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Everything posted by Kinkstaah
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👀 muahaha. My car is slower now than it was with a 2.8 and 433rwkw and I'd never go back.
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500rwkw in Aussie terms, 98 only, full boost at 3500-4500, 30psi? Nothing exists with those requirements on a 2.5 on Petrol. Certainly would not be fun on the street unless your street is 200+kmh drag runs on the street. In the hills such a setup would be a mess, if it could exist.
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372.8KW is indeed a lot. I usually put the happy mark closer to 320ish kw, have a look at how many track days john richo has done on his unopened motor vs someone like yourself (not digging) where it did eventually go kablamo at 372kw. You also have to choose a bigger clutch, less grip, comes on 500rpm later... 370 is still probably okay, but I would personally choose a little less. When I said 'better in every way' I was referring to the G Series Garrett, as well as the BW EFR. At 300kw the brand name turbos come into their own. Their whole 'betterness' is is in all of the areas that are NOT full throttle operation. Log the time driving where you're between 1000 and 5000rpm, at throttle openings 0-75% and compare that to the time operating at 100% throttle at 5000-7000rpm. Even when you're belting it through the streets as hard as you can, 90% of the time is in the 0-75% throttle and 1000 to 5000rpm. This is why people rate the newer tech so much.
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I understand - The turbos I mentioned are superior to the GTX3076 in every single way. One is a BW, and the Garrett G series are a flat out upgrade by the same manufacturer. I have also owned a GTX3076 for direct comparison :p. 500whp is a lot and is just past the issue free fun threshold.
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Borg Warner EFR's are the best at that. It is their entire thing. No turbo comes on that slowly (under full throttle) but you could set a boost controller to do that if you wanted to. Boost by gear and artificial traction control by tapering boost on slowly is a thing that people do, but then you have a scenario where you either make the boost come on slow enough to keep grip in 4th (and thus 1-2-3 is wheelspin still) or you set your boost ramp for traction for example in 2nd, but you're leaving power on the table in higher gears. The simplest answer is a new Garrett G series. Buying a G25-660 on a 2.5 would be great and still not annihilate gearboxes, overcome commonly available tyres, create clutches that are too annoying to drive, and is physically compact so you get plenty of space to run lines to and from it.
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MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I forget that your ECU is in the engine bay, mine is in the R34 position so my Racelogic is also there, so I need about 10cm of wire, not much with regards to injectors. ABS sensors will usually have a + and a - according to workshop manual. I believe mine didn't work on the + so I connected it to the - and hooray. Just try ONE wheel speed sensor first (where it meets the ecu it goes to, inside the car!) and troubleshoot it and then replicate the working system for the other three wheels. I'm confident it'll be easier than you think. -
The EFR7163 is smaller (and is in the 300-350kw range). I had a 7670 on a 2.8 Neo and it was fkin awesome. Blew everything out of the water. It's a neat turbo installed, given it has a built in boost solenoid and BOV as well. Given it's relatively small size it'd be damn easy to mount. If you wanted the car to look stock (i.e low mount) there is the Garrett G25 range, and there's probably logic in a G25/G30 550-600 region which would also be the bomb. (but I still prefer EFR) I would throw the FFP in the bin (or sell it), it will do nothing for you but create potential issues you don't need to have. Cars that look good with the bonnet up are one thing. Cars that drive good with the bonnet down are another. I know which one I choose if I have to decide between them, so my answers are biased that way.
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Yep. I was excited by this thread and "fun street RB" until you said 6-700 anythings... For your intended number, EFR 9180? lol. My actual choice for an actual street/fun RB is closer to something like an EFR7163. Borg Warner EFR's are still unmatched for part throttle stuff. They are just so lovely to drive in non 100% WOT scenarios, like almost 100% of the time a car is driving on anything that is not a race track or drag strip or dyno.
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MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
The racelogic actually came with flying leads which were shielded for the wheel speed sensors. I just soldered the ends of the wires into the ABS computer as per normal pretty close to where the plug plugs in. Injectors was the same, just spliced into it close to the end. The racelogic actually has two sets of plugs you wire in, so you can unplug it from your injector wires to remove it from the system (and plug your injector wires back into themselves). Not sure if RaceTCS has something similar, but there was nothing special wiring wise required, the shielding was supplied and packaged. Looking at the RaceTCS unit, it looks like you can simply cut the injector wire, put one end into the RaceTCS item and the other end into the appropriate RaceTCS port and clamp it down which is even easier. -
MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
There's a dial that has the amount of slip you want (0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% and off in my case) So at the turn of a dial near my left knee you can indeed go berzerk. It just needs access to a speed sensor or something that pulses in time with the wheels and it uses that for it's calculations. Racelogic used to sell a wheel speed sensor kit and a wheel speed sensor version but it was a bit more pricey. I don't think RaceTCS has that but given they label their own item as "Racelogic alternative" I wouldn't be surprised if it shows up soon lol. -
Btw I am all for a decent 9 speed auto, they all lock in gears now and don't slip like the slushboxes of old. As a result they don't feel slushy either. I'm just saying it's not going to be a race cracking DCT sending shockwaves through the car like it's a GT3 car. Which isn't what you don't want anyway, probably.
