Kinkstaah

It's beyond saving. Convert to E90 drift car.

The only decent road worth driving is Mountain Highway. The rest of the roads are legitimately too shit to even do anything on, in any car.

That is slower, less fun, and less reliable in every single way.. not to mention much more expensive.

I still don't know how this works. When I fill up my car, I crack open the fuel tank filler cap and I hear hissing, which I assume is air filling up the gas tank as I release what is now a vacuum of sorts due to the fuel level being depleted while sealed. Is this normal? If something is fked, should I just notquitetotallybedoingmyfuelcap all the way? Nobody ever seems to know the answer.

Technically at the the racetrack the fan should be off given how much air is flowing through the front of the car but like yeaaaaaaa.

Drove through a booze bus today, Cop was all "Does that have a 25 Neo in it?" Said "Oh no, it has a LS" and opened the door and pointed to Engineering plate and told him it was all above board officer. I got a solid thumbs up. no RB can have that peace of mind! 😛

Yep. I am of similar thinking. Imagine how shit or off the rails your day has gone for you to dial 000 for Fire, Ambo, or Police. That's their entire work day. Every single day.

I would say it's probably not fine at all. This is one of those things where when you open a laptop and notice your load source is at 0.0PSI and you know that is absolutely not possible with the engine running and idling that you go and find out why because anything else you do will not function. If the car is still running, well, it's as damaged (or undamaged) as it can be. It all comes down to how close your ... 0PSI and (???) RPM load cell is tuned relative to the conditions the car was running in. Which is .... abysmal. Cars do not have a 1x1 load map. Who knows what the timing is set at 0psi and (???) rpm. Maybe the tacho is correct and it was going up and down in the 0psi table. There's quite a lot of documentation on the Haltech end, I would advise reading it if not done already because tuning is fun. But you gotta make sure what the ECU is seeing is what is actually occurring in the motor or expensive metal sadness will result in short order.

It is subjective! FWIW I am on the fence about bad idling and V8's literally running like shit at idle. 😛 I much prefer an equal length header LS1 if packaging allows and a nice smooth idle... I suppose yes, cars run no bov before they were invented. Not having a bov for the original items list for OP is at least period correct. As is the T51. Now all we need is some frosted tips, and white rimmed oakleys and go full 2006.

Just so we're clear, we're talking about that sound that you get when you back off a turbo or supercharger without any kind of release valve? That sounds broken to me. Because it is, in the applications that it is used. You like it, to me it sounds like someone is driving around with rod knock and thinking it sounds sick because... it's ... broken-sounding?

See also: Dose. "Hey man make my car sound broken cause it is"

Sorry when I said 'defective' I didn't mean "get defected" I mean broken, working improperly. Literally sounds like a car running bad because it is a car running bad... whats next, making the car sound like it's spun rod bearings for clout?

Nothing sounds as good as obviously defective car setup huh.

The un-fun answer is: You aren't really ready for the build you want yet. You may make it there, but, it's not a build you would want to actually have in 2022. Save up, there are no shortcuts for repeatable, reliable performance. Almost all of these items are shortcuts, or not required at all. Because if I hit submit reply at this point it'll seem unhelpful so: Outdated/At their absolute limit (which is never great) Nistune with Zeitronix flex fuel sensor wiring hardwired into it zeitronix e85 ethanol content analyser kit Used original z32 AFM You would be at the extreme upper limit of this setup with that power. Be smarter. I know you said you didn't have the cash but: turbosmart fuel pressure regulator fpr800 plazmaman fuel rail (top feed i think like stock) Both of these are not needed at ALL. Sell them. Buy better engine management. Garrett GT3076R T3 .82 v band rear shitty stainless steel exhaust manifold i may or may not use Don't use either of these. The turbo is the only power adder a turbo engine has. Any $ spent on a quality turbo is ALWAYS WORTH IT. EVERY TIME. Your performance lives or dies on your turbo. This one has had its day. You will not want it in there, eventually. You also will not want a shitty manifold doing the very critical job of feeding it air. These you can keep/use: Turbosmart 45mm wastegate hypergate gen V Walbro 535 fuel pump bosch 1000c injectors static flow plazmaman 600x300x76 bar and plate intercooler(rated up to 800hp) You could arguably find injectors or a more suitable intercooler depending on brand loyalty etc. If you already have these parts, proceed to UN-have them, unless you are going to be happy installing them/paying for them to be installed and have a literally below average result. The poor man pays twice. Other: Other misc like MLS gaskets, exhaust wrap, turbo oil and water lines etc The best part about an unopened engine is the fact is unopened. Do not change gaskets you do not need yet. Leave the Nissan in. That said, if you ignore all of this tbh you will likely land with a pretty usable, reliable 320kw setup. Which will actually last reasonably well and still be a fun car. But it could be a lot better, you just may never realise it.

