LaurelPWR

Sorry for any offence man, there was none intended... I'm extremely interested in your results a whole lot more so than others as I'm also putting a twin scroll rear housing onto a hta3076 on an rb25 and I'm having a very hard time choosing between the .83 & 1.01 a/r twin scroll housings... It seems your the only person to have actually done it so far on an rb25 and posted real results about it so I'm getting a little carried away with myself about what the possible issue could be in your setup... It's all very exciting indeed haha IMO First things first, instead of finding the "boost leak" you need to work out if the problem is actually a boost leak or a restriction or both or neither or shit intercooler or something else... Are you running a cat? And what boost control do you use?

Me and my bro would probably take 2 or 3 if it was to happen... Anyone else über keen?

Also forgot to ask earlier man, what's the specs of your full exhaust system/cat/mufflers etc.

I too have had struggles with traction so I added some micro flares, some 315/30/18 nitto nt01 semi slicks and re aligned the car to only .8° camber on both rears. I can't recommend the nt01 enough. Excellent grip even without a warm up. I also run my rear coilovers and sway bar on the softest settings. As far as your turbo/engine set up is concerned, have you read the thread about a hta3076 by 34GeeTeeTee on his rb25 Neo ? His engine set up is very similar to yours except single scroll not twin scroll but (absolutely no offence intended) his results are far more impressive than yours... Here's his dyno for before and after the turbo swap Blue line is gt3076 and red line is hta3076 Here the link to the thread: Forced Performance Hta Turbos There must be a restriction or boost leak somewhere in your system bro...

They showed some interest at first but It was too long between emails and they never replied after a while... I spoke to a guy two weeks ago who actually worked in the Gibson team on the cars and rb20 motors back then and he gave me some names to talk to if I was interested in the manifolds etc.. I don't see why we couldn't still get something happening if there was 10-20 people actually genuinely interested in this who have the money for it...

For sure man! Its a great result especially compared to the old gt3076... As far as boost leaks go, I spray soapy water all around the bay and use compressed air (30-35psi) through a 2-1/2 inch tapered pvc tap and pressurise my whole system to eliminate boost leaks! Works a treat and I very rarely have any leaks cos I do the test a few times a year or whenever I'm doing an intercooler flush or turbo inspection or swap etc... I would suggest vkadam does something similar to rule that out also..

Another plausible possibility for sure... I run my turbosmart eboost2 boost gauge source from the plenum and I have a separate Omori Boost gauge source from the compressor housing and there is a very slight (less then a full second) delay in me reaching my target boost at the plenum and the compressor spikes to 1psi higher at the same time. Correct me if I'm wrong but could another possibility be faulty/weak bov?

Thanks for your reply man [emoji4] What size a/r twin scroll rear housing did you end up using? And what manifold did you mate it with? What boost control are you running and what size gate? Sorry for 20 questions brother hahah

Well if anyone wants an autech manifold I have access to one for $300US plus shipping through a guy who has the rb20 autech motor...

The autech manifold appears to have the same flange as the r31 house in that pic and not a t25 flange as someone said earlier in the thread... Just out of curiosity, would anyone be chasing an autech manifold? AND What would people be willing to pay for one??

Awesome thanks for that man! They don't appear to be anywhere near as good as the Gts-r manifold.... They don't look tuned length or a decent merge

You wanna sell yours? [emoji12]

This is what I expected to see....

Yeah man I pmed you last week about yours... Have a look in your inbox brother

Can anyone identify what the go is with this manifold? I've seen many rb20det-r/Gts-r manifolds and I know what they are but I've never seen one like this...The owner claims it's an Autech rb20 I was meant to be buying it from him but after seeing photos I've been put off..... Very strange looking manifold..

Hey man I'm also looking at doing the .83 twin scroll rear on a hta3076 but on a s1 rb25 with pon cams on e85... Did you end up going down this route? What result did you see??

Went back on the dyno Friday night and turns out the Z32 AFM map has changed itself within the tune on my power fc....... Duck knows how it did this but all good now.

Boost leak was my first thought and as I said I've done multiple tests on the last two days.. I pressurised the whole system from the turbo inlet to 30-35 psi and fixed any leaks however small... Now I'm at a loss I'll also say that in second gear boost builds no worries at all and even spikes to 26-27psi then drops to 24-25psi which is target...

Morning lads! I noticed recrntly when I'm WOT my car has a noticeable flat spot in power up around 5500-7000rpm.. I checked my power fc and it normally has injector duty at around 84-90% max at rev limit of 7500rpm and 25psi but now it's going strait to 100% before rev limit is reached... Wile testing this I noticed it only does it in 3rd gear and the power drop seems to be coming from the fact it won't make target boost (25psi) in that gear... Hovers between 22-24psi. I use an eboost 2 ... Could it just be the tune? I'll also say my fuel pump relay had been wired wrong and was like this nearly the whole time I've had the car.. It's been on the dyno around 7 times for multiple tunes without a problem also... but now it's fixed and has since been using a fair bit more fuel... Would a bump up voltage cause a bump up in fuel pressure causing the injectors to max? I've done multiple boost leak tests now and found a couple of minuscule little leaks. Fixed them, car still does it. Swapped my z32 afm out for a brand new one... Still does it..

Thanks for the reply man (: Yeah I looked into the Xona series since my previous post and they look like a good thing on paper! and by doing away with and plastics in the chra using all metal/steel bearing casings etc. I would assume it would have superior reliability over the older hta variants

Thread dredge.... Do fp still make the hta3076 or an equivalent/newer version with a different name?

I think I've finally gotten over my HKS / Trust brand name obsession and am looking at a hta instead ... I been reading thru the hta thread and all I can say is f**king wow.!! Any you lads used them?

Woweee! I'm not an SR fan by any means BUT That's an impressive result! If you happen to do an RB25 please share those results with [emoji16]

I reckon it's a greddy compressor housing on a chinabay core and rear housing .... Can't find one other t67 with this rear. Not to mention it has no markings whatsoever on the rear and a 7 blade comp wheel when the t67 has a 6 blade wheel..

Ahhhh yes i see... I always assumed the compressor was the same on both 2835 and 3037 pro s.... Well if I'm already making 460whp now so my next aim will be 500-550whp so instead of f**king around, I'm now contemplating a trust/greddy t67... Can I have your opinion on this one please disco - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252438374637