Kinkstaah

Once people understand how the system works, and in conjunction with the rest of the car (i.e there's more considerations to be made if you try and splice this into a 2023 911 or M4...)... the stuff they need to do is pretty simple. You don't actually even need to cut a wire. You just strip back the shielding. I did talk up about how much you want to tune it, but I am very OCD with this kind of stuff. I wanted my 5% to be 5%. In the real world if it doesn't cut enough with default settings you could just change the dial to make it more aggressive, i.e if it gives you too much slip (or not enough slip) at "10%" then just move the dial to 5, 0, or 15, or 20 for preference. I just tuned the shit out of it so that I could leave the dial in one spot pretty much forever

This is going to sound simplistic, but it is, and here I go Everything on the car exists to support the turbo So if you change that, the list of things you should _consider_ upgrading is approximately the entire vehicle.

That. Maybe you have a GTT Knuckle or something along those lines. Or maybe R34 GT's really have a 14mm hole, though I didn't have that issue when I directly bolted R33 GTST brakes onto my R34 directly. I did have to drill the hub out to 14mm later though to fit a R34 GTT based kit.

Then you don't have what you say you have, one way or the other.

English is fun. That sentence somehow perfectly works both ways! MORE than needed, you can't even emphasize it differently and it still can mean: it is more than is required it is required more than merely 'needed' In any case, this will ideally require a laptop and a bit of driving and a bit of skids to fine tune the behaviour. No matter what option you go with. The simplest way is right foot control. People just don't care in straight line world, they culturally ignore launching the car at low speed on road tyres. This is why Roll Racing exists, and everyone on a drag strip is using drag radials and a prepped surface. Then they all tell themselves they are as fast as [insert supercar here] who is doing it on an unprepped surface with road tyres 😛

Aftermarket ECU is not really needed for a LS, Haltech didn't do one for awhile given how effective things like HPTuners is. The only feature that I don't have access to is Wideband Closed Loop fuel control (which admittedly I do kinda wish I had!) That said: I could also not require that if I just used the 102MM MAF's that exist and tune it via MAF like an OEM. The car is tuned well enough for me that that expense is a bit of ehhh, but if I had to start again and get new intake pipes made up etc etc I would have done that. I have full flex and all of those things. The underlying ECU is pretty damn robust. Anyone that can install an ECU can install RaceTCS. All you need is to know where your ABS sensors are (there will be 4). And your injector wires are (there will be 8..) and where a tach wire is. Can be the engine ECU one or the dash one. Splice into them, add power and ground and off you go. Though, it also requires some tuning to get it cutting in the way you want (i.e not too harsh/not harsh enough). Though you can use the dial. Hell, I have the 6cylinder version, so only 6 of my injectors are spliced into. I assure you a LS cannot move under its own power running on 2cyl. With no hyperbole, I am able to do a U turn in torrential rain fully WOT in 1st gear and it'll just ... do that. Though admittedly in that scenario it may splutter a little. I can also set it to 25% in some... off road.. testing... facilities and it'll just hold that amount of slip until the road speed catches up and then ends up going straight. TBH it's also safe. Plenty of times I've been around the roundabout in the wet near my house, and the tiniest stab of the throttle will send the car going sideways at 10kmh if you don't have it, or back off before it kicks in from pure inertia lol. The LS is stable as hell once you're moving, but in my case I very much traded boost kicking in at 50kmh sending the car sideways with trying to get the car moving from 0kmh in some sort of stable manner. That mannerism with a positive displacement charger must be 'fun' but perhaps the auto dulls this somewhat at very low load.

Yes you can. It removes timing given your car is setup with an Auto box (and presumably it is configured to use it) and came with it from the factory, so all of the wires match up. The car does a torque calculation in the ECU and uses it to determine whether it is going above it. It will require tuning, so what the computer THINKS is X nm of torque actually lines up with how much torque is blowing the tyres apart. In other words, it is gonna be hard to tune this because you don't actually know what value you want in there, because your engine may think it is producing 342NM, but is actually producing 550nm, and 474 actual nm is when the tyres give way, if you catch my drift. This will cost more than wiring in the TC system you have and work less effectively. I believe (my car is manual so...) this leverages the stock TC system in the car to change how it pulls timing to regain traction. Assuming that is all still connected and plugged in and working for your OEM car, it could be a feasible solution if you get all the data out of the logger to determine how to set this table (s) right.

