Jump to content
SAU Community

R3N3

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    419

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by R3N3

  1. R3N3
    This is what I was thinking, although may be out of my depth wiring/programming wise… I will add the necessary wires into my loom (and not bin the relays just yet) and then give it a go. At least it’s pretty simple to go back to the factory method. here is a snip from the R33 wiring diagram: this was a screenshot from the iPhone, so quality may not be the best..
  2. R3N3
    So while planning the loom fix for the A/C relay, I thought why not just ditch the relay and power from PDM? It will definitely simplify things and free up an output on the haltech. my basic understanding of the A/C system (based on vehicle wiring diagrams): - A/C controller sends signal to ecu (pin 46) - ecu provides 12v out to engine bay (pin 9) - 12v from ecu goes via the pressure switch (canister near radiator)? - pressure switch then enables A/C and auxiliary fan relays, turning on compressor and fan when water temp gets hot? Based on this, just simply running an 8A output to compressor would seem to bypass pressure switch, witch doesn’t seem like a good idea? I’d need to wire the pressure switch with 12v and an AVI to create a rule to then switch compressor on?
  3. R3N3
    Yeah, to be fair I stole the idea from @Dose Pipe Sutututu . The mount is great, it even uses the ashtray spring clips to hold it in place. I’ll get him to update his website to include it (if he hasn’t already).
  4. R3N3
    I didn’t see that. I found a crowd in aus called RB factory that make R33 specific ones:
  5. R3N3
    So I thought I had the loom 100%, then I went to hook up the AC relay and can’t find the wire in the cabin side of the loom (it’s in the bay side). So I’ll have to pull the loom out and find the cable.. otherwise I’m pretty stoked with the wiring effort (first time I have ever done any proper electrical work) . All tested up ok with a multimeter. Rather than buying a CAN hub through Haltech, I just chopped up all the CAN cables, crimped and heat-shrunk them to daisy chain all the add-ons together, here’s hoping it works… I bought a new turbosmart race port BOV to be installed, which is required for the hypergear warranty.. The most important mod this week will be passenger and driver side fire extinguishers. These will be mounted under the seat, on the rails. I’m also still unhappy with the turbo water lines, so bought some more AN fittings (I’d hate to add up the costs of AN fittings). car should be going to the fabricator in the next week for the folllowing: - full exhaust - I will be going for a twin tip exhaust rather than a big cannon, as i like the more stock(ish) look - all new 2.5” SS (I heard SS is better for heat soak?) intercooler piping, unsure if I will go silicon clamps or the plazmaman style clamps. If I go plazmaman I may have a delay as I’ll need to get the right TB adapter. I think the greddy intercooler will be fine for what I need - new 3” SS turbo intake. - a couple of minor cosmetic tweaks to the cam covers and coil cover (I run 20det covers, so want to remove the slight dip under where the TB used to sit and remove all mounts for the igniter etc on the coil cover). Should make it look nice and clean
  6. R3N3
    No worries, how did you choose to adapt dbw?
  7. R3N3
    So rather than re-use all the old water and oil lines for the turbo, I thought I’d replace them all while I was there. I have since learnt that I hate making AN lines.. I purchased an Aeroflow RB turbo line kit (water and oil), on the assumption it would just be exactly what I needed.. and of course everything needed to be modified, as it was all way too long. I have a braided oil return line kit yet to go on also. While I was away in Sydney this week, a couple of my goodies turned up: - turbo dump pipe this was part of the hypergear turbo kit and bolts up to factory style front pipes. - keypad mount the keypad mount uses the clips for the ash tray, so it just slides in and clips into place, with no cutting etc. IEE.nz made this and it turned out top notch. If you want one, contact him via his website. other than that I have purchased a nice new Aeroflow pod filter and 3” stainless bend for the sututus..