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Reparing my r34 after crash - Pod filter
Kinkstaah replied to MarcusH's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I have done this, and made a custom airbox with two pipes that run down through the (turbo) stock intercooler holes that are in that section, to duct air from the opening in the front bumper. It works really, really, really well. The reason it works well is I noticed how hot my intake air temperatures actually were with a naked pod filter in the engine bay, but because my car has a V8 in the front of it, I could not use the stock snorkel system so I had to make up a box and duct it etc, the details are in the most recent posts (ish) in my build thread in my profile/signature. That said, I have a LS in the engine bay as mentioned. You don't. I actually needed the system to draw more air and that air to be 10C on a 10C day, and not 40C on a 10C day, and I can get benefits from a 4in pipe and big intake manifold. The RB25... just doesn't. The reason it doesn't is because the intake system/airbox is sufficient for any amount of air that the RB25 is going to draw into itself. I would be surprised if the RB25 isn't at 100KPA at full throttle at 7000RPM on the stock system. -
MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I never did a video on how well mine worked/didn't work as there's enough out there from the various manufacturers. I can let loose in 1st at 5000+rpm in the wet and the the car just drives straight. It does wiggle a bit relative to how much slip I dial in on the dial. You would know that letting off otherwise at about 2000rpm results in a hilarious burnout on road tyres, even if you never posted a video of said rubber destructive test. Caveat to above audacious claim: Mine is configured to kick in at 4kmh, (the nissan sensors don't pick up a reliable speed lower than that on all 4 wheels) so I have to get the car to 4kmh before truly just going flat foot on the accelerator/fully dropping the clutch. I even only have a 6cyl system, so it can only ever cut 6cyl. I still can barely notice it activate as the car cuts in/out 2-6 of the 8 cyl. Also from testing/setting up, I can tell you a LS does not move under its own power with 2cyl active only, so you don't really need an 8cyl version. It works great in corners. Pin 1st at 5kmh doing a u-turn and having the car not lose traction is VERY DIFFERENT to what happens with the system off. -
R34 Headlight Replacement Behrman
Kinkstaah replied to eddie100684's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I just want to know if they actually fit well. Source: Sanding my left hand lens for multiple hours after removing it 😛 -
You know it's a slushbox right? Not a DCT? That said it's probably a pretty decent gearbox for performance use, being a 2023 car and 9 speed 😛
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Reparing my r34 after crash - Pod filter
Kinkstaah replied to MarcusH's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
This isn't the fun answer, but the stock airbox and snorkel will outperform a pod filter that is naked in the engine bay on a naturally aspirated car, if you can source that I would be sourcing that. That performs as a pretty good cold air intake, and I do not think you will be having vaccum under full throttle with a RB25DE to necessitate a larger intake system at all. Yes I know it got smashed up, but I'd just be on the lookout for a stock NA Airbox/Snorkel combination while the car is being fixed up panel wise. It'll work, and it WILL fit. -
MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
It is basically the racelogic one that I have, and works really well with minimal f**king around, it doesnt take a lot to get it to function better than you expect. Anyone can wire it in. As long as you can identify your injector wires, and your ABS/wheel speed wires from the factory car, you can splice this in. It'll work with the factory ECU as well, and by work with I mean entirely independent of, which doesn't cause a problem with the factory ECU, basically. -
MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
www.racetcs.com By far the simplest way for what you want (which is wheelspin due to power) -
Slow 180sx VQ30DETT
Kinkstaah replied to 30ed32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I have a T56 magnum and the other side of things is I have a V8, RWD, Manual skyline so it's very driver focused and all that stuff in a formula that is pure blablablabla (it is very fun though) When I bought the Magnum the kits were only just starting to be developed, and couldn't get any info on the dimensions of the thing (i.e would it fit better? worse? but how much?) just wasn't known vs brand new warrantied 933hp transmission with excellent feel and all that. Then I see this -> -
Slow 180sx VQ30DETT
Kinkstaah replied to 30ed32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
They rob you of time and money by installing a BMW part? I kinda want to install the 7 speed DSG behind my LS, for huge amounts of money for questionable benefit, definitely less reliability and arguably less fun but cooler somehow while throwing the best manual gearbox in the world in the bin (???) Okay, Nissans definitely rob you of time and money. -
Same, but was from an actual human who saw photos of my setup, even though the fence (and powered, solid gate) is ostensibly the same. Enthusiast saw the photos and were happy to help me out as they said it provides the same protection as a garage would. (moreso, given the gate in my case). Shannons agreed with me, but they couldn't for policy reasons. Another option is Ryno, which offered a very similar quote - But they didn't have a km restriction because they generally know these cars won't do 50,000km a year, so they don't really bother with making you sit under a limit, as they said they know when they DO go out, they will go out and do 500km cruises, so limit based on km's doesn't make much sense, as they didn't want me to have to wait to 'spend' KMs. I took the Ryno quote to Enthusiasts and asked them to match it, and they did. The first person I spoke to I wanted to increase my $ from 35k to 50k given current market and was told lolno. The second enthusiast person asked for name of first operator and time of call etc... so that was nice. Good human that 2nd time! Ask for Anne lol.
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MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
You're thinking too conservative. Hit up Gumtree and find someone else's used rear pair. You want 16 or 15in with a nice big meaty sidewall that you swap when you get to the track. For luls, do one run on the street tyres so you can go LOL WHOA THIS IS SO MUCH BETTER on things like MT ET Streets. -
Tyres you use(d) and how u would rate them
Kinkstaah replied to ZigenGT's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Tbh while I've used both, the AD08R left a bit of a bad taste in my mouth through the 2-3 sets I've used. I know the RS4 doesn't tend to cycle as well, while the 08R is basically as-new until cords, but when they cost 50% more and may offer 0.5% more better performance (though they lose most direct tests - maybe when RS4 is ultra brand new) for 0 more longevity I can't help but just feel they're overpriced for what they are. If money was no object I'd get them, but tbh if money was no object I'd probably daily pilot sport cup 2's 😛 -
MLR's Bogan cruise ship
Kinkstaah replied to The Bogan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
He's right, the R888R is really for circuit stuff which is not what this is for.... You need a huge, pliable sidewall for drag. No track tyre is worth putting on, to the degree it's not worth going to the drags without them in your (or my) scenario.