Kinkstaah

They were never shit, and this is cool as hell.

My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)

These are really great concise videos tbh! (I also have a melling pump)

Especially with... oil pressure.....

Do not get the high volume pump - You will be just pumping oil harder into the heads and through your PCV system, and emptying your sump faster. What you want is the high PRESSURE pump. So yeah that's why not I mean is it a real issue given how you use the car, no Did you need to change the oil pump at all given that information also no

Nah, he will buy the M3 then join the ranks of "Oh, man, I miss the R33, I didn't know what I had until I sold it, but now it's too expensive/not possible to do it again" Save this post for 2026 lols.

The RWC requirements are pretty clear actually in regards to what is checked during a RWC test in victoria. One of the more stringent ones (it does note this out specifically now) is that the car's emissions system needs to be as factory from the air filter intake to the dump pipe. If the car is currently registered it is fine to assume it is still able to be registered unless it is a WOVR vehicle, which means you need the reciepts for the damage that got the car off the WOVR register and back onto the road. Provided it's not been written off. Other than the turbo/filter/intercooler situation most of the other considerations for RWC are safety related as well as modifications that fit under VSI8. This means wheels that are 1" wider than OEM, not sticking out past the guards, passing a noise check, brakes that work, no obvious oil leaks everywhere, seatbelts that work, wipers that work. Anything that does not meet this needs to be presented with a VASS certificate. Those are generally reserved for registering a vehicle. As my car has been engineered, I'm actually not sure what the new buyer would need to provide, but I am going off on a tangent here. As to what is stock and what looks stock, well the RWC tester is required to take photos. So it needs to look stock. . This goes for every car sold or RWC'ed for defects etc.

Still available. $250 obo!

Drag radials will change it, I mean if the 60ft becomes 1.8 you'll be down into the very low 11's to boot. Then again after you have the slip in your hand you now have extra rims and tyres to stare at going "Ah yeah... cool, now what" So may as well just do the math and be satisfied 😛

I registered in the cruise, but as I wake up slowly the day before.... I think I'll just head up there later in the day because sleep is fun.

The earlier LS1's do that, the newer ones (like mine) have the PCV valve in the valley cover, so the only hose they have stock is the under-valley one to the intake manifold. My one came with a nightmare combination of both vents and a newer PCV. You need to have the one from the throttle body on. I plugged it and exploded my dipstick at the track N/A because I was thinking boost land with a one way valve. Well it turns out crankcase pressure when it builds vents in the other direction into the intake manifold, so it's both fresh air and a vent. So don't mess with that one lol.

That reminds me, why did I use all of the ports on the valve covers when I could neaten it and just use the PCV like you have done. Cause.. flow? Ugh. Looks nice man. Much nicer than mine!

Not to mention comparisons to other cars (like falcons, commodores) which also are great at doing what they were designed to do... but this is off topic now. If you want a reliable R34 GTR with 600HP, the answer is buy a 911 GT3, because that is what it takes lol.

There's a big difference between "is shit" and "wasn't designed for that purpose" though 😛

An accusump does not need any ECU or electricals to control it, it is purely mechanical in nature with regard to how it responds to oil pressure loss situations.

Don't have logging like that. You can set auto logging once a set of parameters have been met. I.e Full throttle = Log. This means you can go back in time when you have a problem and dont have to pre-emptively start logging. It's the future! By the future I mean I had it many years ago and miss it.

I told youuuuu!

Presumably car was running before attempting to do any of this? It's the loom by the sound of things, given new spark plugs, new coilpacks and new loom... that's some decent troubleshooting. Yes there could easily be fuel on them depending how much cranking you attempted to do to get it to start again which can mess things up. That said, by the time the loom arrives probably will have evaporated away 😛

So we're comparing red vs blue lines here? Pretty much in line with what people expect. I was under the impression one of the big draws of these turbos is that they were physically smaller than their GTX predecessors. Is this not the case given what you've said about it fouling on the head?

Nah, pitfalls and ... "R&D" aside.. I am very very happy with what I have, and wouldn't trade the experience of driving it for anything I have ever driven, including HSV/SS's, RB Powered Skylines (of which iterations I've had many) or or a BMW M3 Competition... It's not hyperbole, I am often plagued by wanting to see what else is out there, is the grass greener etc, but every time I drive something it only reinforces the good thing I have made (or at least, suited to my tastes), It just doesn't exist in any other form. I joke that my car is "basically a corvette" now, but honestly after reading what they do to make them track ready, I'm closer to the end goal with what I currently have than it would be switching to one of those even. Plus, now it has history.