  8. R3N3
    The new turbo and wastegate have arrived today (thanks @hyper-gear). Still waiting for the dump pipe. I will attempt to connect all lines and drains on the weekend if I get some spare time. Note that the ATP catch can bracket had to be bent to get the wastegate to fit, nothing major. starting to look more like a finished engine bay…. I have booked in with the fabricator early December for a full new exhaust, intercooler pipe work and turbo intake, so prior to that I have bought a cheap chinese front pipe to make the existing exhaust work. And I will use an assortment of silicon joiners and existing intercooler pipe to make it work for first startup... looks nice and stock-ish..
  9. R3N3
    Another minor update.. I have been pondering placement of the PD16 for some time.. I wanted somewhere that is not visible and does not involve cutting etc.. I had thought about the glove box, but I actually use that for junk and didn’t seem appropriate for high current electronics.. I was also thinking in the dash, mounted in or beneath the stereo brackets, but the haltech pre-terminated harness length wasn’t really suitable. I settled for behind the left hand passenger vent, which is perfect size, relatively close to the ecu and is well hidden. I also recycled an old factory ecu bracket to mount the wire and controller under the hvac. Just tossing up now if I buy a CAN hub or just make one by crimping cables together.. bugger all work has been done in the engine bay, other than painting heat shield silver to better match the cold side. Just waiting for the turbo to get it finished.. I’m in Sydney for work not this week but next, so knowing my luck, the turbo will turn up when I’m gone, so will have to wait a little longer to get it in..
  10. R3N3
    Got the fuel pump and FPG top hat installed. I used the stock hanger to mount the pump on with some stainless hose clamps. The FPG hat is a really nice bit of gear, although a bit pricey.. pretty overkill for what my needs are but I just didn’t want to muck around trying to modify the stock plastic hat to suit the larger current draw of the pump. My only negative of the FPG hat is the stock cover doesn’t fit over the top now. I also installed a new exhaust manifold gasket, all ready for the new turbo, which is hopefully a week or 2 away.
  11. R3N3
    ECU mount from IEE arrived: which mounts the ecu nicely in the factory location. The FPG fuel hat and Walbro 450 has also arrived: The fuel pump is powered from the PDM, so no more relay mods to get full voltage, makes wiring so much simpler! Just a couple more wires to terminate in the cabin, then the wiring will be completed, so maybe this weekend I might even get to power up the ECU and PDM to start getting it all programmed (or at least attempt too..)
  12. R3N3
    Ah, sorry I am using one of their terminated harnesses. I checked continuity with multimeter back to the ECU pins to confirm they are connected
  13. R3N3
    I’m interested in this also.. just FYI, these are my wiring notes: Elite 2500 wiring: pin B1 = trigger + (black wire on sensor) pin B5 = trigger - (white wire on sensor) I also checked this with Scott from Haltech.. is this how you have it?
  14. R3N3
    Awesome, thanks! Just as well as I got the PD16 as I have run out of AVI’s on the 2500…
  15. R3N3
    A little more progress: - Mako Motorsport dash installed and IC7 mounted I read online about issues with the quality of their products (after I purchased it…), but I’m happy to report the quality of mine was great! - I have ordered a FPG billet fuel top hat. I could have made the stock one work but I didn’t want to risk melted plugs etc. - I have also ordered a @hyper-gear ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo with the plumb back dump and dump pipe combo. I’m looking forward to getting this! - I have ordered a IEE.nz (check them out) ecu mount for the stock location and they are printing me a Haltech keypad holder like @Dose Pipe Sutututu for the old ash tray. They are also going to print me a better cup holder for the centre console that can hold a coffee cup nicely when hitting boost.. - I bought and installed a brand new OEM shifter surround. I have always had a series 1 surround, which has a more of a gloss finish as opposed to the series 2 matte finish. So now the interior feels completed - I have also been working on all the factory power cables and grounds, with all new 0 gauge cables (overkill I know) being installed for engine grounds, power cables for the starter and alternator. The only one I haven’t replaced is the power cable from the fuse box to the battery in the boot (looks like a pain in the ass to do??). - Once the turbo is on I’ll get the cooling system filled up with demineralised water and new penrite 10tenths 10w40 oil, ready for the first start. Maybe I’ll get a fire extinguisher or two first… - all that’s left then will be mounting the ECU, minor wiring and hoping like he’ll it all works with out catching fire… Question: One wiring question I have is in regards to the AC, I noticed that the factory ECU is connected to the AC somehow and I want to ensure it’s functional with the Haltech. Does the factory ecu turn on the AC or was it only used as an input to up idle on IACV?
