Gav

Rare because they are illegal for road use - you can't fit 2 cats on a dual terb to tip exhaust. Agree - they sound hell good 'tho

Paul ya know the Eastern Staters will think that you pulled this stunt just so you don't have to run down the quarter and prove that you paid SST to fiddle the dyno graph! :wassup:

Get a used PFC and hold on to your old ECU. You will be able to sell parts (PFC, Z32 AFMs etc) separately for near what you bought them for when you eventually get rid of the car.

Merli - great idea, but logistics are a touch difficult! I actually DO live in Bulgaria (I'm not taking the piss in my details). Car is being rebuilt in Perth atm with some serious internals to support the 25/40s and ensure a wide curve (i.e. extended rev range). The dyno work WILL be done on a DD unit in Shoot Out Mode, however. And, as stated, WILL be tuned for torque, not just peak power.

Sounds like you need a V8 then! Me personally, I find the non linear power delivery addictive. Don't want to start the HKS25/40 debate again but I was on 1 bar of boost by 4,000 using these terbs prior to doing my big end bearing. Adjusting the cam timing gave a solid mid range punch with a similar shape to my std terbs (although obviously much higher!). I found them to be a solid street/track option. With the present rebuild, I expect the head porting and the HKS exhaust manifold will ensure that this mid range bulge is retained. Hopefully have a power curve in a few weeks for comparison.

Normally just strain the old oil through a stocking and reuse it. When it gets too thick to go through the funnel, I replace it with Big W Super - $10 for 4 litres. Too hard and messy to get to the oil filter on a GTR, so don't replace it.

As I said - in an earlier post, I've been to court 4 times on driving charges (3 were multanova). Won 2, lost 2. If you want some facts rather than heresay and "a mate of mine" stories, PM me. Gav

The GTR factory gauge reads pressure in mm of mercury x 100. 7 boost gauge = 700mm Hg = 0.92 bar = 13.53 psi trouble is that the boost gauge isn't that accurate, so the 7 could really be 7.5 or 8.

If it is ONLY a fine, it would be automated. My guess is that they are going for something more serious that will result in a summons, as I said. Probably Dangerous Driving. In court, they can also ask the judge for MORE than the minimum penalty, eg suspension of licence.

Fane I don't condone speeding but I HATE speed cameras on principal. I take EVERY speeding camera fine to court on this principal. Now, the reason that the police want to see you is most likely to get you to admit that it was you driving at the time. I suspect that they will be wanting to get information to issue you with a Careless or Dangerous Driving charge. When they knock on your door for a "little chat", in reality it will be far from that. Almost certainly there will be 2 of them and with ABSOLUTE certainty, anything that you say WILL be taken down and used as evidence against you (don't think we are in the USA and have Miranda rights). OK, when they do manage to catch up with you (and they will), be polite but give as LITTLE information as possible. For example state that you are certain that it was NOT you driving and that you don't know who was. They obviously won't like this answer and threaten you with all sorts of things (eg. "tell us the truth or we will prosecute you for obstruction" etc). Don't worry, but just don't get drawn into long conversations. I normally just apologise that that I cannot talk further and that I have nothing further to say on the matter. This is the hardest part because they are trained to interrogate and "bully" you into giving incriminating information. The Police Prosecution section much prefer to go to court with incriminating statements, usually obtained during this first "little chat". Now, when you do get the official infringement, go and have a look at the photo and see how recognisable you are in the photo. If you are not recognisable, then you have a better than even chance of getting off in court (I have won 2, lost 2). We can cross that bridge when we come to it. If it's obviously your mug, then your best bet is to plead guilty with mitigating circumstances as to why it was not "Dangerous" or "Careless" driving, but merely speeding on a clear, empty road (insert explainations here). Feel free to PM me on my past experiences. Good luck Gav

If you want to use standard fuel, retard the timing and lower the boost. Long term option, do a N/A conversion. Better still, sell your Skyline and drive a Hyundai!

Ken sounds like you just described how I abused my old motor to a tee: * Strap on a pair of big terbs onto a tired motor with low compression. * Wind up the boost to compensate for low compression. * Periodically drain the oil from the dual purpose induction air heat exchanger/oil catch vessel (aka intercooler). * Ignore intermittent knock warning on the PFC 'cause your half way through opening a can of "woop ass" for some knuckle dragger who thinks his new Genie headers make him unbeatable. * Continue to ignore the dull wop-wop thud that happens at a characteristic 3,000 rpm. Bloody amazing that I only cracked a crank and spun a bearing or two. Tough things them RBs, all things considered!

You can pick up used GTR rods cheaply. Get these crack tested and shot peaned and you will have some cheap and stronger rods.

Still reckon best bang-for-buck for similar money would be a pair of used N1 (or equivalent) terbs. For around $1,500, you'll get a lot more gain for your $$$. Especially given that you already have the PFC fitted. Fit the cams later when you hunger for more power intensifies (and it will - trust me!)

The heads are a world apart both in design and flow capabilities.

I'm not even gonna start on my experiences with wastegates!

Probably not much improvement to be made in peak power. Like adjustable cam wheels, you can probably change the shape of the power/torque curve. I'd save money for upgrading the terbs first.

sex with TWINS or BI sexual - I know which I'd rather!

Lauren sorry to hear about your bad luck. Always seems to be the way - just after you spend the money on the engine, a mis-hap like this happens! Make SURE you see your doctor and tell him you were in a motor vehicle accident. Some injuries don't present for weeks or months later. It makes a huge difference to any future claim. Touch wood it's all OK, however.

an' if ya get really bored, bolt on a pair of spacesavers onto the rear end as well! :wassup:

Yep - only one kit is listed for Nissans. PM me if keen.

I hope to prove this wrong. Had strong mid range on my std (but tired) RB26 with 25/40s. The adjustable cam gears helped to reduce the lag considerably. With new cams and zaust manifolds going on as part of the rebuild, I hope to have a torque curve as wide as Summoners but with a higher peak (+500 hp). Engine should be back from the machine shop this week, so maybe a few weeks away yet if all goes well.

Still Available

Summoner - you should know the rules by now! It's not permitted to use Wolf on GTRs in the Eastern States! :jk:

Don't automatically assume the rear end "vague/wandering" feeling is due to the HICAS. I locked out my HICAS, and during the job found that the rear tie rods were rooted. The play in the rods were almost as much as the HICAS movement! Advice - R32s are getting on in years - check all rods, bushes and knuckles for play and replace as necessary. The parts aren't expensive and it's amazing what difference it makes.