HYPED6

+2 Went from another performance spring manufacture to super tech and literally went from 480rwhp too 596 rwhp. Back to back with nothing else changed but the tune to suit th new springs that would actually work over 22 psi

I make 440rwkw and am running 1200cc injectors and E85. They are well and truly maxed. Lambda is 0.73.

The only problem with running injectors at 100% is that you are not controlling the fuel. The injectors will happily sit at 100% all day. So will injector drivers in ECU's But if you are at 100% then you are at the limits of the elements with fuel control. If a condition changes, eg. 1 more psi, colder charge temp etc, there is no adjustment for this. This is the only reason that 100% DC is not recommended.

Stock Piston, Rod, crank RB26. Sure Cams, Super tech Springs. Pro boost T04Z RC 1200cc Injectors 2 x Piburge Pumps. Wolf V500 Caltex Pump E85.

Wolf V500.

I have been running E85 for about 8 months now. Its a 32gtr on a standard bottom end. This is how I have set it up and the reasons why. Firstly, I run E85 from caltex. Now for full throttle stuff. I tune my engine rich, rich enough that it hurts power a little. Id rather see a massive safety margin and loose 20hp. I run my engine at 0.73 Lambda. This does 2 things. It keeps My EGT's under 800c. This is measured on every cylinder, out of the head port. It give me a safety margin so if I get E76.24 or E90 then is doesnt really matter. Now, The next thing I do, for light loads I run a 5 wire wide band sensor. Nothing new I know, but its what I do with the information that is important. It tunes my engine at light loads to Lambda 1 for emissions. It does not matter what fuel, its target is lambda 1. This is where is gets interesting. I feed the wide band into the ECU. I then tell the ECU if its over 20psi, and at full throttle, and over 5500rpm and it see's mixtures leaner than 0.87 lambda, Add fuel. If it adds fuel and the mixtures are still too lean, Then it adds more fuel and starts too pulls boost. If it is still too lean, it drops the boost to gate pressure and displays a red warning light. I run a RGB Led shift light that can display 8 different colors. Its completely controlled by the ECU. Now if the light goes red from the mixtures, It stays red until the ignition is cycled. This setup is relevant for any fuel, any setup. I have this setup for Oil temp, engine temp (blue to too cold, Flashing red/blue for too hot) Shift.etc etc. Now, I am still running the pistons that came with the car. From factory. Im making just shy of 600rwhp on 29 pound. My car had probably done 12,000 k in the last 18 months. And for you playing at home, I have 1200cc Injectors and they are maxed at these power levels and mixtures.

Hey mate, The fronts will fit but the rear is different,

Tein Coilovers. With springs. for R32 GTR $600 Have been rebuilt by previous owner who worked at Tein dealer. Heavy spring rate. Handled great but a little rough for my old self. Can be collected from Gold coast or Yatala. Phone on 0404812797 Thanks.

ERD is correct about the Sards. The 800cc side feeds are even worse. A very easy way to test it let the engine become stable at idle, at operating temp. Start to lean the mixtures out. Just about any RB engine should be able to idle at 16.5:1 with no dramas. Even with Cams 15.5 should be a walk in the park. What you will probably find is as you drop your injection time you will start to get cylinders that start to fall over. This is your latency. Some injectors do it worse than others. I have seen as much as 5.5 MS of injection time under crank conditions and the injectors didn't open. As tested with a PICO scope and current clamp. Lean mixtures are something that should be done on a dyno too. Ill quickly show you why. Lets say you are at 3000 rpm. and 20% throttle generating around 15 rwkw AFR is 12:1 injection time is 3.00 MS Now if you lean your mixtures out, to say 12.7:1 and your injection time is 2.70 MS still making 15 rwkw, then you save 10% fuel. Now you go further lean it out to 14.5:1 at 2.00 MS. Thats 26% decrease in fuel, say you now make 13rwkw. Thats a 13% loss in power. We are still sweet. If you then go to 15.5:1 at 1.90 Ms and your power drops to 10RWKW, Well now we have a 5% loss in fuel, but a 23% loss in power. When your fuel decrease by percentage is greater than you power decrease by percentage then you are on the right track.

