The Mafia

this is a great thread.. SK has given me so many ideas, and great effort paul. You're a champ. Good luck with the tune

what was the leakdown test result if you got one? Its there oil visible at the back of the motor anywhere?

not really, if you want a cheap easy way, get a Front mount fitted, and powerfc, and a tune. Will cost about $2.4k all up will get you about 200rwkw and a lot more torque, as apposed to 150rwkw Your stock intercool will only handle 10psi, and its not muc different power to what you will have stock I've done all this...and I love my car

well, I was just thinking, as even easier way to drive the car around all day every day with this kind of setup, is simply run low boost (5psi or something) or - no boost at all. Car should be perfectly drivable this way.

ahhh I think I just worked it out based of your explainations if the stock afm is passing through x (normal) amount of air at 1 volt the ecu puts in y amount of fuel.. if the Q45 is passing z (more) amount of air through at 1 volt then the ecu still puts through y amount of fuel in the second equation - more air, same fuel = lean ouch, I better be careful. Maybe i could adjust the voltages on the q45 afm setting? Have you noticed when you select q45 on the pfc menu, and hit next again, it has options to change voltages etc.. THis is a little confusing. Hopefully I can get to a tuner asap after the modification

Time for me to ask a few questions instead of answering a few.. On the weekend, I am taking off my stock turbo and bolting on a Garrett GT30 with a VG30 ass end. Through all of this process, I am going to change the stock AFM to a Q45 afm. The ECU I am running is a power FC, and its fully tuned for the stock AFM at 210rwkw.. anyway.. If I plug the q45 in, and set the AFM menu in the powerfc to Q45, fair enough things MIGHT work.. but will it change any over all settings or maps etc? Will it lean the car out or make it run rich? of course, running rich would be a lot better.. The reason is because my fabricator friend and I are going to make everything up for the car (custom) and want to be able to drive the car 30kms to a tuner to do the full tune.. We won't be able to plug in the stock afm in temporarily because its much smaller to fit on the piping. hope I have made my question clear enough.. thanks in advance guys

I've run on 2 different dynos, and they both read the same. (DynoDynamics) I really hope I can get 250rwkw on 1 bar or less

nothing bigger will ever just "bolt up" bigger comp covers will hit the ex manifold, thus needing spacers to move the turbo away from the manifold. You can find stuff that bolts onto the factor dump... but the factory dump is shit... and would be even shittier with a bigger turbo. But, I had an aftermarket dump on my car to suit the factory turbo. When I got the bigger turbo, I got a VG30 ass end which kind of does "bolt straight up" But you also need oil and water lines etc.. as for the 15psi - 20psi... No offence, but from what I can see you haven't owned a skyline for long...Or know little about the RB25 Here are 2 reasons why you can't boost 15psi - 20psi on a skyline Reason 1: Boost cut. As soon as the factory ECU detects 12psi or more, bam, expect a 30rwkw to 60rwkw loss, due to rich and retard. The ecu does this to prevent reason 2. Reason 2: At about 16psi or more on an unopened motor, you are playing with fire. You will either blow your head gasket or bend your rods. Bending rods can be catastrophic (spend 5k rebuilding your motor) So if I were you, I'd either a) Get a bigger turbo, and all of the support systems (fuel pump, injectors, aftermarket ECU) and do it properly, and run it at 1 bar or less which is expensive or; b.) Change the gasket, put the old turo back on, and get a new ecu and have it tuned for 200rwkw. Expensive way, or cheap way. I have done both....lol

this is very interesting. I would love to go LPG... f**k the boot if its gonig to save me $50 a week. Anyone done a successful conversion?

lol sureley someone in this country needs a mirror...

this is scary. almost double the turbo size, and only get 30rwkw? I have a ex cam gear too if that makes any difference. At 0 degrees at he moment. Let just hope my tuner can do what is needed. As I said, I'm running 210rwkw at only 12psi on a stocko turbo.. You shouldn't need to run over 16psi on a turbo twice the size to get 250rwkw.. ?? I guess we can only see what my tuner comes up with.

the fuel pump and injectors will do nothing, as it will be a waste of money. Fuel pump if you are going to push more than 180rwkw out of it. The surge will be it boost cutting. You'll find that even though you are running 10psi of boost, it'll either have a restriction somewhere, or you'll be spiking and hitting the boost cut (which hits at 12psi) and doing to good old rich and retard.

if you can't weld intake pipes, you'll need a mate or a shop to fabricate something for you... doing this right now to my r33..

