HYPED6

Until you have to tune more than 2 cars a day, they are great. I learnt dyno's on a dynapak........ perfect for wheel spin issues as well. Like an ecu (well most) , its only ever as accurate as the operator.

So its 580rwhp with god knows what air temp, ramp rate or boost. Cant be compared to anything....... Weigh the car..... run it down the strip. If its 3000lbs and does 140+ then its about right.

Get anything on the market that will plugin. R33 Auto has its own auto ECU. May delay the shift from 1st to second by about 500 rpm but that's it. Will function normally other wise.

Yeah mate. Pistons are only as good as the tuner.

Gun Metal Grey 1990 GTR Engine - RB26 With Variable inlet Camshaft Standard Rebuild with R33 GTR Crank ERD Oil pump gear set Rings/bearings etc. ARP Rod bolts Oil restrictor in block Stainless exhaust valves ERD Variable Cam timing (like HKS VCam) Super tech Valve springs 292@10.2 Exhaust Cam ERD RB26 Billet VCT inlet cam Ross Balancer Manual adjustable gear on exhaust cam CRG Merge collector Steam pipe manifold with EGT ports Plain Bearing T04Z with 0.64 T4 exhaust housing 44mm External wastegate off exhaust housing 4 inch exhaust with 3.5 inch resonator 110mm Intercooler HKS hard piping kit Koyo Radiator Custom Oil Air seperator Fuel System - Delphi feed pump 3 Ltr Surge Tank 2 x Piburg fuel pumps (13.5 liters a min) HKS Fuel rail RC 1200cc Injectors FAST Fuel regulator LS2 Coils with custom leads Wolf V550 ECU with wide band feedback 2 Step Setup Excedy twin plate clutch Rebuilt (by NPC) Wheels/Tyres - Nismo LMGT-4 17x9 with Federal RSR's Bilstein Coil overs with king springs Whitleline Cross brace and adjustable swaybars BrakeLab Pads front and rear Engine has made just on 600rwhp. Car will be sold with around 550rwhp on E85 Any questions ring me on 0404812797 Asking $21,000

This is good. Engines out of cars should be able to be used in boats...... and held flat for a day or 2..... They live long and happy lives then.

That's pretty good power from 9 psi.

You would be surprised.... Yes spending 2 days on the dyno is not how i intended that. However, Car comes in.... makes ghey power.... spend 4 hours working out why.....needs new valve spring.... springs go in... car goes back on the dyno..... car gets re tuned... How long do you think this process takes? Buy the time you order the springs, get them, spend 5 hours changing them, put the car back on the dyno and tune all the other cars that where booked in after his? Im not saying the car would be on the dyno for 2 days...... they may spend 6 hours over 2 or 3 or 5 days in between jobs. In saying that..... I have seen a car on a dyno for more than 1 day..... Fixing issues, just small ones. but then went 8.8@155..... No one seemed to complain about the bill?

Did they damage the engine? or did they diagnose the detonation was there? Also can you please confirm how you know there was absolutely no detonation before it went to the shop? Im glad that your expectations of your self are so high that you would be able to fix the car the same day. I wish I was that confident in life. Well, I am actually....... and as soon as I am, another car comes along and shows me that I know bugger all and to pull my head back in and keep learning. I hope you have a great day diagnosing cars today. Its your gift from god. Stop hiding it from everyone

CFM of air stops intercoolers from working. We only measure it in PSI because its easy. You will get CFM in - CFM out = PSI drop, regardles of engine.

Split pipe for sure. it is heavily documented that they always make more power, less lag and better fuel ecconemy. If they were not the best then external gates would come out in exhaust housings. End of story. Lock thread.

You should read my above post. Im sure with the information provided you will be able to give me a clear and precise diagnosis of the mentioned pinging. Shouldn't you? I mean it can only be maybe one of about 15 things

Oil, and carbon deposits can make that much difference. I have seen as much as 14 deg timing being able to be added after removing all contaminates from cooler piping/cooler and cleaning carbon off the tops of pistons. Detonation is not as easy as "o Its pinging..... I will just get out my crystal ball and see what the cause is..... " Possible causes........ Tune related....... Too much ignition timing (AFR Dependent) Not enough ignition timing (only seen this maybe once) Too much fuel (same again... maybe twice) Not enough fuel (but is also in relation to timing as well) Mechanical Engine related..... Too much compression Anything protruding into the combustion chamber that shouldn't be there Exhaust back pressure from exhaust, turbine housing, turbine. Damaged compressor wheel And well, we can call this "other" I guess Too much heat in the combustion chamber Timing jitter. If you don't know what this is yet then get reading. Contaminants in the intake, oil etc Incorrect fuel used for the application Intercooler, causing to much pressure drop..... or not cooling properly. and honestly....... the absolute biggest cause of detonation is customers expectations. "But I read on the internet that my 30/76 on a RB25 should make 430rwhp on 98 octane because I have a built engine and have spent all this money and now its your fault because its not making the power" This is what makes engines detonate. Now how long does it take to test for all these things especially when you have allocated 5 hours for a tune..... and not 2 days from removal and refit of parts when you have other customers booked in as well. Honestly you should be happy that they actually have the correct equipment and actually heard the detonation. Knowing this, when it is fixed your engine will live a long and happy life. I bet you would be more upset if they didn't hear it and it made awesome power and your engine went bang in 3 days..... how good would that be.

