Kinkstaah

I only had the one, and it didn't have a divided pulse to the gate. Whether this is true twinscroll or not, or whether it helped or not, or whether it made it entirely useless or not, I just don't know (and will never know) This was my dyno result though (on E85) Either will work, and the boring (but true) answer is your motor is going to last longer making less power. So you can tell yourself you went the smaller turbo for more reliability Given your engine bay was the same size as mine, I really did not like mounting the 7670. Even with proper 'bolt on' kits, I was never happy with how lines ran, how close hot things were to hot other things, how close wiring was (which melted), and blowing up my aircon line multiple times (yes), it was honestly a bit of a pain in the ass running high mount. Mind you, I was still running the standard TB. If you've removed aircon, you may have a FFP, your setup could be a little different too. So believe me when I say space is at a premium if you don't want to cut holes. It would be interesting for science to see what happens if someone (you) bolted a 7163 to the stock manifold (if possible) and/or low mounted the thing. You may not know the pain you are potentially dodging. Also no matter what you do, buy a 90 that you can use off the outlet. You'll need it. I am biased though. I gave the above away and have a 280kw setup with no turbo lag at all, and no turbo to speak of. Get aircon again. Make the car useful. Summer is coming. Rule #1 has got to be "make sure the car does not annoy you, and gives smiles instead". I now look at people who make 450kw and know the hassles that come with all of it, and smile and am happy to be off the crazy E85 crack train and running things at 101%. Go 7163, go simple, run under max threshhold, kick the shit out of it, put on aircon, listen to music, enjoy life. Both of these will work better than the Hypergear. Whether that is really worth the $10k it will probably cost all up is entirely up to you to evaluate.

The difference in my experience made this a must-do-mod. As in, get it installed before the end of the week for your track day for maximum results (if someone has one on a shelf) Locking rears before your fronts even apply their max force is as dumb as it sounds

I had a problem with rear brake wear. I don't remember the setup you have with regards to brakes. I have a front BBK and I would go through rear brakes at a ratio of 3:1! (not to mention braking was always exciting for me, but I didn't have a reference point for tracking a skyline) I upgraded my BMC to a BMC57. Problem very solved.

If you want to do it right, you have to do it right. I had a 7670 on my 2.8, with the 1.05 rear and T4 TS, EWG. My housemate had the 7163 on a SR20 0.85 rear, also T4 TS, IWG (with a fullrace kit) We both had results that had other people scratching their heads saying "omg wtf how so good wtf???" My housemate had issues keeping boost up top on his 2L, and he was using E85 as well to push it as far as he could up top. In other words, he needed a EWG to make the most of his setup, even though it made 335kw on E85. I do not think you will get 300kw out of one in a RB with a IWG on a 7163 on 98. (It is the same size as a GT/GTX3076r.) It will be awesome through the midrange though. You will get better results if you can get a decent manifold and EWG. Keep in mind if you go 6boost you will need to move/relocate/modify your aircon line in a R34, lest it explode on track.... The 7163 could potentially even be low mounted, you could run the T25 undivided on a stock manifold (or use an adapter?), you could run IWG to save physical space, but all of these will hurt you up top. It may be worth doing this, you could save coin if it all fits. It may give you the result you are after anyway and be simpler and easier. And simpler and easier has value in and of itself. You may find that being 'restricted' to 98, that trying to run the level of boost E85 users run into and have restrictions at is not applicable to your setup. You may find that running 19 psi on 98 through an IWG7163 is simple stuff. It just might make 287kw or something like that. If the car is a daily driven road car as you've said, this will be as good a setup as you can really get. The difference in on/off/part throttle compared to a GT, GTX, G Series, or Hypergear is night and day. You will understand this before you drive 20 meters down the street. The calling card of HG is that they do not need much if any fabrication to fit. The BW EFR will need it. It's a weird shape relative to everything else, so expect a new dump pipe, new intake, and all new lines with their complications at a minimum, and maybe a new manifold, Aircon lines etc.

