with less aggressive lock on the deceleration ramp. There's still quite aggressive lock on the deceleration ramp, enough to have 100% of passengers in your car go "Hey man what's broken with your car lol"

Aftermarket speakers for mufflers. We're finally here.