🤔

Guys its important to understand I didn't initially fk the headlight and it now works properly again!! 👏 It's also important to understand I never put in the wrong adapter to begin with and used awesome troubleshooting skills to find the issue and rectify it! ....I definitely Gregged it a few times getting to that solution though, and probably should have checked what I got sent in error but I did get there.....

So, that adventure with hairdryers didn't quite work. It also gave me COVID. So I thought I got a brain cell and remembered to pull a bulb out this time, so the vapor could escape before using a heat gun to get the moisture out. Unfortunately in doing so I melted/marred the lens. _f**k_ So I got a brain cell and took it out of the car, removing the bulbs and let it actually evaporate, and decided to try my best to sand down the headlight to remove the marring. This was reasonably great, and the internet said I could spray some clear over this and get a nice UV resistant protective shine. Sweet. What could go wrong? Above ^-- what can go wrong. This happens if you spray like a retard on a too cold day. For bonus points, the above photo is AFTER it has been sanded down. The cracks are actually embedded into the plastic because it would appear that Acrylic clear actually chemically reacts to the plastic in R34 headlights? f**kin major sads. I then decided to pull the headlight apart, aided by my heat gun, and figured well, it's time to REALLY get sanding. I used these tools for multiple hours, multiple sheets, ranging from 40 grit (yes!!!!! on a power tool) to 2000 grit. Over the course of a few days it resulted in this.... Eventually this actually did work, once I exhausted my sanding I used a Cerakote headlight restoral kit, which came up pretty damn excellent, and by "Excellent" I mean it looked like my other un-molested headlight. But then... the moisture retuuuurned. This time I used science to get the moisture out, as it didn't come out over time by just leaving the headlight open, or as I had hoped - Driving the car with the bulbs removed. Given this opens into my airbox, I would think THE ENGINE would suck the moisture out. Nope. Once dry, I used black sikaflex in the mouldings in an effort to make the damn thing seal, with a lot of tape to protect my ... somewhat usable headlights. It has not since misted/monsooned up. I think I may have sealed it right the first time, but not have actually got the moisture out, or sealed it all in a warm area then it would condense when cold. In any case, now it does not condense on its own while cold, and should be damn sealed with sickaflex everywhere, given I am now very intimate with how these things go together and come apart. Onto the next issue with moisture. My OEM oil pressure sensor seemed to do impossible things. At hot idle it would show 2-3 bar, and then at the next stop it would show... 1 bar. It also didn't really correspond to higher RPM properly. Because oil pressure shouldn't really behave like that I was somewhat confused. I checked my other oil pressure gauge on the other end of the Accusump and this behaved properly when revving the car, and was holding between 45 and 60psi (phew). Still this gauge made me sad. So I looked to how it was installed, my power steering leak causing issues in the past, I wondered if there was a leak that was messing with the reading of the sender. The sender grounds to the block and is 1/8 BSPT. The hole in the oil adapter is a 1/8 NPT. There was an adaptor already in there, and after messing with it, it looks to be the same thread as my oil temp sensor which is drilled into the oil block at the top, which VDO state is 1/8 NPTF. These were definitely all different from one another as I fiddled with them by hand. It looked as though the adapter in there with tape was a 1/8 NPTF extension. In any case, what I needed was a 1/8 NPT Male to 1/8 BSPT female extension. So I ordered that, and received an Aeroflow 1/8 BSPT Male to 1/8 NPT female. Which threaded together pretty easily until I did this to it. Yes, it snapped off inside the oil block adapter. Yes, I had to remove it from the car and drill/unthread it out. I then realized I got sent the wrong product, and the company that I bought it from sent me the correct product. My car sat on a 45 degree angle in the driveway with the oil block removed so oil wouldn't drain out in the interim. I received the correct part and now 1) I do not have any leaks 2) Oil pressure shows 45psi at idle, and increases with revs correctly in the OEM cluster (the 34 one responds very quickly) and I now get 60psi+ at 3-4k. Likely more past that but I didn't go redlining like a hoon. 3) It may be a placebo but less tapping from the engine while driving it around. In any case I have no leaks and very stout oil pressure. I have also ordered my bodykit parts for my ugly tetris block. The ETA on that is 11 weeks. I fully expect to annihilate the lip multiple times, so I am going to raise the car 20mm to get back to those mythical sydneykid specs at 360/350mm as I realised my car actually sits 340/340. Yes I bought a bodykit and will raise the car. I do strange things.

I assure you it was in super sport+ everything available. It definitely did not feel technically better in any form. Slower, worse handling, worse sound, much heavier, way less communication. It was a luxury car that had good power. I felt it a bit shameful calling it a 'competition' anything.

Tbh it seems the coolant port works correctly, because the idling does drop when the car heats up. The leak is elsewhere (or inside the unit itself). When they shit themselves they idle high. When they fully let go you get 2000rpm idle everywhere. Joy.