32vspec2gtr

I only just installed splitfire packs before i even did the ecm. Also i got a hks twin spark system installed as well at the same time. Wonder if thats whats giving the issue. I won't say who installed the vipec as i don't wanna slander anyone when i could be something out of there control.

Hey any of you guys got a vipec v88 installed on your gtrs? I just got one installed and i don't think its quite right. For starters, i made 1kw less power apparently then the factory computer. Now it doesn't idle correctly in my opinion (sometimes almost stalls and then jumps back up, other times just idles fine) Then when your going from vacum to boost, it kinda hesitates and jerks a bit then all of a sudden lauches away????? WTF is going on with this thing? any ideas Thanks guys and girls Matt

Hey anyone know if harrys is on tonight?

why don't you just flash the codes yourself? It is exactly the same as taking it to a mechanic with a consult only that they can see it in real time. But if the issue already exists then it would be stored in the ecm and flash out as a code. At least then you would have some idea of what is happening. Normally jerking and then going is a sign of the engine been far to lean. Some one with a manual would be able to tell you how to flash the codes and what each code means. Its not hard to do.

Had the same issue with my gtr, turned out the harness had a brake in it to the air flow meter. Can also be because the air flow meters are only soldered in the meter itself and the terminals break off over time with bumps etc If you got the standard computer, use the pin out to flash codes and see if there are any air flow meter related or others there. This is how I found mine. With an after market computer, plug in or use the hand reader if you can to check air flow meter voltage, it should always be between 0.5v to 4.5v inorder to be working properly. Get someone to check this while you drive to see if thats the problem. Hope this helps, cause i know how gay this is when your driving. I broke down on a mountain and took my brother 5hrs to get to me and a chick that I had only just started seeing lol and this was after a big night out and been tired and hung over. Lets just say she wasn't impressed haha Matt

How long has the fuel been in the tank? As fuel ages it loses its octane rating (knock resistance), so old fuel = knocking. When was the fuel filter last changed? If its creating too much restriction = less fuel pressure = less fuel in = more knocking/leaning out Also, check that your fuel pump is getting the full 12v supply as the standard wiring doesn't allow the bigger fuel pumps to get the full 12v due to the amount of power they use compared to standard. If it was a slight miss fire I think you should be able to feel it in the car or on the dyno as it maybe hesitant or pop through the exhaust. Even if its slight But gap your plugs, standard gtrs run 1.1mm gap but if you increase boost it tends to blow the spark out. So i run .8mm gap on mine, but check what other people are doing on gts Someone said before about the blow off valve and leaks, i don't think this would be an issue as if anything it would run rich and you maybe able hear the leak. Shouldn't detonate, even though it would be low on power because its rich not lean. What Fmic are you running? if its a cheap item, maybe its not cooling the air sufficently. Which also causes knocking. I don't think timing is going to be the issue of why you haven't increased power, as you still should be able to, to some extent. Most likely I think its going to be fuel system related. Anyway, just my 2c of ideas to check Hope this helps Matt

Judging by a et calculator your car should be good for a 10.63 at 126mph this is only an estimate calculator but so either more or less is possible. This was calculated at your car mass (3256 pounds or 1480kg) and power (400kw or 536hp at the wheels). We use this on our drag car and found it to be fairly close most of the time If you wanna (or anyone else for that matter) play around with this so you can see for yourself the site is http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php and you just need the weight of your car and hp. On this site you can also find the power the car has through the wieght and et or the mph and et. It is in american so you need pounds and horsepower to work it out. Hope this helps Cheers Matt

Looks good Jay and good to see whats gone into it so far. Good to see Tessa and Trent are looking after you well. By the way, didn't even know you and Tess were on here. This is Matt with the 32 gtr tess was talking to you about and how i commented on your fb photo lol Bit random Sould be good to see what the final power figure turns out to be. Matt D

Whats this out of mate? Also is it a piggy back system or what sort of ecu is it? the more details the better thanks cheers matt

Sounds good, let us know how they go and what they are like. Cheers matt

Sweet, but you shouldn't need a shop if you got some idea on wiring or how to use a multimeter and soldering iron/crimps. Pretty much the same as installing a head deck in your car, just gotta find the right power sources good luck mate

Hey mate, this would be because who ever has set the turbo timer up has wired both power wires to the ignition source. To fix it you need to find out which one is the power and which one is the ignition. The power one should be wired to a constant power source, eg power to your ignition barrel. And the ignition power should only be on when the ignition is switched. Would be simple to fix with a multimeter. Let me know if this helps or you want me to explain it better (I can't explain stuff too good lol) Matt

Hey mate, Yeah well Trent and Tessa at Murcury I have found to be awesome. Its probably a 30 to 40 min drive to them from yours down the inner city bypass. If you needed help getting there, let me know and i'm sure we could find a way to get it there. I know how ennoying it is to try and get there otherwise lol My gtr was picked up today by a tow truck which Trent organised for me and is getting an ecm fitted up and tuned by them plus a few other goodies. If you wanna know more, just message me mate Hope you find a shop that your happy with cheers matt

Ha ha ha ha, this is the best description i have ever heard. Not only is he taking the piss out of the thing hes trying to sell, but he puts so much enthousiasm (farks me how to spell it lol) and time into it. Top job lol actually really smart, how much publicity is he getting lol

