turael

oh yeah, take your gearstick out too.

leave your manifolds on, remove all air pipes, remove exhaust from the dump, disconnect heater hoses, disconnect fuel system, remove PS pump and set aside in the engine bay (or remove PS reservoir as well), leave gearbox on, disconnect rear tailshaft from diff and then the centre bearing and then slide out of the gearbox, remove clutch slave, follow your electrical lines and DC what you have to (cant remember..), remove clutch fan and rad (you've already done this, hurrah), probably more things but that's what I can recall directly. shoot us a pic of your current engine bay with what you've removed. do you have an engine crane?

generally the milky texture is what you see when mixing coolant and oil - like if you bust your headgasket, look under your oil cap and it will look milky, as water as gotten into the oil. the milky look on the ground could just be because the coolant/water is dripping out over some oily parts of your car. I thought it was condensation from your aircon, which happens with all cars (that have and use aircon). Does your rad cap work properly? it should have a spring, which lets coolant travel out of the rad and into the overflow bottle. if this isn't working, it could be that your cooling system is getting way too much pressure in there and coolant is escaping out of a hose join or similar. also, anywhere coolant leaks out will leave a tell trail white residue. you're going to need a torch and some patience to try and locate where it's coming from exactly. fyi, this is a coolant leak: http://www.carrentals.co.uk/blog/wp-conten.../12/coolant.jpg aircon 'leaks' are just clear water.

i bet this is the aircon ben what you need to do is find out what colour exactly the liquid is on the ground. you are running standard green coolant yes? the stuff on the ground, is it green or is it clear?

seriously, just get some graphite lube. its just like a fine dust and you puff it onto the belts. good till it rains

finish the exhaust, i'd say. then spend some time to take it to the track a couple times, then you should figure out what you want out of the car. drag, drift, circuit work, daily, more extreme daily, bunky... then work on the rest of your mods from there

nice number plate, hahaha what's your next mechanical mod you have planned?

it leans out the back cylinders. either get a flow tested one, or don't do it.

just tighten them, jebus. or if its all dry weather use some graphite (dry) lube.

if it makes you feel better, my 040 makes a hell of a lot of noise, all the time. gurgles, buzzes, whining... very noisy pump. car has always been fine though, been running it for a year or two now.

It was the tectaloy 90 or whatever. I'm pretty sure any of their green stuff will be bad, regardless i'll never touch the stuff again. why take the risk when other coolant is just a touch more expensive.

its to prevent electrolysis (corrosion). if you don't do it right, your rad can literally disappear into the coolant. here's the thread with all the info. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=371472 ps. never use tectaloy, use nulon longlife (or a genuine nissan/toyota/subaru coolant). i had a 2jz head eaten by tectaloy...

lmao if it's a resonator style muffler you might have dented the inside pipes and you could potentially be losing a bit of flow there, but not worth losing sleep over. if its a glass pack style muffler with just absorption material it would be a bit harder to break the insides. you can usually tell the difference by looking at where the pipes enter and exit the box, if they are in line its most likely an absorption one (but i've seen ones that are like that and are resonators...) anyway just forget about it who cares.

ahhh complicated subject, as in same cases earthing the radiator will cause more problems than it will solve. i know there was a big thread on this on NS, perhaps have a search on there. it's a good idea to do it correctly though as i've heard of rads 'disappearing' in a few months after being installed!

the rubber pipe should have a metal spring in it to stop it from being sucked closed. boost should taper off at the end of your rev range, but probably not that much, what boost controller are you using?

is the AFR gauge worth it? I was told not to bother. water temp definitely boost definitely oil pressure/oil temp.

you'll want to remove all the rust, and if you do a closed door respray to a totally different colour it will indeed look silly. the white pearl is a good idea. grab an orbital sander and a shitload of pads and go for it. have a can of primer ready for when you sand thru to metal (to remove your rust), spray over any exposed metal or it will rust in a few hours/overnight depending on moisture in the air and dew. i did a closed door respray at home on my 180, went from dark green to matt black, doesnt look too bad, but then again my standards are pretty low

as above. it will help if you have the same size tyres too (else the rolling diameter will be slightly different and attessa will shit itself)

does the HICAS in the R33's even use the PS pump? I just took one apart, and the HICAS was fully electric it seems. However in my 180sx, the HICAS was mechanical (used PS fluid). I locked my 180sx hicas and removed all the hicas junk, and looped the lines back together. HICAS is a PITA. I would suggest just locking/removing the hicas! use this as a good excuse

I use ATF