Kinkstaah

..... I use the factory ABS/wheel speed sensors just fine? Perhaps the Racelogic system is different? There is another system which is standalone (www.raceTCS.com) which is another option.

I have implemented traction control with a RWD R34 GTT and using a Racelogic system. They generally work the same, they measure front wheel speed and rear wheel speed, and if there is a difference between them, then they do "Something" "Something" is user definable in all of the ECUs that manage this. This is all they really do, they can cut timing, ignition, fuel, boost, etc (pending on system) in order for the difference in wheel speeds to catch up again. TBF, the AWD system in a GTR really is just a mechanical traction control system to begin with...

I'm erring on the side of 'no' in terms of "will they fit without modification". They are much closer to 'you need flares/gtr guards' to fit these comfortably spec if you want a huge meaty 275+ tyre on them etc. They probably could work if you went aggressive with very stretched tyres, and a lot of camber and rolled all the lips on the guards. It will compromise the car a fair bit in terms of actual grip. I have a 34, but wheel fitment with regards to 33 and 34's is generally similar. To be 100% sure, find out the difference between your current rims with a site like www.willtheyfit.com by putting the specs in, and go measure

In my experience, this actually does matter - The position of the IAT sensor doesn't matter with regards to the temperature when I have tested. I've tested it in the tube next to the TB, in the tube at the start. In the airbox, inside the pod filter, as well as in the manifold! The biggest change was ducting cold air from the outside and making a sealed system. I agree - The air will not get heat soaked by the time it gets through the motor, but it will suck already hot air from the engine bay as a preference if it can, because that hot air is closest to the filter/intake. (this is in N/A land). You can't duct your already compressed/hot air to overcome this, because well, it's hot due to the fact it is boosted. I now reguarily see air temps that are 0C hotter than outside. Went for a drive recently and my IAT's were about 12C while beating the hell out of the car. Ducting really does work. Removing the duct and letting it grab heat from the wheel well resulted in 38-40C air because oil cooler is hot, brakes are hot, and it'll grab the nearest air it can (round headlights and shit which is semi-engine bay hot)/through the rad hot. Again not super relevent to your boosted setup 😛

I can see it being logical for pre-cooling the intake charge before it's actually being used. Kind of like dumping dry ice on an intercooler directly.... I.e waiting in line for your start at the drags, or driving around before you want to chop someone on the highway lol, and it would be a net benefit for @mlr's use. However for say some dickhead who decided to supercharge his LS in a skyline, then wanted to do 30 minute hotlapping sessions, at 100% throttle for extended periods well and far beyond a drag run, in a very limited packaging situation with IAT's being extreme, (70+++). I can still see the subjective benefits of generally keeping IAT's lower rather than higher which is more than just pure power tbh. Keeping it lower makes sense. But I'm still curious as to whether it would actually increase RWKW in the long run and/or actually still _work_ when the engine is under load like that. Would the motor just generate too much heat for the AC system to overcome?

Can I have this in laymans terms? Or.. more layman? Would this actually work as a net positive? Assuming the scenario where you're belting the car around a racetrack for 30 minute sessions, with the AC compressor on the entire time... assuming as well that it is geared to not overdrive itself at a hypothetical 7000rpm. Would there be a power gain by having a 1C IAT instead of say 25C, and would it offset the parasitic loss from driving the AC compressor?

Just keep in mind this kit insults the laws of thermo dynamics. It WILL solve your issues by running the kit before you launch the car and having IAT _before_ you drive. However if you're driving all the time with the system on, your AC must also always be on. You will lose more power driving the AC compressor than you will get from colder IAT's. Damn you, fundamental laws of the universe. (it however could reduce knock etc, be more consistent though).

That is awesome, provided you have a water to air cooler already... Now I want it... even though it is entirely unusable for me.... how do I run a water to air cooler and an interchiller while being N/A lol, I demand sub zero temperatures!

Post steak vids or GTFO. Cmon man, I set an example (and my example was so bad I intend to do it again, with better gear (when it arrives tomorrow...) Also I drove a M3 Competition in anger for a couple of hours recently. It absolutely doesn't compare to my own abomination. Yours likely similar. You lust after what you do not understand, stay away gateway german appliances, lest you spend much more on more expensive appliance in the future!

Due to the frustration of a mic, I have now gone to https://www.autoxandtrack.com/autocross-track-videos-sound-amazing-external-mic/ and literally purchased the exact microphone and wind sock used in that page for further testing. Cheaper options may work, but yes I've spent $100+ to deliver better sound for your hearing pleasure (and mine)

Turns out my lapel mic is not the best thing for capturing sound that is not directly in the mic. It's this, but much louder and clearer.... so generally betterer-er 1220306_0455.wav

Gougers gonna gouge. (98 ftw)

You know, I do have a gopro with external mic and back in the day was going to do testing with regards to its location, right near the tailpipe just blows the mic out by maxxing it out when used. I was going to test it as a lapel mic to determine the 'in car sound'. So maybe I'll get onto that... for... testing..