If your after a good price, try nengun performance at http://www.nengun.com/ where i got mine from and cheap as. You might have to wait a couple of weeks but worth it for the price difference. If anyone else knows somewhere thats about the same price but no wait, please correct me Matt

Hey mate, I personally take my gtr to murcury motorsport on new market road. Found they are really helpful and have a fair bit of experience with hipo cars. Trent owns a 34 gtr that was putting out 935hp at all 4s and the crew has a number of fast cars as well. Paul (twoogle, owned the silver 32 gtr doing like 8s or something) personally recommended them to me over all the other shops. Hope this helps Matt D Email: [email protected] Mobile Number: 0402421437 Other: 0733523363 Website: http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au

Ha ha nice defence. He'll probably put it on the pay out scheme and pay it off over the next 10yrs at $1 a month

What a dickhead!!!!!! Obviously, he felt inadequate in certain areas and someones else has now payed the price. And he will have to live with this forever. Knowing that he has killed an innocent person for the sake of five seconds of fun. Why not just take it to a track or if you don't have the money, at least go somewhere where there is NO ONE AROUND. The fact is he is just someone who feels like he needs the approval of people and will do anything to do it. Well now he has the complete opposite. As for inthisglass, mate show some respect. The lady had done nothing wrong and was the innocent one. The dick who was driving was the one at fault and now she's lost her life because of it. How would you have liked it to have been you or worse, your mum, sister, wife, girlfriend, daughter, or someone close to you. Rest in peace

I don't know if this is the same for the r34 but when i have been looking for a vipec for mine, I'm going to be running a v88 for the options and the fact that i can replace all my old wires and issues i'm having, that there is infact a plug in ecu for the 32 gtrs nick named the v66. From what i have heard these are a very good ecu, as Paul and that have said. Apparently better than the fc's but hey thats just what i've heard. Mine should be going in next week (crosses fingers nothing else screws up and puts me back again lol) Hope this helps Matt

Ha ha yeah know what thats like. Gotta fork out for a v88 ecu now lol. Still worth it but in my opinion. I love your 33 as well i have the issue its in and was reading about it. Looks nice and sounds like it would poke along alright as well lol. Anyway keep it up mate and hopefully i will see you cruising around soon. Matt

Hey guys, my gtr had a similar issue that turned out to be a vac/boost line and faulty air flow meter giving me different things. Firstly i would be checking the vacum lines and seeing if they are split like someone else has said previously. THAT IS ALL LINES IN THE SYSTEM! what i mean by this is every single line that comes off the cold outlet side of the turbo all the way into the engine. If one of these are leaking it can be the cause. This will also make a hissing noise. Next i would be flashing codes out (easy to do just pin out the diag conectors as per the service manual) and checking that you don't have any wiring or sensor issues. Also clean the airflow meters with electrical cleaner as this can also give you a false reading due to contamination of the air filter oil used on pods. Then check the wastegate and the wastegate flap on the turbo as it can seize up. Also check that you don't have any boost leaks through your hoses that the main air flows through, etc as this can give you poor boost performance ect. As for how the wastegate works, it takes boost pressure in the intake manifold or outlet of the cold side of the turbo and this acts on the wastegate. No matter what the exhaust is doing it should not affect the boost other than restrict it due to a colapsed cat and so make less boost. So you will only have a more pronouced boost spike not more boost as previously stated. The internals of a wastegate are a spring and a diaphram. The spring holds the wastegate shut and the boost pushes on the diaphram to open the wastegate. If this diaphram is split or has a hole internally it can cause excessive boost and also make a hissing noise as the boost pressure pushes past. The blow off valve is the same sort of design only that the vacum created by the shut throttle body opens the valve and allows the air to escape. So the same goes for this diaphram. Chasing boost leaks etc is difficult when you don't have the equipment. I can do it at work on the trucks i work on but on the gtr is a harder thing to do. I recommend you take it to a dyno and do a power run and let them see whats happening. They found out what mine was doing and i got all the lines replaced for a couple of hours and all up cost me something like $400. Cheap when you consider a turbo is a lot more let alone a engine if it over boosts and leans out. Anyway hope this helps you guys out. Kinda hard to point you in the right direction with out hearing it in person. Matt

Hey mate, This build is still looking awesome!!!! Would love to see it in person when you get it up and running. Are you still going to be at the winters next month? Matt

For bedding an engine in have a look at what the top fuel guys do. They build the car, roll it out of the work area, put it on stands and then crank it till oil pressure is there, then start it and nail the engine about 3 times to full throttle (enough to lift both you, the rest of the crew and the car while trying to stop it from rolling on its side, truely awesome experience to do) then quickly check gears and stall it. then its shut down, oil drained and taken to the strip. As for what we do at work (diesel fitter) its run shit mono oil, throw the truck straight onto the dyno and run it at full noise, full load at different rpm and get it really hot. Then drop the oil and tell the customer to get a trailer loaded with as much wieght as possible and haul shit out of it. Change the oil at 10000km and filters and should be good to go. Hope this helps Matt

Never got there tonight. hopefully sometime in the next couple of weeks i'll be able to get out for a cruise!

Hey guys, whats the meet for? like is it dinner or something or just a meeting place? And is anyone invited? May come down in the gtr and see who's kicking about