Kinkstaah

That's the thing, I'm pretty certain something is cut or unplugged or what have you. Happened since an engine swap . Was looking for info as to where everything should be, the only thing I have to go on is the pinout diagram on the SRS ECU behind the handbrake, which is I guess what I'll have to do It was working prior to the engine/transmission swap, would be odd for an entire module to just go missing.. but was trying to find info on where it would be... Probably! The epic autoelec did try and read this, but it didn't actually throw an error, which according to the workshop manual says voltage to the system is under 9v Which could easily mean a wire is snipped........somewhere

in all seriousness holocaust stuff isn't funny, its only funny because of how absurd and so on it is, and its that absurdity that is the funny part anyhow, Airbag wasn't triggering on car prior to it receiving my original engine and transmission and ECU's. It is now. However, the SRS system is supposedly a self-contained system/unit with its own sensors, wires, and so on. Changing an engine shouldn't trigger it from what I can see going by the workshop manual. Everything is that distinctive yellow, and there's a plug where the stock audio is, except this one is bright yellow. However it terminates short and there's nothing obvious to plug it into. Unsure if unfortunately coloured or god knows what. Dunno if its even for the airbag, but its suspicious because nothing else was altered and the system won't even enter diagnostic mode to give me flashing lights to find out whats wrong with it all. Given this mystery plug is behind the head unit figured someone may have seen it before when they do something like... change a head unit which is pretty much done in every single skyline in australia

No, it was at very low speed and hit it at the rear... and this is an entirely different car now.. Door button trick doesn't do anything. (wont go from 'user mode' to 'diagnostic mode') Nissan say that it wont go from user mode to diagnostic mode if battery voltage is under 9V. Battery voltage is 12.5v. There's also a god damned mystery yellow plug behind where the head unit goes. There's nowhere to plug this in. Anyone? lol.

fark that's bad whats considerably worse than the holocaust is a flashing airbag light autoelecs attempt and fail, recommend replace items that aren't broken (replaced anyway) Nissan workshop manual is inconclusive and provides not-possible diagnostic results google fails sau fails genocide is preferable

The blitz return FMIC kit will flow that much. I know this as I have that much and it flows it. It supposedly fits on a R33 as well as a R34.

I did this (to test something, I since have got a cat) and the only thing I noticed was a slightly different, more 'tinny' sounding note from the exhaust. The sound difference was negligible, and I don't think it was any 'louder' as opposed to just being slightly, slightly different note. I noticed no flames and/or popping but I'm on E85 and the tune wasn't set up for that, so it's not like an automatic thing that flames literally explode out the exhaust the second you remove the cat. I also didn't notice that "noticeable smell" that people refer to all the time with a cat removed - but I was on e85 which has its own noticeable smell to begin with.

Just incase someone finds this via google...or search.. All the headlight support parts (the black bits) are different on a S2 and S1 R34. The "Reo Bar" is the same, though. Here's my crap picture: http://imgur.com/nGuVPJ5 RED = DIFFERENT BITS ON S2 AND S1 (there's another under-headlight bracket on the side that isn't viewable obviously) GREEN = SAME PART ON S1 AND S2 R34. THIS IS THE BIT PEOPLE USUALLY CUT TO FIT FMICS. Hence the "is the reo the same on s1 or s2?" depends on what people mean by "reo" as the entire thing (reo+headlight supports) is often referred to as "a reo bar"

What you need is the headlight supports. (the black bits). The reo bar, the actual big massive metal bit in the middle is the same part for series 1 and 2. The headlight supports are different. A lot of people refer to the headlight supports as "the reo bar" or part of the whole assembly, so the whole "is it the same or different" can both be answered with "Yes" depending on who you ask. (and of course I have a front bar and reo for sale but its all series 2 )

Nope, there's no option on the stalk to engage foglights etc. Guess it's back to the drawing board as to the 'whyyyyyyyyyyyy' they don't work then.

It could be actually, that's what I'm not entirely sure of. I've found it hard to find out what the problem actually is, or an exact wiring diagram of how indicators are wired in.. it not being a fog light equipped car would explain why there's a missing plug and a loom which has no obvious disconnected plug attached to it...

..... warning button? I should state that the hazards work, the fuse is not blown, and there's actually very much a missing plug connected to the stalk. There's 2 of three things connected there and I'm pretty certain if I had a working R34 I'd pull the plug out and see if indicators continued to work... because everything else on the stalk works except indicators

Anyone ever have a look at an indicator/lights stalk on a 34? Is it shared with anything? Looks to have 3 plugs. One is missing. Indicators don't work. Except there's nothing on the loom that's unplugged. Only thing recently removed was a Turbo timer. The turbo timer had exactly 0 plugs involved with it at all. What in the actual f**k.

