Gav

I bought a brand new S15 in 2000. The service manual said to bring it in at 1,000 kms where a basic inspection was carried out as well as an oil and filter change. Used and specified sdt Nissan semi-synthetic oil.

If anyone has a pair of these for sale please PM me ASAP. Thanks Gav

Gets discussed almost monthly - do a search. Me personally - BCPR7ES NGK's gapped at 0.8mm - cheap and reliable

Can vouch for that - did the compliance on my R under the old system and arranged EVERYTHING for me whilst I was in China (i.e. above and beyond the call of duty - actually I think that I still owe him a box o' beers).

The main downside to a smaller gap that I can see is the increased likelyhood of fouling(carbon deposits joining the tip to the electrode, thus no spark at all). This is the reason that I no longer use platinums, as when I used a smaller gap, I still had to remove them regularly for cleaning anyway. Use coppers in the correct heat range for your application, gap to 0.8mm and check/clean/replace regularly. Oh - and don't use octane booster if you can avoid it - it deposits a coating that also encourages fouling.

I only used one bolt with a spring washer into the threaded cover bolt hole as two.06l states above. It's not very heavy and hasn't moved yet.

Guys - I'm still hell skeptical Unless I see hard evidence of ceramic bits in the engine bores I can't possibly see how parts can travel back against the pressure in the exhaust manifold, then through the head ports and finally back down into the bores when the valves are opening. Just think about it for a moment - what sort of velocity is the gas travelling OUT of the exhaust ports at - friggin' heaps! I'm not doubting that when you open the engine up that there is bore damage - I'm just hell skeptical that it is caused by ceramic exhaust wheel parts.

Sent 2 emails so far - no reply yet

Worth being aware 'tho that they do take the odd "thump" from speed bumps. Mine are pretty dented, but being mild steel are quite flexible and haven't broken yet.

Chasp - I picked a used HKS set of front pipes - made a significant difference to the spool up of the terbs. Mine are just mild steel, but I got them recently ceramic coated to keep the passenger floor cooler! HKS have the single flex also BTW.

Sold

Knock, AFM and Inj warnings all flash at different frequencies - forget what each is but check the manual

Pauter Titanium Rods ......mmmmmmmm :aroused:

Silly comment dude. Ceramic wheel is on the exhaust side - it'll end up in the cat (or out the exhaust if you don't have a cat).

The 25/10s are unlikely to produce your goal of 500 rwhp. The std afms will run out of resolution well before 500 rwhp. It's not so much a case of restriction, but resolution. The PFC (and any ECU including the original for that matter) uses two 3d maps (one for timing, one for fuel injection). Each map uses load as the y axis as determined by the afm output. OK, if you run out of resolution for load (ie the afms are beyond maximum resolution) you can only use one load value for both timing and fuel injection beyond this point. This means a compromise in power at best, and engine damage at worst. The cheaper RB25 afms will give you enough headroom for the 25/10s. Don't get hung up on hp numbers - if you have a good low restrictive exhaust system (you didn't mention what you have) and tune to suit, then you will have a very responsive and quick GTR.

Yer - but we ALL know about those WA Dynos - like to see it on a PROPER Bulgarian dyno LOL Nice curve Paulie - now I see why your 4th gear is rooted

Yer - but it ain't as flat as that sucker

No badges on my 'line at all 'cept GTR - everything else is irrelevant really :wassup:

Guys - get a trusted mate in Perth to pick up from SST and post it to you!

Paul - what a question, either it's with nitrous or he's fitted a multi cam V8! Rep - that low down torque will test the work done on your auto!

Sorry guys, as stated above, not easily able to arrange postage atm.

Wouldn't be acompanied by smoke comming from the back wheels and a tendancy for the rear end of the car to step out would it??? Sorry - couldn't resist that one. Check that it's not fan/AC belts slipping also.

Steve - you need my old PFC/HC/Boost Kit! Includes FREE oil and filter as decribed above when you purchase from SST!!

98 octane is close to $2 ozzie in Bulgaria. 92 octane for my Trabi only $1 - even less when diluted with sump oil, reject vodka (insert random liquid hydrocarbon here)

As you prolly know - BP Ultimate is only made in Kwinnana and distributed Australia wide (kinda sh1tza when it's cheaper in Sydney than Perth doesn't it). I suspect that it is also sold under another brand, but have never had this confirmed. For this reason alone, it should be the freshest fuel providing you buy from a popular station. Paul, that reminds me - make sure they drain my fuel and change the fuel filter before firing up the new donk- that crap's been sitting in my tank for 8 months now!