Gav

Brendo - nice work on the links. Gees my missus is gonna hate you! Cheers Gav

True, however UK cars are a heap more expensive due to their initial import tariffs, and smaller market compared to the rest of Europe. Fellow over here bought a 1999 M3 BMW (LHD) last month with 25,000 kms for 20,000 Euro. I had a drive and it feels like it goes bloody hard, although couldn't do too much on the icy roads!

True, some nice mafia Beemers and Mercs here going real cheap, but all LHD. Anyone know who does Euro conversions in Perth and the cost?

I'll have a closer look at what's around in the UK, but from what I have seen anything decent still looks pretty pricey.

OK - let your imagination run free here for a moment. I will be OS for a couple of years and can bring back to Australia basically any vehicle as a personal import. I'm in Europe (actually Bulgaria) but can import and register right hand drive cars here, so no probs with bringing in a Jap car here first for the minimum 12 months (except for the transport costs) before sending back to Oz. Plenty of cheap Porsches and Beemers here, but they are left hand drive and I don't want to drive a LHD car (or do the conversion) back in Oz. I'm leaning towards an Evo 7 or perhaps an Autech S15 convertible (do a turbo conversion back in Oz of course!). Needs to be a decent sort of a car 'tho as the transport costs and rego/insurance/storage costs here will add about $10k to the vehicle. Suggestions?

False information. I have swapped both PFC and std ECUs between R32 and R33 GTRs without problems. Cheers Gav

The lack of battery suggests that this is a photo of an R33 front cut (the R32 has the battery under the bonnet). The serial no of the ECU suggests that it is an R32 (I have an R32 ECU with serial no. 23710 05V61). It is not uncommon to find R32 ECUs in R33 GTR as they are interchangable, however the R32 ECU can be more easily fitted with a writable chip. Hope this helps. Gav

Can I "hire" it for my R for the next 2 weeks?

Thanks guys - found some bum ugly Ford pursuit rims. Now for some of Korea's (or Taiwan's) best in economy radials to be fitted and I'm away!

72,000 km. PM me your details and I can send COD for that (just )

This is in good condition and supported 340 rwhp before I upgraded the terbs and injectors recently. Available in Perth or can COD for $20 extra.

Has anyone got a PCF fuel map for an RB26 with 550cc injectors? As I haven't got the updated Datalogit software for my version yet, it will save a sh1t load of tuning time if I can go off someone elses map. Please PM if you can help. Cheers Gav

Adrian thanks - can you PM me Aidwin's number? Not sure now that the std Skyline rims will clear the GTR brakes - anyone know for sure?

I need to borrow a set of rims for this Saturday's drift training session. If anyone has some 16" rims available (Skyline or Silvia) please let me know. Usual conditions apply - carton of Crownies and any damage paid for. give me a call or SMS on 0409950295. Cheers Gav

The following DIY projects fall into the same catagory for the inexperienced: * Undertaking laser eye surgery * Performing a vasectomy * Tuning a programmable ECU in real time good/funny to watch someone else have a go, but I'd rather leave it to the professionals:p

I feel sorry for my R already - drift training session is on the day before! No matter - I'll be there provided something doesn't go bang previously!

Steve strap on dem pair 'o 40s and wind up the boost - Paul needs some learnin'!

Steve I'm sure that my car will be there, however I would rather be spinning the rollers and not sitting in the corner of SST in bits;)

Sydneykid Valid point that the PFC can only use the OEM sensors that Nissan fit. In fact, I find the diagnostics screen bloody useful - it helped me identify a dirty AFM as well as recalibrate the TPS for a more stable idle. Granted also that adding an air temp. sender (either by need or desire) cannot be considered P&P, but it's also not rocket science! Likewise for adding a MAP sender if you want to do away with the AFM(s). I wouldn't imagine that setting these up on any aftermarket ECU (Wolf, Autronic or Motec) would be difficult or time consuming to a tuner who is familiar with the ECU. My point is that it is nice to have the option of additional inputs should you want to. If/when I find myself with another SR20 equipped car, it will definately not be the PFC based on my previous experiences. For the moment, however, the PFC does everything I need it to for the GTR and probably will for the future.

I've run PFC on both my old S15 and now on my GTR. The big issue that I had on the S15 PFC was that there was no (accessible) inlet manifold air temp compensation. This meant that what was considered a conservative tune in the cooler months, became dangerous during Perth's hot summer and I believe was a fundamental cause in destroying no. 2 piston. After the engine rebuild, we did dyno testing with the old tune parameters and actually heard detonation (using microphone pickup), however the Nissan knock sensor never went beyond 30 as shown on the PFC. There was not at the time (nor is there now I believe) a Datalogit available for the S15 to adjust air temp. compensation. I knew all of these short comings when I decided to go PFC for my GTR, however the basis of my decision was that there are plenty of second hand (read cheap) PFCs available for the GTR (R32/33) and I have access to a Datalogit for this model. As it turns out, the GTR PFC has air temp correction available through the handset and with the twin knock sensors seems to give much more reliable information and therefore, IMHO, a safer tune. I have seen a fair bit of tuning done at SST with both the Wolf and the PFC and I think that it is a credit to Steve that he has taken the time to learn the PFC and is purchasing the Datalogit in order to be able to tune it better. This is despite him being a Wolf dealer. There is only one (or two at the most) other tuner that I know of in Perth that doesn't bag the PFC. In conclusion which would I choose again? Definitely Wolf P&P for the SR20 motor, definitely PFC for R34 GTR (in order to keep the center display and avoid piggy back setups) and the R32/33 GTR - well let's just say I'll be looking VERY closely at the new Wolf P&P when it's fully released. Hope the above comments add to the discussion.

Ant's first job will be on my R. BTW Steve, when can I get it dropped over? Bits and pieces (terbs, injectors, fuel pumps) should be arriving at your doorstep in dribs and drabs by now;)

Got one of Ross's clutches in the R. So far survived 2 sessions at the Plex with 7k launches! Feels like an OEM clutch is installed, however. I'm not kidding myself that it will last forever, however if it lasts me a year, I'm still ahead of buying a $3k twin plate (that I doubt will last 3 years!)

Not for long Paul - should be bolting on a couple of 25/40s in the next couple of weeks anong with some bigger injectors. Hope to have all/most done by the time I get back to Perth in early Nov.

Steve - I was only asking when I could book in - it's not that big a job;) Good luck - have seen this coming for some time now!

Sean - not sure of the weight difference, but nothing in the drivetrain is light. When I ripped out the HICAS and replaced it with a solid bar I saved more than 10kg! Nothing secret in the R32 about 2wd mode, just pull the fuse. As there isn't a free wheeling hub set-up in GTRs, there will still be added resistance of the front drive shafts free wheeling when driving. I can't imagine that this plays a part on the dyno, however.