Branelly

Cool thanks. My current wheels sit out the guards by at least 20mm, and right now its scraping around every corner that has a bump mid way. Well untill i get my gaurds flared anyway. So how high do you think i would need to go? I was planning on setting it about 10-15mm lower than stock for now, then drop it once its been flared. Also will increasing the stiffness keep it from scraping if i keep it lower?

Hey im just about to install bc coilovers, was wondering the exact same question. Anyway how long did it take? And do you have any pointers?

1- Im pretty sure v1 are being phased out as we speak, whats being sold now is only left over stock. 2- Pretty sure standard spring rates will be 8/6 for most brands. Think its the same for teins. 3- Im curious as well. Ive just bought some bc coilovers my self and am planning to install them as soon as they get here.

This topic has more twists then a bag of pretzels. Lol, but seriously this topic is a great read, highly recomending to everyone. Good luck with everything as well, seems like your going to have alot of stories for your grand children.

"A healthy RB20det should still be pretty ok down low even without VCT." Maybe hes used to driving a v8 or even a standard commodore v6. Both will have way more go then any 20 down low.

Sounds like you have a bad case of rb20, only way to fix it is with some extra capacity. Also didnt you test drive this vehicle before driving it? Even if you were just riding passneger it should have been fairly obvious what sought of power you were getting.

@ PROXIMITY, uhhh thanks... Really good way to sell a product to someone who was interested..

Hey im interested, just wondering: What condition there in? What the ride is like, comfy/really stiff? What the performance is like? What adjustment they have on them, height, rebound, etc? Are they paticuarly noisy or anoying? And finally just anything else you can tell me about them.

What power is the turbo good for? Would be using it on a 33 if that makes a difference. And when you say minimal shaft play, would it be better off being reconditioned before putting it on? Or is it still good.

Those wheels look sweet, would suit the car nicely too.

Hey was just wondering about my car, ever since its been tuned its been blowing alot of black smoke. Like i mean i wash the car and within 3 days the whole back of the car is black. Which looks really bad considering the car is white. Anyway what im trying to get at is do you think its possible the tuner has made it a bit over rich? and could get away with it running a bit leaner? or the tune has slightly gone out of wack since it was done(9 months ago) and needs to be redone?

I bought my suzuki gs500f for 6500 brand new this year. At first was going to get the ninja, but once i saw the price of the 500 i just couldnt pass it up. Extra 5kw's makes all the difference lol.

Ive been playing for a bit now and have just reached level 17. Been reading all the reviews and would have to agree the games awesome fun but has some flaws. The main one for me would probably be the fact that you can upgrade your car to a point way beyond what your competitors cars are. And also that most of the time you can enter an overpowered car in races. As for possible soloutions, i would have liked to have seen a power/upgrade restriction which rises with your level. So at first you can modify your engine with exhuast, intake and basic engine tuning. Then later as you progress through the levels you are able to turbo/supercharge/ increase engine capacity. Cool thing about that would be that you might be able to make your old cars faster, like say the first cars you buy such as 180sx/skyline's, would eventually be uograded to power levels the same as the super cars in the game. And not be restricted to low power levels. Anyway gonna get back to playing.

Bad ass... Wish my turbo would sound like that.

Are the gains on a rb25 just as good as far as bang for your buck goes. I remember reading that you can get a nice 10kw's almost all across the rev range on a 25. What sought of gains are we talking about for the 26?

@ toddr33, Just in case you didnt know you wont really hear your blow off valve unless you have a pod filter, or similar. The stock panel filter completley muffles the sound. @ Trozzle, The stock blow off valve should release the pressure at generally any rpm. If its only opening at 6000rpm or above it definitley sounds like theres some sort of problem with the way its been set up. Either way get it sorted soon, not releasing the pressure can damage your turbo.

Im getting the z32 ecu with nistune installed and tuned for $900. I think the only advantage of the z32 is that it retains the vct. I would say 700-800 is a pretty good price. Make sure to shop around though because i got quoted $2000 at one place i rang, i choked on the phone when he said that.

Will this fix my air? Right now it always blows out hot air no matter what i have it set on.

Yeah I agree with your point on power dropping a bit at the high rpms, probably because the stock turbo is running out of puff. As for reasons to rev that high, well basically the higher you rev, when you go into the next gear you are going to be higher in the rev range. And as for you changing gear at 6000rpm, thats not a problem, but dont you notice that power keeps increasing all the way untill red line? I certainly do and therefore ussually change gear at about 6,900. That is if im giving it the boot.

So my cars going in on wednesday to get a z32 ecu and nistune installed and tuned up. Im very excited to say the least. Anyway the car has the basic mods, full exhaust, fmic, pod filter, manual boost controller and its getting a new fuel pump on Wednesday as well, just as insurance against fuel supply problems. So basically I was wondering about the rev limiter on rb25's, how high can you go on an unopened engine. I know this is a "how long is a piece of string" question. So i was hoping that people could speak from personal experience, i.e how high is your limiters set? From what ive seen 7,500 seems to be the limit, but im not really sure. Also with the fuel pump the one to get is the Bosch isn't it? The mechanic said to get that or the walbro, and i said i wasnt sure, ille leave it to him. And just now i read about the walbros being crap and having random failures so i might ring him back and tell him i want the bosch. Sound good?

I think im slowly learning something here, keep it up and i might retain some of it. So basically boost (psi) is more a measurement of the air that's left before the engine uses it. If the engine can use the air the boost is lower, but the flow is the same or more. @ Lukas, Yeah i understand basic turbo info. But still a little (a lot) clueless about compressor maps.

Yeah none taken, just trying to get a grip on it all.

Hmmm weird, i just immediately thought that once the psi equals your set level your wastegate will open, there fore its not going to matter what your volume is. In other words more volume into space = more pressure.

I was originally under the impression that turbo choice wouldn't effect power as long as the psi its putting into the engine is the same. For instance two turbos, 1 reaches full boost at 3000rpm. The second which is slightly bigger reaches full boost at 3500rpm. Both are putting the same psi into the same engine. Are they both going to make the same power at 6000 rpm, because both are putting in the exact same amount of boost in at that time? Hope you understand what im getting at, and can clear it up for me.

I second that, best topic ive read, all the info i needed.