Gav

Xspeed seem to have good prices on HKS metal gaskets (not much more than Nengun/Greenline) - drop in and see them. Oh - may be an opportunity to drop off some throttle bodies to them

Mine are out of the engine atm - can ask my builder what the weight difference is if you like

Agree with Pete - interesting concept Would imagine that the RB30 crank may be the weak link at high revs?

About the same as R32-GTS. Should be able to land them cheaper now as there is no import duty applicable now (I believe??), just GST. Have a look at the titanium rods on the website - some serious and light hardware there!

My Pauter rods survived a serious engine failure that destroyed new Arias pistons and cracked the block. They're strong alright.

It's in the wind digger - just like my divorce when Mrs Gav finds out my crankshaft costs the same as a small country villa in Bulgaria!

All good mate - happy for ya

Nice work Simon Did you spend much dyno time playing with cam timing?

rwhp note also the terb shuffle during boost build-up. I have since gone to a bridged HKS manifold that should reduce this effect markedly. I will also be expecting 550 or better rwhp with more boost and timing.

I have them on my R32. Engine is being rebuilt at present, but the following dyno graph was at 18 psi and a fairly conservative timing map. I expect much bigger and better things to come :uh-huh:

Actually - the above is wrong. ATTESSA takes input from front and rear wheel speed. This in turn relates to rolling diameter. It is therefore possible to use these rims by having different profile tires to ensure equal rolling diameter front and rear. Personally I prefer to have the same width of rim and tyre to achieve this, but each to their own I suppose.

The reasoning behind the twin feed is that the std rail actually feeds from #6 (i.e back) end first and #1 is the last injector to see fuel. It is not uncommon for flow/pressure to drop in the rail by the time it gets to the front and starve the front cylinders of fuel. The fact that in a hard launch application there is also considerable G forces pushing backward further exacerbates the situation. The problem of detonation damage in the #1 cylinder is not an uncommon event for RBs at the limit of their fuel system. By feeding into both ends and exiting the centre, there is less likelyhood for the above to happen.

The latter - the rubber hose stretches over the larger afm with a little CRC or the like on the rubber.

If by chuffing you mean compressor shuffle, the GT-RS terbs on my motor shuffled like a bastard. Apparently they are renowned for this. Have a look at the dyno graph in my photos to see the shuffle in the boost pressure during spool up. Have got a bridged manifold that hopefully will help reduce this.

I picked up a used Trust pump for around the same price as an N1 and as GTS-t VSPEC says hopefully it is better than std. Didn't happen to have a squizz at it when it went on did ya Paul?

That's my car here in Bulgaria! Do a web search for "Trabant" and all will be revealed. ;-)

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Lucien An extremely good write up! Not a criticism, but a question of effort vs benefit: given that you didn't "power flush" the block (i.e just drain it), why go through all the hassle of removing the engine drain plug? Since distilled water is very cheap (or often free if you know someone in an industry that uses copious quantities of it such as a laboratory or manufacturing plant etc), I would think that multiple flushing with distilled water and draining (from the already flushed radiator) would essentially do the same thing. This is particularly so if you know what the engine block cooling water capacity is and just deduct this proportion from the dilution water that you would otherwise finally add to the system. As I said - not meant to knock a very informative and useful DYI thread, but just an idea to save a lot of extra hassles. Cheers Gav

Nengun and Greenline are both good and have bought heaps from each. Nengun is often cheapest. Greenline is usually the fastest with delivery. Both are trustworthy and reputable companies.

If you are referring to the rubber seals (mounts on the body and seals against the glass) I bought one piece new from Nissan for around the $250 mark. A rip off for what they are, but eventually I got so annoyed with the old ripped one that I just bit the bullet. If someone can find a cheaper source, please let me know as I need the other side as well!

Ya prolly getting confused between the cranks of the R32 and R33 GTRs. The R33 crank end extends further and engages into the oil pump socket better. This can be rectified on the R32s by adding an extension adaptor (fairly easy to machine up).

Congrats on the new machine - hope it sees more road time than my R Std tyre size is 225/50 R16 btw

You want to piss people off - try an Irish Auction. Start with a rediculously low price and then keep raising it every time someone says OK to the price! Won't make you popular but it will make you feel better.

Agree with both of you! I unfortunately did things in reverse - locked out the HICAS of my R32 GTR (which helped somewhat), but still had a vague wandering feeling and tramlining. It wasn't until I had a wheel alighnment and inspection from a reputable suspension shop that it was identified that quite a lot of my bushes and steering knuckles were worn. Man - when you replace these (10 year old plus) parts what a difference it makes! Especially for those getting a 15 yo import - follow gts4diehard 's example!

Sorry if it's been covered here already, but I didn't quite understand the following: Will this system (i.e adaptors and larger discs) still fit within the 16" wheel? Specifically thinking of factory R32 GTR wheels.