I haven't done it for a while on my powerfc but all you need to do is press "next" again while on the bar, and it will change to a graph. This applies to all readings the power fc provides.

I'm not being a smart ass here, but I'd say about $9k - $10k if your lucky

yeah we know, need spacers, oil and water lines, new intake, pretty much a lot of work. I got the VG30 rear so it will use my custom dump and flange. The my mate that is doing it, is a boiler maker \ fabricator. He's built a 300rwkw rb25 from the ground up, a GTiR motor with a 600hp turbo from the ground up, done shit loads of jobs on VLs, GT starlets, Falcons, Holdens etc. Bit of a back yarder, and I have never EVER seen work from trust, apexi, HKS or whatever brand that is better than his work. Guess I'm lucky to have a mate like that hey.. heh.. He's one of those quiet types, you know, the decent ones. I'm a little worried though. I wanted to get about 250rwkw with about 1 bar of boost and a good tune. The car runs really well (2% leakdown with 169psi accross all cyclinders) and the mods I have provided for the upgrade are - Garett GT30 550hp (VG30 rear end) Nismo 555cc Injectors Apexi Power FC Full exhaust, split custom dump, hi flo cat Full 4 inch intake and partitioned pod filter Q45 AFM (90mm) FMIC Unopened motor I'm one of those types, that thinks the less boost the better, as less boost equals less engine wear because its not being forced as hard. Also, running boost above 16psi on a stocko rb25 is dangerous... As Blown gaskets, and bent rods is just around the corner... I really don't want to have to open the motor up. if I did, I would bother upgrading, I'd just leave it at 210rwkw and sell the car

Bump... Come on guys, there is nothing wrong with it, and I need to get rid of it I paid $220 for it originally

Nissan Skyline R33 Driver Side Rear View Electric Mirror $130 Fully Working, no damage, just needs to be re sprayed. (has scratches in the paint) Glass is perfect. Had a little problem with malicious damage, and insurance was going to take a while to replace the parts (plus getting it all the way from Japan) so I got this one second hand to put on the car until then. (original mirror was completely destroyed, so I needed something!) anyway, these are $850 not painted from Nissan, so consider that when purchasing this one. And I am not going to rip you off, I'm a genuine skyline owner with heaps of posts here.

just a few questions - 1. What size Exhaust housing are you using? Its it a .63 or a .8* 2. What size compressor housing are you using? 3. And what kind of turbo is it? Garret or HKS? Is it 550 hp? Just wondering, as I am bolting one on this weekend. (garret GT30, with a .63 ass end)

also, above 1 bar equals a nice amount of hot air being rammed into your engine. I'd be keeping an eye on that knock sensor.. and and for your info, I am running 11psi, and got 210rwkw. Why so much more boost just to get a measly 8 rwkw, and risk blowing your motor \ clutch \ turbo ?

The power FC does so I'm pretty sure this one would have it stamped all over it

Don't ever say "its not the BOV" cause most of the time it is. Trial and error I say. Put the stocker back on (if it isn't already on) and try it. Next thing that a lot of people over look is the powersteering switch. THis little switch adjusts the revs on idle when you turn the steeringso the car doen't stall. Mine, will idle hunt sometimes and all I need to do is give the steering wheel a bit of a move and it stops. As sometimes it gets stuck. Make sure you let us know how you go.

ok, well, when I was in the same boat as you, I ran 11psi and the car ran fine. Maybe the extra boost helped the car lean out a little and run better. I had 0 knock, so I'd suggest gapping your plugs, and gonig for a drive and watching your knock levels. If it starts knocking, wind the bost back 1 psi slowly till it stops or is under 20% knock. Be very careful thought, if it knocks, BACK OFF the f**king throttle. Adjust the boost right away. But the best thing, get it to a tuner asap. I did, and now I am running 210rwkw, as opposed to 140rwkw with the standard pfc maps. Standard pfc maps at 13psi gave 160rwkw. Not bad I say.

Holy shit. Who ever told you this, should NEVER EVER EVER EVER be allowed to drive a turbo'd car. EVER.

yes. But is extremely usless on a RB25. (Which is what he asked in the first place) I wouldn't even put a 1.06ex housing on a RB25.. Oh, and if it was fitted it would probably make bost at around 6000rpm in second, and maybe 5000rpm in third. I have no idea how the car would react. I suggest you get rid of it and get a GT30 or something.