Kinkstaah

You know you can buy a crate built motor that makes 350kw for less than that, yeah? And it's N/A?

Did the ADR approve the seats and the rails? (i.e were they a factory option?) If not, illegal because seats not officially tested in a crash etc.

Mate has a centrifugal charger with an atmo bov. Vrrrrr -TSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. Sound like real old school public transport. I.e a steam train.

I would also like an answer to this. All I ever heard was "Yeah no good idea because its an OVERDRIVE GEARRR" but I don't actually know why. Also hardly any other option. Drive on a track that maxxes out at 200kmh? 3rd seems to be the first gear to go in Skyline boxes for some reason. I don't remember anyone ever exploding 5th due to it being overdriven but maybe someone will chip in.

That sounds about right for that power at that track. (allowing for some accuracy with the speedo in general).

I can't remember. Did you put a cam in yet? Otherwise there's other considerations to be made for boost. You can't just boost a standard LS to 370kw, you need springs and pushrods and other head.. stuff, to make it actually work and not be a floaty mess. Centrifugal charger is the simplest, best way to go if you can retain your accessories. Less of an issue as you don't want track work, but running a FMIC and keeping intake charge down is cool and a major advantage of them. People say "lol but then you have nothing down low" but you have a v8. It has plenty down low.

Cooler? Nothing - Unless your IAT actually changes as a result of it. I've seen people spend big on an intercooler for an 0kw difference. IWG to EWG will make a considerable difference as this actually changes boost. Presumably though if you're already MAP based going from say 16PSI IWG to 16 PSI EWG won't change much, you're more likely to notice that your 16PSI is actually holding rock solid to 7500RPM whereas it may not if 16PSI was your target on an IWG (i.e as hard as you could max it out). You may notice something by holding boost better. Most people go EWG when they cant hit their desired target with IWG.

Do you have a 2nd SR20? Because you did say 'reliable' and 300kw, and 200k on it. The smart answer is be happy with the T28 and make 200kw or thereabouts and enjoy it. There's so many options for all of those categories and any of them will work. I.e Injectors: Any of them bosch based, thousands to choose from Fuel Pump: Anything Walbro (525 or whatever they are up to) - Make sure your wiring is up to the task, it will need upgrades. Cooling: Any FMIC will work of any decent brand. Some fabricators can avoid cutting up your battery tray and going through the kframe instead. Worth asking. Coil pack: R35 conversion kits are all the rage. Yaris coils less so. Could do new OEM (cheap) or Splitfires (OEM). Just get used to misfires on a SR20 basically. Stock gearbox? Will it take 300kw - I know the S15 6 speed doesn't - I don't know about the S14. RB25 gearbox is common upgrade. 370z CD009 boxes as well. Turbo - G25 550 if you really only want 300kw. Go external gate. Manifold? Anything that suits that. Surely 6 boost has something. Surely Full Race has something if you truly don't mind spending extra. Smaller is better because lines and clearances to them not melting will make you sad otherwise. ECU - Anything that the tuner can tune. Tune it yourself I say, because no tuner gets everything 100% - Noone pays the hours to get everything perfect. Why do you want 300kw? Have you done 100 track days and want to knock 1-2s off by upping the power? No? Just want clout somewhere? Cheapest way is to not mod a car and photoshop up a dyno graph. Will be happier. You won't get much change from 20K for this. And then your engine will explode. Sell the S14 while COVID Prices are high, this is the smart answer if you want a fast, well performing, reliable car - The cash the sale gets you is the fastest and easiest way to get it.

Re: 4k NZD GT (if actually real, I suspect there's hidden costs here that will come out to very similar total costs of GT's in your area...) Thing is, if you had all the parts, all the know how, and all the experience to do an engine swap, you'd definitely pay the 20-25k NZD and get the GTT. Parts availability and Prices are shit now. What's your time worth, too? Be better to buy that cheap GT then put something else in it entirely. Like a LS. Then you could also just buy my LS converted car, and save money. The sensible options have been laid out for ages, from years of people exploring these avenues with experience Listen to them lol Or don't, and make the same mistakes they/I did.

Are you sure you don't want to go manual? If you do, I have a fresh T56 with 6 neutrals, all ready to go after my track day today!

Ye, this is also a symptom of having combustion gases (not turbo boost, but still sorta kinda boost in a way) in your coolant. Typically through a gasket but in my case it was through the block 😮 I recently bought a rad cap funnel kit and oh man they are great. Should have been the first tool I ever bought.

I think with 2020 prices (demanded, not sure if sold) you'd be better off buying a new mustang or something 😛 I doubt nowadays anyone savvy would be letting go of any of the skylines (let alone GTR's) for anything under 40k it seems.