Sold. Thanks guys.

For Sale, 4 x R32 GTR wheels. Have good rubber. No gutter marks and all center caps and wheel nuts. Selling due to I have upgraded my wheels. Pick up only, Gold Coast QLD Contact on 0404812797

Ill grab them today. The balancer we used is a Ross one funnily enough how ever instead of needing to use there particular balancer we made a billet adapter to fit in the front of a generic Ross balancer. This will also fit any disk type on it. Of any teeth configuration. The kit we made uses a modified standard cam sensor disk that any one can do at home. When I was doing the testing, one of the problems I was having was that when we ran 72+1 (36 teeth on the crank one on the cam) I was getting a condition that the crank sensor would trigger on the falling edge. Now if you could imagine the engine sees 1 cam...... 72 crank.....1 cam.....72 crank....... some times I would get....... 1 cam 72 teeth 1 cam 71 teeth 1 cam 73 teeth 1 cam 72 teeth. Now some of you may thing thats no big deal.... But if you think about it that means that I am getting timing jitter over over 10 crankshaft degrees. Thats MASSIVE! Imagine your tuner adjusting timing by 0.5 of a deg, trying to find MBT and having movement over 20 times your adjustment that you cant see. Let alone what this looks like in your map with some ECU's jumping over 2000rpm at a single RPM point. I'll grab some photo's today. There are some changes that need to be made to the kit but should come in well under 2k and be able to use any triggering configuration you need.

Wow, I really didn't think this was a topic that was soo miss understood. Timing jitter is something that has plagued RB engines since the dawn of time. The worst is the 30 single cam. Now fact of the matter is, you are measuring the crank off the camshaft. Now between the crank and the cam sensor we have...... A bearing that the sensor shaft runs on. The shaft it self that goes in the camshaft. A rubber belt. Now, there is an easy way to diagnose if you have timing jitter. Lock your ignition timing. Grab a timing light and slowly rev your engine..... and watch the timing. You will see as your belt gets harmonic vibrations so will your timing. Every RB does it. Just some do it worse than others. Now, there are some fixes. using a dual pulse disk can help. It basically dumbs down the CAS so its not as accurate but helps jitter. The best option is measure the crank off the crank. I have just been involved in making a bolt on billet kit for RB series engines. We started with a 72+1 then tried 72+1 with a missing tooth. The problem we had was the sensor we where using wasn't fast enough to read it at 9000+ rpm. We ended up with a 24+1 setup so RPM is never an issue and still more than enough teeth for accuracy. I have personally seen engines sooooo bad that the timing marks disappear off the balancer.

Here is my little story. I have been wondering the same thing the last 6 months or so. This is what I have found. I bought my gtr with plain bearing -5's. Now with Cams, 10.25 @ 292 Good after market front mount Very good fuel Stock dumps Stock but ported exhaust manifolds After market exhaust After market ECU Fuel systems to support anything I threw at it Made around 490 rwhp on around 20 psi. Boost control was rubbish. Needed one solenoid per turbo and a 32x32 table just to get any descent control. If I rung its neck.... (shut the wastegates) it would spike to 2 bar as it came on to boost and 22 psi at 850rpm it would make 530 rwhp. Rubbish. Now I thought that this was under powered. So made some 2.5inch dumps. No difference Shortly after one turbo died. I bought some shiny new -10's. Made some 3 inch dump pipes. Twin 3 inch front pipe to single 4 inch system. Engine now makes 400rwhp on 10psi. Much better Bloody thing hits another brick wall at 480 rwhp!!!! Regardless of boost levels. Regardless of ignition timing or fueling etc. Now. I believe its the standard exhaust manifolds. I really do believe that is the key to making big power out of these turbos. At the moment I am currently fitting a single turbo charger. Its the only thing I am changing so it will be a reasonable back to back. Has any one else seen anything else similar?

