Kinkstaah

Mine is similar, but I did find you can dynamically adjust it during the year and pay more/adjust the payment if you like. Or lower it in your case

You're thinking too conservative. Hit up Gumtree and find someone else's used rear pair. You want 16 or 15in with a nice big meaty sidewall that you swap when you get to the track. For luls, do one run on the street tyres so you can go LOL WHOA THIS IS SO MUCH BETTER on things like MT ET Streets.

Tbh while I've used both, the AD08R left a bit of a bad taste in my mouth through the 2-3 sets I've used. I know the RS4 doesn't tend to cycle as well, while the 08R is basically as-new until cords, but when they cost 50% more and may offer 0.5% more better performance (though they lose most direct tests - maybe when RS4 is ultra brand new) for 0 more longevity I can't help but just feel they're overpriced for what they are. If money was no object I'd get them, but tbh if money was no object I'd probably daily pilot sport cup 2's 😛

He's right, the R888R is really for circuit stuff which is not what this is for.... You need a huge, pliable sidewall for drag. No track tyre is worth putting on, to the degree it's not worth going to the drags without them in your (or my) scenario.

Its funny, I have sworn the exact opposite, the AD08R has been dead to me for a long while in a world where a RS4 exists. Maybe the AD09 will sway the balance again! I'll let you decide.

I spoke to them to get a custom swaybar made up. They were excellent to deal with. I can't speak to the quality of their other items but I would definitely go back again as they definitely know what's up when it comes to the R34 based on my phone discussions with them.

They don't come up often in good nick because, well, they're bad, man... At some point old school is just old.

Yes and no - What else out there exists that feels the same, and isn't watered down my modernity which surely crossed a threshhold somewhere. The big contender would be the new 86 when IT depreciates, or a V8 mustang when IT depreciates, or a GRY when IT depreciates but having done the math on those extensively, they all require (or one could easily spend) another 30K+ ontop of the purchase price to really get track ready with all the stuff I'd want to do with them. Even a 30k amazing base car with 30k of mods is going to be a better experience for a 'drivers car that can go to the track reliably' than a car that is base 60k now in 2022. The gap is closer but it's still not close. It's not like a base R33 is 30K and a Lotus Exige S is 35K etc.

I would too, tbh. It (and mine) is a realistic and thorough viewpoint on Skyline ownership. There's nothing hidden and I think it's far more realistic to understand what you get into. "Good" skylines never start out that way. Pretty much no tuner car ever does. You spend $X to get the thing, and then $X x2 or 3 in R&D and really finding out what you want to do with it. However the view that's always been out there, is you get the end result for the initial price. Not so. Uh, unless you buy a completed project.

I hear the purple one had an engine problem. In all seriousness, picking up someone's project is a smart thing to do IF you can verify it's decent'ness.

I keep telling you to buy my V8 Sedan that drives better than any M3. Admit it, you're just a badge snob!

I drove a M3 Comp sedan and was gobsmacked as to how anyone could refer to it as an enthusiast car.

Car still going entirely the same. One thing I noticed is mysterious diff sound disappears at 100kmh. Reminds me of all the other times I suspected diff/bearings/something weird when my semi slicks reached end of life, for me to replace them and go OHH LOLZ IT WAS THE TYRES. This has happened three times. Like all skyline users, I carry tools with me in the car. I used to keep them behind the driver and passenger seat, but this became lame when I had people in the back. So I thought I should make a place in the boot for them. I experimented by bolting bits of wood to my boot floor/pan/thing (which itself is a piece of wood I got made ages ago). Unfortunately these weren't high enough and one toolbox kept on sliding around. I explained this issue to my mate who had a boxed section of aluminium and this is what happened after we moved the boxes to the left, for better weight distribution obviously. I then found a use for all those stickers one gets after many years of car modding: Figured gotta put them somewhere.. Also this happened: So I guess that pro company that rebuilt these for me and treated them didn't quite hold up. We tried to dry it out with hairdryers for hours hoping that whatever hole was in there would let the vapor out. It didn't. I am now searching for a dehydrator oven to put this thing into, then sealing it up...

