Samuel Leonard

he's my mate, lives in western suburbs SA. i've been trying to help him find one and not having much luck.

i saw the time. i'm desperate for a reply. i didn't say i'd buy them like an idiot. i said do you still have them. are you saying there is no chance he still has them?

went for a drive with nissan scantech running today and by manually advancing the ignition timing i was able to make my problem a lot better and by manually retarding it it made it a WHOLE lot worse. after doing that i closed my adjustments and just recorded the drive home. if anyone has scantech you can view these by opening the program and in the top left under the tab view go engine log and open this notepad file. i can't upload a .LOG file so i'll upload it as .txt and just change the extension to .log as you save it. scantech will open it then. running temp.txt

Do you still have these?

You got an ignition barrel? R32?

Lucky there wasn't a MINT R32 GT-R involved...

Got a clutch master cylinder? Leaking at all? Posted to sa, what's your price?

my best friends r32 gts-t got broken into last night (ASSSS HOLE!!!!) couldn't hot wire it as it has an alarm and immobiliser. ignition barrel is missing and sub and amp were stolen, along with an ipod cord (go figure LOL!) ignition wiring is all hanging down and my mate has been quoted $700 to have it fixed AFTER he sources and supplies them with the new ignition barrel. i think NOT! so, i'm after any help what so ever! ignition barrel? if you buy one from a wrecker (or where els would you suggest to buy one) can you match the barrel to his current key? and anything else you think would help would be amazing. i'm trying to make this easier for him because he's thinking it'll be easier to just sell as he's low on cash. he doesn't want to sell he's just overwhelmed by the cash and job. i'm a first year mechanic i could probably replace the barrel for him with a tutorial? (never done one NO idea what it entails) thanks SAU. you've always helped me out.

nope. not in a hard spot really at all. take the cover off that if your in your drivers seat covers from about your shins to your knees (6 screws from memory but don't get caught because one is on the side of the dash that faces the drivers door) and lay with your head at the pedals and feet hanging out the door. (move the seat back as far as it'll go and steerig wheel up as high as it goes) and you'll see the back of the clock with 1 plug in it and 2 screws. undo the screws, slide the whole thing out and undo the plug when you're sitting out in the driver seat (has a fair bit of slack) there are 4 dry solder joins under the clock screen on 30 ohm resistors and these are the common problem. takes about 15 minutes to get it out if you have no clue what you're doing but i strongly strongly suggest you take it to an electronics shop to get the clock screen removed and the the soldering done as the screen is unbelievably easy to break and then you are screwed. (about $350 to buy a new clock from nissan) seriously thinking about doing it my self though. got the clock out about 10 minutes ago and looking at it now. don't think i'll risk it though , i'll be good. if you live near flagstaff hill sa i'll help you get the clock out. take me about 20 minutes to get it out and have all the dash back in for driving till you want the clock back in.

I'm not even sure what a desoldering station is i've done a fair bit of soldering but never delicate stuff. Sound systems and stuff. So if I just took those photos you posted a few months back and explained that it's the solder on those 30 ohm resistors they'd know what I'm talking about and be able to do it? What if they broke it? Would I have to source a new one?

i have a pretty good imagination and i imagine something like a sensor dropping out in the heat and the ecu retards the timing or something wierd like that? i only assume more of an electrical fault because it goes away? seriously frustrating!

hi guys, have had this problem for a few months now and the only things that make it vary is the temperature. if it's warm and i put my climate control in full heat mode (hold down the hot button once the climate control is set to 32) it tends to get rid of it sometimes. the problem: it's really in the lower rpm to be honest (2000 or there abouts) the car really lacks power. it feels amazing before boost while it's cool but once it warms up it becomes a dog to drive. if i go full noise from 2000 rpm in 2nd it feels gutless, i hear boost (to me it sounds like a bit of a boost leak) and it takes a few seconds after hearing boost to feel anything and some days it has the dead spot then it hits you with power, other days it's just dead no matter what... it doesn't do it until i hear the viscous fan working hard. doesn't usually do it if the day is less that 25 degrees and it goes back to 100% power while it's cool. any ideas? what can i check? also, i would assume it's not a boost leak if it goes away when cold but it sort of feels and sounds like it?