To get the most out of E85, EGT's are a very help full tool. Well any fuel for that matter. ERD is right, some engines (highly strung boosted ones) will be quite happy at 0.90-0.95 Lambda. Good Temps, and making more power than richer mixtures. Where some need more than .078 Lambda for temps and some times have no adverse effect on power out put at all. Its a case by case really. E85 is very forgiving. You can over advance it, run it lean and its still pretty safe on pistons. Over advancing however puts massive loads on big end bearings and gudgeon pins. But this will come back to your engine builder with "but it didn't ping, the pistons are perfect!" Sorry off topic has one one asked the V8 guys what ignition timing they run????? I believe there biggest complaint is the massive amount of heat exhaust E85 generates. I am also under the understanding that they have a limit on total ignition timing that can be run at full load. I believe this was started in the 98 octane era to create a parity with the teams. Back on topic ........ I will run a set of 9's or 10's in my gtr and see if there are differences that I can find with starting cold.

I run E85, RB26 with standard pistons and compression. 292 @ 10.2 cams. Absolutely no dramas with cold starts. It may be that its hotter up here than down south but at 5 - 10deg in the morning its perfect. CAR: 32GTR POWER:607 rwhp with 100 shot NOS TYPE OF ETHANOL: E85 Caltex PLUG:Bcpr6es GAP:0.8 COLD START:Good HOT: Good too

Northside 4x4 Caboolture Torque and Tune Caloundra Both Highly Recommended

PFC Wont do it over load and RPM where you need them Shanes Isn't the Quickest 1JZ. He has a 1.5. Derek Johnson has the quickest in his VS ute. And its a stocker bottom end still and very street driven. For a Stocker RB25 I agree there are better options.

I am by no means defending wolf. When you start to see what is involved in setting up these cars on a daily basis, I would rather have the option and not use it than need the option and not have it. Be it a haltch/motec what ever. The average club level circuit car.... Last targa I tuned a 280Z that cam 1st in its class. No bells and whistles necessary. So yes No 400 hp gas here. Just simple Electric Water pump and fan control Street/Strip..... The quickest 1JZ in Australia was set up with the exact boost control setup in my post. Pure street.... Cant go past the factory systems, bar none. Race boats.... When you are holding an engine flat for the southern 80 you better hope you have cylinder trim. I thought on this forum there where enthusiasts from all walks of life. People that use there skylines daily, to the guys the just love trying something new and maybe drive there cars for half the year. I am an enthusiast just like you guys. I see this stuff every day. I like you guys am always looking for better ways to enjoy my passion which is cars. If you are some one that just needs your management system to control injectors and coils then thats great. Believe me. I have done more than 1 nistune in my time. But engine management doesn't just stop there.

I think you missed the point. Its not a description on how fast I can tune. Its to show that the days of "tuning" to 12:1 and putting in the correct timing at full throttle are now gone. Its the extra things like autronics awesome individual cylinder trims over load and RPM. Very useful when pushing an engine and you have 1 pesky cylinder that is just too hot. You trim it up and keep going. Great for the tuner that monitors individual cylinders. While every one else leaves it at 0 and wonders why you would ever need them. Its EMS's Injection end angle over Load and RPM. This is awesome when you have 1600cc injectors and are only using 50% duty on 98 at full noise. Its controlling automatic transmissions. And not in preset little boxes like 3-4 shift pressure but actually wiring a system that takes control of the auto. Its the 2 steps with no external buttons. Just clutch in, full throttle and 0 wheel speed. Its Nos control PWM. Use a solenoid that can flow 400hp worth of gas and trim it over wheel speed. Dry shot with all the trimming done by the ECU Tuning engines for turbo preservation. Measuring the air in and the air out. Pressures, Temps all the fun stuff. Tuning for engine preservation, Holding an engine flat for an hour, not just a power run or drag run. Its squeezing 800rwhp out of a stock bottom end 2.5 liter engine by measuring and calculating. This is what I am demonstrating. Not how long it takes to trim a PE table and throw some timing at an engine.