  16. R3N3
    I will get the measurements when I am next to the car later.
  17. R3N3
    Nice build. I nearly purchased the OG throttle adaptor myself. what clamps are those on the top rad hose?
  18. R3N3
    So things have been a little slow with the arrival of our twin girls 3 weeks ago… in between feeds/nappy changes/sleep I have been slowly chipping away at the car. The engine harness is now complete and I have checked it all with a multimeter. I have tried to hide the harness as much as possible, with everything all mounted under the plenum. last bits of wiring to do is the trigger sensor and inputs needed for cruise control. I now have the ECU, IC-7, PDM, keypad and associated goodies ready to go in the car also. I’m still a way off getting the car started, as I have also purchased (or about to purchase) other goodies: - makomotosports dash mount - walbro 460 pump and FPG billet top hat - Spal pusher fan (to replace aircon fan) - Hypergear SS2 turbo - wireless CarPlay head unit im really interested in replacing the old A/C condenser, but they are stupid money now.. I see FPG have complete A/C upgrade kits with new compressors and everything for only a little more than what people are asking for a new oem condenser.. @Dose Pipe Sutututudidnt you replace your condenser at some point?
  19. R3N3
    Thanks, what size exhaust housing?
  20. R3N3
    Hi Tao, love the work with the turbos. I’ve always been keen to get one of your turbos on my car! im currently building my 33 (unopened RB25) and I’m after a really nice responsive turbo for around the 280-300(ish)kw range. I have been keeping an eye on the ATR43G3SAT but I know you are constantly developing your products, so keen to get your thoughts? i would also look to purchase with the externally gated plumb back kit you have recently released also. Cheers @hypergear
  21. R3N3
    Yeah, the dbw was the easiest way to simplify the cold side. No AAC/IACV and associated plumbing. The other key benefits of dbw for me is the throttle blipping and cruise control!
  22. R3N3
    Starting to make a bit more progress: - Waterlines are plumbed back up and have retained the oil heater. - DBW flange welded up to the Greddy manifold. I have been working on the wiring the past few nights to get the Haltech loom modified and tidying up some of the factory wiring routing. everything is just dummy fitted for now until i get everything 100% and test all the wiring.
  23. R3N3
    Been eating away at the wiring harness over the weekend. I started with the Rb25det pre-terminated harness but then made some modifications to allow additional sensors and DBW. I have also cleaned up a lot of the factory wiring, as a lot of the sensors link up to the other side of the car for the dash cluster. I will be going IC-7 so no need for the additional cables. I’m aiming to tuck the harness under the manifold, so it will keep it nice and clean. FPR is mounted, luckily the mount bolts line up perfectly to the bolts for the old fuel pulse damper and the return lines up directly with the stock hard lines. I have purchased all the required dash fittings, dam those things are expensive… The Greddy manifold is off getting a new throttle body flange welded up for the DBW, so should have that back this week. I’m hoping to get the majority of the cold side sorted next weekend, as we have twins arriving the following Monday, so may be a bit slower from then….
  24. R3N3
    Today I also ordered the Haltech terminated wiring harness, PDM wiring harness and sensors. I will be going the 2500 elite + PD-16 now to learn how to wire..
  25. R3N3
    Thanks. The only fittings I could really find (either imperial or metric) were for home irrigation and made from PE. I tracked down a Proflow fitting for an XR6 that goes from 3/4 to either a 3/8 or 5/8. I will just make this work.. I also found that Taarks make bosch knock sensor adaptors for an rb25, which is great, as finding a 1/4bsp to m8 was also impossible locally..
×
×
  • Create New...