All of the advice above is valid. Consider a 1 way diff instead of a 1.5 way if you're shopping Nismo. I had a rare working viscous center and honestly it was nothing but a downgrade to go a mechanical diff. Note: Rare working VLSD, and I suspected it would stop working plenty fast. 300kw and full throttle in 1st/2nd gear is just not a thing in a Skyline on road tyres. You must learn to threshhold accelerate 😛 You can make it 'better' (bushings, diffs, tyres, turbo choice/how boost gets ramped in) but it'll never be fully eliminated. The best answer for this is boost by gear which is an option on most modern ECU's if you want to just plant your foot in any gear with no consequences 😛

Or the brakes! But generally yes the bars at either end affect how the pedals rotate the car 😛

Due to my lovely partner working for Ultratune, she called in a favour at Bob Jane (after I went there incognito and they couldnt help me, though they tried) They then offered to smash sockets for $50, then found a 7 sided 17mm socket which they gave to her to loan out to me for free. This took many many hours of not quite fitting, attempting to smash sockets on again, but we eventually got it settled like this. Behold our special tool Yes, the power of a cut up hose clamp and sticky tape made it get 'stuck' enough to break the nuts loose and now my wheels are again free. I will be very happy to pull them off again soon to swap the fronts and rears and put in some track day brake pads where my car will definitely not break and I will have a fantastic, happy day.

This is a 1 way 😛 Good example though! 😛 but yes when selecting a diff.. "1 way" or "1.5 way" or "2 way" is very much like "Stage 1 turbo". There's not really enough information there.

The thing is, all 1 ways, 2 ways, 1.5 ways etc are all 2 ways, just with different ramp angles. If you want to go down the rabbit hole, go asking for ramp rate specs on diffs. Nismo actually only make a 1 way and a 2 way diff. I'd wager that's the same for most manufacturers. The "1.5 way" people are talking about is likely the 1 way, i.e the 45/90 ramp diff. (45 accel, 90 decel). My old "2 way" diff was also a 'real' 1.5 way with ramp angles of about 45/60. Are other 2 ways true 45/45 '2 way' diffs? You'd have to ask. As for what is best... well, it really depends a lot of your driving style.

17mm. 17mm 6 sided socket could be hammered on. 17mm 12 sided socket slips over 16mm 12 sided socket does not slip over and cant be hammered on (oh I have tried) 5/8 would probably be perfect to hammer on, if it was 12 sided. My 6 sided 5/8 won't be hammered on. And by "my" I mean my gf's tools because mine are are no longer mine. I have been to about 8 tyre shops now to no avail, and done a lot of hammering, also to no avail. Got one of those lock nut removal kits which would work, if they were deep socket removal kits, which they also aren't. Bonnet being fixed on the 11th and yeah, track day on the 17th makes this a less "fun" level of general f**kups that I am accustomed to!

Someone broke into my car and conveniently stole all my tools out of it. I am currently on the search for anyone in Melbourne who can remove my wheel nuts (so I can change my brake pads/rotate my tyres for the track day on the 17th) It is not looking hopeful and all other avenues regarding smashing sockets onto the nuts etc have failed. Good times.

I just ended up spending a big amount of $ on the header armor indicated here I also got a good amount of the stuff they sell that goes around (but not completely) the exhausts, which I'll run between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the car, if that makes sense. I got enough of that material to do the entire exhaust on a nearly 5 meter long car with 2 exhausts. All in all about $650 of material, and yeah headers have to come off to install it. Also looking into having an airbox made, and sussing out potential fan replacements from the trusty AU fans. So all thats on the cards... at 'some' time in the future. This is actually the biggest difference I noticed with my sound deadening adventure. The delta between loud pedal and not on loud pedal is much more pronounced. When you get on to it, you really really get on to it, and yeah not gonna lie it's pretty great and makes hair grow on your chest, and face, and other body parts near immediately.

I ended up going off the massive deep end in regards to heat shielding but its good to know the blanket is holding up. Thermo tec usually make pretty good stuff supposedly. Keep the old exhaust if you can, if worried about canaries. Use your many years of JDM experience to your advantage 😛

The only consideration is you actually do run into flow issues on E85 at certain power levels (370ish kw) (at least on the "R34" ryco style filter). Tested with a brand new one, still dropping pressure. Went to a larger earls filter.

I liked that armor stuff! But yeah there's plenty of options when they arent on the car... removing manifolds is a 10 hour job or some ridiculous shit. I.e, if it's not on fire its probably ok. BTW you got the blanket from ebay? EMA had it in stock but it turns out they didn't.

So.... just putting the clamp around the runner not sufficient to hold it in place? Put the second ones there so they don't slide down pretty much?

It specifically says to face the "cloth" side to the manifold.. I can only assume it is more resistant to heat.. I have ordered some myself so I'm sure I'll be angry and annoyed at the whole procedure when it arrives 😛