Yea that was my initial thought too - I've seen many things go wrong with my car, but I have never looked underneath it and seen... that.

Well it may be clubsprint because "clubsprint" implies semi-pro-club-racecar, but you all know what I'm getting at. But it's not only the winning clubsprint car. At the moment you feel you need to put a livery on it, it is not a clubsprint car. You will never have a car like that do dual duties. I would put a god damned defect station at the end of pit lane for clubsprint if I could. I also have no qualms with seeing 911's/etc/etc being in clubsprint. Old mate trying to build a 'streetable' R33 GTST going up against a 911 is what people wanna see.. some of the most interesting content for a lot of people is seeing how the new C8 goes up against the new M4 on the same tyres. It's nurburgring laptimes/lightning lap all over. People love this stuff - AND it is attainable. But maybe it needs to be another event. But I feel this class is just absolutely not represented at all.

Yea, it's turned away from what it originally was, which is bunch of mates making car go fast and really really embracing the "World" aspect of "Fastest Cars in the World". I'd personally love the clubsprint class of WTAC ban any sponsorship decals on any of the entrants. It is _supposed_ to be a grass roots class. Either that, or have a flat out "street" class that has rules like that. It could potentially turn the whole thing on it's head and no longer have the 'glamour' of that world stage however. I could be biased, but I swear almost all of the viewers of this event are interested in how fast cars they know at random track days go against other cars. It's always "That guy Fred has a mental [Car]" and we all know who owns these things at various track days that people actually attend. Something that someone could own, mod themselves, conceivably drive on the street. As someone who's watched it for years, the only classes I generally care about at all, is Pro... and Clubsprint. And as you've alluded to, the cars in clubsprint nowadays really aren't even remotely close to a home built/solo built/someone's actual car that it implies it 'should' be.

Eradicating horrible driveline vibes, and horrible clutch vibes is definitely sexy. What turbo was it? From where? A lot of people's "My bigger turbo isnt as laggy" is also because they screw more boost into it in the middle, and get "more power at X rpm than before" which is not the same as lag anyway but...

Can I interest you in a V8 sedan with all of this stuff already fixed (some of it fixed from the factory?) 😛

I also replaced my old RS4's (about 4.5yr) with new RS4's. The difference was staggering... I would not be surprised that new zestinos do better than old AD08R's by the way, at least until they get some heat into them. That said, anything on the track is fun

I mean... a more-wrecked tyre can make a _car_ more wrecked though...

Why do so many f**king tailshaft makers have NO CONCEPT WHATSOEVER of TERMINAL RPM?

You wouldn't bother with it on a R34 Non turbo. They're _alright_. You got to remember, AU/JPN has had a 25 year head start on R&D and Skylines in the USA are going to be even more niche, weird, and rare on the ground than they are here. Especially R34's which were always considerably the rarest of the bunch. It'd be similar (identical exactly) to me looking for C5 Vette coilovers or mods in Australia. ... anyone wanna swap my V8 R34 for a Vette? Cmon do it.

As someone who is waiting on a bonnet and bumper of that style myself, I would very much love to confirm you didn't get it where I am waiting mine from.......

They are the same car in the engine bay forward, other than GTR panels and fixings etc. And GTR engine. Perhaps this isn't the best way to describe it to someone who is unsure. Yeah the headlights will bolt on. There's some slight differences in the reflectors, series 1, series 2 etc. But they WILL bolt in, the worst you will need to do some wiring. I found plugs to be different between S2 and whatever headlights I bought back in the day.

+1 (+2?) on RS4s. I recently replaced mine after about 19,000kms but they were heavily doctored, as in running higher pressure on the street, taking care of them etc, but they did see track work and some spirited hill stuff. It's definitely doable. That said, I have to use a NS2R if I want to go into widebody tyre fitting in the future, so maybe I'll opt for the 180TW for the road and go AR1 for track days in a world where I have enough money to say things like this sentence without laughing.

