NoFigJamHere

Out of curiosity what ECU r you using? Mine is std

Mate im sure you've got the same issue i just had, my car has a nismo fpr and went down that incease-decrease pressure routine. And same as you the last things i touched before i had the problem were changed turbos and new cambelt so FM "shouldn't have been an issue. But soon as i tried some other AFMs my car instantly sounded,drove went better than ever! Even uses about 10% less fuel. Try it dude. As for Blue Fin aka Mafia with the "REAL LIFE" expierence i can assure you ive already forgotten more than your ever likely to learn... Just stating the REAL LIFE facts.

Its obvious that the more i reply the more you could potentially learn... And im worried what that could mean for the rest of the users in here. I mean imagine if someone who quotes things like "You say there is a decel cut, that doesnt really mean that much because when the foot is back on the throttle or the ecu is returning fuel to the engine after decel cut to stabilise the idle the ecu still does not have a clue how much air it is mixing fuel with...why? Because it was dumped out of an airleak aka BOV" actually knew something about engines/ecu's. We'd all be in for it then. OK here goes nuffin...by yours truly the "RETARD" . If your foot is back on the throttle there WONT be any decel fuel cut.....pretty obvious id have thought. And get this the BOV will be closed and by some kind of miracle that airleak you invented isnt there anymore....So please explain why the ecu wont know how much FUEL to mix with the AIR (just incase you werent aware the ecu controls the fuel not the air )and you do realise that the dumped air you value so dearly is already yesterdays news for what the ecu is doing!!! And i do appoligise for failing to mention that not only do you own a LAPTOP and various cables you also own a WIDEBAND im sure that is a critical aspect when refering to you tuning abilities... I apoligise to the OP for going off topic but i see so much miss information that gets thrown around in here i thought id have an opinion. Nothing worse than doing something you dont need to do because someone got their abilities and ambitions mixed up for a few minutes.

Oh n btw ive run an atmo bov on my car since 1999!!! I still have the same car with wait for it...... the same BOV.. Never had the cam covers off since ive had it, did the cambelt and turbo's afew months back and going strong... The MAIN reason manufacturers run a plumb back system is NOISE and emissions/pollution...Not because theyre adding extra fuel for the extra air with the injectors that are actually no active.... Good luck, it will be something odd that time n patience will see you fix it (maybe some bad advice thrown in to)

Mr Mafia you seem adament that an atmo BOV on a GTR will 100%, without doubt, put ya house on it cause a rich condition on decel because you are so Knowledgable and a specialist "tuner" but do even know that a GTR shuts the injectors OFF on decel? So your entire thesis/theory on OEM GTR BOVs is how does one say ..... Horse shit!!!!! Hmmmmmm....... And as for SARD fpr's the only times ive ever seen them give trouble is when 1 has been fitted incorrectly or was 1 of the chinese copies that have diaphram issues.... What is your background? ie: where did you learn to tune? Do you have a workshop or do you work as a tuner for a shop? Now to the orig poster i had this excact same issue with my R33 GTR and it turned out to be 1 of the AFMs was shagged. Replaced them both and problem went away. If you can borrow a pair of known good AFMs to try do it asap and save your hair. PS make sure you have the fuel lines going into the correct ports of the fpr, they cannot go either way. Erratic fuel pressure is a major cause of concern imo. Cheers. N if i was you id just ignore Mafia seems like he got a laptop for xmas and now with a few cables he's a "tuner" ...I dont know why he gets so jacked up over something so trivial but im guessing it was because he knew something that nobody else did!!!!

*kinda run

Mate you didn't put petrol in it just prior to the problem? I had a similar thing about 4yrs ago n it ended up that the fuel i put in the night before from a servo that "apparently" didn't sell much v'power (shell servo obviously) let their under ground tanks run so low i got so much rust with my v'power i needed to replace all injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, remove the Farking tank to flush it, only reason i didnt burn the servo to the ground is the owner paid me $1950 for repairs...he insisted i provided legit tax invoice and information of the w'shop that did the repairs so he could call and verify. Which was easy coz i had a workshop hope yours aint same issue hey... I'd suggest you pull plugs out just to determine if its getting fuel, and if theyre fouled up you more than likely have a vacuum leak sumwere thats causing it to have the excess fuel pressure. Does billow black smoke or smell fuely when it does inda run?

