nuffsaid

Hi all 1) Who here has an aftermarket boost gauge in their R34 GTT? 2) Is it electrical or mechanical? 3) I was just wondering how accurate the factory boost gauge is in comparison. Thanks

There are these white hex looking things on the assembly, turn those and your headlights will go up or down.

Damn! anything else that satisfies the above?

Are the RB74's dusty or noisy? and have a nice first bite to them? I currently have Formula Ferodos, are they are hella dusty!

I had the same problem when I first had the car but it only happened once in a blue moon. Hasn't happened for a long long time now, I think the problem may be solved (knock on wood). I do remember replacing a fuse here and there as I found some items in the fuse box were hard-wired instead of using a fuse.

Are our R33 and R34 skylines "lighter in the back end"? My pressures are at 36 all around, maybe that there the skitty back end comes from.

Oh misread and it says you plugged it into a launch diagnostic machine Sorry no idea what that machine does or what the numbers it produces means.

Perhaps the numbers were read wrong, because there shouldnt be a 5 or a 0

11 = Crankshaft position sensor signal circuit 54 = A/T communication circuit No such items for 5 and 0

Hi Is there a place where I can find genuine Nissan parts? I am currently looking for a brake master cylinder for a R34 GTT, any ideas where to look and what sort of prices? It would be good to find a resonably priced place in Sydney to get some genuine parts. Thanks

My pulsar and skyline do the same thing. I noticed with aftermarket suspension, the rear will bump and kick a bit on rough roads. I was informed that making it a little stiffer in the rear would get rid of this because the rear was under shocked. Dont know how true this is or how well it works. Have only just set the rears stiffer so will have to wait and see.

Hi Anyone know where I can pick up one of these for? And how much they will be roughly? Thanks

I'd say if your not having issues at the momment, leave it out. I have heard stories about constantly fluctuating water temps with low temp thermos. I'd much rather a consistent okay temperature, than surges between low and normal temps. RB30 has a good point. If you wanna have better cooling capacity, maybe a radiator upgrade would be a better alternative?

Very pricey for the S-tune HA's (Height Adjustable) approx $2800 The normal S-tune sets are much cheaper, about $800 cheaper for a GTR. With those kind of prices, maybe your better off buying other things?

As title states, am looking for a R34 GTT front and rear sway bar, and a rear strut bar. Also anything else that I am looking for in my signature. CHeers

Is this different to diff oil? If you are purely changing diff oil you'll need about 1.3L Dont know if this helps.

I had that exhaust, without the motor or controller though. To open it up, I just got underneath the car and turned the adjuster manually. So remove the wire off it, spray a crap load of WD, and try to move it by hand at the back of the exhaust.

Is it the Trust universal pillar or one specifically for the car? I dont think Trust make single pod pillars for specific cars, its just a universal one. If you have one made for the car I would expect it to fit perfectly.

I think they are pretty standard rates. I get anywhere from 11ish-13L driving round the suburbs which I guess counts as city driving. Occasional squirt here and there and maybe I trip on the M5 per tank. Avg is about 12L/100km My trip to central cost, I was getting 10.5L/100km. I noticed that my car doesnt seem to that much better when doing only highway miles. Oh and mods are pod + full exhaust, stock boost.

SOLD

The brand name jap kits will fit easily and nicely. They will probably use the existing piping so everything will look quite neat. The cheaper kits e.g. JustJap will take some mucking around to fit. and have different piping. I'd say the brand names flow better and are of better quality. They probably perform a little better too, but I dont know whether it warrants the price being doubled (or more). Personally, I'd go a proper brand name kit.

Yeah I should get rid of this 2 deg difference and make it 0.5. Although it drives straight at the momment with 2 deg difference which is odd.

I believe I have one as well. (mechanic said he put one in) And yes it is louder, I get this whirring kind of noise when revved up from idle to say 1500rpm. Idle is also a tiny bit louder. Quite annoying for me, but I'd say most people havent noticed and wont care. I am used to it now so doesnt matter.

Nismo dont make many short shifters, they make solid shifters which dont make the throw much shorter. They have some actual SHORT shifters but they are rare. Best off buying a C's Short Shifter, I trial fitted an el cheapo and it felt like crap, put the genuine C's on, solid short shifts! nice!

Ohh so it is castor that is causing this? Yeap adjustable castor whiteline bushes and tyres are 235/40/18, so a very similar (if not smaller) rolling diameter when compared to the stock wheels. In the alignment, I believe one side is around 8 degrees and the other 6 degrees castor. Cant remember which was for which side but from my descriptions, can anyone tell me? Is it 8 degrees left or right wheel? They left the castor different intentionally to so that the car would not steer left and to combat the natural left down slope of a road. SydneyKid thinks that the difference in castor is TOO much and recommends only a 0.5 degree difference between left and right. With my 2 degree difference it still drives fine and straight. What do you guys think?