Gav

Yer - course I remember the "discussion" The reson that I'm asking is that before I destroyed my recently rebuilt engine, I passed the traps on the quarter spot on 200km/h and the tacho was around 8500. Unfortunately I never got a chance to see what the GT-RS terbs could really do in anger, but I reckon I've got the right "ingredients" to chase your outstanding result. BTW - looks like I'm gunna have another chance for that cryotreatment!

Great result! If you have std diff ratios it looks like you're well over the 9 grand mark at the top of fourth? What rods and crank are you running? Cheers Gav

Am I missing something here????? The whole idea of a aftermarket ECU is being able to load custom maps to suit what you're doing with your car!! Get it tuned for std unleaded and you'll not only travel safely, you'll be able to get an "economy tune" if the tuner knows what he's doing. As TJ says, it'll be at a lower boost with some timing taken out. You should also be able to lean out the off boost/low boost load points and save some fuel as well! Just make sure that you well and truely flush the std fuel before reloading the "nasty" maps.

Only Easter for you non-orthodox heathens - we gotta wait another month or so in Eastern Europe

As you say, the system isn't full time 4WD, however the ATTESSA computer compares the speed of the front and rear wheels and uses this information to decide if there is any slip present. If you have different rolling diameters between front and rear axles, there will be a constant partial torque split to the front and hence a constant pressure in the transfer case.

Yer TJ - but what you couldn't see in that one is that the catch can is half full of oil!! Yep - ferkin' cold here atm, but skiing on weekends is good and cheap! Ciao Gav

Yer good bloke - dropped ya a PM!

The short answer of what you need is money and time. Unless the engine has newly refurbished and strengthened internals, expect to be up for a rebuild sooner rater than later at the power levels that you asked about. You have what should be a well matched and balanced setup and should give decent reliability - consider if you have the cash and the patience to go to the next step. Good luck Gav

V-Nice......must get me one of them gtr thingys one day.....mebee in black too!

Also go into map trace mode and have a look at what cells it jumps around at. Make sure adjacent cells (in the idle area) have the same fueling and ignition values. You may find that changing AFM has moved the idle into different cells (probably along the load axis which is defined by the AFM output).

Even the factory ECUs are interchangable

Should be OK as long as you take it easy. Just remember to select the appropriate AFM option.

The whole point of putting on larger AFM's is that the std units run out of resolution at PEAK load. By no coincidence this is where you are also likely to do damage to your engine if it is out of tune. Short answer - fit them at the tuners (although you can set up the brackets for the pods etc at home to save mucking arout at the tuners).

There is no applicable duty of "air compressors" Word the invoice correctly and customs should be sweet.

The only use my rear wiper/washer system gets is to judge how well you launch - the wetter the back windscreen, the harder the launch!

3 Points and $150. Was originally Reckless driving charge (9 points and ?????I think) but I fought it in court. Tried to outrun a cop on a motorbike through the suburbs. He claimed in court that I reached 150km/h on a particular street. I presented a Lands and Survey Department map that showed the street was only 300 metres long and argued that my car (which was wrongly described in the police statement as a Nissan Pulsar) could not possibly have done that as it "was only a 4 cyl Nissan" and that the cop was grossly exagerating the facts. The judge said I wasn't an angel but he sided my way more than the cop's and hence discounted the charge considerably. I was driving my old S15 at the time which was running a Garret GT25/35 supported by big injectors, PFC, front mount etc. Oh, btw, I think that the cop was actually pretty well on the money with his statement - just wrote down the car model by mistake!

Danny looked after the customs clearance and compliancing for my R under the old system. Good service and a genuine guy to deal with.

Go the PFC as one of your first upgrades. It'll ensure that you get the best out of all future mods. Also, you actually lose little value off a PFC as they're pretty "sellable" down the track. If you do buy a used one, just make sure that it is recent enough to be compatible with the Datalogit software.

Funny you should mention this. Just got the latest HPI magazine (delivered to Bulgaria) and they go through the differences in the R32,33 and 34 RB26 donks. They state that the R34 cams are NOT compatible with earlier RB26 heads.

BA Falcon rims with 1" spacers work a treat on my R32 GTR. Plenty of room under the guards so would probably be OK for an R33 as well.

I'll be there - may be the only chance for a cruise before I head back to the snow!

I gotta find me some AC gas first! Man, came from -15C and now I'm running around in a black car with no AC!

Thanks Lauren - great night! Hope to catch up with all again before I head back to the snow and cold in a few weeks. Cheers Gav

To add insult to injury, BP98 made in Kwinnana is sold cheaper in the Eastern States than it is sold in Perth (or even Kwinnana). We actually subsidise some of the transport costs to the Eastern States!