Kinkstaah

... single pieces go over critical speed in R34's. The calculation I did with mine was a single piece that wasn't made of any exotic material will go critical as soon as you shift into 5th gear (i.e 200kmh), after being very nearly at the limit at the limiter in 4th (i.e your 1:1 gear), so 7000rpm in 4th is 7000 tailshaft RPM. If you max out 5th gear (assuming 0.8 ratio) you now have 7000 / 0.8 = 8750rpm. A single piece for car like yours at a track like SMSP is going to have to be made out of some kind of exotic material or be a two piece. From memory mine was 50" Consult this image: https://www.markwilliams.com/images/critspeed.jpg

I had similar (though probably red herring issues) here with my LS1 on hot restarts, but it wasn't fuel related as much as it was IAT related. The IAT/density model is too aggressive at pulling fuel out when the air temp increases, so it was hyper lean for the first few seconds and cranking. You could solve this by adding a ton of fuel (as above) in hot conditions, or by correcting the IAT curve or the calculations or whatever is available in the ECU.

So yeah all of this is gone now with the exception of the R33 clutch slave and a R34 GTT Brake Master Cyl.

I mean yes what you are saying, but more modern ECU's do indeed use wideband. But you can't just employ a wideband where a narrowband is wanted and assume it's all going to be good (which is what you are saying) Haltech, Link, and even the OEM LS1 ECU can indeed use a wideband (in addition to narrowbands) and utilize it/report on it, give you very useful tuning data based on it. (examples being commanded AFR vs Actual/Measured AFR in % so you can then make changes to the base map etc.) This discussion with regards to closed loop O2 is making these changes on the fly in Haltech and similar ECU's. The LS1 ECU I have to go and input the 'errors %' back into the base map as appropriate. Which is as easy as copy/pasting the resultant figures ontop of the base map as a percentage.

Damping has a lot more to do with it than spring pressure. Maybe. I don't know. All I know is I got my Bilsteins revalved by Bilstein (they'll do it if you ask lol) and had a chat with an Engineer with regards to what I want and what I want to focus on. They drive entirely different now even though they're on the same springs as before. I would say that 13kg/mm springs are entirely fine, if the damping is matched to them. Which obviously they should be if you're out there designing shocks and springs and selling them TLDR: Damping has a bigger effect on ride quality and I think is the magic sauce between a 'good' and 'bad' coilover, not spring strength, based on my sample size of 1.

I don't know how it is up there in strange north land, but down here it isn't so much the TRACK but the event organizers. There's an incredible world of difference with how days go depending on the organization running them, even if the track itself is obviously the same track. Tampered for example, is utter garbage and you should do ANY track day with ANY other organization.

If you put the wideband where the narrowband goes in your exhaust you're just gonna have problems. I've had a couple of 4.2's (Yes, havent needed to upgrade to a 4.9 yet) for a decade and a half and they still work great/calibrated correctly. Every time I've seen someone have issues it's been sitting in a dump pipe 5cm from the turbine housing, not a meter+ down the exhaust on the correct angle they say to mount them etc etc. However yes if it is making active adjustments ALL the time in a Wideband closed loop type scenario, it pays to make sure it is calibrated correctly or has some failsafe to stop it trimming your fuel tables into strange, unsafe places. That said if you want something that compensates perfectly on the fly for temperature changes, or altitude changes...... ....... ....consider using a MAF.... like every OEM does.... 😛

See also: "unopened neo engine with 380-400kw" "Safe" will be determined by how little you use it.

That absolutely qualifies into the 90%.

I often explain this to people. The reason most people end up modifying their own car is that 10% is people like learning and tinkering, and engineering, and improving a system, and 90% is WORKSHOPS ARE SHIT.

Can confirm the ARD alternator works great.

I know this isn't the use case, but it helps a great deal coming out of corners when you have a bit of lock and a bit of power at the same time. It's kinda surreal to be coming out of a 30kmh (signed) bend in 1st and just plant it. or feed it in aggressively and not end up on an enbankment on your roof. Just gives a lot of confidence. Street Tyres just don't hook up that well, even supercars have troubles getting under the 4s barrier in the real world. You shouldn't 'need' TC for drag racing though, that is when tyres should be doing the work they're made to do!

Rookie. My iridiums lasted through engine rebuilds....

