Gav

Nope - it's not another thread - these are the questions that I'm posing. The cost is minimal and can't see any downsides. That said, I've been around high boost Nissans for quite a few years now and blown head gaskets (on std blocks) are a lot less common than ring lands letting go.

One for; one against Comments from others?

Press the far right pedal down further? Sorry - couldn't resist that one! BTW - probably more appropriate to post questions on the Performance Thread and use the "Search" button - plenty of good info available!

Nice job fella. BTW - who did your catch can? I'll be needing one shortly.

OK Rebuild is about to start on the RB26. Most engine builders that I have spoken to recommend copper O-ringing of the block in combination with the standard Nissan head gasket. One shop recommends against this, however, and to simply use a metal head gasket. I expect to be running in the region of 1.5 to 2 bar of boost. Comments and experiences?

Ignition module is also another possibility. Spend an hour or two one afternoon with another Skyline owner and swap module and coil packs to see if this does the trick.

Hoping to "have my cake and eat it too" with regards to the top end power as well as mid range torque. Will be tuning primarily for mid range and to this end have focused on ensuring good exhaust flow via head porting, good terb manifolds and good exhaust (terb extensions, front pipes, "Jap spec" cat, good zaust) to help spoolup. Have not scrimped on internals to allow reliable high revs as well as high boost if and when required. The rest is now in the hands of Murphy, the engine builder and my tuner. :blah:

I'll have a pair of HKS cams (264IN/272EX 10.2mm lift) installed in a month or so. These'll be teamed up with a pair of 25/40s on a HKS low mount manifold. Will post the dyno chart after tuning.

Don't be in too much of a hurry - drive both cars and see which one suits your needs. GTR will cost LOTS more to run and maintain (parts, fuel and insurance) than a GTS-T. Acceleration wise, there isn't actually a lot of difference between stock or lightly modified examples of each. This is due to the weight diference. You quote "and I don't plan to use it as a drag, drift or race car" - if you buy a GTR I betcha you'll be looking for race tracks and drag strips within the fist month of owning it! Anyway - good luck with the purchase.

No - not sure about housing and trim sizes (there are a few previous posts that lists all the specs) , but one obvious difference is that they have dividers between the exhaust and wastegate valve. Yes - they keep the exhaust gasses separate from the wastegate gasses until they reach the front pipes. Whether this offers significant improvement over a simple large extension kit is open for debate.

Most logical cause is the the base map is set up for greater fuel delivery to take into account more mods than you have (ie is tuned rich). Get it on a dyno and tune according to the air/fuel ratio. Will probably find that you'll gain power as well as reduce fuel consumption.

TT - bad news buddy. You need a different model of HC. Went through this same saga myself. Nengun confirmed which one I needed based on the PFC serial number and supplied mine.

Learn to double declutch when changing down - will do wonders for smoothness not to mention syncro life!

Only ONE turbo, only TWO wheel drive, doesn't have SIX throttle bodies :devfu: Sorry - felt like a bit of stirring today. I actually thought long and hard a year or so ago about whether to by an R34GTT or R32 GTR. The GTT is still a great car with plenty of potential.

Boost control option will be ON by default for a new PFC. Won't do any harm except that the engine check light will stay on. I'm not sure if the engine check light will be able to flash in this mode, however, if you experience warnings (knock, max injectors, max AFM).

If you HAVE to drive it untuned, keep the boost down and make sure the knock warning settings are turned on (same menu as the boost control kit, AFM max warning etc). If the knock warning goes off - believe it! In my experience the minimum setting (60?) is a little high and my tuner has heard knock below this. BTW - Don't know what car you have. If it's a GTR, make sure you tune with the Datalogit as it gives a much better result (and heaps less dyno time!). Don't think it's available for RB25 yet, however. Anyway, good luck.

Yep - may have been rich, but the timing is quite advanced through the meat of the torque curve. I've damaged two engines by driving them on PFC base maps - no one's fault but my own. I can only speak for S15 and GTR units - but that's my experience and my advice. It's up to you vendetta if he wants to take it or not.

Crap Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures. Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar). Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

Lauren To Barbarellas or Strassman?

True - not cheap, although they're coming down in price now (around the $750 mark). I spent so much time messing around with mis-fires and being caught out with sh!tty coils on cruises, track days etc that I bit the bullet. Keep your original coils and sell the SPlitfires off separately when you sell your ride. Should still be able to get a half decent price for them used (I know I couldn't find any used ones!)

BTW - forget the workshop manual test of measuring resistance across the terminals to determine the shot coil. I've had plenty of bad coils "pass" this test. Substitute one at a time with a known good unit and go for a thrash (is full boost) to determine which one is playing up. If you have more than one coil failure - replace them all as they are all probably shot due to age, overheating etc.

GTR R32 C/F ONE Keen if you get the numbers

Push or pull type?

In my books, leaving a GTR standard is a little like pulling wings off a fly - cruel and pointless. As soon as you even remove the boost restrictor - most people just can't help themselves (then zaust, then pods, then boost controller.............). I fall into this catagory of course.

Having driven both - go the 25/30s. For really flash response consider the slightly smaller 25/10s as well. You'll still get plenty of top end (400 hp at the treads with a good after market ECU and tune) and a broad torque curve to boot. Don't forget the HKS actuators as well.