Kinkstaah

An AC compressor is not actually running all the time. Most OEMs will actually avoid the AC from 'kicking' on when you are under heavy load scenarios. The Haltech is mirroring this behaviour by default. I don't know the RPM limits of the AC compressor but I'd be damn suprised if it only hits its max compressor ability at 7000 RPM, because that is NOT a sacrifice most people would make when it comes to using Aircon, as most of the times you want aircon you are going to be in areas of the map under 6999RPM.

I have seen a car foul plugs mysteriously more than others, and it turned out to be the diaphragm in the FPR that had failed, sending fuel into the plenum into two cylinders specifically. Something mechanical has let go in the cylinder that is fouling. It would be very suprising to somehow make a tune that only fouls 1 cylinder unless you are playing with cylinder trims, which I don't think is very common on a powerFC. You need more data available to you. Is the problem spark related? Fuel related? You may need a dyno to figure this out.

I mean, you're removing seats to save weight. So adding something (anything) is counter productive after. I could see it for road car purposes though if the seats are useless and/or there's a cage there and you still want it to look nice and presentable. Still kinda defeats the purpose. That said, I have a mate with a 318ti (with a 2.8 in it) that has a rear seat delete and it just looks like a nice flat boot from the driver's seat back, and you open up the hatch and it looks like this. In this scenario I think it's ace lol.

Their webpage says this: "Quaife ATB Helical LSD differential is suitable for Nissan R200 280-300Z / 200SX models and fits both S13 & S14 with equal length drive flanges" To me this is the direct swapout for the existing Nissan helical, i.e the S chassis one?

There is for S15's though, and 350z's which are both swap options for R series skylines, and the only way to generally get a helical (of any type) into a R series.

But it's still locking... in both directions.... two ways, one might say.. but yes the .5 implies the locking is softer in one direction. Neither option was the pro version, so it wasn't configurable. The first one I posted did not chatter off throttle when going around a corner. Mine did chatter around corners off throttle. It drove me insane as to why when my housemate had the same diff and had no such troubles, until we took them apart to find out that they were not the same. Nismo label them as 1.5 and 2 (I checked) Its possible that when I bought my diff 2nd hand that the guy describing it as 1.5 way understood it the way I do (now) and expected locking on decel. It made sense to me that the diff shop found no issues in my 1.5 way diff because they saw the ramps and were like "Yeah this will also lock on decel" which makes sense. TLDR: When buying one of these, check the center if they are used, or buy the least locking option if you want to use it on the street. One of them is super okay, the other will drive you silly. I have a helical now and super happy lol. I don't think there's an option for a helical in a R33 unless you swap to the S15 subframe and use the S15 helical diff and axles. In which case I'd say put a Quaife in it. Noone does this.

In any case, here's the photos of the "1.5 way" from nismo's center. You can see that on decel, there is no lock, and accel there's a ramp there. And one of my "1.5 way" which clearly pushes in both directions. Which is an actual 1.5 way, but is also a 2 way, because a '1.5 way' is not a thing that exists. A keen eye will notice the ramps are different angles in my old one, so it's not a complete 2 way, hence its 1.... X way (not 1.5 1.8 or 1.3 or whatever) but VERY different on decel. Remember top one is labelled as a 1.5 way but has nothing on decel at all.

100% - Nismo only sell two items, and we had them side by side and opened them up to look at the center ramp rates. NISMO themselves label them as 1 way and 2 way, but everyone else referrs to them as 1.5 way and 2 way. The "1.5 way" has a 45 deg and 90 deg ramp face. 90 deg is an open diff, on deceleration the "1.5" way is entirely open. The 2 way has a 45 degree and a 60ish degree ramp face. So on deceleration it is partially locked, not as locked as it is when fully open. "1.5" way is a misnomer in itself. There can only ever be a 1 way, and anything other than a 1 way is a 2 way diff (because it locks up in... 2 ways, accel and deceleration) with differencing ramp rates to identify how harsh it locks in either direction.

