Gav

Increase ignition advance for the bottom cells in the rev and load axis . Won't do any harm (detonation is very unlikely to occur in the region of 1000 to 1300 rpm and 1 to 3 load bands). Don't increase by more than 2 or 3 compared to neighbouring cells, however, as hunting will occur. Keep a reference of these cells before you make changes and see how you go. Cheers Gav

Hmmm....sounds bloody interesting. I reckon your plan sounds good, with the addition of cam gears and a nice free flowing exhaust including front pipes, you should be able to spool up a fair bit earlier. I'd be interested to hear how you go.

Hmmm....interesting comment? I would think quite the opposite, especially with you being in Perth. The most sales of Wolf in the country come out of SST in Perth and I have seen nothing but excellent support from them. Can't comment on other states, however I know that SST is very helpful with sharing tune maps, so I would think that it not be a big issue regardless of where you live provided you've got access to a dyno and A/F meter.

Ask if your tuner already has the Datalogit for your model. If so just get the PFC if you're on a budget. If not (and you are on the tight budget), get the Datalogit in preference to the H/C. If you get both, you have the added functionality of real time display as well as faster and more precise tuning. You are getting pretty close to the cost of a "high end" ECU, however. There are other locally made (and supported) ECUs available for the price of a PFC, however. Consider the Wolf P&P as well.

Taikakara site used to have a dyno graph comparing with/without the Nismo Plenum. There was bugger all (few percent at most) power difference through the whole rev range. The main claim to fame was that air distribution was normalised, preventing preferential flow to the rear cylinders. The main problem with this is leaning out of the rear cylinders, particularly when the AVERAGE a/f ratio is near the limit. If you have an after market ECU, it is much cheaper to measure the individual exhaust runners (using an infrared thermometer gun) and trim the individual injectors whilst on the dyno. I richened up #6 cylinder by 5% and #5 cylinder by 3% which gave temperature differences within 10C front to rear. BTW - average temps were around 580C on the outside of the factory cast manifolds. If you don't have a decent ECU, then spend your money on this first.

Sorry Cam - 3rd gear failure in R33 GTRs is almost considered "textbook". A second hand gearbox is the cheapest and fastest way to go. Obviously some risk, 'tho. For a rebuild, parts alone (3rd gear, syncros, bearings etc) will be approaching the cost of a used box without labour. If you want to have a go at it yourself, there's a good thread with photos on rebuilding a box (do a search) and the R32 Service Manual has additional information.

Steve better get another dozen sets of pistons and rods over, I reckon there's a few more terminal RB's still in the pipeline - watch this space!

Shoot dang there are a lot of RBs (25s and 26s) dying around Perth of late! I reckon that of you had half a dozen of each already rebuilt with pistons and rods (maybe some with OEM rods, some with forgies), you'd have no lack of customers! :uh-huh:

The photos of the slugs hanging upside down is somewhat surreal - reminds me of carcasses hanging in the abattoir! Rep - My rods will available shortly (maybe next week) if you're interested.

Hmmmm.......An interesting one. I think most "serious" GTR buyers would realise that an engine rebuild is on the cards sooner or later, especially when you start to lean on an older motor fairly heavily. Me personally? I would have been happy to have had the opportunity to buy my GTR for say $3,000 cheaper (guessing this amount for a BASIC rebuild including parts and labour) as I was expecting a rebuild anyway (although it did come a bit TOO soon). See how many bites you get first. Good luck dude.

On a serious note - I have bought used units in the past without any probs. May get lucky and score the pair for around the $1,000 mark if you are patient.

Should be for the life of the car provided you don't jump start too often :wassup:

I've heard quite a few Arias fitted RB engines and they generally sound less "rattley" than say an engine rebuilt with Wiseco slugs. I've been told that this is because they have a lower co-efficient of thermal expansion compared to other forged pistons, and therefore the clearances can be less (ie more in line with OEM pistons). Anyone know for sure?

PM'ed you regarding the R34 Rims Waiting..............

Sorry Erik Too wide and wrong offset, no probs on an R33 GTR and just fits on the R32 GTR.

my stockers come out this week - PM me if interested

320 rwhp at 0.9 bar with pods and HKS front pipes/zaust (DynoDynamics, Shootout mode). Both Micko and GotBoost got something similar I recall with the same ECU (all of us use programable ECUs now, btw).

My GTR had a Mines computer in it when it arrived. The ECU had a Mines badge on it and tamper proof stickers to show that it hadn't been opened since leaving the Mines' Workshop. Anyway, I opened it up and there was a Mines' chip on the board, however it had a great big blob of expoxy resin over the chip preventing it being removed from the socket. In theory it would be possible to carefully solder on a socket from underneath the circuit board if you wanted to read maps, but personally I wouldn't bother. Basically the differences were that there was no speed cut and the fuel maps were VERY rich. After lifting boost to 1 bar, the AFR came back down to a more realistic level of around 12.5:1, but still resulted in a puff of black smoke when boost came on and some flames from the zaust (no cat then) on rapid throttle off. Steve from SST saw this actual ECU on his dyno in at least 2 other cars, and he may remember the settings better than me. I doubt that the ignition maps were altered, however, as we were able to advance the CAS 5 degrees to pick up some power without any detonation. There is a good thread on chip replacment and chip programming - do a search. Personally, I would go the P&P route as ECU's such as Wolf (or used PFC) have never been cheaper and are typically less than the cost of a name brand exhaust. You can always recoup most of the money spent on the ECU by selling it separately when you sell the car, not so for a rechipped original ECU.

Yes - I know No - It doesn't Shouldn't prevent you using a wet system, 'tho.

Damn Sean, and I remember when you came within a bee's dick of selling your R32! Good to see another WA time on the back cover of HPI mag. Well done, and keep up the good work mate.

OK - I reserve number 68 That's where Niz gives me a HJ and I owe her one! :aroused:

Jash - feel for ya dude, been a lot of effort on the R, I'm sure it will come together shortly. BTW - were you riunning the OS gear set? How did it perform? No problem with shifts at high revs?

That mate that was wit you was running along the side all the time

How about an LH Torana? First production car in the world to have a 4 cyl (1900 Opel), 6 cyl (173 and 202 ) and 8cyl (253 and 308) available ex factory. Showing my age now!

Ah - some interesting chemistry here girls and boys. The cars actually ran on "water gas" which is a mixture of carbon monoxide and hydrogen formed when water (or steam) is contacted with hot carbon (charcoal or coke). H20 + C = CO + H2 Both carbon monoxide and hydrogen are combustible and have a high energy value. Petrol engines also run quite happily on water gas with only slight modifications. The main down side is safely collecting and storing this highly poisonous gas. It was quite common for the large rubberised fabric bags to leak, hence they were generally mounted on the roof of the cars and busses.