Kinkstaah

Kudosmotorsports.... For all your Nissan parts when you don't have the numbers

Shockworks in vic is another option, prob between BCs and MCAs products. Would consider them if I ever get rid of my trusty (i.e.. expensive..) Sydneykid Bilkstein/Eibach setup

When you do your fast and the furious antics on this street, how far do you go? Are we talking 0-60 here or full quarter miles at a time? Just curious as to what interval to live my life by

Getting the car to run, and getting the car to run right are completely different worlds, too. Even if this car was running, and SEEMING to be okay, you'd still absolutely get it checked to confirm what seems okay, is actually okay. As someone said, fuel, air, spark. It's gonna be a guessing game as to which part of the system isn't functioning but every system is pretty much testable. As ben said... Car off the road for 3 years, and NOW super impatient to get it going?

The thought to just bin it all has happened many times, but I couldn't in good faith sell a disaster to someone else, it's just not the right thing to do. I didn't want to be that "someone" so.. one must keep trucking. Just... so many things wrong!

Yep, as funny as it seems, it's probably taken 5 years + of my life, and $25,000+ all due to someone's complete ineptitude. when you think about it, is actually not very funny at all..

I also supplied custom pistons, rods, crankshaft and an otherwise apparently working engine, with a lot of custom parts. Exactly who measures head studs? What do you compare them to? There's no measurements or dimensions on the ARP website, they don't just have sets of $400 head studs hanging around for no reason other than to just measure them up.. they thread in the block, they're labelled ARP, they came from an assembled engine and randomly thinking some muppet is going to install [something] into a RB instead of using the part made for an RB, for literally no reason isn't something you'd expect. Like, who would think you'd put in 2JZ head studs (or whatever) into a RB? And why wouldn't Subaru injectors work/check/be investigated? I have an American crankshaft and rods, custom pistons, Japanese oil pump, different cams, etc etc etc etc, the injectors aren't Nissan, or Mitsubishi, or OEM, running aftermarket computer, etc. People put LS2 coils into RB, why not Subaru injectors? I do suspect the wrong head studs is probably why the engine's gasket blew/head lifted in the first place which is why it went to Headspec to begin with, as I was very much over [removed's] work at the time. Given no one could really determine why it failed, other than the block looking like it had done 300,000km since the build and being ovalled, everything else 'seemed' OK. Maybe found the culprit now

Funnily enough the thread on them was much the same, it was the bit in the middle (dunno the proper term) that was quite different. It was also twice as thick and yeah, very confused when they were 1/2" instead of 14mm. Headspec didn't think to check them, because I had every other decent part and ARP Studs are re-usable and it's a safe assumption that RB25DET studs would be used in it. Well, apparently not a safe assumption at all!

more lols at my expense Found out why my head was lifting under boost, on cylinders 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6... .. the ARP2000 head studs I bought from [removed] many years ago are clearly not ARP2000 head studs for a RB25, and are 35mm longer... than genuine ARP2000 head studs. Also whatever they are is 1/2 instead of 14mm. WTS ARP Head studs...suit.... something?

I wish for the life of me to know what is IN the RE401B. It's not the RE401A, because that is the N/A box (so I am told), which I have also been told is "wildly weaker looking" than the GTT box. I had a N/A box that had been built by MV, then got a new GTT box which I suppled, apparently very different. It's also not the RE403A, cause that's different again. RE403A vs RE401B = ???????.

TIL all 90's nissans have stock head units and are unable to be changed in any way. See also: $50 reverse camera. TIL also my Nissan does not have 4 cup holders!

The difference in cost for a 'reliable' 300rwkw and 'reliable' 400rwkw is well known for the engine. It also applies to gearboxes

Buy my entire gearbox and flex plate and torque converter and PCS so I can buy a manual conversion. Wouldn't even be mad, at this point... that's how much money you have to spend to get comparable to what comes standard in a skyline for $0.

Happy to ship anything

You sure you're a hipster?

It is, but VB is kind of unique in its shittiness outside of this scenario, and its relative goodness in this scenario. It's kind of similar to the relationship between being drunk/hungover and McDonalds

I'm 95% sure that I do - But these are headlight supports for series II - They are not the same for a series 1 front bar, and will not fit

VB is a strange beer, it exponentially gets better based on how hot the day is, and how cold the beer is. This is an undisputable rule of the universe, no matter how uncomfortable.

