Gav

********SOLD******** R32/33 GTR Power FC/Hand Controller/Boost Control Kit

Whilst they share the same pads as GTST (and S14, S15, Landcruiser, WRX.......), they are a thicker and stronger caliper developing more clamping force. Before you spend big bucks on upgrading, do the basics and you will be amazed at the difference: * change brake fluid for good quality * check brake hoses and replace with braided (ADR) items * make sure discs aren't grooved and machine/replace if necessary AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, * Use good quality pads My std GTR brakes have held up to serious track days just by changing out the brake fluid regularly and using good quality pads on the front. Personally I use Pagid blue, expensive but bloody good

Ah - showing my age here (first did this on my 186 red motor when I was at Uni). OK - for the head, lay the face on a sheet of thick glass (a fair assumption that this is flat) and see if it rocks around (i.e. like a table with one leg too short). Also for the head and block, lay a straight edge (steel ruler) along it and shine a torch from behind it to check for light between the surface and the ruler. Hope it helps Gav

Actually BOTH models are getting long in the tooth now (unless you pick up a Series 3 R33). Given that both models have been driven fairly hard (why else would you buy an R?), I would assume that unless the previous owner has spent the time and money, you will be up for some major maintenance expenses sooner or later (take note on how many RBs are being rebuilt around the country atm - including mine!). If you like the R32, I would pick one with a straight body and spend the saved money on a motor rebuild and suspension upgrade including replacement of all bushes. If you go the R33, chose carefully and don't blow all your dosh, as there will very likely be some hidden expenses down the track. In conclusion, don't be put off if this is your dream - they are great cars!

Mayhem normally gets pretty decent stuff and is a straight shooter. Happy with the bits I've got from him so far.

PM sent

I would imagine there are/should be "anti-squeal" shims and clips fitted to these brakes from the factory. My GTR with the std Sumitomo brakes still had theseon when I got it. I can understand why people may leave these off when you change disc pads as they are fiddly farkers to put back on and they don't actually affect brake performance. They do stop the bloody squeal, 'tho. Suggest someone with Nissan Fast program checks out if the Brembos came with them out of the factory.

You are probably right - my old Mines ECU had a big dob of epoxy resin over the eeprom chip. Other brands probably follow suit. As Steve-SST says above, I am selling my GTR PFC/HC/Boost Kit at a very cheap price in order to help pay for my rebuild. PM me if you are interested. Gav

Or just use the R32 ECU in the R33 - my old Mines ECU did the rounds of Perth including an R33.

Does it matter?

No problems running "moderate" upgraded terbs with the std ecu. You will start to approach the limit of the std injectors and prolly also be near the limit of the afms. Check the a/f ratios on a dyno, however, to ensure all is OK with fuel supply however. gtrken on these forums has prolly done this a squillion times before and could offer more advice.

350 Holley

Good system - not too droney at cruise but wakes up when you give it to it. Not too restrictive on moderate power applications, but will know for sure in a few weeks when the new motor is back in (with considerable more power)

If you're getting a workshop to do the work, Jap name brands work out to about the same as a Bosch after messing around with filters, and wiring in new plugs etc. I used a Nismo and it dropped in easy as. As Penfold said - it's a GTR - you don't make many (reliable) performance enhancements for under $500 dollars on these cars.

Paul - a little bird told me that you took my stuff to get coated - right?

Ferk - gonna be some pissed off/surprised knuckle draggers around Bunners! Love it!

Correct Engine is on rubber mounts (ie moves), strut brace is not. It will hit. If it was sold/advertised as for a strut for your R32 (RB20 version, not GTR), send it back. Under fair trading act it is not fit for the advertised duty.

Oh - forgot to mention that restricted KM's per year (for me under 5,000) saves you heaps in insurance (I have a restricted KM policy with Shannons)

Get yourself a bunky in additionfor the following reasons: * Easier to drive in heavy traffic (especially if the bunky's an automatic) * Can park anywhere without worrying about theft/vandalism etc * Prolly better on fuel for commute duties * Enables you to do a lot of work on your car yourself without the stress of being totally reliant on it for transport * Reduces speeding fines (which I find directly proportional to the amount of time I spend in my R)

Thought about the glue option myself - will give it a go (in an inconspicuous area first) cheers

Nothing too serious, but the vinyl has lifted from a couple of places near tight creases on my R32 dash. Can this be repaired easily?

Fair cop JAGR33 - never to old to learn

Hmmmm........funny how the bar keeps lifting as to what is cheap. I landed my god condition and original (even OEM exhaust and airbox intact) '93 GTR here at the end of the old scheme for $26k on the road. Purchase price at the time was 950,000 yen and the aud:yen rate was pretty average then (around 62 off memory). When the hype really started to accelerated on 15 year old GTRs early last year, people were throwing around figures such as $15K on the road here. Then we hear $20k ex Japan. This number seems to be steadily climbing, despite a stronger aud.

The point of my original post was that you can't fit a true dual system with two cats under a GTR AFAIK. Happy to be proved wrong 'tho

Ah bugger....I posted on the wrong forum....no, wait a minute....this is the SKYLINE forum! The thread is about GTRs dude