Briggs

bump

call me ignorant, but is the rear diff the "HICAS"??? i need a new one.or is it a seperate steering thing?

what about 28k as is? it just seems crazt given the car has more than that in parts alone. i get that it all depreciates but surely not that much???

bump - am i asking too much? or is just a really slow market? haven't been getting much in the way of real offers, just clowns and dreamers.

bump - just been serviced and dyno tuned, has new spitfire coilpacks

hey guys, have sold the bike so the car doesn't need to sell quite so badly. thanks for the offers though. It is still for sale but the price is back to 30,000 without RWC or 32,500 with. in either case it still comes with 11 months rego. cheers, Paul still open to trade offers - cars or bikes

holiday bump, any serious offers considered, need it gone!

potentially, give me a few days to sus out what it's worth (any help guys?), postage, etc. then i'll send you a message.

although i appreciate the trade offers, i'm really after an 06 wrx or similar plus 5-10k my way.

Hi guys,, an unfortunate turn of events means i will not have work as of jan (if you know of any teaching positions in the northern suburbs please let me know!). this has the carry on effect that if i dont sell the car or bike i will lose the house. so untill the bike sells, the car is a meagre $27500, this does not include a roadworthy as it needs a few standard parts i dont have, RWC can be negotiated for a few extra reddies. the car has over $30k in aftermarket parts/work alone and is running a basically new drive system. in case anyone is interested, the bike (as seen in avatar) is going for $5K.until the car sells. would potentially look at a trade plus cash my way - will be after a daily driver thats pretty much standard. just realised location wasn't there, the car is located in Whittlesea, VIC - if any of the mods could ad the whole [VIC] thing to the topic title i'd appreciate it.

Hey guys, unfortunately the time has come to sell my gtr, it will be sorely missed. i bought it a couple of years ago, been using it as a daily driver and have loved every minute of it, here are the details: 1995 R33 GTR V-Spec VIN - 6U900BCNR33002582 ENG - RB26050537A Km's - 102,500 comes with Reg and RWC Price - I'm after $35,000 or an 06 wrx or similar plus cash (need at least 14k) Contact - [email protected], PM, or 0408 302 517 Gearbox - New 4800 pound "Full Monty" jim berry clutch - 1st 2nd and 3rd gears are cut and cryo genically frozen for added strength Engine/running gear (just been rebuilt by Protek in preston, still running the motor in - all items listed as new are less than 500km's old) - Apexi power fc with hand controller - Blitz boost controller - HKS exhaust from turbo back - high flow cat - New Twin HKS GT SS turbos - JJR cam gears - new oil and water pump - new timing belt - all 14 engine hoses replaced with JJR silicone kit - 54mm aluminium race radiator (standard radiator is 18mm) - HKS step 1 cams - twin apexi power intake - New CT Forged pistons (86.5mm) - New Eagle Forged Con Rods - New RacePace Engine Bearings all round - New Tomei Metal Head Gasket - Blitz power meter Chassis - 6 point roll cage which can be easily taken out - Drift racing harness for both driver and passenger, - Tein adjustable front suspension and Nismo rear suspension Body/Wheels - Project mu pads front and rear - 17 x 10 gram light weight wheels - carbon fibre aero bonnet Interior - Momo steering wheel - Bride racing seat - Pioneer Head unit - Kenwood 6" Splits - Pioneer 2-way rear

sold pending payment

hi guys, i've recently had the gtr cause me some heartache so i have up for sale what i'm told is a HKS GT-SS turbo. the numbers match and it had a HKS actuator on it (now on my new turbos), but the turbo housing says garret, however i'm told their the same anyway. so long story short the gtr has cost me the better part of $11k within 200kms of use and i'd like to recoup some funds. the turbo has only been running 15 psi and has always been warmed up and down with every excursion, it was in the car when i bought it but including my time and the previous owners has covered about 6,000k. i trust the guy i bought it off as i'm still in contact with him and he always err's on the side of caution. the reason for sale is that it's partner at the other end of the block ate a chunk of piston and now has a pretty major shake in the shaft play. i had them both inspected and there are absolutely no dramas with this one according to Protech in thornbury. if you're interested in the other it has some slight scraping of the housing and needs new bearings and seals. i'm after $750 for this one or $1000 for the pair, that being said make any offer you feel is reasonable as i need the cash. i'm located in whittlesea, north of melbourne, Cheers, Paul [email protected] 0408302517