I am sorry, antilag is not part of the 'Sensible 300kw package'.

Rebirthing is what. Fixing cars? Once it's fixed and accredited/engineered/what have you the thing should be off the WOVR with a status of repaired and that should be the end of it. Keeping receipts for a f**kin control arm for 15 years is f**ktarded.

Nah that was just how it sat. At the time I got it to find out how heavy they are, how heavy the LS swap was, and to give the information to Bilstein with regards to revalving shocks and such. I get too OCD about the car being lower at one side than the other so I preferred that over optimal weight. The engineer who was doing the engineering (and the weighting) seemed really happy with the balance by default so I more or less figured it was close enough 😛 I did ask hiim at the time if he had weighed any other cars but the numbers were kinda varying. He had everything from stripped out (I mean STRIPPED) out R32gtst's weighing 1200kg, and things like R33/34 GTR's weighing 1900KG. Of course, no R34 GTT stock sedans. The BMW seats I have (and their adaptors) are also heavy. I was just curious as to how much the weight difference is, but obviously not curious enough to test the car before and after. It does appear to have moved a little bit of that weight back so, yay? Or perhaps thats just a 34 thing.

It is violently hard in NSW and VIC. If it is on the WOVR, you need the official list of damages that put it into the WOVR, AND an itemized receipt for this work being carried out to make it "OK" again and registerable. This list must follow every buyer, every time it changes hands, even if the damage that put it on the WOVR, and the subsequent fix happened 10 years and 3 owners ago. If the seller does not have this information, that you can verify is enough - don't buy the car and the owner will have a very hard time ever selling it. Yes it's dumb. Once it's fixed, satisfactorily it should be removed from the WOVR. It is after all, a repairable write off.

Was actually interesting, I assumed the cross of 49.4% wasn't bad for literally no effort in my case. Maybe it is actually better stock! I figured you weren't in the car for your weights. Guess the 34 sedan is a fat pig after all, or at least mine is with its massive cast wheels and all that other stuff I now am self concious of. This is with me sitting in it, which somehow makes the balance go from 49.4 to 49.75. Clearly the secret to corner weighting in my setup is just to eat some more pies. Went to Country Cob bakery yesterday, enjoyed https://countrycobbakery.com.au/collections/beef-pies/products/slow-cook-bbq-beef-with-mac-cheese Perhaps this is a better plan going forward.

Just testament really that shows a ~320kw setup with everything within tolerances will run nearly 'forever' and just work out of the box with minimal gripes, or as minimal as possible. Finally someone posted some weights, it is interesting to see the R33 and R34 pretty similar, and fairly balanced too. My car had a full tank of gas, spare in the boot, seats in it, ~10+kg of tools, sub, amp etc. Full road going setup when I weighed mine but: Your Weight/My Weight FR :450/422 FL :428/425 RR :328/344 RL : 305/329 They are pretty balanced out of the box. Now that I look over my one again I've moved my oil cooler from FR to FL since then, which would make it I could then move my battery from FR to RL... making the whole thing 410/422 - 344/344 (assuming battery and oil cooler both weigh 15kg). But I mean hey, it goes to show that spending all this time overthinking weight distribution, and swapping a V8 into a car is not even close to worth the time, compared to simply being reasonable to begin with and enjoying the car in its maximum fun/performance ratio. Good job being the gold standard 😛

Nahhhh in my case I distinctly got a R33 gearbox conversion back in the day, and the brake pedal from a 34 as the auto pedal went in the bin. I kinda wish I still had the chunky auto pedal now for extreme ease for heel/toe but... well not enough to buy an auto pedal. I think it's DOABLE but holy shit is it forever hard. Even with whittling I can see that it just wasn't going to fit without some really funky things like melting the rubber with a heat gun or manipulating it EXTENSIVELY (for hours and hours and hours) to the point where it is not as firm anymore and more pliable. Taking the pedals out to fit them would be extremely recommended. And yes, TBH there's still not much I would replace it with. I see C5's coming down in price and are now importable, and obviously need no bodykit to be fitted to fit wide tyres, but I don't actually think I can justify replacing what I have with a car full of unknowns. I may rant about this 34 - But I know where every bolt is, the condition of every item, refreshed literally everything, and how to remove/replace everything and source parts, the list goes on. Probably simpler to paint it and be the sleeper at the track nobody expects, then be a vette everyone wants to pass to prove themselves. That said: GR Yaris also exist. The times they put down at SMSP and other places is unreal, and AWD is just such a good thing to have in any time you don't have perfect grip on a perfectly flat surface with slicks. I.e all the time. I do regret not putting it up for 69,420 though. I guess I can drop the price once and set it there. But like mentioned, there's a very good chance I won't actually sell it even if somebody rolled around with it. It'd be weird seeing it driving around with someone else behind the wheel, or on someone's instagram or at the track. That said, everyone who's ever sold a car ever does kind of get over that in time, I'm sure I would too. At least I'm not wanting to buy a M2 or M4.