I know what you are referring to and no there is no intake. It sounds a little like a turbo in a weird way, if you can imagine a throttle 'echoing' as it opens (think honda VTEC style when you slam open the throttle). The gf was like "What is that weird whistling sound?" at idle, which is my intake coming in through the bumper vents. It's not really that audible, the car as a whole sounds a lot more exhausty than before (but more growly, unsuprisingly similar to 'growler' intakes for LS1's) because the airbox is now sealed up effectively making it quieter. In short it's more of a unified sound, instead of ENGINE BAY and EXHAUST sounds being two seperate things. It's nice.

The above example actually showed air temps of about 35-40C at the top of Lake Mountain, when I got out of the car and it was about 10C by my uncalibrated... skin, with snapshots like this: ^--- This is well worth watching form the point I timestamped with regards to IAT and Naturally aspirated performance. TLDR: 306 to 332kw by reducing IAT from 50C to 33C. In short, I was pretty convinced the pod was sucking in hot air from the bay itself, as opposed to anything outside the car. Can it take two months to make an airbox? Hell yes it can! I did originally chase up many fabricators but the wait times are extreme. Then someone at work mentioned I technically have all the tools available to make the bits I had assembled into an airbox, as I was planning on changing this: https://justjap.com/collections/cold-air-box-kits/products/sri-alloy-cold-airbox-kit-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-stagea-c34-rb25det Into something that would fit my setup. I had also purchased this kit -> https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/cold-intake-shield from the USA to aid in this as well, as I figured if I'm going all out, I'm going all out, and they also have a supporting video here with regards to how well this stuff works/doesn't work: Below are my horrific home made install pictures. "enjoy" Note, this foam is utter shit, and did not hold up to anything. t has since been replaced with door liner and coated in flashing tape (my god I love flashing tape) which is much MUCH more durable but there's no photos of this right now. I was very proud of relocating my charcoal canister, too. All excited, I went to test it out! $300 tow later, I cursed my alternator pulley which decided to not exactly be bolted on too well, received_315874983709498.mp4 Fun times. With this pulley sorted out, and new belt on, and about 6 hours pulling bits of old belt out of my aircon compressor cover later... it is now spinning true. However, my data from this drive was not really sufficient. I suspected that the holes in the bottom of the chassis weren't really doing great for pulling in cold air, given it's a low pressure area, one side is right next to the tyre/brakes which are quite hot, and the other side is directly behind my oil cooler. Not really ideal. I knew that this cooler used to be on the other side of the car, when the RB was still in it as the oil block is on that side in a RB, so I decided oh yes, it's time to move it on back and get ducting. This was much harder than I thought it was gonna be in my mind, but after some umm'ing and ahh'ing (pictured) I realised it could be made to work, and set about buying some hose (for $120) and learning how to remove and refit AN fittings, and flipping my accusump around so it pointed the other way. And voila, the oil cooler magically changed sides, right in time for me to forget how to make it actually clear the front bumper! Pictured: Seconds before pain Utterly confused, I consulted my own photos to see if I had any for how this thing used to be mounted before I did the swap, and found this photo: ...clearly showing some kind of 'spacer' So I cut up an old TV Antenna that we had laying in the front yard to use as my new spacers. I also mangled the previously well made bracket to make it kind of all fit solid. If it's stupid but it works..... I then tightened the ever living shit out of the fittings, every single one of them put 8.5 liters of oil into the car (which was supposedly 'full, and I only lost 1.2 liters from taking the cooler off...) and started it up to find the tiniest weep from one of the fittings which was sorted by a bit more brute force. It was time to get duct, now that the space was cleared: This is 2x 100mm piece of ag pipe, courtesy of bunnings, just running up to the OG intercooler holes which feed the airbox from underneath. Yes I'm aware the holes are 82/72mm or so, and my actual intake tube is 100mm, but I figured I could overcome inefficiencies with brute force. I also get a very nice intake sound now from inside (and outside lol) the car. However, it clearly works - Tested yesterday with about 20C ambient temps, i.e not ontop of a mountain: So the car is somewhat accidentally tuned rich now as the ECU now thinks the air is much colder (because it is), and oh man does the car feel much better at 20C than it does at 45C or 70C in traffic. 194kmh was recorded at the uh, private 1/4 mile strip I had access to... and 120MPH trap speed is really very high for what is a cam only LS1, take note @mlr :p, and there's probably more in it given the AFR is very fat indeed and should be at ~12.7 to 13.0 instead of 11.4. So yeah. Massive DIY success! Now to ... retune.