Wow I really didn't think they where that complicated? Especially the V500. We have used them on a few cars for there PWM output control. I tune every system, but when you require a system (at a reasonable price) that can do pulse width modulated control over TPS, Wheel speed, Boost, RPM and engine temp all at the same time? The answers are very far and few between. Even the latest offering from haltech cant. Please correct me if I am wrong but I couldn't see anything on Vipec either. Again correct me if I am wrong but there may be a 32x32 table in EMS that can be PWM, but I think its just a 3D table, with no external corrections. Just to give you an example, Boost control. Easiest PWM to understand. What may be required is a boost pressure of 30psi. But when on the trans brake boost needs to be limited to 10psi. Also from 0 - 40 Kmph boost needs to be trimmed from 10-25 then from 40-80 the boost trimmed from 25-30. Now I dont mean trimmed as in stepped, I mean trimmed. So when running High horse power engines on tiny little radial tiers we don't shock them. I also want the boost to be trimmed from 0deg engine temp to operating temp. So gate pressure at 0 deg and 30 psi from 64deg and up. Even run an external switch for your 2 maps, one for 98 and one for E85. So when we are on 98 our base pressure is now 20psi and all other corrections work from that. Sounds easy, Most systems cant do it. Or they can do just that and nothing else. I honestly don't think it takes me any longer to tune a wolf than any other system, be it adaptronic or power FC or a VE SS commodore (HP) with a massive cam shaft.

wow, im not an expert but.... I have tuned most ECU's on the market and have had great success with all of them. From Emanage to Motec, Autronic and Nistune. And honestly, they all do excatly what the individual system is entended to do. Some of them do things very well, others not.... but we almost always find a way to work with a system, instead of just writing it off as a piece of crap. How ever as a tuner, I take the time to fly to sydney to haltech to do training on the new Platinum ECU's. I attend Wolf training to do the same. I speak to tuners in the industry that use Microtech every day to work out how to use the system to address certain output restrictions that we may have on certain drag cars we do. Every system, I read the book before I tune it, the writers dont make it hard for you to understand. I hear about certain ECU's having trouble with "cold starting" which is rubbish. You have a tuner that has a cold starting issue, or a customer that has an unrealistic time frame on how long it takes to duplicate what the factory gets done in thousands of hours. If your tuner can't tune a Wolf 3b then dont get one. If you really want a would 3b Then get one and find some one that will tune it.

And it has PVC...... Positive ventilation crankcase.... oops Yes my paint skills are awesome. There is no doubting it. As you could imagine its much easier to explain with a picture than using 1000 words.

This is my setup. Yes you need to draw Crank case ventilation from your engine. Believe it or not, you actually want vacuum in your crank case to help pull the ring down on to the ring land of your piston which also helps the push the ring against the bore. Leaving the tube from your rocker cover to your turbo helps the no end. Following the diagram, All the red lines are contaminated with oil, all the blue lines are scrubbed from vapor by baffling and steel wool in the oil air separator. This setup is completely sealed and legal. It never needs to be drained and has 0 maintenance. I just leave my dipstick tune in my boot and use it when necessary.

Most definatly that can be the case. The question is, Are the high EGT's from overly retarded timing? Or is it directly related to the fuel? What where the EGT's on pump gas? Where are they measuring the EGT's. At the collector or out of the head? Ill think you will find that is at the collector into the turbo. This is going to be your highest reading because of the high pressure area. E85 directly does not cause High EGT's. Going from 98 to E85 a 100deg c drop in egts at higher power levels are not un common. The slow burn rate of Ethanol. Is this the same "slow" burn rate as Methanol, or Elf race fuels? They both have amazing low EGT's so how would E85 run any differently? I have seen many logs of different engines on differnent fuels from 98 to 109 to 98+Meth to 98+meth+Toulene to E85 and even straight methanol. E85 Does not always make more power, It does how ever have the lowest EGT's.