GTRgeoff

Ahh sounds good Dan. I know of a few 33s with PFC on the auto and they are fine. In fact one was running over 300rwkw for a while with no problems, even had the box pulled down and it was in perfect condition. Find the story by Dangerman. As for the workshop just mentioned, a large number of club members have been royally f*cked by them to the tune of thousands and unfinished/poor quality work. Send a pm if you want names of the very unhappy customers.

Thanks for the link. Hot version vids are fun, I haven't watched one for ages.

Tough failure Alex. Usually you can guarantee a broken ring land is due to detonation, so get that tune looked at after the rebuild mate.

Bryn, go the PFC route mate. Tried and proven. It was a recent topic for discussion and as I understand it there is no-one competent in Brisbane and the usual suggestion of Dr Drift...edit: I've spoken to a few people regarding his tunes, and some that I have a decent appreciation for their recommendation think it is worth looking at. Apparently he will be back up this way soon. I have a degree of issue with remapping a stock ecu as you generally find after a tune there are a few problems here and there. Without anyone local that is competent, how do you fix this in the short term? There is of course Mick at Signature here in Ipswich for PFC. Have it all ready to go, book a day and let him go to work.

This whoretown? Ever so dead.

Must be a 32 thing. On the 33 the AC fan kicks straight in even when cold. On a 33 the only place is to put it there as the other side has the receiver dryer.

Everyone's in the fun hotown, completely off this dead dog.

S'alright Al, just winding you up mate. I know how protective you are of your favourite mechanics Nice looking engine Steve. Which balancer is that on the front?

Very popular mod that one. I've done it myself but you have to take the AC thermo fan out. Then the AC doesn't cool properly when you are sitting still. I have the big twin ducted fans behind the Ally radiator so I just have to splice in the power wire from the AC thermo and it will run the thermo whenever required. Water temp has been up to 94 on Lakeside and the oil cooler keeps the temps down well but will still need another duct in front, like an N1. My thoughts? I like very much. BTW mate that engine is looking spectacular. Could do with a cool balancer though, and Dan @ elite racing can do you a great price on one. I'm getting one for the racecar soon and also one for the GTR when I get around to it.

What's happened? I know of some folks that have fixed their own. Crack it open and see what the problem is. Unless it is fairly new and still has some warranty on it.

Funkeh...........what would Chopper say???? HTFU!! Now get yourself organised and stop bleating.

Congratulations to you and the new mum mate. I didn't know. I trust both mother and baby are in excellent health. For the rear of the head I would use a machined block of ally. Either use a piece of threaded tube into the block and drill through it to allow oil to flow through then screw the block into the back of the head. It would be very low profile. Alternatively (and my preference) you can drill and tap some boltholes into the back of the head and use ultra blue gasket between the head and the block of ally and bolt it straight on. No pressure so doesn't need to be anything spectacular and the tappings can be fairly shallow. Then out the side/lower left/bottom of the ally block you can have the thread to connect the -10 straight fitting. The elbow is gone and the pipes can sit flush with some packing to prevent rubbing damage. Personally I would just pif all the standard Nissan delivery piping and go with flexible stuff to my own design as I have on the race car with the 26/30. I'd still do the low profile block fitting to accommodate engine fitting and removal, as well as gearbox removals. I'll get on with a broad concept diagram shortly mate.

Chris, I think it was more along the lines of making life easier for 32GTSts/GTS4s so the bonnet doesn't need to be reworked. The inlet and manifold on a 20 and 25 engine sit above the head, so they then contact the bonnet, or even the strut brace. In these cases it is better to go with a side inlet system instead of an overhead inlet. My preference was for the GTR manifold and throttles in the race car so the 26 head was the perfect solution. BTW I've costed the 26/30 out several times and not including the turbos and Y pipe I keep getting the figure of $6500 cost doing the labour myself and including outsourcing the machining (naturally as no-one has all the machining tools in there backyard). That includes the Spool rod/CP piston package from Spoolup (Brad). Add extra for a harmonic balancer, turbos, special exhaust manifolds and dumps, Y pipe (and yes, the GTS25t exhaust will bolt straight up to twins; very convenient) and any other cool stuff you really desperately need. The trick is to get the head and inlet system at a decent price. If you can get a complete head with all bits bolted to it then half the grief is gone. Then again there is absolutely nothing wrong (IMO) with going 25/30 for a sensational budget build.