There is no 1.5 way nismo. There is a 2 way nismo and a 1 way nismo. The "1.5" one is the 1 way nismo. This is much better on the road than a 2 way nismo. See above.

👀 muahaha. My car is slower now than it was with a 2.8 and 433rwkw and I'd never go back.

500rwkw in Aussie terms, 98 only, full boost at 3500-4500, 30psi? Nothing exists with those requirements on a 2.5 on Petrol. Certainly would not be fun on the street unless your street is 200+kmh drag runs on the street. In the hills such a setup would be a mess, if it could exist.

372.8KW is indeed a lot. I usually put the happy mark closer to 320ish kw, have a look at how many track days john richo has done on his unopened motor vs someone like yourself (not digging) where it did eventually go kablamo at 372kw. You also have to choose a bigger clutch, less grip, comes on 500rpm later... 370 is still probably okay, but I would personally choose a little less. When I said 'better in every way' I was referring to the G Series Garrett, as well as the BW EFR. At 300kw the brand name turbos come into their own. Their whole 'betterness' is is in all of the areas that are NOT full throttle operation. Log the time driving where you're between 1000 and 5000rpm, at throttle openings 0-75% and compare that to the time operating at 100% throttle at 5000-7000rpm. Even when you're belting it through the streets as hard as you can, 90% of the time is in the 0-75% throttle and 1000 to 5000rpm. This is why people rate the newer tech so much.

I understand - The turbos I mentioned are superior to the GTX3076 in every single way. One is a BW, and the Garrett G series are a flat out upgrade by the same manufacturer. I have also owned a GTX3076 for direct comparison :p. 500whp is a lot and is just past the issue free fun threshold.

Borg Warner EFR's are the best at that. It is their entire thing. No turbo comes on that slowly (under full throttle) but you could set a boost controller to do that if you wanted to. Boost by gear and artificial traction control by tapering boost on slowly is a thing that people do, but then you have a scenario where you either make the boost come on slow enough to keep grip in 4th (and thus 1-2-3 is wheelspin still) or you set your boost ramp for traction for example in 2nd, but you're leaving power on the table in higher gears. The simplest answer is a new Garrett G series. Buying a G25-660 on a 2.5 would be great and still not annihilate gearboxes, overcome commonly available tyres, create clutches that are too annoying to drive, and is physically compact so you get plenty of space to run lines to and from it.

I forget that your ECU is in the engine bay, mine is in the R34 position so my Racelogic is also there, so I need about 10cm of wire, not much with regards to injectors. ABS sensors will usually have a + and a - according to workshop manual. I believe mine didn't work on the + so I connected it to the - and hooray. Just try ONE wheel speed sensor first (where it meets the ecu it goes to, inside the car!) and troubleshoot it and then replicate the working system for the other three wheels. I'm confident it'll be easier than you think.

The EFR7163 is smaller (and is in the 300-350kw range). I had a 7670 on a 2.8 Neo and it was fkin awesome. Blew everything out of the water. It's a neat turbo installed, given it has a built in boost solenoid and BOV as well. Given it's relatively small size it'd be damn easy to mount. If you wanted the car to look stock (i.e low mount) there is the Garrett G25 range, and there's probably logic in a G25/G30 550-600 region which would also be the bomb. (but I still prefer EFR) I would throw the FFP in the bin (or sell it), it will do nothing for you but create potential issues you don't need to have. Cars that look good with the bonnet up are one thing. Cars that drive good with the bonnet down are another. I know which one I choose if I have to decide between them, so my answers are biased that way.

Yep. I was excited by this thread and "fun street RB" until you said 6-700 anythings... For your intended number, EFR 9180? lol. My actual choice for an actual street/fun RB is closer to something like an EFR7163. Borg Warner EFR's are still unmatched for part throttle stuff. They are just so lovely to drive in non 100% WOT scenarios, like almost 100% of the time a car is driving on anything that is not a race track or drag strip or dyno.

