Kinkstaah

Above post is good, but just to confirm, actually confirm that you have fuel, air, spark. Just because the ECU is attempting to fire the injector doesn't always mean the injector is being fired. As above, you may need to see what IAT is used when the sensor is unplugged, it will have a fail condition. The link forum may be of more help here. At this point (and the joys of standalone ecus) your link could be running any engine.

Woooosh. It is the button that notifies you that the buttons on the wheel to change gear are activated. The button that controls this function is next to the shifter.

I have managed to actually snap the knuckle twice when using a whiteline bar. (r34) So yeah the heavy duty sway bars up front, with the heavy duty sway bar links.... are really heavy duty!

I can see you've made another thread for a GTT engine and Gearbox. Probably get the driveshaft too, while you're at it. Given you have a N/A, you should know you have basically got a S15 rear end - So consider getting a helical LSD when you can. All of the GTT stuff/upgrades won't fit, ever. As for the driveshaft, I'm not entirely sure. If the DET gearbox is bigger, is it bigger in all dimensions? Are the flanges the same? Will the driveshaft fit? You will find data saying it will, it won't, or not sure. Only sure fire way is to check. This will apply to literally every part you attempt to put on a NA car considering parts for GTT are aftermarket. So much stuff goes along the lines of: You: Will this fit my car? Internet: Yes, absolutely, it fits Skylines You: Will this fit my R34? Internet: Yes, all skylines are the same You: But, R33 and R34 are different, will it fit the 34? Internet: Yes, it will fit the 33 and 34 because this part is shared You: [doubt]. What about R34 series 1, vs Series 2? What about Turbo vs N/A Internet: ghosts One thing's for sure though, do not spend one cent on the non turbo engine, or non turbo gearbox. At least you don't have HICAS though! The main thing the point is, there's so much stuff to do (how about you replace EVERY suspension bush?) to keep you busy by the time you want to touch the motor at all you'll be well and truly over it. If you start doing the maths sooner rather than later you could just go buy a V8 mustang or literally any other superior car by the time you're done and of age to legally drive it. Expect to pay twice as much and put double the work in to get a car about 90% as good lol. The hard truth is everything you have done, thus far, from when you first bought the GT to where it is now, even if you literally sprayed every panel yourself, learned how to spray paint, bought all the gear, personally massaged and sanded every panel by hand.. Is like 5% of the total amount of work to get a project like this done. People aren't being haters, they've just done the other 95% and wouldn't recommend it again lol.

It's not a troll, but its a combination of inexperience really, which is fine, we all start there. The first thing any cop will look for is a 20 year old import with a P plate on it. The problem is a non turbo skyline, of any kind, in any form, is a completely shit performance vehicle. Get an 86. Turbo that when you're legally allowed. Source: Had NA+T, then 2.9 liter stroker kit (is yours brian crower too?) then built auto, then manual, then 5 different turbo choices, now have Legal V8. Any idea you could possibly have, has been done. Some people like myself have done all of them! You should listen to these people. Alternatively, make mistakes and waste money. These are solved problems by now.

I have managed to fit 265's all round on 18x9 +30's on all 4. There's a ton of room for more rubber at the back, I have something like 35mm of inside clearance. Fronts are pretty tight, in a "Yeah you'll need to get it rolled/yeah you'd better think about relocating the loom under the driver side fender" kind of thing. I used to have 18x9.5 +27 with a 265 there too, unsure as to which setup went through the plastic. Maybe both did, and maybe a 255/35/18 is a better idea on the front ?

From memory (and chatting to a friend who entered clubsprint) it was something like you can't *replace* a guard with a factory guard, i.e a bolt on front flare is disqualified, but cutting up a rear OEM guard to add a fibreglass extension *was* allowed. This resulted in some dumb cutting of an OEM front guard to make it fit the same space that a bolt on replacement would not fit. I don't think there's much "wrong" with a S13 given how well they have done with the MCA car. Some cars are easier to drive than others and old R and S chassis require a bit more from a driver than a more modern vehicle. Turbo hondas have always been a force to be reckoned with for any clubsprint event, and so have evos. When you look at SMP it'd be like holding a track day at PI, that may or may not assist certain cars over others.

