Jump to content
SAU Community

zei20l

Members
  • Posts

    5,724
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by zei20l

  1. just respray the whole car
  2. when mine hit 112 the needle was over the halfway mark, normally it sits a little below the halfway mark AFAIK all VQ radiators have the inlet and outlet in the right position, the radiator cap may not be. Z33s have them in a different position.
  3. no mate i dont, im lacking the mounting screw for the sub to hold it and the spare wheel into the wheel well. if i did, id have it hooked up already! i THINK it uses a speaker level input from the amps that are usually in the boot of the bose equipped models. from an aftermarket head unit, i wouldnt imagine it would be too hard to wire up. for $80 its worth taking the risk! lol
  4. also, no, there is no wiring to the sub for the non-bose cars. but there is an amp built into the sub enclosure, so it wouldnt be difficult to work out the power wires and the audio input
  5. thats dirt cheap! i got one into the country from IM and it cost me over $300 to get it here!
  6. i hit 112 a few weeks ago on that really hot day in sydney, i had the AC on. which i turned off once it got that hot. need to get that 54mm radiator in
  7. does it run again yet??
  8. lol ok then good luck driving your car
  9. seal kit is cheap!! i wont worry about PMing you the price. the pump is a bitch to get in and out, but not impossible. craig's words not mine lol
  10. so when there is no water in the cooling system, what happens to the temperature gauge?? it goes up, not down.
  11. no, it will read high if there is no water. water wont boil under pressure in a sealed environment. like a cooling system in a car! put some air in there and the water WILL boil and show a higher temp due to the steam being hotter than the water.........
  12. the V35 radiator for 3.5L will need cutting anyway, its not that much. the 2.5L will bolt in fine sorry, i should have mentioned that there is a whole thread for this radiator issue however, that price is still decent for an OEM part!! the factory radiators on IM for M35 are still over $3250 + delivery + taxes blah blah, probably $600 by the time it gets here
  13. RWD RE5 transmission + new engine loom + TCU and youre away.......
  14. my all alloy radiator was about $220 + delivery from china.......
  15. nope, it will probably read too high as the fluid can boil with air in the system.......
  16. except that water temp at the radiator isnt water temp in the engine which is where you really need it
  17. i MAY have a 2nd hand pump in the garage from an M35
  18. amen to that, and the 1-2mins of easy driving before you get home is a street 'cool down lap'
  19. if you can, park the car on a down slope so that bleed point is highest in the system. it helps..........
  20. is that car even running anymore?
  21. or just check the fluid level so that you dont pay someone $180 to top up the radiator......
  22. thanks for the link! i should probably do mine at some stage soon
  23. bleed the system, might need topping up. at that needle position youre probably looking at around 110-112degrees water temp. not the best, but is still operational. if it doesnt have air in the system, look for a blockage, or check the status of your thermo fans. does it go back down when youre cruising again? if it doesnt, possibly a water pump issue.
  24. also jaycar sell burners, they have conversion kits, not sure if they sell D2R/D2S though, but worth a look if youre near one
×
×
  • Create New...