How hard is it to get the clock out? And is there a tutorial on this? Would love to take my clock apart but not game until I can see it step by step... If you could make a quick one that would be awesome!

massively interested! i tried to talk to hicas a while back and it wouldn't find it? my old gtst had a second consult port in the boot hanging down under the parcel shelf? couldn't connect here either? seemed to be a useless port? but the gt-r doesn't have a port here and the port near the fuses won't talk to hicas? i have no hicas problems it just interests me. not sure what you mean by manually doing something with ff ff e4? can you explain this?

no idea what hear/feel pass side hump means lol but come to think of it, mine makes this sound out of gear too so it can't be drive train. surely it's a common problem then if 3 people have it within a week of posting so someone will have a fix... anyone? can't see anything under the car...

well i definitely don't get anywhere near this. not even sure if it'd be getting over 8. it's in bar so it's not easy to tell. but 14 psi would be near the 750mm of mercury on the standard vaacuum meter and it's still at 350. i'm fairly confident it made no difference at all...

please make an offer. you can pm me if you want. or text.

did this help you then? or still can't find the problem?

I bought an R32 GT-R recently (2nd of november) and this was the spoilerless boot lid that was on the car when i bought it. there is no evidence of a spoiler. i am very picky and i would be perfectly happy with this. i carefully took it off and placed it in the my room and no i've decided i don't want it. maybe it'll cover the clutch master cylinder it is in slightly better condition than the one i have on the car now but i wanted the standard look. feel free to come check it out in west beach SA just text 0431398657 please don't call during business hours. if you organise postage i am happy to drop it off locally. I can assist in fitting it on your car if needed or explain it to you. it's easy as piss. this is the sort of look you'll get from it

I bought an R32 GT-R recently (2nd of november) and this was the spoilerless boot lid that was on the car when i bought it. there is no evidence of a spoiler. i am very picky and i would be perfectly happy with this. i carefully took it off and placed it in my bedroom and i now know i don't want it. it is in slightly better condition than the one i have on the car now but i wanted the standard look. feel free to come check it out in west beach SA just text 0431398657. don't call during business hours. if you organise postage i am happy to drop it off locally. i can assist in taking the old boot lid off and fitting the new on or showing you how. it's easy. This is the look you'll get (no good shots from the rear sorry)

YES! EXACTLY! please tell me when you find it! almost sounds like abs but it makes this sound when i flip my 2wd switch and abs is on that circuit so it can't be that.

thankyou all for you input! i'll have a decent look soon! maybe tomorrow! i hate looking under my car at the moment due to all the leaks. it's 21 years old so i'm not surprised but i'm working my way out of debt and i'll do all it takes when i've finished paying off my loan. thanks again!

not that i am aware of. car's got a dyno sheet stating it puts down 180 kilowatts. i'm an apprentice mechanic and i've had a good look around the engine bay and can't see anything? does this restriction usually make a pretty big difference?

I just removed mine and literally noticed no difference? is it a tiny difference that you hardly notice? couldn't even see the vacuum meter change. i know it's not a great means of measuring boost but the maximum it ever gets is 350 mm of mercury (hg) i thought it would boost much harder? but still pretty much exactly the same? anything else i was supposed to do? what is the electrical wiring to the PCM?

more of a knock when i release the brakes slightly under firm braking. say firm is 60% as i release to 40% as i get closer to lights i hear a few loud knocks sometimes. anyone know what this could be? i fear the worst as something to do with ATTESA or the front drive shaft... but i'm hoping it's something common and an easy fix. i am a first year mechanic and am stumped but i have access to hoists for my car on saturdays so please help!