Gav

Nope - the reason that it appears on the HC menu is to do with the fact that the RB26 PFC (which does use input from an air temp. sensor) uses the same HC model as the RB25 PFC (which doesn't have such an input). The menus shown are largely dependent on the HC model, and not the PFC model.

Pfitzner website is here: http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/ very nice products at an appropriate price - you get what you pay for. Don't expect much change from $8k by the time you fit the box.

Paul - surely the words "no fear" and "run it in myself" seem at odds in the same sentence from you :Paranoid:

The single and MOST important investment to make at the same time - a dyno tune by someone that has experience with PFCs - even better if they have a Datalogit.

Thanks Paul - beginning to think that it's never gonna happen! Give Ant a kick in the pants (sounds like a nursery rhyme doesn't it) for me and forget about all the "prettying up" of the engine bay - he's got 4 weeks left to get it all back together and run in!

Nice to see some consistent results between 2 different dynos (225 @ Hyperdrive and 228 @ SST).

Considered an R32 GTR plus a runaround sh1tbox? For your budget, you could afford a nice GTR that's already had a rebuilt motor, brakes replaced etc plus you have a car that you can leave in the pub car park on a Friday night without stressing. Also enables you to do mods/maintenance without affecting your transport reliability. It's up to you but it works for me!

I always use multi-grips each side of the spring compressor "hook" to ensure it cant slip down the spring. I like SK's idea of wrapping the top parts in a sheet also.

On my R32 GTR, the positives of fitting definately outweighed the negatives. Positives: * much more predictable on the track, particularly when powering out of a corner and the back steps out slightly. Previously the HICAS would try and second guess what is happening, which is compounded by the ATTESSA splitting torque. * saved a significant amount of weight not just in the rear rack/solenoids, but in the engine bay as well. * picked up some worn components on the tie rods at the time. This really "tightened" up the feel of the rear end. * didn't have any probs with the light showing on the dash - mayby because this is the R32 hydraulic version? Negatives: * steering is slightly heavier at low speeds * turning circle definately increases without HICAS Cheers Gav

Hmmm.......may not be that simple as the late model auto boxes interface with the ECU. If you are going to import one from Japan, it may be better to get the conversion done there as they will have easy access to odd bits and pieces that may not be immediately noted as essential for the conversion. R34 also had a GT4 model in the NA version. May be able to use this box after beefing up and adding a trans cooler etc. Best of luck - I reckon it'd be a interesting conversion.

Actually saw one in person recently in the UK and had a chat to the owner. He is now getting offers back from Japan to purchase at MORE than he paid! I was a little disappointed when I saw the colour in person - it looks like a Toyota Camry colour!

I went for a custom design. It has increased capacity (8 L) similar to the Trust design, but doesn't have the low clearance problems.

I'm always a little sceptical of the GTR air intake sensor. If you take out the temp probe you will see that it doesn't extend very far into the airstream. I suspect that the temp of the manifold plays a big part of the reading (i.e. the air may be cooler than is shown).

John I read, heard, dreamt(??) that you balanced the brand new engine prior to running it? Was this not already done by OSG?

Mines been there longer than 6 months! Never mind, keeps Grandeko's motor company

Danny did all the work for getting my R customs cleared and complied under the old system. Nice guy and went "beyond the call of duty" when the pits messed me around for minor pedantic crap.

Steve - don't advertise your kits until AFTER you flogg off my throttle bodies! BTW - 6 GTR throttle bodies for sale - contact SST!

Steve best I can suggest is download a couple of Apexi (AVCR, terb timer, etc) install manuals that between them will prolly give you a third of the pin locations. Good luck Gav

PM sent

Hmmm....interesting thread. Often wondered what would happen in practice with different rolling diameters front to rear.

Will also suit R33 GTR. Free bump

Hmm - it's funny how most people don't blink when it is suggested to put on HKS (or other brand) extensions for ~$800, but cringe at replacing the manifolds at ~$1,600. I would thing the manifolds have more than double the benefit of the small extensions, particularly for a full engine rebuild with cams and head work. Do agree, however, that it is down the list of mods and cams/cam gears would probably offer better bang for buck and should be done first. As a matter of interest, the GT-RS terbs are touted on the HKS site as having a unique shroud design (for the GTR applications only) that eliminate the shuffling often experienced with high boost low mount twins. Any experience with this?

Ah - SK - you suprise me! Is that an extra 30kw PEAK power or USABLE power (as you keep emphasising)? :jk: HKS claims that the real advantage is less exhaust restriction and faster spool-up. Dunno how true this is but I picked up some for myself fairly cheaply and will be fitting them on the newly rebuilt motor shortly. These get hell hot, so I would recommend ceramic coating or thermal wrapping to keep under bonnet temps down.

Pauter http://www.pauter.com/4340_rods.htm do custom rods for $US1,100 per set of 6. These look the part and I have a set going into my RB26 shortly.

Have ya done those 2000 kays yet??? Get that dyno graph posted!