Nobody ever regrets it... There's probably some merit to go off the deep end and end up with a BMW DCT or ZF8 as above, but it's not really a viable path forward unless you bought the car with this kind of knowledge in your head from previous car endeavors and had the skills, money, and patience to pull it off. Given R34 N/A's are usually bought by young folks just buying their first performance car... this is statistically unlikely

Yes the box is different. The auto shop that pulled both of them apart from me back in the day was surprised how different they were internally. The pinout diagram for the TCU lines up with the pinout diagram for the GTT Ecu. It's not so much 'different' as much as it is integrated into the GTT ECU. The only auto mod you make on a NA auto box is you take it out and leave it out. It will not stand up to any power, even if you build it. Swapping to GTT gear is going to require extensive knowledge and study of the wiring diagrams. If you are paying someone to do this, it is not that feasible/cost effective. There is a reason 100% of people go manual. Don't want to go manual? Can't afford the conversion to go manual? Can't drive manual and don't want to learn? Sell the car. This is the ballad of the NA Auto Skyline.

You're not alone! I recently helped my brother get a new car and getting all those servicing things checked out and replace and freshed is not-too-strangely very satisfying!

I got a 2 piece tailshaft made for my T56 Magnum (T56) to R34 Diff for about ~$800 from Knox driveshaft services. I did supply the center bearing (which is now buyable). I had read that the uni's and center bearings were "non replaceable" but it turns out they are available now.... or a generic version exists!

... single pieces go over critical speed in R34's. The calculation I did with mine was a single piece that wasn't made of any exotic material will go critical as soon as you shift into 5th gear (i.e 200kmh), after being very nearly at the limit at the limiter in 4th (i.e your 1:1 gear), so 7000rpm in 4th is 7000 tailshaft RPM. If you max out 5th gear (assuming 0.8 ratio) you now have 7000 / 0.8 = 8750rpm. A single piece for car like yours at a track like SMSP is going to have to be made out of some kind of exotic material or be a two piece. From memory mine was 50" Consult this image: https://www.markwilliams.com/images/critspeed.jpg

I had similar (though probably red herring issues) here with my LS1 on hot restarts, but it wasn't fuel related as much as it was IAT related. The IAT/density model is too aggressive at pulling fuel out when the air temp increases, so it was hyper lean for the first few seconds and cranking. You could solve this by adding a ton of fuel (as above) in hot conditions, or by correcting the IAT curve or the calculations or whatever is available in the ECU.

So yeah all of this is gone now with the exception of the R33 clutch slave and a R34 GTT Brake Master Cyl.

I mean yes what you are saying, but more modern ECU's do indeed use wideband. But you can't just employ a wideband where a narrowband is wanted and assume it's all going to be good (which is what you are saying) Haltech, Link, and even the OEM LS1 ECU can indeed use a wideband (in addition to narrowbands) and utilize it/report on it, give you very useful tuning data based on it. (examples being commanded AFR vs Actual/Measured AFR in % so you can then make changes to the base map etc.) This discussion with regards to closed loop O2 is making these changes on the fly in Haltech and similar ECU's. The LS1 ECU I have to go and input the 'errors %' back into the base map as appropriate. Which is as easy as copy/pasting the resultant figures ontop of the base map as a percentage.

Damping has a lot more to do with it than spring pressure. Maybe. I don't know. All I know is I got my Bilsteins revalved by Bilstein (they'll do it if you ask lol) and had a chat with an Engineer with regards to what I want and what I want to focus on. They drive entirely different now even though they're on the same springs as before. I would say that 13kg/mm springs are entirely fine, if the damping is matched to them. Which obviously they should be if you're out there designing shocks and springs and selling them TLDR: Damping has a bigger effect on ride quality and I think is the magic sauce between a 'good' and 'bad' coilover, not spring strength, based on my sample size of 1.