R3N3

the actuator is the small can lookin item that sits next to the turbo (only on internal waste-gate turbos). the actuator is connected to the wastegate flap. if you discoonect the solenoid on your car and run it to the line directly to the waste gate (dont do this, just an eg.), your wastegate will open at 5psi. this is because your wastegate is only rated to 5psi, thus opening when there is 5psi boost. some cars running aftermarket internal wastegate turbos might have say a 18psi wastegate, which will open the wastegate at 18psi. a boost controller bleeds off pressure to the wastegate, effectively tricking the wastegate. this is why when you have a boost controller you can increase you boost pressure above the rating of the wastegate but you cant go below the rating of the actuator. hope i didnt confuse you

its located behind the seat, under the parcel tray just above the suspension, on the drivers side

yeah thats correct. also once you start doing mods ie. intercooler and exhaust, youll find the boost will increase by itself, because the turbo can flow more freely. while your running your car in stock form you may aswell do the high-boost mod, i did that to mine when i first got it, theres quite a difference that 2 psi makes! and if you get an electronic boost controller do not go above 12psi as your turbo will commit suicide (thats only the stock turbo). also keep reading on here if you want to learn, its a very good resource

i take it you own a r33?? your car has 2 boost settings, when your under 3000rpm (i cant remember the exact point) it runs at 5psi, when your past 3000rpm it then runs at 7 psi. there is a common and easy mod to earth your boost solenoid so you run high boost all the time.

check out this. i know its not local but its cheap

R33 from Hamilton

go fast bits are bringing out a new ebc soon looks like its a good piece of kit for a good price, click here

check out just jap here, youll be better off getting a 3" bellmouth then going back to the standard item. also a good ebc helps aswell, i am a big fan of the jaycar item its cheap and has some great reviews.

yep, gap them to .8mm and youll be all good

I think that these transmissions take a very specialised transmission fluid, which is extremely expensive. so that might be your first step. where abouts in nz are you? could you take it to a transmission place i.e marshal transmissions they might have had experience with them? failing that you might have to look at/import a half cut or a crash damaged car . i cant imagine those gearboxes been very expensive (2nd hand) compared to a 25det 5sp?

i had a similar issue, im in hamilton, NZ and we get thick as fog and the temps have gotten down to -4 deg a couple of times so far this winter. my car also has similar mods to you and my car has done around 82000ks. i recently changed my plugs to bcpr6es (i think) with .8mm gap. and it mostly got rid of the problem, so i suspect it could be a combination of plugs and coils (even though my coils look fine). so i am looking at getting some new coils soon. i run high boost all the time, and its around 9psi because of the mods. im suprised that your car still sits an 7psi at full noise, and my exhaust is the factory one with the mid muffler and cat removed.

yup those are series 2

youll find an ecu pinout diagram here i used pinout: 101 - injecter for cyl 1, and like kiwiRS4T said, make sure you just splice into this cable, DO NOT CUT IT 25 - boost control valve, and this is the opposite as above, do not splice, but cut the wire from the ecu 49 - +12v, splice into this cable 50 - ground, also splice into this cable make sure you double check these, just in case. i used all 4 from the ecu just so i could make the install a bit neater. have a look throught the thread that sydneykid started (the link that kiwiRS4T has in his post) it has all the info youll need and yes they are very good for the money, and some people say they are better than most big name brands!! if you havent baught the hand-controller yet, you will need to, as it doesnt work without it.

when you replace the plugs, gap them to .8mm (i kow this is right for the 33, not too sure bout the 34) and should help the missfiring. but clean all the crap out before you do the plugs, dont want anything falling into the holes for the spark plugs.

thats all good bro, i think i was mostly paranoid on the drive back after what happend

on my way home with 4 different tyres on and with "normal" air it felt a lot bumpier. im not saying that i know everything about anything, it felt like once the tyres warmed up the air had expanded quite a bit?? the shop i get my nitrogen from is just down the road, and they give it to me for free, so doesnt make any difference to me wether i go to the servo or them.

When i got the rims i was running the stock suspension, so there was no camber or toe (they did an alignment when i got the rims). i lowered my car about 3 weeks ago and strait afterwards took it to get an alignment again. the photo isnt that great, the wheels could still pass as brand new, i only drive my car on the weekends. the nitrogen is becoming quite popular quite a few people i know are running the nitrogen, i rekon theres quite a difference.

no, it has never been run underinflated, i constantly get the pressures checked from the place i baught them from and i only run nitrogen in them (for constant temps). was just at the shop this morning, and they are replacing all 4 tyres now free of charge, so if they were run underinflated i assume they wouldnt be replacing them? and when i baught them he did tell me that they were owned by continental tyres, so made me think they were worth a go.

i believe so, these are the tyres they put on the car when i bought my rims. the brand is gislaved, they are a sweedish tyre, and are apparently good lol. the place i bought them off are replacing all 4 tyres (with a different brand ).

i purchased some tyres about 6 months ago, and have done no more than 3000 ks on them. on my way to New Plymouth, going 100kph and on a corner, my right front tyre decided to do this: gave me and the girlfriend a bit of a fright, we were lucky no one was coming the opposite direction or we would have been toast. so when your buying tyres stick with ones that youve heard of!

yeah id start with the plug gap, its easy to do yourself, and will take under an hour. then work from there

check the spark plugs as well, my 25det was miss-firing a bit, i changed the plugs and re-gapped them to .8 and it was all good, only cost me $12. also, if you have a series 2, check the coil packs, they are prone to forming hairline cracks which the spark jumps from. if they are bung, try repairing them before buying new ones, theres some good threads on how to repair them on here.

if yor profec b isnt up to the job. you should look at the jaycar iebc. i know with a lot of IW turbos, thy hav a drop off in power at higher rpm. the jaycar item allows you to have two boost maps. those maps are fully tuneable allowing you to open/close the WG in small increments when you want. so you can close the WG slightly at the higher rpm to keep that power curve nice and steady. for eg. you can have a wet wether map set at say 10psi, you can tell it to start opening the wg fairly quikly, thus slowly building boost to stop that insane wheel spin in the wet. you can also have a hi map set to 18psi, keeping the WG shut as long as possible to bring the boost on as quik as possible, then slightly shut the WG at higher rpms to keep that curve steady. food for thought

i dont think you will get a huge gain, if any going from your 3" bellmouth to a hks item. you should spend the money on something else

ive heard of some people who had the split front pipe came accross over-boosting issues?? i wouldnt buy some of the stainless dump pipes off ebay, as they are quite thin and can crack easily. it sounds like you are using a r32 actuator, as they are 12psi (i think). if your running your stock turbo i would take that actuator off and put the old one back on (sell the 12psi one as i think they are quite saught after??), as putting the zorst on, it will up your boost around 2psi. so 14ish psi on stock turbo wont last long. i say just go for the just jap 3" mild steel bellmouth dump/front pipe. hope i helped http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1