Gav

In actual fact they are fully automatic - you set the various parameters and the dyno program automatically runs according to the ramp up speed.

Great idea on the RPM switch! Another option might be to use the TPS also as many small factory cars do just this. They assume that when you have your foot flat that you want maximum power (funny that - eh?).

I'm pretty certain that they are the same brakes - only coloured gold. So, to answer your question, yes they should be a straight bolt on (but won't give you any advantage over R33 Brembos in good condition).

Would this be a mechanical type converter or an electronic type?

Hi Mark and thanks for the feedback - I hope you don't mind me posting you graph without permission! I went with the bridged manifold on your advice and am running a 136mm thick Apexi intercooler, so I would be stoked if I could get anywhere near the power that you predict these terbs are capable of. Agree - I don't want to start an agruement over how good or otherwise these terbs are - they are what I have and I'll give them the best shot I can of delivering the "goods".

Ludowici is your friend. You'll want to use the "nitrile" compound. http://www.ludowiciseals.com/pdf/Ludowici_Seals_O_Rings.pdf

Only one hole needs to be restricted - see below:

A dyno graph from a post last year. This was on an R34 GTR with GT-RS terbs at a high 30 psi of boost. Standard displacement RB26 but with high lift cams (greater than 11mm) and long duration (272 or more) from memory.

Thanks guys - does anyone know where the CPU take it's speed information from?

I was just about to post asking the question of speedo recalibration. Is this a difficult or expensive job? I assume that if a PFC is fitted this will read wrongly for speed? Cheers Gav

The dyno graph below was a "soft tune"at 18psi (only 1000km after run in) on a std RB26 capacity (actually 86.5mm bores) with GT-RS terbs on seperate HKS manifolds. Cams were HKS STEP2 264IN, 272EX. No real optimising of cam timing was done, so it may have been possible to bring on boost a little earlier. As Duncan suggested, these are "laggier" than most low mount alternatives, but they really have a great top end that in my case was only limited by the engine revs at that particular boost. Note that these are also prone to compressor surge or "shuffle" during boost build up (note the pressure fluctuations early in the curve) . I have since gone to a bridged manifold in order to help reduce this. In addition to the a 2.8L crank, I'm also putting in higher ratio diff centres (4.375) in order to give me a chance to use 3rd gear around town

Remembering that if you already have good aftermarket conrods, you only need purchase the stroker crank and the pistons.

Sort of an awkward shape, but better than nothing I guess. That thermo wrap is still pretty expensive, however, and for the sake of (say) 50 bucks I'd get them coated inside and out - especially if you are doing the terb housings and front pipes at the same time.

I personally think that the best "bang for buck" is to get mild steel dumps and have them ceramic coated. S/steel is not really needed as they're not prone to corrosion and not visible anyway. Ceramic coating is recommended because these suckers get REALLY hot and they radiate heat to other underbonnet parts like a bastard. While you're at it, coat the terb exhaust housings and exhaust front pipes as well.

Man - ever tried overtaking in an LH drive vehicle? It's hell scary let me tell you!

Man - ever tried overtaking in an LH drive vehicle? It's hell scary let me tell you!

Man - ever tried overtaking in an LH drive vehicle? It's hell scary let me tell you!

Brad I reckon the "flying brick" aerodynamics will prolly play an important part :lol: (sorry mate - couldn't resist it)

I've got to work O/S to pay for bloody RB26 rebuilds!

I'll have a 2.8L RB26 ready in a couple of months and will be able to post a "before and after" graphs using the same GT-RS terbs.

To save multiple logging devices - would it be possible to output A/F ratio data directly to a Datalogit?

Simon How is the D-Jetro around town compared to the std PFC - i.e. idling, cold start, AC on/off etc?

If you can leave your R standard, then you have more self control than just about anybody that I know. Since they respond SO well to mods and get the power down SO well, they just BEG for mods

Jun do an insert http://www.takakaira.com/aerokits/aerokiti...emenu.asp?cat=4