LaurelPWR

Thanks for the epic reply man! Your a wealth of professional information and as always a credit to the RB community! I'm not actually trying to make a freakish custom 2835 turbo but I am trying to, from what I understand, turn a t3 internal gate HKS 2835 pro s into a t2 external HKS 3037 pro s and fit it to a t3 manifold using a flange adaptor... The 56t compressor side appears to be identical on both 2835 and 3037 Pro S

I should have added that I've had trouble with this turbo since i bought it... Apparently "new" ..... it's never held boost properly... Always drops off at around 12-14psi starts to drop drastically even with 21psi springs in a turbo smart actuator.... It's going to mr turbo to get looked at in the next months so if it turns out there's a fault with the cartridge of blades or something then I will rebuild with the bigger rear wheel and use the t2 housing

Anyone??

I'm thinking of putting a sr HKS 3037 pro S .74 a/r external gate rear housing on my current internal gate t3 .87 a/r 2835 pro S and putting the gt30 rear wheel on as well obviously.... I was going to use a mamba t3-t2 flange adaptor so I can maintain all my piping and have the external gate flange welded into the .74 rear and just a new dump made... Can anyone see any problems in this idea?

Both man.. Made 360whp on 98 @ 18psi and 400whp on e85 @ 20psi

I pressurise the whole system from the first joiner after the turbo all the way to the throttles at around 35psi... I also actually pulled each pipe off and blocked one end while fully submerging them in a tub of water. There was a pinhole leak but it was minuscule...anyway the gtrs was running beautifully even with the leaks but all fixed now to rule out any other possibility... I run a turbosmart kompact plumback bov just the cheap $170 ones... The gtrs never dropped boost off like this

Haha ummm yeah man I'm aware there's a problem... Just asking opinions on here to see if anyone else has had a random problem like the wastegate not sealing or maybe something else

Yeah man correct. This dyno is with the turbosmart actuator and 3 springs combo that equal 23psi.... The problem is it doesn't actually hold boost unless this spring combo is used! My hks gtrs had a 12psi hks actuator with a small amount of preload and it held 20psi from 3500 to nearly 7500 for the last year and a half

Yeah we did that too and same result..If the turbo is out of puff, why would it only get to 10psi on the hks actuator with like 10mm of preload and then drop to 0psi at 6500rpm while running no boost control ... These turbos never drop off like this from what I have seen in many others dyno runs.. Even with a heap of preload on one of your 1kg actuators it wouldn't boost higher than 11.5psi every single time and dropped to 0 just like the others

Hey man sorry forgot to mention that dyno printout is with boost control on! The other above info was all read from Mattys computer monitors whilst on the dyno and tuning was in progress... I don't have printouts unfortunately..

Yeah man no line connected and went 25psi then started dropping... And yeah was old and had been sitting for a while but was clearly unused

Have done numerous boost leak tests and fixed a few minor ones before it went on the dyno the second time and also checked for any leaks around the exhaust and she's all tight! Motor has been rebuilt 10,000kms ago with arp rod bolts/head studs, acl bearings, treated and prepped rods, Ross forged Pistons, cometic gasket, poncams, new lifters, performance springs, power fc, turbosmart eboost2, gtr itb's, 4 inch hard intake pipe, apexi pod, z32 afm, splitfires, 740cc nismo injectors, walbro 460 pump, hpi turbo manifold, exhaust is a stainless hks 2835 pro s dump pipe into a genuine stainless hpi split front pipe into straight through 3 inch exhaust with no mufflers or cat etc...... Runs United E85

It's been on the dyno twice now and doesn't want to make boost up top while running off actuator.. Boost went from 10psi to zero at 6000rpm so I replaced the hks actuator with a new hypergear 1kg unit and still only made 11.5psi and tapered off to zero by 6500rpm. Then I purchased a turbosmart unit with some extra springs. Installed it with 16psi springs and it actually made 16psi but still dropped off to 0psi by aroun 6500rpm! Tuner then loaded the actuator with 23psi of springs and boost still drops off massively... Dyno is red, green and pink. Ignore the blue and brown as that is some of the old gtrs tune settings just for a comparison.... When it has no actuator or boost connected it spikes right up to 25psi and starts to drop again by 6000rpm .......maybe the Waste Gate flapper isn't sealing properly ...fiik Ideas anyone??

The previous cylinder head never made lifter noise until Nisspro rebuilt it... It later cracked anyways and was completely replaced with all new head and lifters but the problem persists ...

This makes me a lot more at ease man thanks... I'm still going to replace the thermostatic oil cooler sandwich plate with a new Grex item... Thanks for the replies everyone !!

Will post a dyno for each as well all on a s1 rb25

For anyone who is interested...and no real reason...if not allowed, delete.

the noise stays for anywhere between 10 to 60 seconds on cold starts then goes away but its still there when revs are given... if hot start and there's ticking, its there when revs are given as well and i forgot to mention my power fc knock reading goes up VERY noticeably when/while there lifter ticking

heres a video i just shot now... new lifters 3 days old, driven twice, cold start.. oil3.MOV

the gold one goes on the engine block and is thermostatic and has two long lines running out of it to a cooler... the bottom half of the blue one screws onto the gold one where the oil filter would normally go so the filter is now relocated.

Bought the car blew head gasket and never had lifter noise. Had a certain dodgy Gold Coast workshop rebuild the motor and had lifter noise mostly on cold starts but not every start and sometimes when starting at operating temp. Motor failed after about 6000 kms and had it rebuilt at a much better and trusted well know shop and made more power and smoother running... STILL LIFTER NOISE same as before on start up mostly cold starts and sometimes on any initial start up at temp and getting more frequent as weeks/months pass. Sometimes start up at the servo after refuelling and lifter noise..so turn it off and restart and still lifers... Repeat until can't hear them and then drive out. This was getting embarrassing so I just thought stuff it! Bought 24 brand new oem Nissan lifters $$$ and a set of performance springs/retainers and had them installed a few days ago. Picked the car up from the shop and 1 lifter was noisy but the car had not been driven so when for a decent drive and left it sit. Nearly two hours later I start it and it's all quiet. Next morning I start it and BAM! Lifter noise... And again after driving it and re starting at temp.. Then again this morning.. More lifter noise.. NOTE: At the first rebuild, new poncams where installed. Also I have a greddy thermostatic oil cooler with a greddy oil filter relocation kit piggy backed on it. I run royal purple 10w40 and have checked my defi oil press. gauge on start up and will post a video of start up.

Actually, funny you say that you just reminded.. me some of them have tiny bits rust on the sides of them and tiny little bits floating around in the sealed packaging.... this was the whole reason i even went to the cylinder head shop in the first place! so yeah answered my own question haha ill get some pics of a few of them tomorrow

Cheers for the replys lads! I already had a couple of lifters apart before i posted this so i just put them back together using the methods in the diy threads i posted above and using royal purple 10w40.... now super noob question time - should i do this to the other 19 lol or will that clear/yellow oem test/run in oil get pushed out of the inner valve eventually and fill with my engine oil?

This is what's confusing me, all the diy lifter rebuild/clean threads state that when putting them back together, make sure you can't compress them and install the valve back into the bucket rock solid.. so if it could cause a valve to jam open, why would nissan or anyone do it like this..? http://www.speed-industries.ch/wordpress/2011/02/15/inside-performance-clean-your-lifters/?lang=en http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/917346/Lifter-Rebuild-101.html