Gav

Don't get TOO hung up on the warranty bit - it only applies to the drivetrain. To be realistic, you can't expect Nissan to warrant something that YOU modify. They do cover all the other areas, however. I remember that when I had my S15 and the speedo stopped working, the Nissan service manager happily fixed it under warranty, even though it had a big mongrel terb, front mount, PFC and zaust. I actually think that I made a sale for Nissan as they had a customer there at the time who came back from a test drive of the demo 200SX and said that it wasn't as fast as he wanted/expected. I took him for a spin in mine and he signed up that day with a list of my mods scrawled onto the bottom of the "offer to purchase"! I reckon I should have got a kick-back from that one!

Steve I can only open it in low (small) resolution. Can you repost at higher resolution? What are are the mods? Cheers Gav

mg181 PM and offer sent

I saw an S14 in Perth that had a GTR diff fitted. The workshop claimed that it was a straight forward conversion. I picked up a spare complete rear GTR diff for $800. This seems a pretty typical price.

Hell expensive for what they are - gotta admit 'tho - mine's survived a hell of a lot of kerb kissing!

The RB26 in my R went bang (actually "clunk shudder-shudder clunk") before 100k. Service, abuse and just plain luck all come into it. Some basic checks like compression checks, oil in the IC piping etc should give you some indication.

Does anyone know for certain the difference between the N1 and the std blocks?

Could also consider a single high mount Garret with an external waste gate for similar money. Quite a few RB25s are getting nice fat torque curves with GT30s of late - can't see why the RB26 wouldn't be the same with maybe less lag? Personally, I prefer the sound of twin terbs on a GTR, but just thought that I'd bring up the option.

Congrats - nice choice (My 93 R is black too!) One of the good things about an R32 is the availability of parts and the compatability with the "little brother" GTS-T for trim and bits and pieces. Don't worry about the bubbled dash - try injecting superglue with a siringe into the buble after you have softened up the area with a hair drier. Use "quarter round" timber to push the buble back into the crease and hold it there for a few minutes. Good luck Gav

Nope - just many years old and been through lots of heat cycles (ambient to maybe 80C). Given these conditions, I think that they survive pretty well! After messing around with buying used coils, I went for the Splitfires to get rid of the missing once and for all. New coils from Nissan are actually more than the Splitfires.

Sad thing is that there is only a short period between when your folks give you grief and your wife gives you the same! Your dead for a long time - as long as what "pushes your buttons" doesn't get you there too much sooner - go for it!

Two options I can suggest: May be the exciter module (finned aluminium module at the back of the coil cover) These are the same as used on the RB20 motor. Borrow a known good one from a friend and see if this does the trick. Secondly, check the coil harness. The earthing spade/lug may be dirty and not making good contact. Also check the coil pack connectors for cracks. If nothing obvious, then again see if you can borrow a harness and swap this for a trial. Good luck

Sorry fella, but your really asking a "piece of string" question here. What sort of power are you chasing? This will dictate what size injectors you need. The terb choice and planned boost will be useful to know also.

The R34 (which is the same as the JDM S15 wheel btw) will fit on the R32.

Pete - I reckon' ya got the balance for a good street/track GTR just about spot on there mate! As previously stated by others, cracking a 10s quarter isn't outside the realms of possibility with some Nittos bolted and with the broad midrange you'd have a ball around a track as well. Living so close to Collie, I guess you've been around that track a few times? On the street, you must be loving handing it out to the all the "knuckle dragger" V8s in Bunno! Hope to catch up one day when I finally get back to Perth.

Peter congrats - nice result and confirms the dyno graph results quite well I think. Nice to see some good results using something other than the usual HKS 25/30s that everyone seems to be bolting on these days. Just out of interest, what made you go the Garrets? Price, advice or both?

DIY tuning is akin to DIY circumcision - possible to do but very likely to end in tears!

'cept they lie about their hp and use dodgy ECUs :wassup:

Yep - Boof hit the nail on the head. Get yourself a real cheap bunky that you can leave at the pub car park on a Friday night without worrying about getting damaged. Make sure it's good on fuel and only get third party insurance for it. If you do a lot of peak hour traffic time to/from work, so much the better if it's an auto. This will also let you do servicing/repairs/mods yourself as you won't be stranded for transport if you don't get it finished on time. The extra car may actually SAVE you money if you take into account fuel and servicing costs on the 'line.

Nice result Tristan - seems a few "truths" that we hear from the east are now being shelved into the "urban myth" category

My copy arrived today - in Bulgaria! Nice spread - well done guys

Ferk no!! Nice zaust manifold too!

Sean - your not still running std terbs are ya?

Good point Sean - your car just remined me that weight has a LOT to do with low ETs.

Hi 7heavn Unfortunately the best times for a GTR are achieved with a "brutal" launch (this makes me cringe every time I do this to my R). Your 1.7 60' time suggests that you are probably not bogging down on launch (your at 6 to 7k before side stepping the clutch, right?). You are right about the tuning - if you have adjustable cam gears and have dialed in for max hp (at the expense of mid range tourque), you may be dropping off below the max torque in between gear changes. A dyno graph showing power and torque vs revs would help. I was previously rattling off 12.5s with only 320 rwhp (std terbs) fairly consistently with 1.9 60' times. It sounds like more practice (and maybe a little cam timing adjustment) will see you crack 11s fairly soon. Remember to pre-load the drivetrain using the handbrake and take that 2nd to 3rd change E-A-S-Y. Good luck.