I had iridiums in my RB and they lasted a decade, through hell and back. You should routinely check them anyway... hence coppers aren't such a bad plan. They can be pretty easy to change in a RB which is why most people are OK with it.

Seems like putting a little electric fan in the tube before it hits the exhaust would make this do its thing properly 😛

What went wrong there? Similar in practice to driving around with no cat? Considering no cat shouldn't stink up the car given it's all going out the exhaust.... but it does.

I just re-iterate that you need to think about what you dislike, granular and determine what you would like in a BMW, in a granular sense. This usually results in people finding out what they really want/care about. You might find out you're one of those guys who wants to drive a luxury badge because you believe it says you've established yourself as an adult. You may realize that that is a non-tangible imaginary thing when you realise you don't respect other people more if they drive a BMW instead of a Kia. You may find that you do, which opens many more questions to yourself. In your post above, you haven't articulated any reason why the car "Sucks on the street" by the way. Other than a charcoal canister that you could.. fix. You even said Aircon works and the car is comfortable, makes a shit ton of power and is fun on the track, and you know its problems (which every car has) inside and out. My brother wanted a Maserati. He has a Kia and a Honda now. He is far happier, a changed man. You probably had the same visceral reaction to "Maserati" that I did. Your BMW scenario is potentially not too different! It does make sense to build a car the way you spend your time with it. Pretty SAU 101

Depends on what your traces show obviously, but in my application with 10% slip, you literally cannot feel any traction loss at all. There's no intervention feeling, and you don't feel like you've lost it, even though technically you are doing a skid. It does feel like you somehow don't have as much power, but that's because you don't have as much tyre as you could

I have when I was getting my car tuned. I have cutout pipes but my setup is not everyone's setup. I.e I have a lot less restriction being a N/A V8 with twin 3nch exhausts into a 3.5 with no turbos sitting in the way in the headers.... I lost no power and the AFR's did not change. This is swapping two 400 cell cats out (one each bank) with a straight pipe. Said pipes sit in a box now probably forever.

So fix fuel fumes everywhere, make sure your aircon and sound systems work, and get a comfy seat. All for 1% of the cost of a M3 and have a funner car to drive!

Why? There's no reason it needs to suck on the street. What have you done here? Undo it!

I didn't know @Dose Pipe Sutututu worked for RaceTCS now!

I am sure he will man, but having the menu structure from the V2 app with V3 settings jammed in there should be fun. Obviously I'm curious to see how this all turns out. How did the logs look? Are your wheels following the laws of physics?

It's not so much firmware. There's two entire versions of the software. Perhaps (?) there is versions of the hardware too. Your numbers don't match the defaults that are in either version. You gotta start from a correct baseline before doing anything else

From: http://www.racetcs.com/files/RaceTCS V2 User manual.pdf From: http://www.racetcs.com/files/RaceTCS V3 User manual.pdf There's two versions, unsure if the actual hardware you have is different or whether you just have the older software. The actual PDF describes what the functions do pretty well, so I'd just be retyping it. Your settings ARE different to the default (you've got a mix of V3 and V2 defaults?) which they put a disclaimer in saying that most people don't need to change them. Interestingly, unlike the Racelogic which gives you actual misfire patterns to program in, the RaceTCS looks to use PID's (like an electronic boost controller) to program its interference with your powah. Step 1 would be to go for a drive, log the wheel speeds, make sure they are actually reporting correctly (unsure if you have done this, it says in the documentation to do this too). Step 0 would be to make sure you have the default settings for the piece of hardware you have, and the piece of software you have. From what I can read your assumption is correct, that 95% max cut means it'll cut at most, 95% of cylinder ignition events which as you would know makes the car run pretty sloppy lol. I suspect what is happening is the PID settings are incorrect and the system is cutting 95% of power when it should be trying to cut 5% of power, or a wheel speed sensor is doing weird things, and you have a scenario where you have three wheel speed sensors reading 40kmh, and one wheel speed sensor reading 197kmh, or 0kmh, and you need to confirm this isn't happening first , and make sure EACH WHEEL IS ACTUALLY THE CORRECT WHEEL. The easiest way to do that is to go around a roundabout and make sure your outer wheels are reading a couple of kmh higher than your inner wheels. If you're breaking traction and the system thinks it's your front left doing a skid then everything is going to be quite upset.