twinvl

Ahh, you did say 2WD... Fair enough. The GTS4 auto just has a cable to the shfter mounted on top of the tunnel, very different then.

Engine mounts are fine, and if the whole engine was back that far it would be against the firewall! The difference is in the box as I measured it compared to the r33 gts box I have. GTSBoy, I didn't have a hole in the tunnel, I had to make it. I unstiched the panel out of my GTSt shell and welded into the GTS4 shell in the same place as the GTSt assuming it would line up! So your auto 2 door GTS4 had a shifter hole in the tunnel? I think I'm just going to modify a shifter anyway.

Just done the conversion from auto to manual in my R32 GTS4 using a R33 GTR box. I measured and cut the hole for the shifter based on the R32 GTSt manual shell I have and it lines up perfectly with the centre console etc. I compared it to the rb25 box that came out of the GTSt but the shifter is ~40mm further back on the r33 box. Looking at photos of r32 GTR boxes, the shifter appears to be in the same place as the R33 so I can't work out why it doesn't line up? Fitting the shifter in pointing forwards works for now. Is the shifter in an R32 GTR ~40mm further back than a r32 GTSt?? I would have thought they were the same?? Anyone had the same problem? Solutions??

The balls on the shifters are the same, the nylon bush is a different size. You can swap them over and the rb20 shifter drops straight in the RB25 box. The shifter position was identical from the rb20 box to the rb25.

I made a tow bar for my R32 GTSt, tow my race car with it! Works well, not exactly legal tho towing ~1600kg with a 1300kg car....

I've just converted my R32 GTS4 to RWD, not because I wanted to tho... I stacked my GTSt and bought a GTS4 to replace it, I could only find an auto one tho. The engine became smokey shortly after buying it so I swapped in the engine out of the GTSt into it with a R33 GTR gearbox to convert it to manual. Cos the blocks are different and it's my daily driver I didn't have time to adapt the 4WD sump on the GTSt engine. The RWD engine bolts up to the 4WD box no worries, and I just disassembled the front CVs and fitted the stub axles in the hubs. If you're worried about the extra weight of the transfer case I saw a gutted transfer case on ebay earlier today. Good advantage of keeping the 4WD box is its much stronger and half the price to replace as an r33 gtst box. Comparing the GTS4 to the GTSt, there is a fair bit more beef in the front and rear K frames, and they hang lower in the GTS4. Convert or replace, its prob as much trouble either way?

I've just stacked my car that is identical to yours. I'll find out if it's written off tomorrow and if so I'll be in touch! Cheers, Darren.

Fair enough, the video wouldn't load for me the other day...

So what switch do you actually flick to change maps??

Hmmm intresting comments. I've seen e85 stored for months in steel drums with out a problem. The trick is to keep it sealed as yes it does soak up moisture very quickly if left unsealed. I also know a guy who tested the ethanol content of e85 from various sources at various times and it varied from a bit over 85% down to 60%... Not so good. The best bet is to buy e100 in drums, still only $1 per litre, and mix it yourself, or run it straight! BTW, i hope to be tuning an R35 in a month or so, and i'll definatly be suggesting to use E85. I'll let you know how it goes!

Anyone?

Someone has got to have a boken one lying around somewhere??

E85 is classed as a pump fuel, at least it's fine to run in the Vic IPRA. One of my friends is doing so!

You're lucky enough the R35 has traditional frequency wheel speed signals that come out of the instrument cluster. Normally in cars these days it's all on CAN only and you can't fit a teratrip You can tap into Pins 12 or 13. Pin 12 is a lower frequency than pin 13, but take your pick which one you use.

Will pay up to $50 for a standard r32 ecu, clean case and good connector, broken or working. Email me [email protected] Cheers, Darren.

Got Rb26 cam and coil covers??

Hi i'm interested in the standard r32 GTR wheels (16" x 8"), do you still have them? email me [email protected] Cheers.

Have you pulled the pumps apart???? The RB30 gear extends into the pump housing where you can't see it. The RB26 pump gear is narrower than the drive. The gears are about the same thickness! Just the RB30 inner gear is has more 'meat' from the drive to the teeth making the narrow drive not a problem (assumed since they don't fail).

Oh wow this is old.... i'm guessing not then...

That couldn't be less true for a turbo engine, i've never seen one that runs optimum timing, even on standard boost. Until you run on good fuel that is, then if you don't run more boost or higher comp you might as well not use the good stuff.

I knew i'd cop it 4 that comment... More stroke means more torque and less revs. Take an engine and stroke it, if ports and valves are left the same and cam durations etc. are optimized before and after you will generally come out with a similar power, or at least no where near as much % power gain as % displacement increased. There's a bit more to it with manifold runner lengths and sizes, but what it comes down to is bore size, as the ultimate power limiting factors are piston speed and area for valves. Stroking is just easier and more torque makes a more driveable engine that u don't have 2 rev as hard. I have an rb30dett for that reason, but not for outright power. You tell me what would have more potential for power, stroking an rb26 to 3 litres or boring it to 3 litres (if possible)? I know what I would prefer I'm sure I've got some more comments to justify in there somewhere? Sorry for going OT...

Yeah well an RB20 is a bit different, really comparing an SR20 to RB30 (didn't think i would need to clarify that), tho i tend to think total power comes down to bore size rather than displacment so RB25 and RB26 also compare, just the revs shift. I just went and checked what the actual figures were (my memory it not great sometimes) and it was exactly a 25fwhp gain, but it was with a restrictor all along, and obviously not optimised on e85. The engine went on to make a further 65hp more than that by only changing the turbo, same restrictor and e85, so a 90hp gain in total just from turbo and fuel. Unrestricted is a completly different story when you can add so much more boost on e85.

Hi intersted in the head and inlet mani, email me, [email protected] I'm local enough so will come take a look if you still have the parts.

What do u mean , it's a SR, 4 cylinders which is 2/3 of a 6 cylinder! Same power gain per a cylinder equals 2/3 the total power gain.

Well two points, It was tuned to the ragged edge to begin with, and it's an SR, so you should expect about 2/3's the gain you would see from an RB. Also the 40% more fuel was just to be extra safe, about 0.70 lambda... The test was just to do a quick comparison before changing the turbo and putting the restrictor on so 15 degrees was probably too far, the point was it didn't ping at all and e85 is fantastic S#%& that makes high comp turbo engines very possible! Just needs to be made more available...