R3N3

RB25det box it is then.

well currently my car is an auto. another question id i put the 20det box in, then blow that up how easy is it to go to the25det box? i.e. do i need to get a new driveshaft etc?

just realised i put this in the wrong section, sorry guys

your fuel consumption could also be 02 sensor related, i just recently changed mine, and i get round 400-450km out of a tank and thats driving in city traffic in a rb25det. also be careful with the waste spark alternative, as they can be hit and miss whether they actually work.

Hi, i was wanting to know how much the RB20DET box can handle? i now it would be best to get the RB25det box, but at a third of the price its hard not to consider the RB20det box. my car is a relatively stock (for now) R33, my goal is one day to have round the 250-280rwkw mark, with track days etc in mind. will it be fine with just a better clutch or what? Cheers

cheers for the help, ill give it a crack tomorrow and see how i get on. Cheers for the help

so just to make sure, the lines that go to the plenum, i need to block these off. and the hard lines, dont block these off. why are there 2 hard lines for anyway? cheers

i think it was put there mainly for emissions. i dont believe there are gains for removing it, its just bloody ugly lol

looks like you have some hard lines in that pic? how far back did you remove the stuff? the lines from the plenum look easy, it was the other 2 i have no idea about? cheers

I would like to know how to remove the carbon canister (with pics if possible). i have done a search, but found out its a legal requirement for these to be installed in Aus, which im guessing is the reason for lack of information on this topic. I Live in NZ and our laws are very relaxed compared to yours, so we arent required by law to have one. Cheers

i bought my sensor from kudos (great service). once installed, this thing made a HUGE difference. i just recently did a 3hr drive (on the highway) and i averaged 11L per 100 ks (using consult). last time i did this drive it was well over 20L per 100Ks. even city traffic driving im averaging 13L per 100ks. so it has already payed itself off in fuel

^^^^as above, might pay to try search first, as this has been covered several times. although i must admit, some of the threads dont give you definite answers. This thread i thought was very clear.

hope all you guys and gals keep dry! its been all over the news here in NZ keep safe!

Do the R33's have a separate computer for the Auto transmission? if so where abouts is it located? Cheers

i presume your talking about the AAC valve? if you are its located on the back of the plenum, there are two plugs going to it, i think 1 of them is purple. have a go at cleaning it first, as they a prone to getting filthy. then see how your getting on. heres a diy thread which helped me: Diy AAC valve cleaning

Hi mate, are you still doing these fittings? if so how much for a pair shipped to NZ. what size hose and fittings do yo use on these? cheers

hi mate, i was looking at doing the same thing as you. i emailed MV Automatics, as they are highly recommended on here. and i think it was around $400 with $100 postage to NZ (all in AUD). although it would be a good idea to flick them an email to confirm prices. i have decided that going manual conversion is a better idea though. because by the time you do the exchange rate math and add labor, your looking close to 1000nzd. i have seen 25det manual conversions on trademe for round the 1700 mark. but if you do go the shift kit, i dont believe you need a new computer. where abouts in NZ u from?

i wouldnt run 22 offset on the back, im running 15 offset with std guards and that looks pretty sweet with the 10' rim. i think the 10" rim may be too wide at the front with 15 offset. im running a 9" rim on the front with the same offset and thats as wide as i would go, so maybe the 22 offset for the front? check out photos my car (this was before i lowered it) so you have an idea.

i have the 17x10's in +17(or 15 cant quite remember), i reckon theyll fit nicely (mine stick a little bit outside the standard guard) i can add a photo later if you want a look

do you have a divided front pipe?

mine was exactly as you described, tried to fix the existing coils which didnt work. i then forked out on some new coils and it fixed it.

^^ as above, could have fouled the plugs???

I would start with the smaller stuff first (if you havent already). coilpacks fixed my missfiring at high rpm, but didnt fix my idle problem. try things like fuel filter, bad earths, vacuum leak, clean the aac valve, then adjust the iac valve etc. with me (may not be the same for you) my tps was shy of the 0.4V. i adjusted that then my idle was racing, so then i adjusted the iac valve, which stopped the timing going nuts. it is just about perfect (will be making minor adjustments this weekend to get perfect). if all this fails i would then go the coil pack route, as they are not cheap. it might be worth borrowing some from someone in your area just to make sure its the coils though. if you dont want to spend an arm and a leg on splitfires, theres a supplier over here which sells good coils. with your guys dollar being so strong at the moment it may work out super cheap. let me know??

i got mine through ecutalk here. good price and quick delivery, was at my door in nz within 4 days.

i had very similar issues, get a hold of a consult cable and see what the car is doing. check here for the thread i asked some questions on. hopefully it helps. my car is now running perfect.