The racelogic actually came with flying leads which were shielded for the wheel speed sensors. I just soldered the ends of the wires into the ABS computer as per normal pretty close to where the plug plugs in. Injectors was the same, just spliced into it close to the end. The racelogic actually has two sets of plugs you wire in, so you can unplug it from your injector wires to remove it from the system (and plug your injector wires back into themselves). Not sure if RaceTCS has something similar, but there was nothing special wiring wise required, the shielding was supplied and packaged. Looking at the RaceTCS unit, it looks like you can simply cut the injector wire, put one end into the RaceTCS item and the other end into the appropriate RaceTCS port and clamp it down which is even easier.

There's a dial that has the amount of slip you want (0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% and off in my case) So at the turn of a dial near my left knee you can indeed go berzerk. It just needs access to a speed sensor or something that pulses in time with the wheels and it uses that for it's calculations. Racelogic used to sell a wheel speed sensor kit and a wheel speed sensor version but it was a bit more pricey. I don't think RaceTCS has that but given they label their own item as "Racelogic alternative" I wouldn't be surprised if it shows up soon lol.

Btw I am all for a decent 9 speed auto, they all lock in gears now and don't slip like the slushboxes of old. As a result they don't feel slushy either. I'm just saying it's not going to be a race cracking DCT sending shockwaves through the car like it's a GT3 car. Which isn't what you don't want anyway, probably.

I have done this, and made a custom airbox with two pipes that run down through the (turbo) stock intercooler holes that are in that section, to duct air from the opening in the front bumper. It works really, really, really well. The reason it works well is I noticed how hot my intake air temperatures actually were with a naked pod filter in the engine bay, but because my car has a V8 in the front of it, I could not use the stock snorkel system so I had to make up a box and duct it etc, the details are in the most recent posts (ish) in my build thread in my profile/signature. That said, I have a LS in the engine bay as mentioned. You don't. I actually needed the system to draw more air and that air to be 10C on a 10C day, and not 40C on a 10C day, and I can get benefits from a 4in pipe and big intake manifold. The RB25... just doesn't. The reason it doesn't is because the intake system/airbox is sufficient for any amount of air that the RB25 is going to draw into itself. I would be surprised if the RB25 isn't at 100KPA at full throttle at 7000RPM on the stock system.

I never did a video on how well mine worked/didn't work as there's enough out there from the various manufacturers. I can let loose in 1st at 5000+rpm in the wet and the the car just drives straight. It does wiggle a bit relative to how much slip I dial in on the dial. You would know that letting off otherwise at about 2000rpm results in a hilarious burnout on road tyres, even if you never posted a video of said rubber destructive test. Caveat to above audacious claim: Mine is configured to kick in at 4kmh, (the nissan sensors don't pick up a reliable speed lower than that on all 4 wheels) so I have to get the car to 4kmh before truly just going flat foot on the accelerator/fully dropping the clutch. I even only have a 6cyl system, so it can only ever cut 6cyl. I still can barely notice it activate as the car cuts in/out 2-6 of the 8 cyl. Also from testing/setting up, I can tell you a LS does not move under its own power with 2cyl active only, so you don't really need an 8cyl version. It works great in corners. Pin 1st at 5kmh doing a u-turn and having the car not lose traction is VERY DIFFERENT to what happens with the system off.

I just want to know if they actually fit well. Source: Sanding my left hand lens for multiple hours after removing it 😛

You know it's a slushbox right? Not a DCT? That said it's probably a pretty decent gearbox for performance use, being a 2023 car and 9 speed 😛

This isn't the fun answer, but the stock airbox and snorkel will outperform a pod filter that is naked in the engine bay on a naturally aspirated car, if you can source that I would be sourcing that. That performs as a pretty good cold air intake, and I do not think you will be having vaccum under full throttle with a RB25DE to necessitate a larger intake system at all. Yes I know it got smashed up, but I'd just be on the lookout for a stock NA Airbox/Snorkel combination while the car is being fixed up panel wise. It'll work, and it WILL fit.