Those figures should actually be decided on by the engine builder. The info they supply (Tomei etc) are for a given lobe centre figure. That why i laugh everytime i read some-one quoting cam sprocket degree adjustsments as cam settings. . Unless you know where the cams are set ie: lobe centres before you start playing with them your just guessing and hoping for the best... Good to hear your getting close to start up Bobby

Just looked at your pics of filter paper mate and it looks like your fingers have more dirt than the filter for anyone who's interested when you first start a rebuit engine a few trouble signs are unusually high or low oil pressure and if you have higher than normal oil temp this is usually as sign of bearing trouble. Of course any weird noises means stop! But you did the right thing by getting oil analized. for what you had done ie: sump,head etc you often get those little bits in the filter you missed on the wash. Just look at any piston skirts (below the rings) and see the verticle lines and you'll see how much shit gets left behind after a rebuild.

Correct there mate. Thats why any major race organization uses an engine dyno.

Std turbo's, i imported this car myself in 1998, its a 1997 R33 V-spec had 2800kms, even had that new car smell. And still have it 1.4b (20psi), but day to day was never above 1.2b (17)

I can just imagine all the Guru tuners in here Googling away before they make any comments.... very valid topic in my opinion

You actually have to push lever down to pump the pressure up to desired setting. Knew i'd find it you rekon i could sell it in here?

Thats what ive had since 1998.... The mods are written on left edge. Except a twin plate clutch

What Luke is describing is mechanism Veilside developed once they found out No could make an electronic device like the HKS Split Torque controller for R34 GTRs when they first came out. It looks very similar to a Handbrake assy, problem was you had to totally remove the centre console to fit it! The Veilside item was full alloy (quite sexy) and had a pressure gauge so could actually see and record what the pressure you were using to determine if the car needed more or less split. I even actually have a Brand New never used Veilside assy i'll take a pic and post in here later 2nite so OP can look see. Wont mention what it cost but it was bort for a customer i had in Singapore who "had to have it" until when it arrived i explained the centre console would have to come out! Only realised ive still got it upstairs (workshop) when i read Lukes post!! Thanks mate

I admire your enthusiasm!!!! A GTR is actually 2WD until it hits a preset G figure or different wheel speeds front to rear... Then depending on the amount of Gs or difference in front to rear wheels speeds, a computer then controls how much hydraulic pressure gets applied to the rod at the back of your transfer case that activates a fork etc which in turns applies pressure to clamp the plates in the centre diff. It can only "feed" a maximum of 50% to the front wheels and is constantly variable. If can get a V-Spec set-up its actually 10 times faster in response times... ie: a non v-spec always spins rear wheels abit before engaging. Hope this helps mate.

Bobby let me first congratulate you on what you are doing, truth be said we'd all probably do the same thing if we could! Initially i was surprised Mr Skola was so willing to share in such detail what he is doing for you but it quickly dawned on me that he'd probably just laugh at the thought of anyone trying to copy that manifold design. Can you please do me a favour next time you speak to John? Can you ask him if remembers a time long long time ago (i'd say 1987) when he came down to a partiular Victorian based ATCC race team and made/modified an Intake manifold for a 5.0lt Holden engine? To jog his memory ask him if he was locked in a room within this shop (to perform his magic) and what happened when during the night he needed to have crap? He'll remember i'd rekon ... Tell im i was the 17 year old apprentice engine builder under Arch. M who had to "take care" of the aftermath!! With results im not willing to share on here but if John actually remembers you'll probably need a ventilator to catchh your breathe you'll be laughing so hard.... .... I'll have to admit i would never have read all this story if not for reading John was involved.. Even thou im by no means a friend or had any other contact with him, i like many others within that industry knew and learnt who he was and what he could do. I have been basically building and tuning shit since then and I am willing to share any knowledge or actual expierence regarding the RB26 with you and John that might be useful to your mission. Not saying i know everything about them but ive done quite a few engines and regarding what your doing with the squish i have some first hand knowledge John may (or may not) find useful. I built a test RB26 for my own R32 GTR (as i dont and would never use a customers job to do this like 95% of the "performance shops" unless i was asked to) to test certain boundaries. I ran 12.2:1 comp with 87.5mm pistons running shell or mobil 98 octane pump fuel with 20% toluene. And had awesome results. I ran the engine for 5000kms and pulled it down to look see ;-) btw it had GT2876R twins on custom manifolds etc running max 20 psi.Made 510hp at all 4 on 17psi. It also ran an M800. If John is interested or needs any info i may have that he feels might help in your project let me know and il PM u my mobile no probs. Thats purely if he needs to know what some of the pitfalls RB's can throw at you. I may have missed it but what block are you using? i'll be amazed if you get an N1 block to cop 34psi and 10:1 for very long, but saying that John may have a solution that he could let out the bag ... Theres also quite a few miss informed quotes by a few that as much as id like to reply to its a thread about one guys vision and being prepared to not just talk about it but actually do it. Love it! Again impressed with what your doing mate and really hope it comes together.. As for the doubters,Knocker's im sure you've heard it all before..... Jealous is my guess... Its coz u can Cheers n im keen to see you cut some 4WD circles