You can do idle ignition timing with a few ECU's....... Autronic is by far the easiest to set up in that regard. Others you need to do 4D and 5D outputs, but it still can be done. They also have the best logging, bar none and are as reliable as anything. Individual cylinder control over load and RPM. I rate them very highly as an ecu and tune many of them. The new Wolf V550 has PI control on there outputs. I haven't had much of a play with them yet but im sure I will get the chance.

The scope keeps the ECU's honest. There is no fluke we have ended up where we are. It has been calculated. Some of the "best" systems have trouble with coil control.

Honestly haven't had the pleasure yet..... Ever had a scope on the coil charge time under snap throttle conditions?

Like status has said. Anything can be tuned. Hell we even to a carby turbo 308..... May as well be a bucket with a hole in it but it works and its fast. Bloody fast. Its not The injector/coil control that I like about the wolf. Its the fact that when My customer says...... I would like to run boost over wheel speed. I can say yes no worries. But limit it when the engine is cold, yes no problem.... But I don't want to run more than 22 psi on transbrake.... yes not a drama. But I want my nos to turn on at full throttle, only when the the car is at 0 kph, only when its at 1 psi then turn off at 17 psi so I can leave off my transbrake at 22 psi with no gas. Yep easy as. Or I want to switch my AC on, and make my pump turn on, then 1 second later my fan to turn on, but turn off over 80% throttle or under 600rpm.... or when my cabin temp is below my desired input temp. Auto trans control, PWM line pressure over throttle position, Anything over anything with anything controlling it.......... Its only limitation is your imagination. Show me an ECU that can do this under 2k, with no additional add ons, upgrades or unlocks. Back on topic, yes Autronic SM4 is a great ECU. Just run there disk in your cas and have years of trouble free motoring and awesome injector control

Its a 4202.... on 12 psi....... with a standard engine....... just cam and springs..... Through an auto....... in full street trim/Exhaust. Made 695 on 17 psi and never had an issue...... ever....... The engine never died, never cracked a piston from this "timing drift" I hear so much about. The 1JZ is also a stock engine. No cams, No springs. No Pistons, nothing. Went 9.1@153 in a 3050 lbs car. Quickest 1JZ in the country and yes runs a wolf. We also have track cars, street cars, targa cars, boats and even hovercrafts that run wolfs. We dont have the dramas everyone else seems to plague these ECU's with. But, we also have cars that run Mircotechs.... and start in the mornings... ans run 9's.... with stock engines. We also tune Motec's that drive like dreams, Autronics that start and run and power the quickest single cam VL in QLD. Haltechs, EMS, Link They all work in there own respect..... Some ECU's are better than others than some things....... but you use the correct ecu for the application. If some one wants the best on board logging.... do you use a microtech or a wolf? What about PWM control over wheel speed and TPS do you use a Haltech? Or direct fire ignition on a V8? 2 Step... over wheel speed would you use an EMS? Budget...... Motec? I think not. Every ECU has its place in the market. I hate to say it but its the tuners that wont take the time to work out where an ECU will work and when it wont that cause the most trouble to the end user. End rant.

LOL, this man knows.

Anything I post, I make sure I know what I am saying and have some sort of real world relevance as an example. I don't just bust out comments like "More revs means more inefficiencies due to friction in all the moving parts" All the parts weigh the same, with more revs they are doing the same work more often. Does this make them or the engine less efficient? Now I don't know the answer. But do I post it unless I do know the answer. No

Its not a serious question, Its a trick question. Its also a demonstration to show that statements like the above shouldn't be posted unless you know exactly what you are talking about. Both engines use the similar fuel. most would say the same fuel. both do it in COMPLETELY different ways..... But both use very similar fuel quantities.

but the LS1 has more volume, and needs less load per liter to create the the same power. In a perfect world would have a smaller throttle opening but generate the same power. So you can tell me, on the same engine creating 2 different power out puts that fuel requirements per horsepower are COMPLETELY different But you cant tell me that with 2 completely different engines, creating the same horsepower your not to sure what one would use more fuel?

What uses completely more fuel. An Ls1 5.7 NA at 12.5:1 making 370rwhp Or a CA18 turbo at 12.5:1 making 370rwhp? Now we are talking massive measurable differences here so the answer should be very clear.

I do believe i said the same revs for different power. You should actually read my post before replying.