100% compatibility between R33 GTST and R34 GT. Both ends. Info is definitely out there, but people somehow being confused despite it being confirmed many times is somewhat funny. The R34 GTT has larger bolt holes. It can be fixed by drilling 14mm bolt holes instead of of the 12 that the R33GTST and R34 GT has.

Sent what. Nothing? (I don't see the thing to see :D)

I agree with you on that. I had it with a Haltech PS2000 (separately) and it did cause potential issues because I had a wideband AFR fuel controller on the Haltech, and traction control's 'lean' spikes (as read by the wideband, because persistent 5cyl misfires would come up as lean) could cause engine protection to kick in. Given all you need is the ECU to read wheel speed, and then know if there's a discrepancy then do [X] I was surprised it wasn't part of the modern ECU's at the time. It now pretty much is, for that exact reason. Nowadays a modern ECU will incorporate this if you are buying, as well as things like Wideband fuel trims instead of narrowband and other cool shit. Still, people who already HAVE an ECU that doesnt have these features, could get this instead of shelling out $3500+ to upgrade their aftermarket ECU to a slightly better aftermarket ECU... Still, for 90's jap cars (and LS1-3-7's) they are in this sweet spot where this is really super effective. It's by far one of the best mods I've ever done as these cars often benefit the most from it, given they have massive midrange power skids across pretty much every platform if you go WOT at 3000rpm in 1st, or 2nd gear. More modern motors probably don't need it/don't let you ever disable factory TC/factory TC is good enough, or have additional considerations like direct AND port injection where simply grounding out an injector just won't function and cause all sorts of knock on issues.

The above video literally explains the functionality of what the Racelogic/RCS system does. (other than GPS for AWD which is not applicable). I should have mentioned more clearly that it cuts one cylinder at a time, (not all of them, any time slip is detected) and cycles through the cylinders it actually cuts. The amount of slip is programmable into a rotary dial. (0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, off) You can program the strategies for what the cut pattern is (there's 4 levels of intervention pending on how far you go past your slip target - these are the default settings) In practice you do not notice it cut in. It was damn seemless on the RB25, but on a V8 you literally don't hear it or even notice what are effectively misfires. Granted, you could use a very fast electronic throttle that is linked on a modern ECU to do this if it reacts fast enough, but injector simply not firing is damn fast and effective, and simple, and cheap. Plenty of videos online showing it's effectiveness.

I agree, but in my situation I was splitting RB blocks apart and my bearings survived with no damage each time... I agree nowadays it is very much used to avoid breaking rods and (sensibly) more and more tuners are tuning to a 'safe torque limit' and dropping power through midrange to accomodate that. Which I'm all for. But all the dangers of too much in the middle are usually referred to as broken clutches, snapped gearboxes, bent rods, not... spun bearings. At least as a _primary_ concern? It is extremely easy. Your car shuts off injectors every time you come off the throttle. It is not 'less' fuel. It is no fuel. It is Deceleration Fuel Cutoff on demand. Something that your car already has. This is more or less outlined in the RaceTCS and Racelogic documentation to address people misthinking that it will cause lean conditions in operation. It is a DIY installation. Pulling fuel out and cutting fuel are different. Unless you mean "pulling" as the same as "pulling literally all fuel out" which is what the Racelogic/RaceTCS does. It stops the injector firing completely. You have a simple, elegant solution sitting on your shelf that works in conjunction with the stock ECU and does not interfere with it. Going full throttle in a torrential storm in 1st gear is available to you. I would rather have a fuel cut in my cylinder which the car does natively every time you drive it, than an artificial rich/antilag/bad timing situation to the point where the car barely runs to slow it down. I'd rather have no combustion event in there than a really, really 'bad' one. But who knows. Perhaps the Haltech 2500 has the function to cut fuel to a cylinder as an option, so you can.... buy the exact same thing you have...