Nothing much has changed, because I decided to upgrade my gaming machine instead of buy car parts for awhile, plus I do not know who to go for for paint. If I had the money, which I don't. But still, who will paint the above bodykit? Any recommendations? I would actually conceivably even go interstate to NSW or SA for the right work/price if they were reputable, did the job right/fast/no f**kery. Also flirting with selling the car entirely, and buying something that doesn't 'need' a bodykit. Which would require someone to pay silly prices, and for me to send all this history to the shadow realm, neither of which is that likely. I am very much the guy who tries to take the starter car in NFS all the way to the end. Tested my tune with my new IAT sensor, found out that GM/HPTuners do not calculate pulling fuel for rising IAT. My 6600RPM/Full throttle tune at the track had 12.8 AFR at 7.0ms injector pulse. The other day the IAT was 40-45C and was deciding to pulse at about 6.2ms. Which was about 14.4 AFR. Which is less than ideal. My ECU now believes any temperature over 14C is 14C, so I will run comfortably rich in such a scenario. If it's WAY rich (which I doubt) I can always change how the temperature is sensed. Not really the way to do it, but I cannot alter the relationship between air temperature and how much fuel is pulled with regards to air density. So much for seeing how well my car ran in the warm temperatures, as I thought so many things could be f**ked like.. down a cylinder, fuel pump messy, fuel filter clogged, god knows what. Also noticed a terrible sound coming from the diff. Like someone had shoved a metal rod in between spokes of a bike. Speed dependent. Very un-fun. Given my car stank like diff fluid at the track the other month, I thought perhaps there wasn't enough oil in it. Pulled over, hmmmed awhile, decided to drive home as far as possible off any kind of load to avoid leaning out or the diff exploding too severely, though it made much less noise when I wasn't driving uphill. (hence thinking oil level) I also noticed this. Which is fine, my 34 used to have all alloy pedals back in auto land. And the foot insert! But clearly during manual conversion back in the day it got 33 items. But then I thought sure, why not. Let me tell you, that the brake pedal was an absolute utter asshole to fit, but actually did fit in the end with a f**kton of swearing. My pedal has R34 written on it so I assume it's for a R34. It fit. These pedal covers claim to fit a variety of vehicles as you can tell from the URL. https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/sports-pedal-aluminium-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-25gt-25gt-25gt-p-63.html "Genuine Nissan Aluminium Sports Pedal Set to suit Nissan Skyline R33 GTR / GTS25 / GTS25-t / GTS-4 & R34 25GT / 25GT-4 / 25GT-t / GT-V." So you'd think it would be fine if you say, had a R33 clutch pedal. Well let me tell you, that can go and get f**ked and if you ever buy these and want to fit them, be prepared to whittle the rubber insert for the clutch pedal for HOURS and swear your head off at WHY WONT IT f**kING FIT and then giving up and whittling it away, then securing the top part, making an outline so it kinda presses on, then using a very generous dab of sikaflex onto the metal pedal between the cover and the pedal itself. Because it sure as f**k won't fit any other way. But like yea tho. The diff problem was a torn exhaust hanger. Which I noticed when I went to fill the diff up with some spare gear oil while waiting for heavy shockproof to arrive. These are made of Polyurethane. So they should be strong! Which means I am SURE THEY WILL BE FUN TO FIT, given the rubber one I replaced (I had one spare, connected to nothing...) required a f**k ton of swearing and stretching and such to replace. These poly ones will surely just go right on and not remind me of that pedal install at all. Surely.

Use a bigger turbo. Spin it less hard. People overdriving turbos does not make it a good turbo selection, nor a good plan. I can run 200psi boost too and make tons of power, is that what we should recommend then 😛

If it doesn't have a Ti-al wheel then everything else can be ignored. Yes, more manufacturers should use better materials. It makes so much of a difference in the real world that I just cry when people spend money on turbos without doing proper research. The only other variable is packaging, but if you physically can't fit a huge turbo somewhere, you are well outside of the "Street car" category.

I have a bissel thingy but yet to actually try it on car, or carpets. Not really sure why as I recently cleaned the car.. and carpets. Could use it on door inserts too. Pretty easy to remove the rear seat out of the car too. In short, I have been lazy. Thankyou for mentioning this vaccum brake bleeder thing, now that I know that exists my life is 4% improved.