I'm sure there's plenty of different shades of boring shit to amazingly out there. People just take note of the super blah beige personality and the extreme opposite of that (probably due to rebelling against option 1) of the chick with pink hair going all out stereotype. There's got to be in betweens, but so normal that they're just you know... normal people...

Literally have never been involved with an Asian in any way, nor likely to be... Guess I'd better strap on that Hi-vis and buy a jetski or something..

400, because, 400 is better than $500, for you! Also because shed is filling up with other R34 bits, and I'd rather park a car there.

FWIW when I tested my wideband (in the cat housing just before the mesh) vs the Dyno's one at Chequered tuning, there was literally no difference in what they were reading, so the difference between the Cat and the exhaust pipes at the back of the car is near-zero.

True enough for anything over 100kmh with a power run. The 97% of the driving you use a street car for however can be done with a wideband and some tinkering. The power runs is what the dyno is for but that is really only a small fraction of the time (money!) it takes for a tuner to tune the car, but I agree - it's no dyno replacement.

Widebands are the best. I also thought my car was running rich. Bought wideband. Observed AFR. Changed fuel maps to suit. Car running correctly. See also: Got tune. Cold start was terrible. Idle was terrible (17:1). Made 30 seconds of changes. Car running correctly. See also: Car tuned on E85. Corrections for 98 not entirely right (known). Get E58 or something in tank after tank swap. Made 15 seconds of changes in correction map. Car running correctly. See also: Changed injectors from 1000cc to 1400cc. Car not running correctly. Made 2 minutes of changes to fuel map. Car running correctly. GET A WIDEBAND

it really is

Everything is a coilover. The standard suspension is technically a coilover design. What I think you mean is an adjustable coilover kit. The suspension needs to match the rest of the cars mods and its usage. Given you said you only wanted 220rwkw you may be able to get away with a cheap coilover set and still get what you want. I personally take the 'do it once, do it properly' approach. Future you will probably thank you

I also have one Note: R34 auto boxes are so damn cheap that its way more cost effective, and simpler to just put another box in for the $150 they cost.

Is there any info anywhere as to how much the standard computer modulates line pressure? Does it go for "X" PSI or does changing the valve body result in it working in a "percentage?" eg, at 'low' load does it go for "50%" of line pressure, or a set PSI?. I am kind of assuming it does a percentage, otherwise upgrading a valve body would do literally nothing if the standard computer would control exactly how much pressure to shift with What you want though, is an aftermarket TCM for your transmission. Hopefully I will be able to see what the difference is running a big shift kit on the standard computer to one with a tuned TCM. In all aspects though, a big shift kit is usually just fine for the driver, passengers may complain, though. This is the case with almost any modified car mind you..

That last sentence makes me actually worried, just reading it on page 17 of this thread.. One does not simply add 6 degrees to the map and mess with the CAS

No, you need one of these -> http://store.haltech.com/default/can-devices/can-wideband-kits.html Whether you want 1 or two sensors is up to you Keep in in mind Mr Haltech says the sensor should be 1 metre from the turbo exhaust housing to avoid it dying too quickly. The stock one is clearly not 1 metre from the housing. Mine is mounted in my cat. Also note, haltech are out of gauges. So if you buy the set with the gauge expect them to say "shit we don't have a gauge" However the CAN controller has nicely labelled wiring for a gauge. Anything that reads 0v as 10 AFR and 5v as 20AFR will do. Playing with idle AFR and cruise AFR is fun. Btw, the PS2000 does everything in Lambda (you can change it to show "AFR" if you want). Which means the flex sensor does its shit, so you know 1.0 lambda will show as 14.7 AFR, regardless of if you have 20% E85 in the tank or 47% or 100%. So no need to wonder if 11.7 AFR is rich, or lean, or perfect if you're on 3psi at 67% E85 in the tank.

It isn't just that though Gearbox IS different (inside, had an auto guy literally laugh at the GT gearbox (after being built up by MV autos) whereas the GTT one he said "this is a muuuch better design and is quite nice" Driveshaft, diff is different. Bracing for everything is different. Have to ask why Nissan beefed it all up. So you could do what I did, which is a) replace GT engine with GTT engine b) replace GT transmission with GTT transmission c) replace GT brakes with GTST/356mm BBK d) replace entire suspension setup e) replace exhaust (the GTT one aint great but lol better than the GT surely) f) replace fuel pump/entire fuel pump wiring (its terrible in GT) g) replace diff Its not just the engine, if you want to put a GTT engine into a GT, and want it to work just like a GTT, you will end up replacing every major component with GTT spec (or better). Which means you end up replacing the entire car anyway. If you're going to do that, there's a simple, easy way to swap it all at once, which is buy a GTT.