thanks guys, as i'll be using it all the time, i might just stick with about 300kw (i'm asuming you meant at the rears, not all 4???), fast enough for now. in terms of strengthening the motor for more power, if i was to spend say 5k, ignoring that i'd need bigger turbos, would that be enough for say 450kw? or would i need bigger injectors, fuel reg, pump, etc, etc, and the list goes on? am considering selling the bike if there are significant gains to be had. thanks for the feedback guys, lots of help Briggs

hey guys, after a new clutch, followed closely by new turbo's, am now looking to get some reliable power out of the car. it was apparently running 15 psi and getting 310rwkw with some pretty basic upgrades (i never saw the dyno sheet so have no proof here, could just be talk). Upgrades: JJR cam gears HKS GT-SS turbos HKS Exhaust from turbo back HKS step 1 cams Hi-Flow Cat Apexi power fc Twin Apexi power intake with k&n filters Blitz Boost controller 54mm aluminium radiator Gearbox gears all cut and cryo strengthened I have fitted a jim berry full monty clutch that he asures me will easily handle the power, and replaced the turbo's with their garret counterparts (the -9's), i will be using the HKS actuators from the stuffed ones. also on the way are some 600cc injectors and a pair of z32 AFM's. so my question is, how much boost can i run without causing significant damage to the engine or running gear? what sort of power figures should i expect? cheers in advance guys, Briggs

am very interested in these, was just wondering if anyone could tell me how they would fare on stock motor internals, have upgraded intercooler, powerfc, pipes, etc. i was running hks gt-ss before one shit itself but they were great (315rwkw, good response), are these similar?

hi guys, am pretty new to forced induction motors but will be attempting to fix this issue myself, any help would be appreciated. short story: just got a new clutch after frying the last one, 40k later i lose all top end power, as though the turbos weren't there. doing a head check i notice that when the revs are up it's blowing a lot of what at a glance is white smoke (pretty sure it's smoke and not water vapour), pulled over straight away and shut it down. many hours later... trailered it home, had to start it to get it up onto the trailer, no smoke until revs go up again, but only a little this time (rev to 2.5k). any clues??? i was thinking turbo seals? the turbos are hks gt-ss if it helps, running 15 psi. car is making roughly 310rwkw. car is now home and i have begun removing everything but hit a snag. could someone give me some very specfic advise on removing the water pipes and lambda sensors, and also any oild lines. i am doing this in my driveway (no choice) so would much rather not getting oil everywhere. here's a pic of where i'm at right now.

you cant have passengers full stop. they will often allow first timers to take an experienced drive around during the familiarisation session but from my experience passengers are a no go. also, is the cage welded or bolted in? and do you have any times from some tracks as a guide to it's speed (on race or road rubber)?

i've used an ebay fairing kit on a bike before, took some modification and was a prick to fit but looks fine. i agree with alr33x in regards to engine components, but i'm more about performance than looks and wasn't willing to spend 3-4k on appearances when i could get it 90% of the way there for 500 bucks. that extra money has now gone into getting an extra 20hp, to me it's a no brainer, go for it.