Ummmmm....new dad??? Deren, with the rear fitting I think something along the lines of a block of ally shaped to fit and bolt-on or screw in with the -10 fitting coming into the side almost flush at the back of the head is pretty popular. I can zap off a drawing if you need it. About time I started doing some 3d design and engineering anyway.

I love mechanics Al. They are so afraid of trying anything new. 7 lap sessions of Lakeside in the GTR, which only has 320rwkw with the twin ducted setup never saw over 92 deg on a nice 29deg day. With a 50mm core that would drop right to the 85deg sweet spot.

Mark, I will try to give some notice. It still needs an engine, but the hard stuff is done. Spent the last 2 days driving about P1 customers and driver training them. Love it when they think you're just a driver and then give them a demo of car control....then tell them I'm retired but still shuttle the cars around as a favour. You can hear hearts breaking If you have to pay it....yes

Unfortunately the engineer in me, as well as the mechanic of 15 years says the glass is still half full, and I can always do it better and cheaper. Now we can't all do the same thing, as then there would be no surprises and no novelty, plus these folks would either sell lots or nothing. I'm suggesting a solution that can be both easy and economical. Approaching things in a different way is what made me secure and retired at 39. So it's not a matter of dollars, but ingenuity and ability. No product is perfect forever, and with electrical products there is a definite initial high failure rate and a high terminal failure rate toward the end of the life of product, so your expensive brand new bits could just as easily do damage early....even on the dyno, as the old factory items might. The fact remains it is extremely hard to destroy an engine through spark loss, while fuel system failure at the same power level is almost a guarantee of catastrophic failure. So how many have made their fuel system secure before the coilpacks were replaced ? I personally won't be satisfied until each high powered car I have has 3 pumps and a swirlpot. The coilpacks are far less of a concern to me.

Hi Shell Just trying to straighten out a few glass half empty attitudes The world can be a better place......the glass is either half full or is close to refilling lol Now I'll skulk off to my 40ft cruising yacht and shuttling cars around for the P1 Supercar club. Who said life had to be miserable after forced retirement. BTW should be down there soon. A friend is having the formal opening of her winery and restaurant Shepherds Run, plus need to drop in and say hello to my tenants. I'll try to lob on any activities that are on. And +1 for what sl33py said.

Hardly an issue. Buyer beware. don't get overexcited about it. You probably got less than a dealer would have sold it to him for so you both win. If this is a massive headache for you then give up on life now. Live, learn, deal with people. Such a typical ACT young generation attitude son. What would Chopper say????? I will never buy another car off a dealer, and nor will I sell one to them.

You can treat them for external sealing. It's only electricity so basic laws of insulation apply. I have never needed to add insulation and don't believe I will ever buy the expensive stuff. If I had to I'd run wasted spark external coil packs. I suspect most cracking occurs from washing the engine down hot and getting water around them. Last couple of coil packs were $15 each with a replacement guarantee for 30 days. Plenty of time to get her hot and run at night to look for shorts. But close inspection at purchase will weed out any problems. It's a bit like the low impedance injector dropping resistors. You can buy a nice pretty factory GTR one for anywhere up to 250, or a set of 6 high wattage resistors from an electronics store for $10 and they work exactly the same.

That would be www.timeattack.com.au that Paul runs. He also does specific Skyline track days for us. We should also have CAMS affiliation soon to allow for CAMS licensing for our members, which will be the cheapest club in SEQ for a CAMS license and affiliation. That will allow you to enter the hillclimbs and motorkhana events set up by other clubs.

Lakeside was dead set magical. As good a Phillip Island for sheer rush, it just keeps throwing itself at you so fast you have little time to deal with one corner before you need to concentrate for setting up the next. Easily one of the top 2 dedicated tracks in the country. It has been 21 years since I last raced Formula Ford there.....even scarier now I'm old and not bulletproof anymore

I've only ever replaced mine with stock cheaply from the wreckers. Don't need anything special for 500hp in the GTR, so why spend money I don't have to?

Just contact Rocket industries in Sydney. Look at their website (search) they are good for lots of performance stuff and will get it out fast.

The blue sealant lasts for years in other applications. You have to be very sparing for joining the interfaces between components and likewise the throttles. I recall Ben at Racepace Melbourne prefers the blue instead of paper gaskets as well.