Gav

If you've got the time, start assembling the expensive bits and pieces first. Not only does it spread the pain (don't add up what it costs what ever you do!), but allows you to pick up the odd bargain.

Niz I'll be coming - arrive the day before! Can I suggest that I'm the contender for the least kms driven, thickest layer of dust, most money spent per km etc? lol

Q&S answer. No it's not Yes you will

No sweat Rev btw - did Lumpy or Ken confirm that it's NOT the Pro version? I was never sold to me as such (nor did I sell it as a Pro version), but it has the "PFC PRO" sticker on it? Interesting...

Rev Glad it worked out for you. Did they manage to get the Datalogit to work with it - I only tried on an older version of the Datalogit and it wasn't compatible. Well done Gav

Trust the above few posts - once you've got the power bug, it bites hard. Especially so in an R as it get the power to the ground so well. A year or so down the track when you're strapping on those high mount(s) you'll always have the thoughts of those std rods in the back of your mind. While your at it, check to make sure that the crankshaft/oil pump setup is of the later type.

I got one of these suckers on my R and they fit up really nicely. You don't need the N1 flutes either as they aren't as tall as other aftre market 'coolers.

Thanks Fabs

If you cen get trade price, try Nissan for the price of a new block - I recall they were quite reasonably priced (sorry, can't remember exact $$$)

Yep - I put my old Mines R32 ECU into a mates R33 for a dyno run. No problems.

Personally I'm sceptical about the effect of the plenum temperature on air temperature. There is a huge volume on air passing over a relatively small surface area. Given Julian's fondness for calculating airflow into an engine, I'm suprised it was published. A quick calc on an RB25 engine: 2.5L @ 6,000 rpm with volumetric efficiency of say 1.5 on a 4 stroke engine sees more than 90 litres of air passing through the plenum per second. Now if my maths is right, the relatively small internal surface area of the won't have a huge affect as there is simply not enough contact time.

I had a PFC in my old S15 and until recently a PFC in my R. I liked them and found the HC a useful "extra gauge". I particularly liked the knock monitor function as this gave me a good indication as to "how far from the edge" the car was tuned. This helps with "road tuning" for conditions that don't show up on dyno runs (such as very hot weather, sustained high speed/high boost runs on the open road etc). Without a Datalogit, the PFC is a time consuming to tune. Note that there are firmware quirks between the models with the PFC and not all of the older models are supported by the Datalogit. If you want to be able to log data and change maps (even infrequently), then the Datalogit is essential. When you factor in the cost of the PFC, HC, Datalogit, bigger AFM's, it actually starts to become a fairly expensive package. I've chosen to go the Wolf route as I've seen some excellent results first hand from SST on GTR's. For me it's a case of following in the footsteps of people that have achieved first hand what I am aiming for. My advice is speak to and spend time with owners of each unit and weigh up the pros and cons based on where you (realistically) want to go with your 'line.

Most tuners with a dyno should already have a Datalogit, saves them time, you money and stress on your car! If you want to change maps quickly (say one map for the track and another for dyno comps) the Datalogit is really the only way. Sure it's not perfect, but a hell of a lot better than tuning using the handset! Plus it gives you access to a few other functions that you can't access via the handset.

Lots of options: * HKS do a supercharger kit * APS do a twin turbo kit - http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/350z/350z.htm * Xspeed in Perth did a twin turbo - http://www.xspeed.com.au/ssport/35z33/index.html Personally, I believe that you have to spend too much money to do it properly. At the end of the day, it (probably) won't have the power and (definately) won't have the traction of a mildly tuned R34 GTR. Also, the GTR will be much easier to sell.

Well bugger me if I wasn't filling up the Lada the other day and there in front of me was a LHD Ceffy! Didn't know they made a LHD version, much less expected to see one in Bulgaria! Sorry - didn't snap a piccy but will keep an eye out!

Lots of threads on clutches. Ross's Autoclutch do a good single at a reasonable price. I hear that Ken and Lumpy at Hyperdrive do the same unit at a good price. Can't go wrong with either in a rwd Skyline unless you're aiming at lots of drag work. Cheers Gav

Nice result - good to see some low mounts besides 25/30 make a good time. Do you have a dyno graph by chance?

Main issues are the valve guides and retainers - apparently there are a number of different types depending on the lift (or "Step") of the cam. I haven't talked to the workshop that did the head work, but at a guess I would say I bought the "Step Pro" instead of the "Step 2".

Don't make my mistake. I ordered valve guides, springs and retainers after I bought my step 2 cams. There was a lot of additional machining/shimming. Buy the set with the cams as they will all be matched. Should only have the machining to clear the lobes and basic shimming to do then.

Pete - ya really giving them "no brand" garrets a hammering! Did you take note of the intake temps on the PFC readout? Interested as 20 psi is getting up there for std garrets according "folklaw" - or maybe your putting an urban myth to bed! Either way - congrats!

A programmable ECU will enable you to tune to what YOU consider a priority and not what the manufacturor wants. For example, normally you are tuning for power and/or torque. Tuning for fuel efficiency however, is another option. Unfortutely you need the Datalogit and a laptop to have multiple maps, but you could, in theory you could have an ultra conservative map (low boost, retarded ignition) to enable 95 octane fuel for a long drive or country trip, and an second for high boost and power applications where you only can run 98 fuel.

Ok - the R33 is a bit more complicated as it has the Super HICAS - i.e. the electro version (and not the R32 hydraulic). Tomei do an electronic module that fools the HICAS computer into thinking all is OK. This kit only comes with washers/shims that lock the existing bar, however.

haven't heard back from you on my offer - do you still have these?

Mark - you've got an R32, right? If so, this is easy, this just involves dropping out the whole rear rack including valves etc and replacing it with a fixed bar. The tie rods screw into this. The hydraulic hoses are disconnected and the kit comes with bolts that block off the hydraulic hoses. I think that just aout every workshop sells these now. I know that SST, C-Red and Hyperdrive all can help you out with these. Again, there is a guy on the forums here who sells them for a $100 (off memory?).

Might be a good chance to buy a hicas lock kit. These don't normally come with the tie rods, but you can get these fairly easily. Mine were worn and Wilkinson's Suspension had some second hand. There are also quite a few options for rose jointed lower control arms as well. I got mine (altough not fitted yet) from a guy over east who makes his own up. Try posting in the wanted to buy or suspension sections.