I genuinely enjoy cruising around in an auto 2008 Hyundai Accent when I just want to go places and don't want any fuss, performance or emotion and just look out the window all tranquil like when I commute about, so I understand the above post and where you're coming from.

I'm not sure we agree on the term "quite often" given the above info....

tbh life is a lot better with more friends and less power. If I was going to give advice to a 15 year old version of me, I'd go with that.

You could try low balling the Australian ones, you never know if a "30k" car is truly a 30K car. Can I interest you in a V8 R34 sedan? What a perfect daily! (or alternatively, just go for a full daily only car, there is joy to be had in just commuting around in a 2008 Hyundai Accent, I have found)

Near-Brand-New BNF24Z front Swaybar to fit a R33/R34 Skyline. I say near new, because I fitted it to my car and it didn't clear my sump (I have an engine conversion). It will easily clear any RB. It has some marks I would describe as "fitting marks" but otherwise that's the only use it got. Yes, it touched on the sump where the bit of tape is. It comes with a set of HD links which cost $185 new, though these ones are second hand. Given they're bolts, they definitely work as good as new, all things considered. It also comes with a fresh bush kit. All up Whiteline would want $440 for this, you can have it for $300. Much prefer Melb/local, will ship if _you_ organize it to be picked up and delivered to you.

The R35 set works in Sedans. I have a full set, all 4, there is a left hand R35 side and a right hand R35 side. You need 2 of each. The only things you will need are 4 nuts which are not included. It really does feel and work great.

What I want to do is the CTSV Brake swap. The 6 piston kits are incredible, the pad size is ridiculously bigger than the Attakd/KSport/G4/What have you kits. Plus they are OEM sized, OEM calipers etc. They make them for many USDM Nissan cars. Some of them are very VERY similar to R33/R34 to the point where one of the conversion kits would likely work with very minor modifications. https://ctsvbrakeswap.com/ Given there are kits for S15 and S15's can quite often use R34/R33 brakes as well, this should be minimal and should work. It's minimal in general by drilling out one bolt hole to be larger diameter which is about as hard as it generally gets.

The above list with todays prices is a solid guesstimate of 20-25ish K. Before labor. Labor is by far the most expensive part of a project. The only things you're missing that come to mind in my mind are, airbox? pod? something for the intake?. Not sure if the gearbox truly lines up, fits, maybe need an adapter of some sort, I know neither R31's or VL's You also need a clutch, which is another ~1k for something good/suitable/new You will find doing this research that your options for things like "VL injectors (or any second hand part)" could very will be 80% of the cost of some new injectors that are fit for purpose. You then get the fun decision of buying 30 year old, second hand parts or pay a little extra and get a nice, new, 0 year old part with better design. Apply this to any old second hand item. And they say, there's nothing more expensive than doing things cheap

The thing is, all the cars you see that work well, are money pits. Same as the ones that don't go well. I could say random comments like "If I sold mine for 70k, I'd have lost money on it" and this is when it was a 10k buy for the base car, back in the day. The reason its bad is because it is a 30 year old used engine that was not designed for boost. It's infront of a 30 year used gearbox that was not designed for boost. All in a car that has everything else, not designed for boost. Not really anyway, at the levels that people on the internet hold as an entry point for cool factor. Do you think the driveshafts, bushings, bearings, subframes are also not 30 year old items, not designed for boost? Do you have a $100,000 budget for this? Answer honestly. Because if you don't, and this is your first foray into cars and modifying, you will need that much, if you truly want it to do everything 'well' and look the part. If sentences like that make you think "oh jesus f**k no, agggh that is more than I bargained for" then what you really should do is a) Enjoy the car for what it is, an old cool retro ride that isn't really fast but isn't pretending to be b) Sell this to a collector or passion project guy who will do the above c) Take your $40,000 budget and consult a Subaru/BRZ dealer and buy the new GR86. It will kick the shit out of this project for livability, reliability, sanity, and will absolutely be a great platform to learn to wrench on cars going forward. You will love it equally as much as your R31. The truth is I cannot imagine any stock Skyline build in February 2022 that comes out cheaper than a brand new GR86 from a dealership, with a warranty! Any modified skyline project that you buy that has already been modified well also costs more than aforementioned new GR86/BRZ, with a warranty! Sorry, don't have a $40,000 budget at all? There's plenty of hot hatches out there that do a damn good job nowadays and for any road use make a damn lot more sense tbh, which is why you see so damn many of them. I am not having a go at a young guy who is excited by the world of car mods. We are all those at some point. This is sincere advice.

I wanted to say something along the lines of "That could have gone SOOOOOOOOOOOO much worse" but you never know how people react on the internet. I once found a set of pliers in my airbox I had lost for 18 months.