Mate does it have the stud in the block that the spring rests on to put tension on the spring? If yes then your probably just not locating the straight part of the spring correctly. A belt thats too tight causes a few problems but most noticeable (what i see on engines that have been built by others that ran belt tight) is excessive wear on the 2 very front cam bearing tunnels, the one which holds the seals, its always on the inner side as the belt is trying to pull the cams towards each other. Belts also tend to go shiny when too tight. I usually run about 4 deg play. ie: wind the engine over by hand (breaker bar) until you pass a compression stroke (doesnt matter which cylinder) but you'll feel belt looses drag. rock the crank back n forward n you should have about 4 deg play...Hope that doesnt confuse you too much but its not that difficult. Just take your time ;-)

To abr33: if your saying youve only got 5-6 thou gap on the inside how do u get 10,15 or 20 thou feelers between the gap? a little too much is better than slightly not enuff...

To V8tzr: I definately dont reommend matching the head to the head gasket, but if u want to build yourself a better engine, after the block has been bored/honed or is in ready to assemble stage bolt the ead on WITHOUT a head gasket and install all bolts (if using studs make sure theyre all installed and use 6 nuts with washers on front 2 rear2 and centre 2 studs) only needs to be firmly tightened DONT torque to specs!, Also make sure both DOWELS are in the block. get a long scribe thats very pointed and sharp and mark the parts of the head that over-hang, dont worry abt the flat squish pads but more on the outer most diameter areas. The bigger the bore is from STD the more this area becomes an issue. Like ive mentioned if done correctly you WILL be able to make more power than if u dont do it. Cheers

Mate clutches really can be a headache even for the best of workshops if they dont really understand the mechanics of it all. Putting oil/lube or anything else for that matter on the spline is probably the worst thing u can do, just look at were the clutch plates sit!!! On the spline!! So soon as u start ur engine centrifigul force will make whatever you've put there go straight up into plates etc. As Joey suggested you only need lube (i prefer a tiny amount of Anti-sieze) on the bush inside the flywheel. Have the guys/shop made sure your pedal has play/travel and is not pre-engaged? Is the clutch assy pull or push? Does the car shudder when you take off? If it does theyve bent the plates on install (another common cock up). It shouldnt be hard to sort out and my advice is if the shop who fitted it cant figure it out get a refund... Who's clutch is it can i ask? If that info is against site rules please dont state. Cheers

Mate its actually called a "Heat exchanger" its function is to get the oil and water temps as close to one another as possible. The Nismo oil cooler kit actually gets rid of the part altogether,but it also has a thermostat that by passes the oil cooler until oil gets hot enuff.. if you run both an oil cooletr and H-E sometimes the car runs too cold or takes forever to warm up. Most modern race cars (circuit) run H-E not to runn cooler but to run even water/oil temps. Dont know if that helps with your decision but if ur running an oil cooler and wont be doing much track work just take notice of ur oil n water temps and then decide whats best. ideally u want oil and water around 80-90deg.

Just curious why you think thats a bad idea about block/head matching?

To the original poster: What i consider equally important as the gap is that you make sure the end gaps are square! I have never seen a hand filed gapped ring that sits perfect in the bore.. And as for issues with excessive leak down/blow-by refer to first statement.. Ive seen engines built by "so called guru's" that had .020" on inner edge and .030" on block touching edge... If u can beg/steal or borrow a proper ring filer. And another thing when the ring is in the bore it MUST be perfectly square. Best thing to use is any flat top or center dished piston you can fit down ur bore with an old top or 2nd ring in the oil control groove. Trust me this is the only way you'll get ring square. Hope this helps and good bud.

BTW, they look like they have a small base circle, maybe 29,30mm so you'll need special buckets or really thick shims. Cheers n good luck