The 18x9 + 35 exist for this reason. - Though for my calcs these will hit the uprights. I have 18x9 +30 and I'm pretty sure I don't have 5mm to spare... more like... 2mm... 9.5+38 is an obvious no, and would slam into the uprights and I'm very suprised that the caliper is the only problem!

T1 may not be so bad cause I doubt people are slamming 100% brake pressure into the ground approaching it at the very last second, so the it may be benefitting from being less severe on the pedal by way of it being a fast corner. My Sandown foibles are around it being a not-very-fast corner, over tons of bumps, at the end of a very long straight. Back end wandering around is less suitable. I am also very not-fast there (or anywhere). But I can see where going faster requires and like you say, rear end wandering around makes me think "nah, f**k that" which is not confidence inspiring if you want to also go quicker! I found that using a BM57 really helped with this as it actually engaged my front brakes first so when it locked, it locked up the front, not the back. I don't know without looking if you have an upgraded front BBK. If you do, upgrade your BMC. Before I changed it, I was going through rear pads at 3x the rate of the front ones, on the same compound. That said, racecars often have more brake bias at the back, because you want braking on all 4 corners to stop the car which actually helps it be more stable too 😛 But the secret to smooth driving and confidence is smooth inputs. Especially with what is a heavy car (any road car). Hell, driving fast is really just dancing around with weight transfer, so if you imagine dancing around with a 1500KG jug of water sloshing around, Takumi style - That's the game.

I think you will find Whiteline also agree with you though... I am with you regarding the car pitching under braking, though that is still going to happen and won't just stop doing it even if you have no front suspension. Momentum is momentum.... a better driver than me would use this weight distribution to assist with turn in, which is what trail braking is all about. Also don't slam the brakes on hard then immediately turn etc, ease in/out of the brake pedal to let suspension do suspension things. All easier said than done when approaching T1 SMSP or T1 Phillip Island or T1/T6 Sandown

I was about to say Ohlins at $3000 is a complete steal, (depending on.. model?) and well worth opting in for if the price difference is as little as that compared to the top two links.

I know for a fact your stock ECU can reduce timing if you use something like HPTuners to tune it. Or the car :p. Didn't you buy that traction control system for this eventuality though? It was a serious question about the bearing by the way. It turns out severe detonation can cause a bearing to fail, (ontop of all the other melted things that happen due to detonation) or something being stupidly rich could dilute oil to the point where bearings fail. But I think that's a 'bad tune' as much as fuelling your car with vegetable oil and morning fresh instead of 98/E85 is 'bad fuel'

Sorry, how do you ... tune.... a bearing?

No, recently I saw someone put a R34 N/A up for sale on FB. One of the swap offers was a 2013 370z. That is the smart option.

This is why I wash my car after it has behaved. Otherwise you wash it, want to drive it, and then drive it 500km through bugs and all sorts of crap. (and/or just leave it dirty)

Or buy my car. That said, I don't think I'd sell, because I know what it'd take to do it again. Really you're buying/building a complete car from scratch that just happens to have the body you like. It is never 'worth it'. It is far more sensible to sell it as is, then go buy a Mustang. MUCH easier, and cheaper too.

Road car, Borg Warner is the only answer. Anyone who thinks anything responds great has not felt the transient differences that That Ti-Al wheel provides. The turbo is the single most important part of anything. The right turbo will have much more effect than going from 2.6 to 2.8L.

Great! So this is a 355/350 kit with Nissan OEM bolting onto my R34 with all of the pad options that an OEM car can provide instead of Attakd/G4/Ksport (which are all slightly different) trying to cross reference fkin everything. With OEM dust boots. In other words, exactly what I was hoping for! Do the calipers cost 10K+ like R35 GTR ones?

Is a R35 GTR BBK still a 15K adventure? Are there cheaper options available for this as an aside? After looking for replacement pads for my kit - OEM BBK's for pad selection seem great blah blah blah. Are there any other options?

Surely something tripping a 150AMP relay is a short somewhere?