hey guys, havn't got my pride and joy yet but should do in a couple of weeks and will no doubt be joining you in our lovely late night get togethers with the fuzz. as to what they can do, they certainly can go through your car based on suspision, but that suspision must be validated; eg. you were stopped talking to someone on the street and exchanged goods, you were swerving all over the place or driving erratically, you have a history of drug or alcohol abuse in relation to you driving, etc, etc. they CANNOT simply say that they are checking on a suspision without something to base that on, if they do so without your permission (make it clear they don't have it) anything they find is inadmissable in court. they are also required to provide you with their badge number, rank and name if asked so make sure you get that and make a complaint, they'll be in the shit if they've not followed protocol, maybe next time they'll think twice before randomly giving us the shits because they have a job about as interesting weet bix.

bump, any serious offers considered guys. comes with RWC and reg till sept 2010. also has an HID setup on the left side.

having been on track on 2 stroke road bikes i can tell you changing gears is pretty much the same no matter what your in/on. you want to shift from first into second only when doing so will result in more acceleration, for 99% of vehicles this means changing at redline. with actual 2 stroke machines with proper powerband, changing early can result in having almost no power as they often only make any real power in the top 20% of their rev range. as to a good launch, as much as it may kill your clutch, to do a perfect launch on the bike i would simply give it full throttle at take off and slip the clutch out keeping the revs at around 12k (where the bike its max power). not 100% on doing this in a car but definitely the way to go on the bike.

hey guys, have been riding this as my daily driver but now with the skyline coming along i'm wanting to get something a bit more corner/track focused (would consider swap/trade with post 05 600's or 675). I bought the bike as a show build half finished. didn't have any lights, fairings, etc. just a frame, engine and wheels. I built it up with all new quality parts including: new headlight and mount new fairings new screen custom paint on tank stomp grips pazzo levers braided lines quality led indicators tinted screen new stator iridium plugs new oil/filter, etc gp look alike pipe (will try take a pic and send tomorrow) kerker exhaust I also had the bike checked over by evolution yamaha in epping to make sure there was nothing wrong with it, this included checking the motor and having the forks resealed and set up for my weight (100kg). the bike looks as new and rides brilliantly. I'm after a 600 as I had been riding a 2 stroke rgv250 for the last 5 years before this and miss the pure experience of cornering hard, the r1 does as well as any other litre bike but I find they all seem to carry a bit more weight into the corner and make it a little harder to get out cleanly. that being said, in a straight line it's a real thrill, I had the front lift on me in first, second and third yesterday, couldn't help but smile. so that's the good, there are only a couple of things worth mentioning in terms of bad - the forks have a slight leak in one of the legs as a result of living on a dirt road, dust gets onto the legs and if you don't clean them regularly then this will happen, something I was unaware of until recently, if necessary I can have this fixed before any transaction. - it has done 58650 kms, the owner before me used it as his daily transport and so have I, I would cover about 600 kms a week on this getting to and from work. the real problems with high kilometer bikes is that they get thrashed after sitting around without proper warm up and over time this kills them, that is not the case here, the bike has been used responsibly and routinely checked. I have changed the filter and oil every 2 thousand kms which comes around pretty often, and have had no drama's. asking $9000 ono regards, Paul Whittlesea, VIC 0408 302 517 please email or call me with any questions, [email protected]

hey guys, had a couple of small setbacks in buying a car. basically it can't get a roadworthy because the exhaust sits too low (however has adjustable suspension), has a full cage and a carbon bonnet. the guy i'm buying off can get around it... that being said i now want a thorough inspection done on a highly modified r33 gtr by someone who will know what they're looking at. somewhere near the ringwood area would be good, someone who will drive out to inspect it would be better as the current owners pretty busy. cheers guys, Paul

my wife has a 2008 mazda 3, goes well enough, easy to drive, very comfortable (i'm 6"1 and fit in the back), and if you get the hatch you can carry heaps of stuff too. won car of the year a few times also if i'm not mistaken. little things like traction control, cruise, climate, electric seats, console controls on the wheel, just make it a bit nicer than the others. we went through a few in 09 with a similar budget. basically cant go past the mazda 3, lancer, or corolla for value for money. the honda euro is a decent car if you have the money too.