Sadly this is definitely damage that will cost more than the entire cost of the car to fix.

Har har, yes I did infact mean four catalytic converters ?

It's already over the limit. Decatting will do nothing for performance, I have *four* cats in my car and removed them all for testing and picked up exactly 0kw.

Did Sandown on Sunday. Engine didn't blow up. Utterly destroyed brakes and drove home metal on metal style yet again. 8/10 would recommend.

The above info is right. A pod filter is an upgraded air filter for the engine, so you kind of already have that. The stock turbo is metal wheeled in a S15 so it can handle higher boost pressure and as above, 190-220kw is doable depending on how hard it is pushed and what fuel you use (E85 vs 98 etc). Get a good solid exhaust, good solid intercooler, I too don't know if injectors and pump are up to the task of maxing out the standard turbo, but a modest goal like yours should result in actual happiness and a fun vehicle that isn't constantly broken. Try to resist the urge to go mental and impress people on the internet with a car that sounds great on paper but can't be used for anything cause constantly broken, which is a very real thing that people with big power cars kinda don't disclose very freely.

You forgot "sometimes it all just fails and they get drilled out and helicoiled"

As a previous R34 auto owner who did all the ECU stuff mentioned before, I prefer LS6 and TR56. (it's easier to install than a TR6060)

You can get aftermarket ECU's that will take control of an auto gearbox. You can seperate it out from the neo ECU (or run a haltech, other standalone manual-only ecu). You can repurpose the steering wheel buttons to do other things (such as, shift up/down as an input on an aftermarket transmission ECU). That said, don't. NFi what will bolt to a RB that isn't a RB. People definitely can though (plenty of auto 2 and 3 speeds for drag on RB's) but lol I can imagine the pain of trying to get a ZF 6 speed working with a RB. It would be easier to just put a LS and it's auto or a Barra and it's auto in at the same time and massively more advisable than just doing the gearbox.

If you ever sell this diff/halfshaft combo, do let me know lol

The odds are so ridiculously high that 2 adaptronics and a Haltech spontaneously explode that it is way more likely Racepace fked it up bigtime (and caused all 3 to die). This is also obviously pretty damn unlikely, but it's more likely than 3 ECU's randomly failing instantly. ECU's breaking at all is extremely rare, and almost always due to install error.

This is true. 99.9% of Skylines now are some variant of Grandfather's Axe/Ship of Thesus. Condition and kms are nearly completely disconnected nowadays. Nearly ?

But... yes* In the scenario you described, it should open, barring some scenario where the vac line on the wrong side of the gate (if it has two, etc). This is likely why GTSBoy said test it off the car to make sure it actually can open.

They actually do make a fair bit of noise lol, I'd say they are exactly this spooly. video-1575365338.mp4

^--- this. The Nissan OEM gasket is a league better than almost any other alternative gasket you can get. Have seen other brands of modded cars opt for the Nissan Gasket over their own OEM one or aftermarket ones. The studs and nuts that hold on the turbo however are a complete PITA and you will constantly need to check and re-tighten them because this is 90's turbo life.

You know, I once lost my license in QLD but I was able to keep driving in Vic, just to throw it out there. Though this was due to a speeding fine in QLD, which was paid, but because they couldn't find my license in QLD they just banned me from driving there for 3 months, going by the letter they sent me back home in Vic. NFI if that applies or not, because I didn't get pulled over in the subsequent 3 months in Victoria, and the demerit points did find their way to my VIC license, so I guess they found it in the end? This was in 2014.

But you're entirely unfamiliar with turbos out there? You have a lot of research to do. Kings of the Castle are the Garrett G series or Borg Warner EFR. I would err on the side of the Garrett for livability reasons. They're physically smaller for the same power. They are fairly spooly. You won't care either way given how much better performance they would provide over a T04Z.

400+kw on that setup is going to involve swearing unless it's one of those builds where everything is actually setup correctly and it doesn't run out of fuel, spark, air, or things start popping off, getting too hot, or some combination above. My bet is medium swearing and "We almost got there but one thing can't quite make it"

Anyone want to buy my Megane? Best car I've ever owned lol. Back to Regrets and Regression over here now