That video sounded really fkin awesome until it started sounding very very bad

I assure you it is utterly invisible to all things, car enthusiasts, police, random onlookers, it may as well be a camry, there's been 3 track days where a photographer has gone and taken shots of every single entrant except my car... different photographers too.. I assure you it is invisible lol. That said - It won't provide whatever it is you like about a M3 but you really really really must drive whatever you want to buy in anger in the hills or at the track first. It needs to spark joy, please don't make decisions based on what you think will provide joy until you do it. So many people have sold their R chassis or S chassis and bought something then gone "ah f**k"

Can I interest you in a LS swapped R34 Sedan? I assure you it is boring as hell but considerably more everything to drive than a current M3 comp. (it is also completely and utterly invisible) Drive a M3, then Buy a Golf R. Or a GR Yaris or something. Or a GR Supra or something. The M3 is not an enthusiast vehicle. It is a more-capable-than-you-expect luxury car devoid of feeling.

So have you driven one yet? Why do you even want a M3? It does nothing better (incl reliability and cost) than your current vehicle for spirited driving. It is all downsides. Please explain.

I have done a little of this with my gf's civic type R where they have some bad solder joins on the main display thingy those cars have. This issue is popping up more and more frequently from people on FB with R34's with the whole minute thing going nuts, so it would be well worth investigating next time someone has this issue. I haven't had this issue. but I am mentally preparing for that day when it comes...

Drive it first, then make a decision.

Yep that's the plan, though I personally don't _know_ if it needs to be dealt with. There's a very local very mobile diff guy right near me whom other people have had great reviews on, so it may get a look there at some point given every other drivetrain piece is literally completely new, or under 15,000kms for things like ... lifelong bushes. Given it's a R34 Series 2 Helical diff though, I'm hesitant to buy parts yet as I'm sure it's all mysteriously different and slightly unusual compared to any other R200 - Either that or it's exactly the same.... decent forwarning will be made to said diff man.

I got mine from Kudos Motorsports - They are pretty awesome to deal with as well

And for the diff lovers or haters out there, here is some of the diff noise (???) I found when the mic was either inside the car, or inside the boot. The sound gets louder as it's different clips smashed together, two instances in each file. At all times I was pretty much cruising along in 5-6th gear at 80-100kmh where it is most noticeable. I would have _thought_ I would hear this with the mic outside the car on the rear bumper but apparently not. It disappears or strongly dissipates when clutched/off throttle in and appears to be speed dependent, i.e there's next to no noise at 60kmh or under. Whine.wav WhineBoot.wav Diff? Clutching in does stop the noise, but that is also disconnecting load from it. At higher RPM I can't be sure, as the engine drowns out the noise. It could also be T56 gear rollover. tbh I have nfi whatsoever. FWIW, first file is from the back seats, second file is with the mic inside the boot. Edit: 5 seconds of googling I found this: In other words, I'm pretty confident my OEM Helical diff's bearings have the same problem as shown in the above video lol.

I purchased these, but due to a wedding which necessitated a road trip to Adelaide, a pet emergency (which cost $10k, but some things are worth this coin) and a house extension, I didn't get around to this until today. I tested on the bumper, inside the car, and inside the boot. Other than hearing mysteriously diffy noises from inside the car and inside the boot, the ones on the bumper are here for review, in the location that old mate in the previous link said. BUMPER123_220406_0475.wav BUMPER123_2_220406_0477.wav

Hey now, it's also in the profile thingy on the left side of the profile too!

Hey mate, my sedan is a R34 Series 2 GTT. From memory you need 2x nut per door as per the image in the linked thread which also is correct. You'll be happy every time you open a door, which when you think about it, is at least 200%+ of the time you drive the vehicle.