I do listen to Michael, who pretty much agrees with anything we've thrown out there. Yes, a GTX3076R in a .82 is small for a 2.8, but it isn't small to the point where you smash an engine to pieces... people run them on Supras. (went bigger anyway) It is your dyno plot, but this SR is also internally gated, low mounted, stock manifold and bleeding off to about 16psi up top. It is a very similar setup man. It may have been 2nd gear it decided to slip around on, but it was very much under the (50kmh!) speed limit on a side street, rolling onto boost when it happens, very very very long way from any clutch dumps! My point was is that "if you have 2.5L you can't ever go back to a 2.0 in an evo or SR" and I reckon nah man, the difference would be miniscule given the cars these engines are put in. I reckon they make more power/torque/whatever per cc than a RB does

Out of curiousity (slow day at work, I plotted his dyno chart vs your dyno chart....both at racepace!...) and made this little excel graph really not much in it lol, the part that does is him dropping down from 22 to 16psi at the top end.

Well given the car pretty well at DECA and long wang on 1st attempt, and... every Silvia driver that's ever got in it has gone "oh shit, this is how I need to go setup my car" I'm gonna wager with nah. Unless every RB is setup badly in comparison, it really makes me think the whole SR20,4G63 > RB20 thing really just continues to manifest with the RB25/26 using the extra 500/600CC to make up for the shortfall And this in comparison to my (older, laggier!) dyno result which is here -> which most would say constitutes "quite responsive" for a RB http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2014/post-63726-0-07556500-1401681661.jpg

A combination of boost threshold and transient throttle response It is too much power at too low throttle input/speed/rpm for the tyres to handle, so any more of any of that = wheelspin and thus not actually beneficial at imparting forward momentum!

Unpopular opinion here sure, but I reckon without a doubt one of the best mods you can do on a RWD car Re: Responsive SR's and such, I was quite surprised as I was just putting around at the time. I did think as mentioned "ah okay, I can see why they drift these things" after being surprised and shitting myself. The car does actually grip quite well otherwise, though. Just didn't seem to require any more response because any more response is more than the tyres/suspension setup can actually handle, making it literally useless..

I was pretty surprised. Car is running 265 Hankook Ventus RS3's too. Really, REALLY had to feather 1st and 2nd to get it to 100, it was really quite eye opening. I thought my car had no grip (to the point of spending big bucks on a aftermarket traction control system.. which rocks) But yeah. I was like fark damn okay. I know your car makes.. 275 with change on a RB25 from memory (pretty much entirely from forum stalking), I would be surprised if it actually felt more responsive than the 260KW SR20, but this may have something to do with car weight. Not saying there's no difference, I mean I noticed the difference from 2.5 to 2.8! But there isn't a LOT by any means. Yeah, the previous engine had a lot of issues presumably by who it was built. Just having HS put it together resulted in basically having the effect of another stroker kit ontop of it. I made the same power with 10 deg less timing and 8psi less boost, with a good 500rpm better response. Then it let go. ARP Studs specify 90ftlbs and they put 80 on the blueprint, and it lifted/warped. I suspect the issue was always there mainly because I couldn't actually bleed the f**king thing since I got it, but figured "it'll be OK" until I was emptying a radiator every time I gave it a bootful. (driving it normally around was fine) I used the head gasket they recommended, which was a 1.1m Permaseal one cause wanted 9:1 CR. Spent the money on a Tomei one this time around, and re-bought head studs so I can confirm a million percent what the f**k is in there.

tbh I have ordered the gasket and studs but they haven't arrived yet. Will be keen to see what actually happened, as it was picked by my keen spidey sense of "SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT" which has been honed by destroying everything over the years. I may end up going a 1.06 rear "just because" because HS believe that I've lifted the head due to backpressure, even though you'd think a .82 on a GTX35 would be enough to get the air out. But then again, who knows what'll happen once it comes apart. I will be pretty keen to see what studs were actually in the engine, if they were ARP2000's after all then they were under-torqued on the blueprint. If its only that, I'll be a happy f**kin camper lol